Olympus OM10 - a good option?

wibbly

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Its been a long time since I last shot film, but a chance conversation has whetted my appetite to supplement my digital with a little bit of film.

I was thinking maybe the Olympus OM10 as a starter, cheap as chips apparently, but wondered if it's a good starter SLR?

In truth I'd probably only marry it up to a 35mm lens so I doubt I'll be looking at anything greatly adventurous. I'm interested to know opinions as to suitability really. I may even try and get my young daughter on board with it too, and see if I can get the photography magic to rub off on her a little.
 
Although perfectly useable the OM10 can be a little restrictive due to it not having shutter speed control, even with the adapter its position leaves a lot to be desired. If you're set on an Olympus I'd be more inclined to go for an OM1 or 2.
 
Well it's not my favourite camera esp when you have to have a silly adapter for manual speeds and think the OM20 would be better.......anyway the guys here know what camera I would advise to get, but you wouldn't like it :D :exit:
 
The OM 10 was a mass produced camera compared to the OM 1 and 2. As such they did have the odd quality issue typical of fast production lines and more cost effective materials. However if you find one still working well, maybe that has proven it's a good one.
 
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Thanks guys. Budget wise would probably preclude the OM1/2 as they seem to go for a lot more than the 10. Interestingly the OM20 looks a reasonable buy so maybe I should consider that more than the 10.

Maybe if the film bug really bites the OM1 would be a reasonable upgrade.
 
The OM 10 was a mass produced camera compared to the OM 1 and 2. As such they did have the odd quality issue typical of fast production lines and more cost effective materials. However if you find one still working well, maybe that has proven it's a good one.

Well what I've read on the net about some models being less reliable and others with battery drain problems, it would seem only two models would pass as a cheaper\safer buy and that would be the OM1 and OM2n. Although I've had two OM10s that worked Ok, but my OM20 only worked on semi auto and the manual speeds didn't work.
 
The 30 is worth a look too, it has a bad rap due to the very early auto focus and being a bit heavy on batteries but they can go for less than the 20.

Odds of getting the ludicrous af lens for it are negligible however it has fairly accurate focus confirmation lamps in the vf. Apart from that it's identical to the 20.
 
dum de dum.... :D I know something.... :banana:

Haha

Well, just to follow up I couldn't resist a ridiculously priced OM20 last night on evil bay, so looking forward to getting hold of.

Now then where's the stupid questions thread for me to get stuck into :D
 
Well I used the OM2 yesterday and reminded me of something else that annoys me with the OM range and I would like the off switch to be off and maybe you will guessed why ..........................typical joe public user error when l I took some shots with the switch at off, and I can't remember if it still meters correctly on auto or defaults to one speed at this off setting.
 
The meter comes on for a fraction of a second, plenty long enough to take a reading though.
 
Well it's not my favourite camera esp when you have to have a silly adapter for manual speeds and think the OM20 would be better.......anyway the guys here know what camera I would advise to get, but you wouldn't like it :D :exit:
:agree:.....I still have an OM20 it is a very superior camera to the OM10..The build quality is superb. Go for it!
 
The meter comes on for a fraction of a second, plenty long enough to take a reading though.

Well on my OM2 the meter doesn't show on "off" but the camera will still fire and when set to auto you get a nice display of shutter speeds but on manual you have a stupid "adjust exposure till needle is in the middle of some arrows....very bad design for a camera that is supposed to be for advanced amateurs....so all my annoyances add up to why OM range are not my favourite cameras...gimme a T70 any day :exit:
 
Well on my OM2 the meter doesn't show on "off" but the camera will still fire and when set to auto you get a nice display of shutter speeds but on manual you have a stupid "adjust exposure till needle is in the middle of some arrows....very bad design for a camera that is supposed to be for advanced amateurs....so all my annoyances add up to why OM range are not my favourite cameras...gimme a T70 any day :exit:

I think I prefer this tbh. The arrows let you know how far out you are from ideal with out prescribing a shutter speed. If you're just going to manually set the shutter speed to the indicated reading you might as well just leave it on automatic.
 
Well on my OM2 the meter doesn't show on "off" but the camera will still fire and when set to auto you get a nice display of shutter speeds but on manual you have a stupid "adjust exposure till needle is in the middle of some arrows....very bad design for a camera that is supposed to be for advanced amateurs....so all my annoyances add up to why OM range are not my favourite cameras...gimme a T70 any day :exit:

I'm not sure how else the Manual setting is supposed to show the metering Bryan? There's no point in it displaying the shutter speed like in Auto because you've manually selected that on the ring around the lens mount so it shows you a standard over/under exposure meter. I'd assume that even amateurs can figure out an arrow that points up or down ;0)
 
I think I prefer this tbh. The arrows let you know how far out you are from ideal with out prescribing a shutter speed. If you're just going to manually set the shutter speed to the indicated reading you might as well just leave it on automatic.

Well what I can't remember as I've made the same mistake many times over the years is:- I already knew what f stop and shutter speed I was going to use and preset the camera.....and when about 10 mins later in using the camera forgot to switch it to manual, so what will I get? So as mentioned wished the camera wouldn't fire when switched off.
 
I think I prefer this tbh. The arrows let you know how far out you are from ideal with out prescribing a shutter speed. If you're just going to manually set the shutter speed to the indicated reading you might as well just leave it on automatic.

I'm not sure how else the Manual setting is supposed to show the metering Bryan? There's no point in it displaying the shutter speed like in Auto because you've manually selected that on the ring around the lens mount so it shows you a standard over/under exposure meter. I'd assume that even amateurs can figure out an arrow that points up or down ;0)

One of the differences between the Leitz Minolta CL and the Bessa R3A is how the exposure is displayed. The CL uses the needle approach, and the Bessa shows the speed selected, plus the recommended speed flashing. In general I think the analogue needle works better than the digital display, as Steven says it gives a better idea how "far out" you are, compared to seeing a red 250 and a flashing 1000 (IMHO).

The really annoying part with the CL however (apart from having to wind on and hold the camera in landscape to get the meter-on-a-stick to work) is that the needle is above the middle for under-exposure and below for over-exposure. :thinking: Whoever designed that bit should have a special part of camera hell reserved for them.

(Sorry, I know this thread is about Olys, I'll go back to sleep!)
 
I'm not sure how else the Manual setting is supposed to show the metering Bryan? There's no point in it displaying the shutter speed like in Auto because you've manually selected that on the ring around the lens mount so it shows you a standard over/under exposure meter. I'd assume that even amateurs can figure out an arrow that points up or down ;0)

Well maybe I'm comparing the OMs to the next generation of metered cameras...but know the cheap T70 must be measuring in half stops because I sometimes get a reading e.g.f4.5 or f6.7 etc at a set shutter speed, anyway the Minolta X-700 gives aperture and shutter speed in the viewfinder on manual.......also have mentioned other cameras e.g. Ricoh KR-10 super that have annoyed me as they work like the OMs where on manual you get the range of shutter speeds but to get the correct f stop have to adjust till the two arrows top and bottom (over under exposure) stop flashing.....and must drive many joe public photographers( including me) crazy and they just set the camera to Auto.
So in a nutshell for me, I just want to use a camera on manual to show the correct f stop or shutter speed (or both) for any subject even if using extension tubes and not fart around moving a needle up and down between arrows....and there are cameras that can do this and think OMs are pathetic compared to Nikons and Canons and should have stayed with the OM1, but as said realise maybe I'm not being fair comparing to more modern cameras, but then more modern cameras are just as cheap now so there are no excuses for not buying one.
 
lol, not a fan then? ;0)

The OM2 doesn't show any apertures in the viewfinder because it instead relies on the ring on the lens itself which you, as the photographer, make the decision on by turning it until it clicks.

On the whole, I shoot aperture priority on both film and digital and find the OM bodies in general work very well for this. In auto you get a readout in the viewfinder of the shutter speed automatically selected according to the aperture you've chosen so you don't try shooting at excessively slow speeds without realising. You can adjust the exposure compensation dial on the top if you want to deliberately over/underexposed.

If you want more control, switch to manual and you can then change the shutter speed yourself according to the aperture you want or, set your shutter speed to what you want and then adjust the aperture instead if you want to control the shutter but aren't too bothered about the aperture.

The basic needle in the viewfinder is as simple as it gets for metering but my one annoyance is that it's not illuminated which means judging it in low light is more of a challenge!
 
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To add, you're right that more modern cameras are available for peanuts so you can shoot all day pretty much like any other digital slr but that's exactly why I've had two Canon EOS 30's and sold them on again. Simple to use, nice to handle but lifeless. I'd much rather have to put a little bit more effort into my film photography otherwise I may as just shoot digital.

With regards to the T70, I think you already know everyone's thoughts on the camera with a face only a mother could love ;0)
 
Well what I can't remember as I've made the same mistake many times over the years is:- I already knew what f stop and shutter speed I was going to use and preset the camera.....and when about 10 mins later in using the camera forgot to switch it to manual, so what will I get? So as mentioned wished the camera wouldn't fire when switched off.

Why, you'll likely get a correctly exposed shot, unlike if you left it on manual took the shot just as the light changed. If your just transcribing the settings from the internal meter then why bother?



Well maybe I'm comparing the OMs to the next generation of metered cameras...but know the cheap T70 must be measuring in half stops because I sometimes get a reading e.g.f4.5 or f6.7 etc at a set shutter speed, anyway the Minolta X-700 gives aperture and shutter speed in the viewfinder on manual.......also have mentioned other cameras e.g. Ricoh KR-10 super that have annoyed me as they work like the OMs where on manual you get the range of shutter speeds but to get the correct f stop have to adjust till the two arrows top and bottom (over under exposure) stop flashing.....and must drive many joe public photographers( including me) crazy and they just set the camera to Auto.
So in a nutshell for me, I just want to use a camera on manual to show the correct f stop or shutter speed (or both) for any subject even if using extension tubes and not fart around moving a needle up and down between arrows....and there are cameras that can do this and think OMs are pathetic compared to Nikons and Canons and should have stayed with the OM1, but as said realise maybe I'm not being fair comparing to more modern cameras, but then more modern cameras are just as cheap now so there are no excuses for not buying one.

Apples and oranges aside. The meter on the OM is fantastic, I've never needed to over ride it in normal conditions and tbh I've never needs 1/3 or 1/2 stops even with slide film. In auto it will expose for the correct amount of time up to a couple of minutes. Its a good camera for taking photographs not messing on with settings, its been designed to minimise the chances of missing a shot if you raise it to your eye to take shot and realise its off. Again why are you taking a reading from the internal meter then setting those to the camera? These cameras have been designed so you don't need to, if you want full manual shoot a full manual camera and accept you'll miss some shots.
 
To add, you're right that more modern cameras are available for peanuts so you can shoot all day pretty much like any other digital slr but that's exactly why I've had two Canon EOS 30's and sold them on again. Simple to use, nice to handle but lifeless. I'd much rather have to put a little bit more effort into my film photography otherwise I may as just shoot digital.

With regards to the T70, I think you already know everyone's thoughts on the camera with a face only a mother could love ;0)

Well I under use my T90 and use it on manual most times so any camera you can use the traditional olde worlde way ;) but have used the OM10, OM20 and Om2 and have never complained about the results (except for my moan a few years ago about the bad design of the OM10 that ruined my shots) and the lenses are among the best...but there are better cameras IMO to use..and I do.
 
Why, you'll likely get a correctly exposed shot, unlike if you left it on manual took the shot just as the light changed. If your just transcribing the settings from the internal meter then why bother?

Apples and oranges aside. The meter on the OM is fantastic, I've never needed to over ride it in normal conditions and tbh I've never needs 1/3 or 1/2 stops even with slide film. In auto it will expose for the correct amount of time up to a couple of minutes. Its a good camera for taking photographs not messing on with settings, its been designed to minimise the chances of missing a shot if you raise it to your eye to take shot and realise its off. Again why are you taking a reading from the internal meter then setting those to the camera? These cameras have been designed so you don't need to, if you want full manual shoot a full manual camera and accept you'll miss some shots.

Well the meter is only as good as the operator who knows how to use it and we all know the meter can be fooled....anyway I set my camera to equivalent of the grey card (same as sunny 16) as my shots were going to be of my son and grandchildren in a white open top quite large car and as the car was the main subject it would have fooled the meter.
 
Well the meter is only as good as the operator who knows how to use it and we all know the meter can be fooled....anyway I set my camera to equivalent of the grey card (same as sunny 16) as my shots were going to be of my son and grandchildren in a white open top quite large car and as the car was the main subject it would have fooled the meter.


I'm still confused. I understand why you'd over ride the camera in this situation, did you point the camera at the grey card and adjust? I guess I can see why the camera indicating the correct shutter would be quicker though not massively than just quickly adjusting until the meter read neutral. After that I'd have just left it on manual, the meter goes on to stand by after a few minutes what ever mode it's in and you wouldn't have had that issue. This is probably a good case study for picking a single camera and learning it before flitting on to another.
 
I'm still confused. I understand why you'd over ride the camera in this situation, did you point the camera at the grey card and adjust? I guess I can see why the camera indicating the correct shutter would be quicker though not massively than just quickly adjusting until the meter read neutral. After that I'd have just left it on manual, the meter goes on to stand by after a few minutes what ever mode it's in and you wouldn't have had that issue. This is probably a good case study for picking a single camera and learning it before flitting on to another.

Well depending on the subject and for quick metering:- I meter for green grass, shrubs, blue sky or my grey patio or pavement and many other subjects that are roughly the same as a grey card and as I only use colour neg film it's good enough. And indeed agree what you say about know your camera and lenses as cameras weren't made to Nasa standards (for the moon) and considering it wont get better with age,will show in slide film if all the tolerances are against you.
 
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duplication please delete
 
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) we still like
With regards to the T70, I think you already know everyone's thoughts on the camera with a face only a mother could love ;0)

But but but....it's Brians Baby :hug:

:puke: :D:D

Never mind Brian (@excalibur) we still like you.......we just need to work on our conversion techniques, :bat:
 
) we still like

Never mind Brian (@excalibur) we still like you.......we just need to work on our conversion techniques, :bat:

:D as a peace offering to OM owners.....I'll use the OMs and am using my only one left now, which is a OM2 and have a nice ViV 24mm f2 to go with it that gives glowy effects wide open for the right subjects....it's just not my favourite camera to use esp when comparing a T90 flash gun to what Olympus can offer.
 
Ah yes, Canon finally got TTL flash 11 years after the OM-2 had it. :whistle:
 
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Ah yes, Canon finally got TTL flash 11 years after the OM-2 had it. :whistle:

Well it is not about the past but the cheap film gear you can get now and I was comparing the flashgun the Canon 300tl below (and probably Nikon has an equivalent) and surely you would agree is better than the Olympus T20....all can be used now even by newbie and at cheap prices.:rolleyes:
Anyway Olympus probably copy the Topcon TTL camera made in 1963
canon-speedlite-300tl-ttl-auto-bounce-flash-for-t90-and-most-eos-film-slrs-[3]-1251-p.jpg
 
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Well it is not about the past but the cheap film gear you can get now and I was comparing the flashgun the Canon 300tl below (and probably Nikon has an equivalent) and surely you would agree is better than the Olympus T20....all can be used now even by newbie and at cheap prices.

Wow you're right Brian, that is such an obvious interface even a flash newbie like me could... ermmm, no me couldn't! :)
 
Wow you're right Brian, that is such an obvious interface even a flash newbie like me could... ermmm, no me couldn't! :)

Well Chris I've had mine for about 4 years and forget what it can do :rolleyes: and as I only use the T90 on special occasions (forget what that can do also :rolleyes:) anyway it must do something fancy as it has 5 connecting pins probably mainly for program on the T90 for newbies although it can basically work on the T70.
 
Anyway Olympus probably copy the Topcon TTL camera made in 1963
They didn't actually. They developed their own, innovative, off the film metering that worked during the exposure. Which enabled it to be used for flash as well.
 
They didn't actually. They developed their own, innovative, off the film metering that worked during the exposure. Which enabled it to be used for flash as well.

Well if you get into the debate about who invented what you go way back into the past and reckon the guy who invented how to produce fire, with flint, probably started it all off ;)
 
I'm not going back at all. I have and OM 2 and a pair of QA310s and I'm just pleased it was available back in the late 70s.
 
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OM20 has turned up today.

I'd forgotten just how tactile a film camera is, feels beautiful in hand with the 50mm lens on it and with a wet wipe or two looks a lot less grubby than it did 20 minutes ago :)

The aluminium isn't too bad, a few marks on it, and a couple of minor dents on two corners, but generally looks pretty well looked after.

All seems to be in working order, apart from the sensor looking a bit dirty.... Will pop a couple of Poundland films through and see how they look before I decide what to do about that.

I think a new love may just be starting :D

 
OM20 has turned up today.

I'd forgotten just how tactile a film camera is, feels beautiful in hand with the 50mm lens on it and with a wet wipe or two looks a lot less grubby than it did 20 minutes ago :)

The aluminium isn't too bad, a few marks on it, and a couple of minor dents on two corners, but generally looks pretty well looked after.

All seems to be in working order, apart from the sensor looking a bit dirty.... Will pop a couple of Poundland films through and see how they look before I decide what to do about that.

I think a new love may just be starting :D


Well done and the lens will give very good results as it is up among the best..although Zuiko lenses are very good I've got some VG results from other makes e.g. Vivitar, Tokina etc for say 28mm that you can pick up a lot cheaper than Zuiko esp from bootsales. A quite good handy zoom is the Zuiko 75-150mm and could have bought one for £5 at the bootie last week but I have already have that one also have Zuiko 35-70mm....but best to use primes as many film zooms are not as good as DSLr zooms.
 
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It's quiet often that older camera like that have a dirty sensor. Just get it cleaned at the local dealer!

I have an OM1, and it's my most used film camera. The lens are not especially cheap but there is a huge line up of them to choose from!
 
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