Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Nice set Trev.

Hope you are happy with it and it scratch’s that itch even if just for a short while!
Rob. It’s a very good lens. I also shot with one of my Fuji and 35f1.4. I’ll post something when I get a chance.
Preferred to shoot the Fuji because the EVF is better. Results though….
 
.... Only a 4-stack < Onboard? That 90mm Macro lens is brilliant! I want one!!

No these are from just 4 separate handheld shots.
I need to set a custom button for stacking.
The details rendered by this lens blows me away.
 
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I'm sure this has been asked before, but does anyone have any recommendations for a third party battery for the OMD EM1 mk3? Search managed to return an option for a sony.... :/

thanks
I've used the Hahnel HLX-H1
Got mine from WEX
 
Note sure if this will be of interest to anyone, but over the last couple of days I've shot with my Nikon Z9 (with the Nikon Z 100-400 S, and the 500mm PF), and today with my OM-1 with the 300mm F4 Pro. I may have mentioned some of these before but both cameras are superb image and video making tools, but as good as each is (and they are really good), there are a few things that one does better than the other ( I guess the same would apply to the OM-1 vs a Nikon Z8 ?) Some are minor and just annoyances, others more problematic and could maybe be solved via a firmware tweak (and no I'm not going to talk about size or weight of each system)?

OM-1 Advantages (in no particular order)
When using an external mic in the hotshoe (which is a lot of the time for me), on the OM-1 you only have to open a small cover on the side of the camera that's just for that port only. On the Z9 (and Z8), to get to the Mic port you have to open a much larger cover that also covers the headphone and (in the case of the Z9), the ethernet socket, leaving them exposed to the elements and potential water ingress in inclement weather ?

When flicking from Photo to Movie mode on the OM-1 (which I've assigned to the lever on the back of the camera next to the AF joystick, so it behaves much like the Nikon Z cameras), the OM-1 doesn't pull across the shooting settings you had in photo mode and vice-versa, but fully remembers what program mode, aperture, shutter speed etc you had dialled in for Movie mode making the two shooting modes completely independent of each other. So for example I could be in Shutter priority in photo mode shooting at 1/1600 sec at F4, and when I flick across to movie mode it remembers where I was last at say, manual mode, 1/100 sec f5.6. On the Z9 it just doesn't work that way and it continually bugs the hell out of me, that every time I flick into movie mode, I have to adjust all my settings again, then back again when going into photo mode.

The AF and AF subject tracking on both cameras is pretty amazing, but the OM-1 system is sooo much easier to use and it's a much simpler set up. With the Z9 there are many more AF modes and you really have to get to know them to get the best out of the camera. Overall I still find the OM-1 AF more responsive that the Z9 (albeit not be a huge margin), and it seems to find and hold onto a subject more tenaciously than the Z9, and initial acquisition is certainly a little bit quicker on the OM-1

I like having a proper mode dial on the OM-1 vs pressing a button and then turning the sub command dial on the Z9, to choose between P, A, S, M for example.

Much prefer the implementation of the OM-1's memory banks that are stored in C1-C4 on the mode dial, rather than the setting banks on the Z9. Never really liked the setting banks on my Nikon DSLR's but Nikon seems to be sticking with this for their pro-camera bodies.

Still amazes me that despite many companies now including their version of pro-capture in their camera bodies, than most don't allow Raw files and don't give any like the options that the Olympus bodies give you.

The IBIS on the OM-1 is still the standard by which others will be judged. I'm constantly amazed that I can hand hold a 300mm lens (600mm equivalent),reliably down to 1/2 second of more if required.

OM-1 can shoot frame rates faster than 20fps (for example 50fps in pro capture) and all rates are available in raw whereas anything over 20fps on the Nikon reverts to jpg only.

Z9 advantages (in no particular order)
No expensive shutter mechanisms to break and induce shutter shock (although to be fair (touch wood), I have to say all my Olympus bodies have been faultlessly reliable).

Amazing buffer if using the right CF Express Card and using the right raw file type in camera pretty much makes the buffer endless (or until the card fills).

I like the fact that when in movie mode, whether you are shooting in 8 bit or 10 bit mode, you still have access to ALL the picture profiles, whereas on the OM-1 in 10 bit mode you only have the choice of OM Log 400 or HLG.

The sheer breath of video formats and frame rates on the Z9 is breath taking (4k 120p, 8k 60p all internally.

As good as the battery life on the OM-1 is (and it's very good), even with the grip and a second battery, the Z9 battery just goes on and on and on.......

Love the fact that when you are shooting or reviewing images in portrait mode, all the information in the viewfinder or rear screen adapts to the same aspect (think Nikon stole that from Fujifilm !)

The 45mp files from the Z9 are just lovely and still gives a D500 matching DX crop of 20mp.

Despite the lower resolution of the Z9's electronic viewfinder (3.5mp vs 5 in the OM-1), somehow the Z9's seems as detailed and is as close to a normal analogue viewfinder as I've seen and it's refresh rate never seems to drop even when light levels drop.

No system or camera body is perfect of course and that certainly goes for OM-Systems (Olympus) and Nikon (as well as others), but these really are two fantastic bodies with great lenses in both system. I think my takeaway in owning both, is will all the hoopla surrounding the new Nikon Z8 (which like the Z9 will surely be an amazing camera), micro four thirds users shouldn't feel short changed or overly jealous, as the OM Systems (Olympus) system really can give the big full frame boys a run for their money. If I was asked what is my preferred rig over the two mentioned at the top of this post, honestly I'd have to say the OM-1 with the 300mm F4 Pro, except when light levels drop or I need to shoot video formats the Olympus can't offer. Do I really need a Z9 then - no, it's an expensive luxury and I'd be perfectly happy with just the OM1 system if i had to, but then sometimes it's nice to have some luxury's in life :D
 
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I'm sure this has been asked before, but does anyone have any recommendations for a third party battery for the OMD EM1 mk3? Search managed to return an option for a sony.... :/

thanks
I use EXPRO ones order direct from the u.k factory/importer works very well indeed
 
Note sure if this will be of interest to anyone, but over the last couple of days I've shot with my Nikon Z9 (with the Nikon Z 100-400 S, and the 500mm PF), and today with my OM-1 with the 300mm F4 Pro. I may have mentioned some of these before but both cameras are superb image and video making tools, but as good as each is (and they are really good), there are a few things that one does better than the other ( I guess the same would apply to the OM-1 vs a Nikon Z8 ?) Some are minor and just annoyances, others more problematic and could maybe be solved via a firmware tweak (and no I'm not going to talk about size or weight of each system)?

OM-1 Advantages (in no particular order)
When using an external mic in the hotshoe (which is a lot of the time for me), on the OM-1 you only have to open a small cover on the side of the camera that's just for that port only. On the Z9 (and Z8), to get to the Mic port you have to open a much larger cover that also covers the headphone and (in the case of the Z9), the ethernet socket, leaving them exposed to the elements and potential water ingress in inclement weather ?

When flicking from Photo to Movie mode on the OM-1 (which I've assigned to the lever on the back of the camera next to the AF joystick, so it behaves much like the Nikon Z cameras), the OM-1 doesn't pull across the shooting settings you had in photo mode and vice-versa, but fully remembers what program mode, aperture, shutter speed etc you had dialled in for Movie mode making the two shooting modes completely independent of each other. So for example I could be in Shutter priority in photo mode shooting at 1/1600 sec at F4, and when I flick across to movie mode it remembers where I was last at say, manual mode, 1/100 sec f5.6. On the Z9 it just doesn't work that way and it continually bugs the hell out of me, that every time I flick into movie mode, I have to adjust all my settings again, then back again when going into movie mode.

The AF and AF subject tracking on both cameras is pretty amazing, but the OM-1 system is sooo much easier to use and it's a much simpler set up. With the Z9 there are many more AF modes and you really have to get to know them to get the best out of the camera. Overall I still find the OM-1 AF more responsive that the Z9 (albeit not be a huge margin), and seems to find and hold onto a subject more tenaciously than the Z9, and initial acquisition is certainly quicker on the OM-1

I like having a proper mode dial on the OM-1 vs pressing a button and then turning the sub command dial on the Z9, so choose between P, A, S, M for example.

Much prefer the implementation of the OM-1's memory banks that are stored in C1-C4 on the mode dial, rather than the setting banks on the Z9. Never really liked the setting banks on my Nikon DSLR's but Nikon seems to be sticking with this for their pro-camera bodies.

Still amazes me that despite many companies now including their version of pro-capture in their camera bodies, than most don't allow Raw files and don't give any like the options that the Olympus bodies give you.

The IBIS on the OM-1 is still the standard by which others will be judged. I'm constantly amazed that I can hand hold a 300mm lens (600mm equivalent),reliably down to 1/2 second of more if required.

OM-1 can shoot frame rates fast than 20fps (for example 50fps in pro capture) and all rates are available in raw whereas anything over 20fps on the Nikon reverts to jpg only.

Z9 advantages (in no particular order)
No expensive shutter mechanisms to break and induce shutter shock (although to be fair (touch wood), I have to say all my Olympus bodies have been faultlessly reliable).

Amazing buffer if using the right CF Express Card and using the right raw file type in camera pretty much makes the buffer endless (or until the card fills).

I like the fact that when in movie mode, whether you are shooting in 8 bit or 10 bit mode, you still have access to ALL the picture profiles, whereas on the OM-1 in 10 bit mode you only have the choice of OM Log 400 or HLG.

The sheer breath of video formats and frame rates on the Z9 is breath taking (4k 120p, 8k 60p all internally.

As good as the battery life on the OM-1 is (and it's very good), even with the grip and a second battery, the Z9 battery just goes on and on and on.......

Love the fact that when you are shooting or reviewing images in portrait mode, all the information in the viewfinder or rear screen adapts to the same aspect (think Nikon stole that from Fujifilm !)

The 45mp files from the Z9 are just lovely and still gives a D500 matching DX crop of 20mp.

Despite the lower resolution of the Z9's electronic viewfinder (3.5mp vs 5 in the OM-1), somehow the Z9's seems as detailed and is as close to a normal analogue viewfinder as I've seen and it's refresh rate never seems to drop even when light levels drop.

No system or camera body is perfect of course and that certainly goes for OM-Systems (Olympus) and Nikon (as well as others), but these really are two fantastic bodies with great lenses in both system. I think my takeaway in owning both, is will all the hoopla surrounding the new Nikon Z8 (which like the Z9 will surely be an amazing camera), micro four thirds users shouldn't feel short changed or overly jealous, as the OM Systems (Olympus) system really can give the big full frame boys a run for their money. If I was asked what is my preferred rig over the two mentioned at the top of this post, honestly I'd have to say the OM-1 with the 300mm F4 Pro, except when light levels drop or I need to shoot video formats the Olympus can't offer. Do I really need a Z9 then - no, it's an expensive luxury and I'd be perfectly happy with just the OM1 system if i had to, but then sometimes it's nice to have some luxury's in life :D
Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I've never used Nikon, but I still have a foot in the Canon camp with an R5. Like your findings, both have their strengths and weaknesses IMO. I also use the lever to switch between video and stills, however I can't pretend to know what I'm doing with video. I wished I did.

I find battery life on the OM1 way better than the R5, but many of my batteries are quite old now. I think the OM1 may just have the edge on the focusing too - at least when I'm using the 300mm f/4.

One weakness with the Canon for me is that whilst it will let me manually focus, it doesn't show the peaking unless I have switched the lens to manual focus - which involves taking my eye away from the viewfinder. I love that the OM1 will show the peaking (I use C-Af+ Mf) - great for a bird surrounded by hedge or against a busy background.

I use double back button focus on my Canon which allows me to use my thumb for focusing - and just move it from one button to another, depending if I want to use subject detection or not. It is more clicks on the OM1 to go from one to the other and this has bugged me a little.... particularly because I have to change the focus area too, so just turning off subject detect is not enough.... however these last few weeks I have discovered some options on the OM1 which have improved things....

You may all already know these things...

First discovery.... I have set one of the buttons on the front of my camera to toggle the subject detection on and off. I discovered that if I hold that button and then move the front dial, I can choose a different subject or turn it off! Very handy!

Second discovery.... I have the other button on the front of my camera to toggle C1 on and off, and I set up C1 for birds in flight with subject detect.. The only downside is that sometimes my camera goes to sleep and if I have changed something away from the C1 default e.g. increasing the shutter speed, then that is lost. So my second discovery is that in the menu, you can change it so that any changes you make whilst using C1 'stick' - Yay!!! This is a massive improvement for me. (I think it is called 'hold').

Has anyone else made any useful discoveries? I'm sure it's all in the manual, but...
 
@RedRobin - the issues you had - was that using the 2x extender? I used mine on my 40-150 the other day and it struggled to focus using the OM1. I haven't used the 2x extender much, so I didn't know whether I was expecting too much. This was also using bird detect.
 
@RedRobin - the issues you had - was that using the 2x extender? I used mine on my 40-150 the other day and it struggled to focus using the OM1. I haven't used the 2x extender much, so I didn't know whether I was expecting too much. This was also using bird detect.
.... I have used the 2x MC-20 many times on all the Pro lenses which it will fit and always without any problems attributable to it.

I'll reply in due course about the long distance Osprey image posted earlier but have to leave now to shoot a steam train on the mainline up north and then stay with my daughter in Bristol for a couple of days and will visit Somerset Levels on my way home.

Meanwhile I think my problem was contributed to by my AF settings but I'll report in more detail later. Modern cameras can be too damned complicated!
 
You may all already know these things...

First discovery.... I have set one of the buttons on the front of my camera to toggle the subject detection on and off. I discovered that if I hold that button and then move the front dial, I can choose a different subject or turn it off! Very handy!
.... Quite a few of the buttons will offer you sub options when you hold them down and move the front cog dial.

The ISO button very conveniently next to your thumb does so for example. Consequently I never use Auto ISO which rarely sets what I want.

But when shooting in heavy rain both cog dials on my OM-1 often feel stiff - Probably due to the weatherseals but it can be frustrating when you need to change a setting in a hurry. My lenses never stiffen up at all. Except that the 100-400mm always felt stiff anyway < I really didn't enjoy that lens! I got some decent images with it but if all OMD lenses were like that I wouldn't be shooting OMD at all!

Strangely, after showering (gentle spray) my OMD Pro gear at home, the dials are ok.
 
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.... I have used the 2x MC-20 many times on all the Pro lenses which it will fit and always without any problems attributable to it.

I'll reply in due course about the long distance Osprey image posted earlier but have to leave now to shoot a steam train on the mainline up north and then stay with my daughter in Bristol for a couple of days and will visit Somerset Levels on my way home.

Meanwhile I think my problem was contributed to by my AF settings but I'll report in more detail later. Modern cameras can be too damned complicated!
I know :ROFLMAO: My hubby likes to joke ‘is it too complicated for you?’:LOL: You have to keep your wits about you.

Only this morning I got caught out… It seems that when I’d previously set up my C1 settings, I’d changed the customised buttons on the camera, so that when I was in C1 some things didn’t work as expected… it’s extremely easy to confuse yourself, these cameras are so very clever!

Sounds like a great few days planned. Enjoy!
 
@RedRobin - the issues you had - was that using the 2x extender? I used mine on my 40-150 the other day and it struggled to focus using the OM1. I haven't used the 2x extender much, so I didn't know whether I was expecting too much. This was also using bird detect.
I’m just selling my 2x only had it a few weeks but I can’t gel with it , hard enough trying to find a bird at 840mm trying at 1200 mm while I.q is fine I’m missing more than I’m getting. Plus shooting at f8 defeats the purpose of getting a f4 lens
 
Ahhhh this is frustrating!

I am trying to shoot focus stacks or bracketing mode with flash on my E-M1ii's and the shutter speed is defaulting to 1/50th sec with my Nissin i40 which is useless to me. The flash shutter speed speeds are set in camera to a minimum of 1/200th.
 
Ahhhh this is frustrating!

I am trying to shoot focus stacks or bracketing mode with flash on my E-M1ii's and the shutter speed is defaulting to 1/50th sec with my Nissin i40 which is useless to me. The flash shutter speed speeds are set in camera to a minimum of 1/200th.
I seem to remember having similar issues, but with a later camera. I thought it was perhaps limited to 1/60s? I can't quite remember now.
 
not at all Pete ,keep up the good work ... its showing what the 90mm is capable of
 
I got my hands on a 1.4tc and was testing it out at lunchtime. I only really got this usable photo and even then this was shot into direct sunlight so not the best example of what can be done with the tc. This was with the 90mm macro. The fly is probably just under 1cm long.
I did notice a slight loss in sharpness when used with the 90mm and 300mm and AF speed is reduced a bit but I was pleased to see that it didnt look like any increase in minimum focus distance on the 300mm. ( I haven't measured it, it just felt about the same to me )
I am looking forward to see what I can get with 1.4tc on the 90mm in ideal conditions though, it should be interesting magnification wise.

greenfly250523.jpg
 
I got my hands on a 1.4tc and was testing it out at lunchtime. I only really got this usable photo and even then this was shot into direct sunlight so not the best example of what can be done with the tc. This was with the 90mm macro. The fly is probably just under 1cm long.
I did notice a slight loss in sharpness when used with the 90mm and 300mm and AF speed is reduced a bit but I was pleased to see that it didnt look like any increase in minimum focus distance on the 300mm. ( I haven't measured it, it just felt about the same to me )
I am looking forward to see what I can get with 1.4tc on the 90mm in ideal conditions though, it should be interesting magnification wise.

View attachment 390456

The 90mm is great with the MC-14

red back by Alf Branch, on Flickr

Dicyrtomina saundersi by Alf Branch, on Flickr

Collembola stack by Alf Branch, on Flickr
 
looks good alf
 
cant argue with them alf
 
A dilemma :thinking:

I will be going to a Tawny Owl hide and the light will be, none too surprisingly, a challenge even though they use 'ambient light panels' to add illumination to the scene.

The dilemma of which I speak is they recommend 400mm (in full frame terms) but of course my 40-150mm f2.8 equals 300mm but if I add my x1.4 TC I get max 420mm at the cost of 1 stop i.e.f4

Using the bare lens I will have more potential control of higher shutter & reduced ISO.......however, more likely the need to (compositionally) crop in post.

With the TC added, less cropping required BUT more noise. Which in the main (in either case) is handled very well by DxO PL Deep Prime.

In the situation which path would you take:-
Greater crop but reduced noise?
Less of a crop but higher noise to contend with?

As in all hide work, especially an elusive bird that typically makes 2 or 3 visits only, I do not want to be caught out by adding and/or removing the TC :(:oops: :$

I would welcome your thoughts and insights. :D
 
IMHO this ( Using the bare lens I will have more potential control of higher shutter & reduced ISO.......however, more likely the need to (compositionally) crop in post. )
a wider field of view is also handy for hard to get shots and i think shutter speed will be king -it normally is for birds.
Rob.
 
A dilemma :thinking:

I will be going to a Tawny Owl hide and the light will be, none too surprisingly, a challenge even though they use 'ambient light panels' to add illumination to the scene.

The dilemma of which I speak is they recommend 400mm (in full frame terms) but of course my 40-150mm f2.8 equals 300mm but if I add my x1.4 TC I get max 420mm at the cost of 1 stop i.e.f4

Using the bare lens I will have more potential control of higher shutter & reduced ISO.......however, more likely the need to (compositionally) crop in post.

With the TC added, less cropping required BUT more noise. Which in the main (in either case) is handled very well by DxO PL Deep Prime.

In the situation which path would you take:-
Greater crop but reduced noise?
Less of a crop but higher noise to contend with?

As in all hide work, especially an elusive bird that typically makes 2 or 3 visits only, I do not want to be caught out by adding and/or removing the TC :(:oops: :$

I would welcome your thoughts and insights. :D
I think it's a tough call. I think I'd be tempted to go for the bare lens option. Do you also own the 300mm lens? That might be quicker to change between that and the 40-150 rather than fiddling about with the extender.

Would the people whose hide it is be able to advise? They might know more about what ISOs are likely given their additional lights.
 
I stumbled across this hare this morning...
20230526-O5268105_1.jpg

It made me chuckle because my spectacles and/or my viewfinder all steamed up - I could hardly see what I was shooting. Does anyone else find that happens? It was early morning and this was the first few shots of the day. I was really hoping it wouldn't spot my breath and was pleased that I managed to squat still for so long :)

Then to my surprise, enter left, another hare! I had the sensitivity set to +1 which I thought meant it would focus on whatever came into the frame, but not this time it seems :ROFLMAO: I must check the manual.

My recent discovery was really useful as I was able to change it to mammal detection from bird detection without taking my eye from the viewfinder. I did forget to reset the exposure compensation though :rolleyes:

20230526-O5268106_1.jpg 20230526-O5268107_1.jpg20230526-O5268108_1.jpg20230526-O5268109_1.jpg
 
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IMHO this ( Using the bare lens I will have more potential control of higher shutter & reduced ISO.......however, more likely the need to (compositionally) crop in post. )
a wider field of view is also handy for hard to get shots and i think shutter speed will be king -it normally is for birds.
Rob.
Very good and valid perspective.

If a bit more environment in the VF and images.......a crop may not be a frame filler but as you point out the slightly wider FoV can be and is beneficial
I think it's a tough call. I think I'd be tempted to go for the bare lens option. Do you also own the 300mm lens? That might be quicker to change between that and the 40-150 rather than fiddling about with the extender.

Would the people whose hide it is be able to advise? They might know more about what ISOs are likely given their additional lights.
As I understand the hide advice for this species 400mm is the sweet spot and 300mm mFT is 600mm full frame equivalent......that will too long.

In regard to ISO, in Comms is likely to be in excess of 800!

In summary, the bare 40-150mm f2.8 looks like the most appropriate option........though keeping the x1.4 TC to hand should the situation indicate it's possible usage.
 
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