Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Ye gods can you still buy that stuff , or is it war surplus LOL
 
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Not the best video
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5MpbQiAKbM
but it does show just how fast the bird detection works .
( its in Russian so might want to turn the sound down ) The AF speed just blows me away in how it appears to work.

Rob.

Rapid AF and eye acquisition on individual birds but slower and indecisive where there is more than one subject in the 'frame'. I think that is what Petr Bambosuek was referring to in his (initial) observations.

Having said that it is quite impressive in what it is intended to do !
 
I think for this type of shot to pick a bird out just use say 5 focus points i'm sure there will be a work around .

Rob.
 
I think for this type of shot to pick a bird out just use say 5 focus points i'm sure there will be a work around .
Rob.

.... Yes, for perched birds in trees to acquire focus on the eye but for tracking and acquiring focus for BiF in the sky it is best to activate ALL the AF points. If you have your starting AF set at the centre you can use the centre to aim and pick out the bird in the group which you want but it can still get distracted by another bird in the group. In other words track your target with the centre point. I have the 'rifle-sight' style cross hairs in my viewfinder by default.

I'm finding it's pretty impressive as long as you remember it's a robot which will only react to specific conditions and so it does get it wrong occasionally - You have to help it to help you and then it is very responsive.
 
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Yes that seems to cover it Robin , I forgot about centre start that should sort it out for most situations .

Rob.
 
Yes that seems to cover it Robin , I forgot about centre start that should sort it out for most situations .
Rob.

.... Just as I had forgotten about the Fn-1/2 lever. The two Robs make a good team!

Am now about to upload today's efforts from my SD card to my Mac, many using the AF Bird Detection.
 
Nuthatch from a little while ago with the E-M1 mk2 and the Panny 100-400.


Nuthatch
by Ajophotog, on ipernity

.... That's seriously good and demonstrates what the Panny is capable of in capable hands and in the right conditions.
 
.... That's seriously good and demonstrates what the Panny is capable of in capable hands and in the right conditions.
Robin that panny was a great lens apart from the focus hunting on fast moving subjects which is where the Olly excels. I did like the panny but got pretty frustrated with it at times.
 
Robin that panny was a great lens apart from the focus hunting on fast moving subjects which is where the Olly excels. I did like the panny but got pretty frustrated with it at times.

.... No such thing as the perfect lens (or camera), eh? My frustration with the Olympus ED 100-400mm is the limitations of the Manual Focus Ring compared with my Pro lenses. I am in the habit of checking if AF is on the target by touching the MF override and seeing Focus Peaking confirm focus.
 
Robin that panny was a great lens apart from the focus hunting on fast moving subjects which is where the Olly excels. I did like the panny but got pretty frustrated with it at times.
Yep my thoughts exactly
 
.... No such thing as the perfect lens (or camera), eh? My frustration with the Olympus ED 100-400mm is the limitations of the Manual Focus Ring compared with my Pro lenses. I am in the habit of checking if AF is on the target by touching the MF override and seeing Focus Peaking confirm focus.
Menu item A1 in the Cogs and AF+MF switch to on. This gives you full-time af and mf. Not sure if that was what you wanted.
 
I'm often asked how do you get the b.i.f so well . so little tip sharing here .. I noticed over the last couple of days that something had changed since the last update slowing down my ability to acquire targets fast .. so just been through all my settings on a 1.mkii it might ? be different for other models .

I have tended to have this set like this since acquiring the camera so its stood the test of time .. under normal use there is a split second of delay /black out when lifting the camera to your eye . I found out that if you set the EVF auto switch to off the display stays live thus enabling instant lock on to the birds or animals .. its only a split second of difference but it makes the difference between getting or losing a shot/target .

the reason I have posted this I missed two buzzard shots over the weekend that I would normally have got no problem .. so hope this helps ..

it will drain your battery slightly faster as the EVF should now be live but in practice I dont find it a problem
 
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Menu item A1 in the Cogs and AF+MF switch to on. This gives you full-time af and mf. Not sure if that was what you wanted.
na he's just finding a niggle to substantiate ordering a 150-400 pro lens :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:
 
Menu item A1 in the Cogs and AF+MF switch to on. This gives you full-time af and mf. Not sure if that was what you wanted.

.... Thanks Alby, I'm already set On for AF+MF but it's not active when Tracking is selected on the 100-400mm. I'll check again to see if it's active in Tracking mode with a Pro lens mounted but I think it was.
 
.... Thanks Alby, I'm already set On for AF+MF but it's not active when Tracking is selected on the 100-400mm. I'll check again to see if it's active in Tracking mode with a Pro lens mounted but I think it was.

I have watched some Bird AI reviews and they all(?) say to set C-AF + TR as part of the configuration.

PS tracking in the MK2 and possibly even the MK3 were AFAIK not considered that good???
 
I have watched some Bird AI reviews and they all(?) say to set C-AF + TR as part of the configuration.

PS tracking in the MK2 and possibly even the MK3 were AFAIK not considered that good???

.... Yes for the Bird and other AI options you have to select C-AF + TR as you say but AF+MF can still be On for the MF Ring actions. I am set C-AF+TR[MF] on Fn-lever #2 adjacent to my thumb on Back Button AF. This is perfect and is much easier than using the custom settings C1 etc Mode Dial as some online tutorials suggest.

I understand that the D&T AI options work best with dual processors. Hence Bird AI being an option in the M1X.
 
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I have tended to have this set like this since acquiring the camera so its stood the test of time .. under normal use there is a split second of delay /black out when lifting the camera to your eye . I found out that if you set the EVF auto switch to off the display stays live thus enabling instant lock on to the birds or animals .. its only a split second of difference but it makes the difference between getting or losing a shot/target .

the reason I have posted this I missed two buzzard shots over the weekend that I would normally have got no problem .. so hope this helps ..

it will drain your battery slightly faster as the EVF should now be live but in practice I dont find it a problem

.... That's a great tip Jeff! I had mine set to On1.

Menu > Cog I > EVF Auto Switch > Off

And the good news regarding battery juice is that if you have your live screen turned inwards so the protective back casing is revealed, the live view does automatically switch itself off - Exactly like a fridge door switches off the internal light! I close the live screen while shooting anyway, unless I need it.

This also has the benefit of instantly seeing the same as in the EVF on the Live screen as soon as you open it instead of additional actions to select it.
 
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.... That's a great tip Jeff! I had mine set to On1.

Menu > Cog I > EVF Auto Switch > Off

And the good news regarding battery juice is that if you have your live screen turned inwards so the protective back casing is revealed, the live view does automatically switch itself off - Exactly like a fridge door switches off the internal light! I close the live screen while shooting anyway, unless I need it.

This also has the benefit of instantly seeing the same as in the EVF on the Live screen as soon as you open it instead of additional actions to select it.
If I hadn’t of found that workaround when I changed to Olympus I would probably have given up on the brand by now . It’s a game changer
 
Okay very beginner question coming....

Is this what they call bokah?

(Very happy with this shot though I must say)

100mm, 1/125th sec @ f/5.7, ISO 800, +7/10 ev - cropped in Lr, DeNoise

PC080788-Edit-Edit by Joe Booth, on Flickr
 
Yep but i would have cropped in tighter losing the left hand post and some of the grass at the top
 
Yup, better though perhaps a portrait crop also is a possibility......???

PORTRAIT CROP50695425622_5c62c0f02e_o.jpg

But on balance there is a story with the landscape crop..........................of he is wistfully gazing at the sky waiting for his mate to land on the other post...... ;)
Landscape CROP50695425622_5c62c0f02e_o.jpg
 
Thank you & yeah the portrait does look good too actually, but I must admit I was thinking along the same lines as you with the landscape haha, that I also liked the fact the background adds a bit of story to the image :)

Im just amazed that a shot taken at 100mm can create such a great image after post!... This was the original image below...

PC080788.jpg
 
Just shows what these sensors can actually do .. and joe is just a beginner ,hence the advice to help him well done lad
 
Okay very beginner question coming....

Is this what they call bokah?

(Very happy with this shot though I must say)

100mm, 1/125th sec @ f/5.7, ISO 800, +7/10 ev - cropped in Lr, DeNoise

PC080788-Edit-Edit by Joe Booth, on Flickr
The white bits are called specular highlights, have a read up Joe. They are a bit like marmite, some people like them and others loathe them.
 
If I hadn’t of found that workaround when I changed to Olympus I would probably have given up on the brand by now . It’s a game changer

.... But you are always changing brands Jeff! :ROFLMAO: How many brands is it now? Good experience though.
 
.... But you are always changing brands Jeff! :ROFLMAO: How many brands is it now? Good experience though.
Only a few robin ,variety is the spice of life
 
.... Yes for the Bird and other AI options you have to select C-AF + TR as you say but AF+MF can still be On for the MF Ring actions. I am set C-AF+TR[MF] on Fn-lever #2 adjacent to my thumb on Back Button AF. This is perfect and is much easier than using the custom settings C1 etc Mode Dial as some online tutorials suggest.

I understand that the D&T AI options work best with dual processors. Hence Bird AI being an option in the M1X.


And they say that digital photography is easy....... :naughty:
 
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