Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Bebop said:
Hover dogs! :) Great timing and really shows how good the autofocus is. Was this using the animal detect Af?
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HI Bebop, thanks - yes using the animal and dog AI Tracking. To be honest it feels like cheating as is almost too easy to get a great shot with the OM-1 due to it's superb Autofocus and fast frame rates :)
 
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@ Trevorbray - love how your Collie looks like it's being real aggressive towards the pup, but is probably just playing.
 
Sootchucker said:
@ Trevorbray - love how your Collie looks like it's being real aggressive towards the pup, but is probably just playing.
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Yep. It’s all play. The pup is alive and well. She often starts it. They love each other.
 
peat said:
More time with the 90mm today. Still not that many insects out and about over here yet but did find a load of tiny things in a ditch. I assumed some sort of pond skater but apparently its a Water Cricket. It was just under 1cm long. This was a 15 shot stack handheld. I am sure it could be better but the 90mm macro is impressing me.

View attachment 385909
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Wow it’s amazing to see what’s living around us. Such beautiful colours too.
 
This is an old shot - from 2020, but I thought @RedRobin might be interested having seen a similar post on here. I didn't want to detract from that thread.

Its great fun to try longer exposures of surfers and kite/windsurfers. Sometimes I've used a 3 stop filter on bright days. The Olympus system with its IS is great for this.

This was taken at 1/80s on the EM1ii . I've used Topaz and I can see artefacts - plus the forum seems to have made it look more soft. It is extremely difficult to get it sharp if they're carving as opposed to speeding along parallel to the waves. I had a windsurfer shot that was much better and I think went into a magazine, but that was years ago and I'm struggling to find it.

Sometimes I've gone down to 1/40s, but haven't managed the 1/20s in the other thread, but then it's usually good waves and very windy which toughens the challenge.

200606123135-BC061350-Edit_1.jpg

I took some more last week, but they were using my Canon, so I'll just post a link. This time I closed the aperture to a ridiculous f/20 (no filters with me) and managed 1/100s. They're here https://wightshots.pixieset.com/kitesurfing25-03-2023/
They were processed in CaptureOne and are a little over sharpened for my tastes.

I'm now going to go doolally looking for the windsurfer image that I really liked. :LOL:
 
peat said:
More time with the 90mm today. Still not that many insects out and about over here yet but did find a load of tiny things in a ditch. I assumed some sort of pond skater but apparently its a Water Cricket. It was just under 1cm long. This was a 15 shot stack handheld. I am sure it could be better but the 90mm macro is impressing me.

View attachment 385909
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I didn't realise there was such a thing. Amazing shot! :love:
 
Bebop said:
This is an old shot - from 2020, but I thought @RedRobin might be interested having seen a similar post on here. I didn't want to detract from that thread.

Its great fun to try longer exposures of surfers and kite/windsurfers. Sometimes I've used a 3 stop filter on bright days. The Olympus system with its IS is great for this.

This was taken at 1/80s on the EM1ii . I've used Topaz and I can see artefacts - plus the forum seems to have made it look more soft. It is extremely difficult to get it sharp if they're carving as opposed to speeding along parallel to the waves. I had a windsurfer shot that was much better and I think went into a magazine, but that was years ago and I'm struggling to find it.

Sometimes I've gone down to 1/40s, but haven't managed the 1/20s in the other thread, but then it's usually good waves and very windy which toughens the challenge.

View attachment 385907

I took some more last week, but they were using my Canon, so I'll just post a link. This time I closed the aperture to a ridiculous f/20 (no filters with me) and managed 1/100s. They're here https://wightshots.pixieset.com/kitesurfing25-03-2023/
They were processed in CaptureOne and are a little over sharpened for my tastes.

I'm now going to go doolally looking for the windsurfer image that I really liked. :LOL:
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.... Exactly as you say, the slight vertical movements of a surfer when panned at slower shutter speeds is extremely challenging and the hit rate is always low. Consequently, windsurfers are usually easier than kitesurfers.

I shot this one at 1/30s :

SHUTTER SPEED TEST by Robin Procter, on Flickr
 
@RedRobin That’s fab. I so wish we had blue water here and not the muddy stuff :)

I love the effect of long exposures with the splashes and some of my favourites are the ones that end up a bit abstract, but I have a feeling I’m the only one that likes them :ROFLMAO:

edit: I meant to ask, do you use an ND filter?
 
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Bebop said:
@RedRobin That’s fab. I so wish we had blue water here and not the muddy stuff :)

I love the effect of long exposures with the splashes and some of my favourites are the ones that end up a bit abstract, but I have a feeling I’m the only one that likes them :ROFLMAO:
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.... My local tends to be either brown or grey waters being on Dorset's Jurassic Coast. But I often get invited down to Cornwall's north coast.

MANIC JURASSIC by Robin Procter, on Flickr

^ ^ ^ Shot on my OM-1 + big white zoom weapon as usual. Styled for my Instagram page @robinsurfpix.
 
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Bebop said:
@RedRobin
I love the effect of long exposures with the splashes and some of my favourites are the ones that end up a bit abstract, but I have a feeling I’m the only one that likes them :ROFLMAO:
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.... I like the long exposures on surfers and the ocean too but I'm usually too busy trying to capture the best maneouvres of my surfer bros far out at sea.

S L O O O W CHILL by Robin Procter, on Flickr
 
Bebop said:
@RedRobin
edit: I meant to ask, do you use an ND filter?
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..... I tried the OM-1's onboard ND feature (I can't be bothered to faff around with conventional filters) last year when I was in Nazare Portugal while waiting for some big waves but haven't tried ND since as I'm usually too busy trying to capture the maneouvres of my surfer bros (and sistas!).

But I intend to try the ND feature again. I'm not keen on the cliche of milky mist waterfall photos and prefer to capture a semblance of reality.

A CALM DAY AT NAZARE PORTUGAL by Robin Procter, on Flickr

GIRLS SURF TOO! by Robin Procter, on Flickr[/USER]

^ ^ ^ I strongly recommend the Olympus TG-6 TOUGH as a pocket camera for quick snaps like this one of Olympia and Katherine. It shoots RAW and is waterproof down to 45ft deep!
 
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@RedRobin beautiful colours in the beach shot at Nazaré. I would love to see the big waves there. It was flat calm when I was visited.

I'm glad it's not only me that has to suffer muddy water :ROFLMAO: Those are big waves in your Jurassic coast shot!

I'm not keen on foamy water either, but sometimes it works. I don't think the inbuilt ND works for moving things - It might be interesting to try :) I tend to forget it's there - a bit like the hi-res.
 
Hi, I am predominantly a Sony shooter but looking at buying a second body, interested in the Olympus pro capture option but don't want to jump in with the latest and greatest model to start with so what model would you suggest for starters along with a 100-400mm lens? (NOT the £6000 model:))
Many Thanks. Russ.
 
1-mkii,1 -mkiii, E.M1X. The latter being older but having bird I.d built in to latest firmware .. all those models can be found used ,usually with dealer warranties from between £400-£800
 
There are a lot of secondhand E-M1 III and E-M1X available at good prices as their owners p/xed them for OM-1s and you only need to look at Jeff's work to see what they can do in combination with the 100-400mm.
 
I'm swapping over to the light side at the moment, Just got a EM1x (ok not so light) but the lenses are. Just sent my FF stuff off to MPB.
The focus and IBIS is such a treat and the frame rate increase allows all sorts of picture saving ideas like pro-capture.

Mind you it will take years working out the controls with only a manual in pdf format at the moment.
 
Snapsh0t said:
There are a lot of secondhand E-M1 III and E-M1X available at good prices as their owners p/xed them for OM-1s and you only need to look at Jeff's work to see what they can do in combination with the 100-400mm.
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Unless there is something wrong with the MPB mobile app, I have heard they have been having issues booking in purchases recently. They have 1 mk3 and no mk2’s. I have never seen the stock levels of these models so low there.
WEX only have 1 mk3 and 2 cheaper mk2’s
 
the full manual is available on evil bay for around a fiver .. but beware its just under 700 pages long . most of it un-warranted what do you NEED to know ?
 
leaky5 said:
Unless there is something wrong with the MPB mobile app, I have heard they have been having issues booking in purchases recently. They have 1 mk3 and no mk2’s. I have never seen the stock levels of these models so low there.
WEX only have 1 mk3 and 2 cheaper mk2’s
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try looking on SRS Microsystems years warranty from them
 
Hopefully that will push p.x back to a more sensible valuation . Silly prices have been offered of late
 
the black fox said:
the full manual is available on evil bay for around a fiver .. but beware its just under 700 pages long . most of it un-warranted what do you NEED to know ?
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I need to know how the beast works, I prefer to read about it rather than trying to flick backwards and forwards in a pdf doc. I know there are many youtube videos, but a lot contain info I don't need or can be a bit confusing.

I have the basic manual, about 330 pages long but in 33 different languages.

I'm considering what my custom modes will be used for and what settings to start with.

I'm not keen on assiging function to other buttons just because you can.

I'm changing my photographic from landscape centric to more wildlife, but will still do landscape when in the right areas.

Pete
 
seaodyssey said:
I need to know how the beast works, I prefer to read about it rather than trying to flick backwards and forwards in a pdf doc. I know there are many youtube videos, but a lot contain info I don't need or can be a bit confusing.

I have the basic manual, about 330 pages long but in 33 different languages.

I'm considering what my custom modes will be used for and what settings to start with.

I'm not keen on assiging function to other buttons just because you can.

I'm changing my photographic from landscape centric to more wildlife, but will still do landscape when in the right areas.

Pete
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Olympus menus can be confusing at best especially as there sub menus in there to ,but it does fall into place with time, I only got my e.m1x at Christmas but I had a few years with the other 1 series models to fall back on , for birding keep af sens to -2 , with bird I.d engaged start with all points and reduce as you learn the system , forget BBF and just use the hyper sens front one . Though bbf will stay engaged if needed .. shoot in RAW and use topaz de.noise .. I keep C1 with av mode and most settings in auto for static birds C2 with shutter priority set a 1/2000th for b.I.f .. I also assign the i.s.o button for quick focus point changing combined with front wheel .easy to do on the fly . Remember any changes made with camera on stay on .but once switched off it reverts to C settings
 
If you're a bit of a technophobe like me you'll find it a challenge! But the OM1 at least is perfectly acceptable for landscapes although there may be limitations in how far you can crop and enlarge images. I found the EM1.2 acceptable too. Think 200 ISO for most landscapes.

For wildlife you'll normally need ISO's of 1000 or more. Using one of the NR technologies like DXO or Topaz is pretty much de rigeur at these higher ISO's. But DXO gives fantastic results normally and you can then add further sharpening and NR (if necessary, and with care) in LR.
 
the black fox said:
Olympus menus can be confusing at best especially as there sub menus in there to ,but it does fall into place with time, I only got my e.m1x at Christmas but I had a few years with the other 1 series models to fall back on , for birding keep af sens to -2 , with bird I.d engaged start with all points and reduce as you learn the system , forget BBF and just use the hyper sens front one . Though bbf will stay engaged if needed .. shoot in RAW and use topaz de.noise .. I keep C1 with av mode and most settings in auto for static birds C2 with shutter priority set a 1/2000th for b.I.f .. I also assign the i.s.o button for quick focus point changing combined with front wheel .easy to do on the fly . Remember any changes made with camera on stay on .but once switched off it reverts to C settings
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Thats a lot of help.

I was plying around with some settingings yesterday and got one load of shots (ProCapture) well exposed and a short while later a whole load of under exposed one. The difference being the mettering mode Centre Weight Averaga against spot, is there any way to see where the spot was located on the picture, I have OM Workspace and On1 PR. I assume it follws the focus point.

I can see that centre weighted would be on the centre of the picture, hence the name.
 
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jerry12953 said:
If you're a bit of a technophobe like me you'll find it a challenge! But the OM1 at least is perfectly acceptable for landscapes although there may be limitations in how far you can crop and enlarge images. I found the EM1.2 acceptable too. Think 200 ISO for most landscapes.

For wildlife you'll normally need ISO's of 1000 or more. Using one of the NR technologies like DXO or Topaz is pretty much de rigeur at these higher ISO's. But DXO gives fantastic results normally and you can then add further sharpening and NR (if necessary, and with care) in LR.
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I have a very logical brain and try to work out why things work, but It wonders around all over the place and ends up way off the staring point.
I would think I have adult adhd to some extent along with dyslexia.
 
for wildlife just leave it on matrix I, dont find the meter on the m1x that good compared to the mkiii so its best to do a test shot and compensate from there .. pro cap is fine but stick to pro.cap low as high only works from the first shots settings , but it might be better to just use sequential low till you get used to it more , in silent shutter you can shoot a burst at up to 18fps though 15 fps gives better results, just ensure you have a focus lock before firing , I'll assume your using CAF+trk
 
seaodyssey said:
I need to know how the beast works, I prefer to read about it rather than trying to flick backwards and forwards in a pdf doc. I know there are many youtube videos, but a lot contain info I don't need or can be a bit confusing.

I have the basic manual, about 330 pages long but in 33 different languages.

I'm considering what my custom modes will be used for and what settings to start with.

I'm not keen on assiging function to other buttons just because you can.

I'm changing my photographic from landscape centric to more wildlife, but will still do landscape when in the right areas.

Pete
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.... Hmm, assigning various buttons to various functions which you know your repertoire of target subjects will benefit from will save you valuable time and less shot opportunities missed - Especially with wildlife!

You can even assign one of C1/C2/C3/C4 groups of personal settings to just one button - That is quicker than turning the Mode dial and you don't need to take your eye out of the viewfinder which is something else which loses you wildlife shots.

In fact, by default various buttons are already assigned - ProCapture for example.

Just do it, try it, it's worth the effort.

Olympus / OM mirrorless bodies are no more complicated than other brands and ALL camera brands basically do the same thing - And that applies to the metering options too.
 
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Just playing around at the moment till I get some decent lenses.(awaiting on MPB sorting some old stuff out)
 
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