Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

derekG said:
Am I right in thinking I cant use manual focus on my Panasonic 100/300 on a em1 body, no matter how I try I cannot get it to work?
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I could do it on my EM5-II so would imagine you can. IIRC I just set focus to MF in the SCP. I don't think there's a switch on the lens itself (I sold the lens a while back)
 
Thanks for reply, tried scp,no switch on lens,tried every setting I could think of but the lens focus ring still wont move and it is a relatively new lens works fine in auto just wont focus manually
 
derekG said:
Thanks for reply, tried scp,no switch on lens,tried every setting I could think of but the lens focus ring still wont move and it is a relatively new lens works fine in auto just wont focus manually
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Have you tried the lens on another body? Does the focus ring move when off the body?
 
Hmmmmm so went out this afternoon to the local windmill and try the 10stop ND, as it was I ended up not using it properly and tried using live composite and got several shots but they all show a weird artifact like a badly photoshopped drag slides been used?? Is this due to the live composite Im assuming??stevington windmill test by Donnie Canning, on Flickr
 
Donnie said:
Hmmmmm so went out this afternoon to the local windmill and try the 10stop ND, as it was I ended up not using it properly and tried using live composite and got several shots but they all show a weird artifact like a badly photoshopped drag slides been used?? Is this due to the live composite Im assuming??stevington windmill test by Donnie Canning, on Flickr
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Yes, because it averages over every exposure time you have set so this will be every 5 or 10 seconds (or whatever exposure you used for live composite). Live bulb might have worked better.
 
Not with the added light painting it wouldn't :-/ After some more googling there's a theory it's due to the resetting of the shutter in the millisecond(s) between each composite shot too. Also, apparantly more prevalent in daytime shots than night time.
 
Donnie said:
Not with the added light painting it wouldn't :-/ After some more googling there's a theory it's due to the resetting of the shutter in the millisecond(s) between each composite shot too. Also, apparantly more prevalent in daytime shots than night time.
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It is obviously the gaps in the exposure causing it and it is an interseting effect
For this shot bulb or live bulb was the normal way to shoot and avoid the stutters and most likely for light painting too as gaps would appear in the effects you were laying down (this is a short expsoure for light painting).

Edit to clarify
This appears to be 50 or so 2.5 second exposures it is underexpsosed quite a bit (the exif does not say how many). The camera has blended all your images to make this one.

For light painting this can be used to build up effects on multiple 30 second exposures for instance with only the new highligts being added to the final shot.
 
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Donnie said:
Not with the added light painting it wouldn't :-/ After some more googling there's a theory it's due to the resetting of the shutter in the millisecond(s) between each composite shot too. Also, apparantly more prevalent in daytime shots than night time.
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That's interesting, I'll have to watch out for it. Thanks for sharing.
 
It will work as long as light is always 'added' to the scene. Which is the opposite of what is happening in your sky. Parts of the sky get darker as a cloud moves into the previously lighter area.
 
The only other way i guess of achieving this is likely to be photoshop and an nd filter :-( so an exposure with an nd64/1000 for the movement, then some shorter exposures with added lights on the windmill then blending the two i suppose.
 
Donnie said:
The only other way i guess of achieving this is likely to be photoshop and an nd filter :-( so an exposure with an nd64/1000 for the movement, then some shorter exposures with added lights on the windmill then blending the two i suppose.
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Giving it at least an extra stop of exposure in camera and lifting the shadows would help IMO

Not my shot 21 2015- by Alf Branch, on Flickr
 
Yes, I know :) but i wasn't posting for critique, though it's appreciated, I only posted to see if anyone knew the reason for the artifacts in the sky :beer:It was straight out of camera.
 
tried again tonight just in the back garden, the composite modes great at startrails it seems but this was set at 60 seconds per exposure so I think it only does this for so long as after a while the trails didn't seem to get any longer and this was about an hours worth?

startrails test by Donnie Canning, on Flickr
 
Well done don, around the north too...
 
Just made the switch from a Pentax K-r to an Olympus E-M10 Mark II with the 14-42 & 40-150mm lens, mounting the 40-150mm is fine, but the 14-42 is extremely stiff, a lot of effort is required to mount the lens. Have I got a faulty lens?

Many thanks
 
I've not had any lens, Olympus or otherwise that is harder to fit. They all seem the same. So you might need to change it.

Check visually for a bent or out of position part. Proud or missing screw. Compare side by side.
 
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I've seen it said quite a few times that lenses can be hard to mount but slack off ofter a while, this was true of my 45mm lens on my EM10 which is fine now.

Definitely check for protrusions etc but also give it a few goes.
 
Von Ryan said:
Just made the switch from a Pentax K-r to an Olympus E-M10 Mark II with the 14-42 & 40-150mm lens, mounting the 40-150mm is fine, but the 14-42 is extremely stiff, a lot of effort is required to mount the lens. Have I got a faulty lens?

Many thanks
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I don't recall my 14-42mm being particularly stiff, but I do find the olly lenses stiffer than any other brand I've used.
 
Yeah good call mine are all easy like my wife lol
 
279 is really cheap. Who are askdirect? Have you used them?
 
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That's what I paid for mine but I got mine from eglobal store on evil bay.
 
Oh no, I've been playing with my em1 without the manual and I've got it stuck in MF mode! Can't change it through menu, button on top or in settings mode! I've had some old MF lenses on it. Any suggestions?

I'm not having much luck, I broke my tripod last night too!

Any suggestions?
 
rugeyes said:
Oh no, I've been playing with my em1 without the manual and I've got it stuck in MF mode! Can't change it through menu, button on top or in settings mode! I've had some old MF lenses on it. Any suggestions?

I'm not having much luck, I broke my tripod last night too!

Any suggestions?
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All or just one lens like the 12-40?

Remember the push pull mf clutch.

Or it is in the SCP
 
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Got to love a Boxing Day sale, 40-150 2.8 Pro + 1.4x TC for £899 :)

All sold out now, was an Amazon Lightning Deal.
 
I keep thinking about that lens - at the moment i have the 40-150r and the 75-300ii both of which would have to sold to enable me to buy the pro but then I'd lose 180mm at the long end and would I notice that much IQ improvement ?


Aaaaarrrrggggghhhhhhhhhh :banghead:
 
ukaskew said:
Got to love a Boxing Day sale, 40-150 2.8 Pro + 1.4x TC for £899 :)

All sold out now, was an Amazon Lightning Deal.
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Still available
 
Link lens sale or are they gone now?
 
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