Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

mikew said:
After many attempts over the years i tried BBF again (sort of) i used the lens FN button, must admit it felt ok.

P1010161 by electric.mike, on Flickr

P1010144 by electric.mike, on Flickr

P1010070 by electric.mike, on Flickr
Click to expand...

Though have yet to try on BiF but I have also setup BBF but using the lens L-Fn button......just seems kind of logical :). Oh, for the setting of move AF from the shutter button I have selected Mode 4

But l noticed a few things
a) I thought that in common with some/a lot of settings I could do this and the setting would be savable as a Custom selective one.....but it is not, this BBF choice is global.
b) though you can select any of a range of buttons to do the BBF role, by default the AEL/AFL button still does the same job......unless you turn that function or give it another purpose.
 
Re: shutter shock ~ I was anticipating using the mechanical shutter more so as to avoid ( generally) the possible shutter roll ( sorry mental block ~ have recalled the expression right?) effect using electronic shutter.

Though I am only likely to hire it anytime soon I read on Imaging Resource testing of the 300mm f4 Pro exhibited shutter shock effect using anti shutter cured( ?) it.

More thinking required in regard to optimal settings :)
 
Box Brownie said:
Though have yet to try on BiF but I have also setup BBF but using the lens L-Fn button......just seems kind of logical :). Oh, for the setting of move AF from the shutter button I have selected Mode 4

But l noticed a few things
a) I thought that in common with some/a lot of settings I could do this and the setting would be savable as a Custom selective one.....but it is not, this BBF choice is global.
b) though you can select any of a range of buttons to do the BBF role, by default the AEL/AFL button still does the same job......unless you turn that function or give it another purpose.
Click to expand...

Box Brownie said:
Re: shutter shock ~ I was anticipating using the mechanical shutter more so as to avoid ( generally) the possible shutter roll ( sorry mental block ~ have recalled the expression right?) effect using electronic shutter.

Though I am only likely to hire it anytime soon I read on Imaging Resource testing of the 300mm f4 Pro exhibited shutter shock effect using anti shutter cured( ?) it.

More thinking required in regard to optimal settings :)
Click to expand...

The main reason i am trying the lens button is i shoot shutter priority with shutter adjustment on the rear dial,exposure compensation on the front dial,so if i want to adjust the exposure my finger comes off the shutter/focus button, with true BBF adjusting shutter speed would take my thumb off the focusing,If this is during a BIF follow, especialy one coming towards me by the time my finger is back on the button it needs to regain focus.

I use Pro-Capture most of the time so its E shutter anyway.
 
Pete B said:
Been there done that a few times :withstupid:.
Click to expand...

Cagey75 said:
I still forget that with the G80 when using flash! Fired off a bunch of shots today in the garden trying to get off cam flash to work before realising I'd had the camera in ES after shooting against the sun recently.
Click to expand...

Glad it’s not just me! I felt stupid!
 
mikew said:
The main reason i am trying the lens button is i shoot shutter priority with shutter adjustment on the rear dial,exposure compensation on the front dial,so if i want to adjust the exposure my finger comes off the shutter/focus button, with true BBF adjusting shutter speed would take my thumb off the focusing,If this is during a BIF follow, especialy one coming towards me by the time my finger is back on the button it needs to regain focus.

I use Pro-Capture most of the time so its E shutter anyway.
Click to expand...

Mike, thank for your user insight and thinking behind your settings configuration :)

Re: Pro-Capture ~ is this Pro-Capture 'low' and as such what do you find works (in taking control of the number of frames created) for pre-capture number of frames & the frames limit?

mikew said:
Dive,Dive,Dive

View attachment 132166

View attachment 132167

View attachment 132168

View attachment 132169

View attachment 132170
Click to expand...

This scenario is exactly the one I had in mind when I read about Pro-Capture....................great sequence, well caught :)

Deserves a :jaffa: or :jaffa::jaffa:
 
Box Brownie said:
Mike, thank for your user insight and thinking behind your settings configuration :)

Re: Pro-Capture ~ is this Pro-Capture 'low' and as such what do you find works (in taking control of the number of frames created) for pre-capture number of frames & the frames limit?



This scenario is exactly the one I had in mind when I read about Pro-Capture....................great sequence, well caught :)

Deserves a :jaffa: or :jaffa::jaffa:
Click to expand...

Thanks, its pro-capture low and i have 6 pre shutter and 4 post most of the time, i tend to suggest people start with 10 pre and 5 post then reduce it as you find what works with your reaction time.

I edit in photoshop but i do my image culling in Faststone as i find it quick to get through a load of shots, i just go through them once on full screeen and any i want i send to a folder called to edit then dump the rest.
 
mikew said:
Thanks, its pro-capture low and i have 6 pre shutter and 4 post most of the time, i tend to suggest people start with 10 pre and 5 post then reduce it as you find what works with your reaction time.

I edit in photoshop but i do my image culling in Faststone as i find it quick to get through a load of shots, i just go through them once on full screeen and any i want i send to a folder called to edit then dump the rest.
Click to expand...

Thanks :)

You mentioned using Shutter Priority ~ with that diving sequence just what speed was the above & did you use the default 18fps or reduce it? FWIW with my Canon I only occasionally managed the likes of #2 or #3 but that was the exception.................most were like the last or worse just the ripple :lol: :(
 
Box Brownie said:
Thanks :)

You mentioned using Shutter Priority ~ with that diving sequence just what speed was the above & did you use the default 18fps or reduce it? FWIW with my Canon I only occasionally managed the likes of #2 or #3 but that was the exception.................most were like the last or worse just the ripple :LOL: :(
Click to expand...

Its the default frame rate, if you hit the button as it starts to rise in the water you should be somewhere near.

The settings

Exposure Time 0.0003s (1/4000)
Aperture ƒ/4.0
Exposure shutter priority (semi-auto)
ISO equivalent 800 (auto iso)
Exposure Bias -0.70EV
Metering Mode Spot( tied to focus point)
 
mikew said:
Its the default frame rate, if you hit the button as it starts to rise in the water you should be somewhere near.

The settings

Exposure Time 0.0003s (1/4000)
Aperture ƒ/4.0
Exposure shutter priority (semi-auto)
ISO equivalent 800 (auto iso)
Exposure Bias -0.70EV
Metering Mode Spot( tied to focus point)
Click to expand...

:)

With your EM10? Or does your kit list need updating? ;)
 
Last edited:
I have in mind an evening walk this week as fairly sure we have a largish flock of Geese using a lake as their night-time roost.........catch them coming in to land, perhaps???
 
Hi Mike @mikew

Another question to pick your brains?
re: the BiF shots you showed higher up and the diving Coot......................which AF mode C-AF, C-AF & Tracking, S-AF in each case?

FWIW my experimenting so far is that Tracking can be a bit & miss, having said that it may work better with BiF against as uncluttered background as possible but as they drop below a treeline that may cause it to lose its 'tracking lock'? Plus as understand it the larger the subject in the frame the better e.g. a BiF occupying say 1/6 of the frame would be more trackable than if it occupied <1/4 of the frame ???
 
Box Brownie said:
Hi Mike @mikew

Another question to pick your brains?
re: the BiF shots you showed higher up and the diving Coot......................which AF mode C-AF, C-AF & Tracking, S-AF in each case?

FWIW my experimenting so far is that Tracking can be a bit & miss, having said that it may work better with BiF against as uncluttered background as possible but as they drop below a treeline that may cause it to lose its 'tracking lock'? Plus as understand it the larger the subject in the frame the better e.g. a BiF occupying say 1/6 of the frame would be more trackable than if it occupied <1/4 of the frame ???
Click to expand...
Don't use tracking, and get a red dot sight
 
Last edited:
Pete B said:
Don't use tracking, and get a red dot sight
Click to expand...

I have found that Olympus make one and there are other such devices used in sporting/hunting disciplines.....................have you got any links to usage on a camera because it seems that you hold the camera at half arms length. How stable is that, must be missing the point so seek enlightenment :)

TIA
 
Box Brownie said:
I have found that Olympus make one and there are other such devices used in sporting/hunting disciplines.....................have you got any links to usage on a camera because it seems that you hold the camera at half arms length. How stable is that, must be missing the point so seek enlightenment :)

TIA
Click to expand...
Its simple, you cant do clay pigeon shooting with a sniper rifle, "Pull" umm where is it. You cant track BIF with a 300mm lens unless they're coming at you or going away.
The red dot is as simple as once you have aligned it to your lens, just keep the dot on the subject and it will be center frame. It's not a sniper scope, use it with both eyes open, and as to how stable, well, If you're worried about stability, then your shutter speed is too low for BIF

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Reflex-Red-Green-Dot-Sight-4-Patterned-Reticle-for-Camera-Shooting-Hot-ES/302809474059?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=2&asc=52543&meid=8b440c9cb59b4e9ab7b7fc68de4037c3&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=12&sd=322453751862&itm=302809474059&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Worth a punt at that price ;)
 
Last edited:
Pete B said:
Its simple, you cant do clay pigeon shooting with a sniper rifle, "Pull" umm where is it. You cant track BIF with a 300mm lens unless they're coming at you or going away.
The red dot is as simple as once you have aligned it to your lens, just keep the dot on the subject and it will be center frame. It's not a sniper scope, use it with both eyes open, and as to how stable, well, If you're worried about stability, then your shutter speed is too low for BIF

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Reflex-Red-Green-Dot-Sight-4-Patterned-Reticle-for-Camera-Shooting-Hot-ES/302809474059?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=2&asc=52543&meid=8b440c9cb59b4e9ab7b7fc68de4037c3&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=12&sd=322453751862&itm=302809474059&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Worth a punt at that price ;)
Click to expand...
Is that the one that you use?
 
Box Brownie said:
Hi Mike @mikew

Another question to pick your brains?
re: the BiF shots you showed higher up and the diving Coot......................which AF mode C-AF, C-AF & Tracking, S-AF in each case?

FWIW my experimenting so far is that Tracking can be a bit & miss, having said that it may work better with BiF against as uncluttered background as possible but as they drop below a treeline that may cause it to lose its 'tracking lock'? Plus as understand it the larger the subject in the frame the better e.g. a BiF occupying say 1/6 of the frame would be more trackable than if it occupied <1/4 of the frame ???
Click to expand...

For the EM1MK11 i use C-AF with out tracking, its different for other models, most of the time single center point sometimes a center group of focus points.
I dont think a red dot finder is the answer, you need to get in tune with your camera, i could not work in daylight with my camera at arms length, a bird coming towards you is the most difficult not because you cant keep the focus point on it, but because its changing distance possibly faster then the camera can refocus, this is the ideal situation for pro capture as the sample below.

P6130091 by electric.mike, on Flickr

For birds flying across your fov its just practice and getting the feel for your gear.

P5060108 by electric.mike, on Flickr

P5080127 by electric.mike, on Flickr
 
My EM1MK11 had an off moment, have to see if it happens again.

error.JPG
 
Hi Guys, just a quickie please...

Just purchased the E-M1 MkII yesterday to go along side my G9. Super exited but need a link please to download the online manual via pdf.

Thanks

Andy
 
mikew said:
For the EM1MK11 i use C-AF with out tracking, its different for other models, most of the time single center point sometimes a center group of focus points.
I dont think a red dot finder is the answer, you need to get in tune with your camera, i could not work in daylight with my camera at arms length, a bird coming towards you is the most difficult not because you cant keep the focus point on it, but because its changing distance possibly faster then the camera can refocus, this is the ideal situation for pro capture as the sample below.

P6130091 by electric.mike, on Flickr

For birds flying across your fov its just practice and getting the feel for your gear.

P5060108 by electric.mike, on Flickr

P5080127 by electric.mike, on Flickr
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike, extra insight always welcome.

BiF always challenging.....looking forward to trying to "get it right" with the new kit, in some ways I had reached my physical limit with wielding my Canon gear with BiF, so very much hoping my keeper rate improves :)



mikew said:
My EM1MK11 had an off moment, have to see if it happens again.

View attachment 132220
Click to expand...

Hmm! odd for sure, how many shots in total on yours to date? Hopefully just a glitch in either the system or in writing to the SD card!
 
Last edited:
Gandalf said:
Hi Guys, just a quickie please...

Just purchased the E-M1 MkII yesterday to go along side my G9. Super exited but need a link please to download the online manual via pdf.

Thanks

Andy
Click to expand...

Hi Andy @Gandalf

Just a heads up.

I bought the dual zoom kit and discovered the firmware was at v1.3 this dates between July to December 2017 so older stock (not that that matters) but firmware is easy to update.....mine is now v2.1

Enjoy the EM1mk2, it is by the most sophisticated camera I have had the pleasure to buy, very much 'a computer with a lens attached' a learning curve for sure :)
 
BB... noted the firmware and updated already. I’m used to the Olympus menu system having had em5 and having the Pen-f. I agree a possible steep learning curve but I’m up for a challenge.
 
Mike
Iv had dead frame's like this it's happened twice but only 2 frames and 3 frames I just put it down to a glitch
Rob.
 
GyRob said:
Mike
Iv had dead frame's like this it's happened twice but only 2 frames and 3 frames I just put it down to a glitch
Rob.
Click to expand...

Thanks Rob, looking at the time stamp its one pro-capture burst, the only thing that concerns me a little is i run auto iso @ 3200 or 6400 these frames exposed @ 320 and 400, still not going to worry got a lot of warranty left on it. :D
 
What is that symbol in the viewfinder of the E-M1 MK2???

I cannot think exactly what I was doing but have noticed on occasion in the viewfinder at the top left-hand corner where there is the battery level symbol, then as appropriate the flashing "card write" symbol.

Just to the right of that position I have seen a symbol come on briefly that is circular and for want of a better description it looks like 2 arrows chasing each other.

I have looked in the manual but cannot find it or any reference to such a symbol ~ has anyone spotted this symbol & what does it signify???

TIA :)
 
Pete B said:
WiFi?
Click to expand...

No, I found WiFi seemed to be on by default so made sure to turn it of......and the symbol is in approx that position though.

FWIW the WiFi symbol is actually "WiFi"
 
Box Brownie said:
What is that symbol in the viewfinder of the E-M1 MK2???

I cannot think exactly what I was doing but have noticed on occasion in the viewfinder at the top left-hand corner where there is the battery level symbol, then as appropriate the flashing "card write" symbol.

Just to the right of that position I have seen a symbol come on briefly that is circular and for want of a better description it looks like 2 arrows chasing each other.

I have looked in the manual but cannot find it or any reference to such a symbol ~ has anyone spotted this symbol & what does it signify???

TIA :)
Click to expand...

I think i get it when its focusing in pro-capture before i press the shutter
 
mikew said:
I think i get it when its focusing in pro-capture before i press the shutter
Click to expand...

Ah! makes sense because in the main that is what I have doing......making my Custom settings for use with Pro Capture :)

Simplythebeast said:
It is the ProCapture symbol.


View attachment 132288
Click to expand...

Bingo! That is it, and is nicely logical as in "rolling ready to record" (so to speak) have a :jaffa: :) . Though as I say, the manual makes no reference that I could see about it .

Where did you find that page???
 
Last edited:
The reason the manual doesnt refernce it is that the symbol was introduced in the latest firmware upgrade.
 
Simplythebeast said:
The reason the manual doesnt refernce it is that the symbol was introduced in the latest firmware upgrade.
Click to expand...

.......found it...... actually the manual does refer to it but fails to index it!

It is mentioned in Section 10 (more like an addenda as it is for Firmware update details).......you would thought as they have a table of contents that mentioned section 10 they could have amended the index to add it ~ c'est la vie & live and learn :)
 
I'm a bit confused over live composite mode, well whats new there, despite watching a few youtube videos. I know how to set it up but its the initial exposure settings which confuses me. Say Im looking to photo a nighttime scene with moving traffic, classic long exposure, do I set the initial exposure value on the scene to expose correctly? Assume thats 20s at f8, what setting do I then choose in the Composite menu for each individual capture? I'm guessing its not 20s, or is it. Help
 
jakeblu said:
I'm a bit confused over live composite mode, well whats new there, despite watching a few youtube videos. I know how to set it up but its the initial exposure settings which confuses me. Say Im looking to photo a nighttime scene with moving traffic, classic long exposure, do I set the initial exposure value on the scene to expose correctly? Assume thats 20s at f8, what setting do I then choose in the Composite menu for each individual capture? I'm guessing its not 20s, or is it. Help
Click to expand...

It's a while since I've done this but you're right. Your initial settings are indeed to expose the scene 'correctly'. What are the other options beyond that called?

I'm sorry I'm not more help but it's a while since I had an E-M5ii so memory hazy. It's worth perevering though. I think it's one of the best innovations on the Olympus cameras. Shot this one ages ago.

Rush Hour.jpg by G.A.D, on Flickr
 
jakeblu said:
I'm a bit confused over live composite mode, well whats new there, despite watching a few youtube videos. I know how to set it up but its the initial exposure settings which confuses me. Say Im looking to photo a nighttime scene with moving traffic, classic long exposure, do I set the initial exposure value on the scene to expose correctly? Assume thats 20s at f8, what setting do I then choose in the Composite menu for each individual capture? I'm guessing its not 20s, or is it. Help
Click to expand...
I've never done the live composite but from what you don't have individual captures per se after the initial exposure. It's one long exposure but you can see it unfold in front of your very eyes, and the time setting is for the refresh rate to see how the scene is progressing. Therefore, if the scene progresses pretty quickly then you'll want a quick refresh rate so that you don't overexpose, but if the scene is unlikely to change quickly you may set it to 'update' every 10-20s.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top