Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

davekiddle said:
Hi all, I'm a new OM system user and currently trying the OM Workspace software.

I've downloaded the AI noise reduction thing, but how do I actually use it in the OM Workspace program?
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Aha.....Found it. Blimey, it's slow....!

What noise reduction program do you recommend? I normally use Lightroom. Are any others noticably better?
 
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If I recall correctly, to use the AI Noise reduction, you need to have a supported NVidia graphics card installed on your computer.
 
davekiddle said:
Aha.....Found it. Blimey, it's slow....!

What noise reduction program do you recommend? I normally use Lightroom. Are any others noticably better?
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DxO PureRaw works well enough for me, i'm still on version 2 and its on v3 now.
Give the trial version a try and see what you reckon.
 
I have just posted in the general section, but think it may have been more appropriate to pose the question here, I am lucky enough to be doing a norweigan fjord cruise, and I am in a quandary as to what lenses to take. I have the Olympus em1 mkiii nd the 12-40 pro and the 40-150 f4 pro, I now have the opportunity of acquiring the 7-14 f2 pro, but am wondering if this is overkill? Would the 12-40 be good enough for the wide vistas or would the 7-14 really come into its own? Any other lens suggestions welcomes, oh and I will need to get a bigger bag if I acquire another lens!
 
Olly B said:
Would the 12-40 be good enough for the wide vistas or would the 7-14 really come into its own?
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I use the 12-40 most of the time. For landscape I find stitching together multiple images in Lightroom covers the scene when it won't fit into one shot.
I don't bother doing much more than keeping an eye on the EVF level indicators and ensuring a good overlap in shots - I seldom fix focus and exposure as Lightroom seems to be OK with small variations.
Of course if there's a lot of movement in the scene then you need to capture it all in one shot.

The Olympus 9mm bodycap fisheye is a useful, tiny and incredibly cheap way of going wider - it's more or less a toy lens but if the light is OK it produces reasonable results.
 
Olly B said:
I have just posted in the general section, but think it may have been more appropriate to pose the question here, I am lucky enough to be doing a norweigan fjord cruise, and I am in a quandary as to what lenses to take. I have the Olympus em1 mkiii nd the 12-40 pro and the 40-150 f4 pro, I now have the opportunity of acquiring the 7-14 f2 pro, but am wondering if this is overkill? Would the 12-40 be good enough for the wide vistas or would the 7-14 really come into its own? Any other lens suggestions welcomes, oh and I will need to get a bigger bag if I acquire another lens!
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Why not a small manual prime? I swear by the Laowa 7.5mm. At such a wide angle manual focussing is not a problem, and it has the electronic contacts to give full exif information and control aperture.
 
Sootchucker said:
If I recall correctly, to use the AI Noise reduction, you need to have a supported NVidia graphics card installed on your computer.
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The option is greyed out for me if I remember rightly, because I don’t have one.

edit: @davekiddle I thought there has just been a huge step up in the noise reduction in Lightroom? Worth trying?
 
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Bebop said:
The option is greyed out for me if I remember rightly, because I don’t have one.

edit: @davekiddle I thought there has just been a huge step up in the noise reduction in Lightroom? Worth trying?
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Just a note that I tried Lightroom AI NR on one image and although it gave a good result it took forever. Estimated in advance at 10 minutes. I may stick with DXO Photolab for now in most cases.
 
Many thanks for the suggestions re a wide angle lens for my forthcoming trip to Norway, I have decided to go with the 8 - 25 f4 pro which will complement the 12-40 and 40-150, looking at the reviews it seems a good lens other than doing astrophotography which wasn’t on my list of things to do, so hopefully it will prove To be a good buy!
 
Can anyone tell me any differences between the Olympus 12-40 f2.8 and the mk2 version. I have looked at various websites and nothing is really clear.

Thanks
Pete
 
seaodyssey said:
Can anyone tell me any differences between the Olympus 12-40 f2.8 and the mk2 version. I have looked at various websites and nothing is really clear.

Thanks
Pete
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I’m not certain, but I think the Mk2 has a flourine coating on the front element to displace water and dirt.
 
seaodyssey said:
Can anyone tell me any differences between the Olympus 12-40 f2.8 and the mk2 version. I have looked at various websites and nothing is really clear.

Thanks
Pete
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It's largely a branding exercise to make it OM System rather than Olympus. They're identical optically.
 
Olly B said:
I have just posted in the general section, but think it may have been more appropriate to pose the question here, I am lucky enough to be doing a norweigan fjord cruise, and I am in a quandary as to what lenses to take. I have the Olympus em1 mkiii nd the 12-40 pro and the 40-150 f4 pro, I now have the opportunity of acquiring the 7-14 f2 pro, but am wondering if this is overkill? Would the 12-40 be good enough for the wide vistas or would the 7-14 really come into its own? Any other lens suggestions welcomes, oh and I will need to get a bigger bag if I acquire another lens!
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When we did our fjords cruise ten years ago I used a 16-85mm (24-127mm equivalent) lens exclusively on land with 10% of the total shots taken with a 70-300 (105-450mm equivalent) from the ship. Looking at the results, only 23 out of 300 shots were at 16mm but twice as many were taken at 85mm so, for me, 12mm would be wide enough and the 150mm would probably be long enough.
 
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jerry12953 said:
Just a note that I tried Lightroom AI NR on one image and although it gave a good result it took forever. Estimated in advance at 10 minutes. I may stick with DXO Photolab for now in most cases.
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That's interesting. I'm afraid Photolab is also terribly slow for me, but my laptop is at the brink of being capable these days. I can no longer update the OS, but I'm still dreading it dying on me.
 
Bebop said:
That's interesting. I'm afraid Photolab is also terribly slow for me, but my laptop is at the brink of being capable these days. I can no longer update the OS, but I'm still dreading it dying on me.
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I used to use DXO PureRaw, not only for noise reduction but also image definition. However, I find with my OM5 the definition is much improved so I use, when necessary, the AI noise reduction facility within LR Desktop. It takes about 15 seconds on average, on a 2017 iMac i7. It seems on a par with PureRaw for noise reduction. The OM5 certainly produces better-defined images than the E-M5iii despite it being the same sensor. I think it’s down to an improved processor.
 
Stephen L said:
I used to use DXO PureRaw, not only for noise reduction but also image definition. However, I find with my OM5 the definition is much improved so I use, when necessary, the AI noise reduction facility within LR Desktop. It takes about 15 seconds on average, on a 2017 iMac i7. It seems on a par with PureRaw for noise reduction. The OM5 certainly produces better-defined images than the E-M5iii despite it being the same sensor. I think it’s down to an improved processor.
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That's good to hear that it is a step up - reassuring to know that there are things that can still be done to improve the image quality. I did wonder if that was just a brand change exercise. It seems not then (y)
 
Bebop said:
That's good to hear that it is a step up - reassuring to know that there are things that can still be done to improve the image quality. I did wonder if that was just a brand change exercise. It seems not then (y)
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There is a noticeable change in image quality (but I'm not saying it equals the OM1!), and I believe that the issue of a weak tripod mount has also been addressed. I can also confirm that it is immune to a typical Yorkshire rain storm. I did buy the BCG5 grip, but I'm on the fence about that. Sometimes I like it, sometimes I don't.
 
Bebop said:
That's interesting. I'm afraid Photolab is also terribly slow for me, but my laptop is at the brink of being capable these days. I can no longer update the OS, but I'm still dreading it dying on me.
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Stephen L said:
I used to use DXO PureRaw, not only for noise reduction but also image definition. However, I find with my OM5 the definition is much improved so I use, when necessary, the AI noise reduction facility within LR Desktop. It takes about 15 seconds on average, on a 2017 iMac i7. It seems on a par with PureRaw for noise reduction. The OM5 certainly produces better-defined images than the E-M5iii despite it being the same sensor. I think it’s down to an improved processor.
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I wonder if there's something wrong with my set-up then. Ten minutes seems a terribly long time on a reasonably decent PC.
 
jerry12953 said:
I wonder if there's something wrong with my set-up then. Ten minutes seems a terribly long time on a reasonably decent PC.
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What graphics card is in your PC? These AI noise-reduction applications are very GPU-reliant and one member here reported processing time going from 15 minutes to 15 seconds per frame when he upgraded his GPU.
 
jerry12953 said:
It doesn't seem to have aproblem with Denoising with Topaz or DXO....... Anyway, time for some experiments I think.
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For reference and possibly/maybe helpful.

I have a now fairly unsuitable older intel based MacBook Pro with integrated graphics and only 8GB ram.

Photolab takes around 3-4 minutes to process a single 24mb approx (from my GX9) Raw file using DeepPrime (not XD as I only have PL5) and also took roughly the same time to do the 50mb XT-4 files.

LR takes pretty much 4 minutes at all times for either camera Raw file.

I’d maybe start with looking at settings in LR or possibly a graphics driver issue(?).

Ultimately though I’m finding them to be pretty comparable in terms of time taken.
 
Barn Owl from this evening. ISO 4000. The subject detection on the OM1 does feel like cheating.

20230604-O6040372_1.jpg

And another - I think my white balance has gone a bit awry. I've corrected for a green tint in the one above, but not below, although they weren't taken in the same flyby.

20230604-O6040417_1_1.jpg
 
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Is it just me or have we lost a load of posts between Monday and today?
 
Hi all, question about flash and macro photography - is the Meike 320 flash quick enough to recharge to use with in camera focus stacking? I appreciate it will depend on the power setting but lets say when used in normal bright daylight conditions and with a 60mm macro lens at close subject distance.
 
Lovely 5 days down in Swanage, Dorset. (Was meant to be a week but that's a long story).

Thought I'd give the EM1 MK2 a try out with my favourite type of image, long exposure seascapes to see what it could do.

I'm not dissapointed.

12-40mm f2.8 PRO @35mm f5.6

7 minute exposure edited in LR Classic and used LR DeNoise AI to remove the noise and hot pixels.


[url=https://flic.kr/p/2oGewah]Time and Tide by Terence Rees, on Flickr[/URL]
 
davekiddle said:
Hi all, question about flash and macro photography - is the Meike 320 flash quick enough to recharge to use with in camera focus stacking? I appreciate it will depend on the power setting but lets say when used in normal bright daylight conditions and with a 60mm macro lens at close subject distance.
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If I remember rightly, you can set the interval in the camera
 
GreenNinja67 said:
Lovely 5 days down in Swanage, Dorset. (Was meant to be a week but that's a long story).

Thought I'd give the EM1 MK2 a try out with my favourite type of image, long exposure seascapes to see what it could do.

I'm not dissapointed.

12-40mm f2.8 PRO @35mm f5.6

7 minute exposure edited in LR Classic and used LR DeNoise AI to remove the noise and hot pixels.


[url=https://flic.kr/p/2oGewah]Time and Tide by Terence Rees, on Flickr[/URL]
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7 minutes!! Wow, that’s a long time. Did the camera heat up?
Lovely image.
 
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