Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

A lovely set and rather than compliment you on your fieldcraft with your stated 12-50mm lens..........until I clicked through to Flickr to see you had used and achieved some real crackers (above) with the, apparently little appreciated, 75-300mm zoom ;)

Whatever you are doing, keep at it :D

PS my fuddled brain......... missed the context of ~ taken with gear owned previously, not what you have now :banghead: :exit:
 
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jakeblu said:
Unfortunately still not in a position to buy a longish lens for my EM1 just have the cheapo Oly 12-50mm and really missing the bird photography so I thought I'd post a few of my favourites from last year.

Stonechat by jakeblu, on Flickr

Backlit Robin by jakeblu, on Flickr

Chaffinch by jakeblu, on Flickr

Touchdown by jakeblu, on Flickr

Goldfinch by jakeblu, on Flickr
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.... As said by @Box Brownie, a really nice set and a great example of the power of fieldcraft. As wildlife photographers we all always want more reach but the trick is to exploit what you've got and not think about what you haven't.
 
Box Brownie said:
A lovely set and rather than compliment you on your fieldcraft with your stated 12-50mm lens..........until I clicked through to Flickr to see you had used and achieved some real crackers (above) with the, apparently little appreciated, 75-300mm zoom ;)

Whatever you are doing, keep at it :D

PS my fuddled brain......... missed the context of ~ taken with gear owned previously, not what you have now :banghead: :exit:
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Yes, these were all taken with the 75-300, perhaps I should have been more explicit in the OP.
 
I agree with all of the above comments WD Steve
 
Advice required. I am planning on attending a few motorcycle event (covid allowing) this year. I currently have the EM- 1 mkii and the 100/400 lens which I intend to use at these event. What setting would you recommend. I plan to take most of the images from a side view so i will be panning. Are they any setting in the large Olympus menu that will help me produce good images.
 
rockdodger said:
Advice required. I am planning on attending a few motorcycle event (covid allowing) this year. I currently have the EM- 1 mkii and the 100/400 lens which I intend to use at these event. What setting would you recommend. I plan to take most of the images from a side view so i will be panning. Are they any setting in the large Olympus menu that will help me produce good images.
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You need to speak to Toby. @snerkler
 
rockdodger said:
Advice required. I am planning on attending a few motorcycle event (covid allowing) this year. I currently have the EM- 1 mkii and the 100/400 lens which I intend to use at these event. What setting would you recommend. I plan to take most of the images from a side view so i will be panning. Are they any setting in the large Olympus menu that will help me produce good images.
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Cool, right up my street. It all depends what look you're after and how much motion you want to portray. One thing to take into consideration with motorbike racing is that apart from long straights the rider is constantly moving around and therefore you might not want to use as slow a shutter speed as you might shooting cars.

My go to settings for motorsport is shutter priority (sometimes manual sometimes with auto ISO) and start off around 1/125 shutter speed and work my way to slower speeds, that being said at 400mm (800mm eq) slower speeds will be more tricky. In terms of focussing I mostly use single point AF-C, but sometimes will shoot manual and pre-focus.

If shooting through a fence and you want to shoot at low shutter speeds it's a good idea to get some ND filters so that aperture is as wide as possible to minimise the risk of the fence spoiling the shot.

I need no excuse to post photos :LOL:

This is one of my favourites, shot at 1/160 at the inside of Brooklands through a fence. This has had some processing to add a bit more motion but very little, maybe 5%

Marc Marquez by TDG-77, on Flickr

This was 1/10 and all motion is as shot SOOC, no fence

P6302247-Edit-Edit by TDG-77, on Flickr

If you're 'lucky' you can get slow shutter motorcycle shots without complete rider motion blur (1/15), no fence.

A9_07749-Edit-Edit by TDG-77, on Flickr

And for head on shots I will use higher shutters such as 1/1000, through a fence.

A9_06545-Edit-2 by TDG-77, on Flickr




Sorry the last 2 are shot with Sony ;)
 
snerkler said:
Cool, right up my street. It all depends what look you're after and how much motion you want to portray. One thing to take into consideration with motorbike racing is that apart from long straights the rider is constantly moving around and therefore you might not want to use as slow a shutter speed as you might shooting cars.

My go to settings for motorsport is shutter priority (sometimes manual sometimes with auto ISO) and start off around 1/125 shutter speed and work my way to slower speeds, that being said at 400mm (800mm eq) slower speeds will be more tricky. In terms of focussing I mostly use single point AF-C, but sometimes will shoot manual and pre-focus.

If shooting through a fence and you want to shoot at low shutter speeds it's a good idea to get some ND filters so that aperture is as wide as possible to minimise the risk of the fence spoiling the shot.

I need no excuse to post photos :LOL:

This is one of my favourites, shot at 1/160 at the inside of Brooklands through a fence. This has had some processing to add a bit more motion but very little, maybe 5%

Marc Marquez by TDG-77, on Flickr

This was 1/10 and all motion is as shot SOOC, no fence

P6302247-Edit-Edit by TDG-77, on Flickr

If you're 'lucky' you can get slow shutter motorcycle shots without complete rider motion blur (1/15), no fence.

A9_07749-Edit-Edit by TDG-77, on Flickr

And for head on shots I will use higher shutters such as 1/1000, through a fence.

A9_06545-Edit-2 by TDG-77, on Flickr




Sorry the last 2 are shot with Sony ;)
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.... These are stunningly good! Except I don't like black backgrounds.

Have you shot these handheld or a monopod or tripod with panning head?
 
RedRobin said:
.... These are stunningly good! Except I don't like black backgrounds.

Have you shot these handheld or a monopod or tripod with panning head?
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Thanks very much, very kind. All shot handheld as I’ve never managed to master the monopod. I keep trying but always seem to do better handheld.

I forgot to mention that I often use the low ISO setting as well as the ND filters to keep aperture wide
 
Rockdodger i shoot b.i.f with a 1-mkiii and 100-400 so same settings should apply . I have settled on auto iso, c.a.f , single point focus . Lens wide open at f6.3 .low speed burst , and using A/V mode .. if I can track owls in flight with that you should have no problem ..
Do ensure your camera firmware is up to date though .
Noise may be a issue so I would advise using topaz de.noise Ai in PP
 
the black fox said:
Rockdodger i shoot b.i.f with a 1-mkiii and 100-400 so same settings should apply . I have settled on auto iso, c.a.f , single point focus . Lens wide open at f6.3 .low speed burst , and using A/V mode .. if I can track owls in flight with that you should have no problem ..
Do ensure your camera firmware is up to date though .
Noise may be a issue so I would advise using topaz de.noise Ai in PP
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The only thing I’d add to this is that noise shouldn’t be an issue as you tend to use much slower shutter speeds shooting motorsport than shooting BIF as you want to portray motion rather than freeze it (y) You’re actually often finding the opposite as you’re wanting lower ISO such as 64 and 50.
 
Snerkler. There are some very good images you have put on. I especially like the Marquez ( even thou I'm not a fan of his). I also like the one of Redding from the front but I wont be trying many frontal shots to start with. my intension is to go to somewhere like Olivers Mount where you can get closer to the action and maybe a track day at Cadwell Park when there is less of a crowd. I appreciate all your advice and I have never thought of using an ND filter so i can keep the aperture wide. I will not be using a monopod or tripod as i prefer hand holding the camera plus its less stuff to hike around trying to find the best spots.
Cheers
 
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rockdodger said:
Snerkler. There are some very good images you have put on. I especially like the Marquez ( even thou I'm not a fan of his). I also like the one of Redding from the front but I wont be trying many frontal shots to start with. my intension is to go to somewhere like Olivers Mount where you can get closer to the action and maybe a track day at Cadwell Park when there is less of a crowd. I appreciate all your advice and I have never thought of using an ND filter so i can keep the aperture wide. I will not be using a monopod or tripod as i prefer hand holding the camera plus its les stuff to hike around trying to find the best spots.
Cheers
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Thanks. Hopefully something I’ve said will help, I look forward to seeing your images (y)
 
Snerkler hopefully I will manage to get some shots when the weather warms up and I will post some up on here.
Cheers
 
Black fox thanks for the reply and again some useful information. I will have to experiment with those setting and see what results I get. I will try them down at my local wildlife spot on some birds first just to get use to how the camera needs setting up. I think my firmware is up to date but I haven’t checked recently.
Cheers
 
snerkler said:
The only thing I’d add to this is that noise shouldn’t be an issue as you tend to use much slower shutter speeds shooting motorsport than shooting BIF as you want to portray motion rather than freeze it (y) You’re actually often finding the opposite as you’re wanting lower ISO such as 64 and 50.
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.... The officially stated optimum ISO for the Olympus M1X is 200, not any lower. I expect the same applies to other Olympus M1 bodies.
 
Superb sets of photos Alf ,showing what can really be achieved with our olympus gear
 
RedRobin said:
.... The officially stated optimum ISO for the Olympus M1X is 200, not any lower. I expect the same applies to other Olympus M1 bodies.
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Very true, but as we all know we can't always shoot at the optimum and we have to deviate in order to get the shot that we want, shooting at lower ISO allows for a slower shutter speed (y)
 
alfbranch said:
Lets show something a little different on this thread

From a misty morning at Crummock water

Crummock mist reflections 2 by Alf Branch, on Flickr

Crummock mist reflections by Alf Branch, on Flickr

Island in mist by Alf Branch, on Flickr

Crummock mist and island 2 by Alf Branch, on Flickr

Crummock mist_ by Alf Branch, on Flickr

Sunshine and mist by Alf Branch, on Flickr
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alfbranch said:
From the following day

At sunset

Ennerdale sunset mist by Alf Branch, on Flickr

after sunset Ennerdale

Ennerdale post sunset mist 1 by Alf Branch, on Flickr
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Simply stunning (y)

I'm very lucky living in Derbyshire but being honest my favourite scenes are lakes and mountains/hills so would love to spend time in the lakes, and Scotland.
 
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snerkler said:
Very true, but as we all know we can't always shoot at the optimum and we have to deviate in order to get the shot that we want, shooting at lower ISO allows for a slower shutter speed (y)
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:agree: Absolutely. I was informing people what the ideal lowest ISO recommended by Olympus is. I was told the technical reasons but can't remember the detail - I just needed to remember ISO 200 for my camera.
 
I use auto iso mainly due to changing light conditions from area to area but even with the 100-400 at f6.3 if the light is half decent the camera will revert to 200 iso and it really does give the best results
 
the black fox said:
Superb sets of photos Alf ,showing what can really be achieved with our olympus gear
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Thanks Jeff

wornish said:
Really impressive sets.
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Thanks David

damianmkv said:
all are stunning @alfbranch . I really need to get out
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Thanks Damian
It looks amazing out today and I wish I had time to be out but not today. Get out there and find your subject mate.

snerkler said:
Simply stunning (y)

I'm very lucky living in Derbyshire but being honest my favourite scenes are lakes and mountains/hills so would love to spend time in the lakes, and Scotland.
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Thanks Toby
I am lucky to live in West Cumbria but that has its drawbacks like rubbish weather and lack of truly natural environment and rubbish public transport etc

Stephen L said:
Once again, 2 great sets of photos. I've got to say, seeing your landscapes prompted my return to m4/3.
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Thanks Stephen I didn't realise it was my fault :runaway:
 
RedRobin said:
:agree: Absolutely. I was informing people what the ideal lowest ISO recommended by Olympus is. I was told the technical reasons but can't remember the detail - I just needed to remember ISO 200 for my camera.
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I'm with you and Olympus (and any manufacturer for that reason) in that in and ideal world I will shoot at base ISO, especially for landscapes. This is because base ISO will give you the optimal results in terms of noise and dynamic range (assuming all things equal). As we know shooting at higher ISO increases noise, and reduces dynamic range. On most cameras I've seen, shooting at extended low settings doesn't have any noise penalties but does decrease dynamic range as the end result is a post processed file.

What I mean by this is that to get an extended low ISO result the camera will first shoot at base and then apply processing to reduce the exposure. This means that you might actually get better shadow detail, but as a result you run the risk of losing highlight detail. For sports dynamic range is not often a major concern hence why I'll use extended low ISOs to get the shutter speed low, but I would never use extended low for landscapes for example.
 
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alfbranch said:
Thanks Toby
I am lucky to live in West Cumbria but that has its drawbacks like rubbish weather and lack of truly natural environment and rubbish public transport etc
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Yep, it's never perfect is it ;)
 
Stephen L said:
Once again, 2 great sets of photos. I've got to say, seeing your landscapes prompted my return to m4/3.
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Sorry might be a dumb question but why did it prompt your return to m4/3 over another format?
 
snerkler said:
Sorry might be a dumb question but why did it prompt your return to m4/3 over another format?
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Well, to cut a long story short, as you know I had been with Olympus since regular 4/3 days, and moved on basically because the grass was greener. But that meant increased bulk and weight. Meantime on that journey up to and through FF I had been keeping an eye on the developments of Olympus and Panasonic but was worried that my IQ would suffer if I went back. But seeing some excellent results from others, including @alfbranch , convinced me that a reduction in weight and bulk (of the camera) was not a bar to good quality. Only my own (lack of ) capability was the bar. On the way back down I briefly paused at Sony, but although the IQ was certainly there, ergonomics to me wasn’t. And if a camera doesn’t feel right in the hands, then it doesn’t encourage enjoyment. So here we are.
 
Stephen L said:
Well, to cut a long story short, as you know I had been with Olympus since regular 4/3 days, and moved on basically because the grass was greener. But that meant increased bulk and weight. Meantime on that journey up to and through FF I had been keeping an eye on the developments of Olympus and Panasonic but was worried that my IQ would suffer if I went back. But seeing some excellent results from others, including @alfbranch , convinced me that a reduction in weight and bulk (of the camera) was not a bar to good quality. Only my own (lack of ) capability was the bar. On the way back down I briefly paused at Sony, but although the IQ was certainly there, ergonomics to me wasn’t. And if a camera doesn’t feel right in the hands, then it doesn’t encourage enjoyment. So here we are.
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Makes perfect sense. I've never found Olympus lacking for most things tbh, including landscapes. As you say it's usually the numpty behind the camera that's lacking if anything (y)
 
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