Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

littleted said:
Anybody got any good settings for the Live elements of the camera for fireworks?Thanks
Click to expand...

Fireworks are all about shutter speed and timing. You don't want to freeze the action too much or expose for too long, so it's about finding that sweet spot where you get some nice explosion trails and a bit of a feeling of motion. I can never remember my exact settings because I always ad lib on the night (maybe around 1sec?), but Olympus make this so easy to do with live composite etc, and displays normally last long enough for you to lock in your settings before the finale.
 
i used live composite a few times last month and for some reason, several were OOF. Not sure why so I need another go to confirm it was the numpty behind the camera
 
my light painting was set at 1.6 when i press the button which seemed ok for the activity, maybe i,ll try 1 second and say f11 so i capture it all. i know at f2.8 the bedroom was lit more but the sensor picked it up a lot faster
 
The sky is amazing. Well captured
 
As much as I love my EM1 I am getting increasingly frustrated with how bad the sensor is for long exposure shooting (I'm talking minutes rather than seconds) By all accounts the em5 mk2 is much better in this respect but what would I be losing if I swapped camera other than ergonomics?
 
milster said:
As much as I love my EM1 I am getting increasingly frustrated with how bad the sensor is for long exposure shooting (I'm talking minutes rather than seconds) By all accounts the em5 mk2 is much better in this respect but what would I be losing if I swapped camera other than ergonomics?
Click to expand...
C-AF performance and PDAF.
 
rugeyes said:
Is the C-AF good enough to track children?
Click to expand...
Dunno, don't have any ;) I've shot ducks, squirrels and blue tits with it but they weren't moving fast ;)
 
I've had mixed success with shooting the kids with c-af. I don't think it's too bad as long as you don't try the fill the frame
 
I don't use caf too much and the kids are getting a bit older now so it's not like I'm chasing them around any more....I'd like to own both but can't really justify it...might have to investigate further as it's only the long exposure problem which is making me hold on to my nikon gear
 
What's going wrong with it Gary ? I've read about hot pixels and some noise ?
 
Yeah, it's terrible. Don't get me wrong, I'm not much of a pixel peepers and I don't mind a bit of noise but the results are very very dissapointing. I'll post an image tomorrow to show what I mean. Yes you can use noise reduction in camera but it doubles your exposure time to not much benefit. I know I'm not going to get the same results of a bigger sensor but I expect more, especially from a camera that has great long exposure features.
 
Thanks guys, I'm still swaying between both but it looks like I'm leaning towards the EM1
 
Being interested in your shots @milster - I used to take 6 minute exposures with the d7000 with one or 2 hot pixels. I don't do in camera NR but I'm thinking about getting a 10 stop sooooo...
 
Looks like I need to turn NR on then :eek: .....but i assume LR can assist in a similar way ?
 
Last edited:
Yes, that's what I'm getting, same as the examples in those links. If you then need to lift the shadows the problem just gets worse. The noise/colour noise reduction in lightroom barely touches it. I think in camera noise reduction works an a different way by taking a dark frame then detecting the hot pixels and effectively blocking them out.
 
Gordon Laing, in that article, says the noise reduction mode is not needed on long exposures on the EM5ii. I think I shall disabled it. As it could make you miss a shot. Has anyone compared it? On versus off?
 
Last edited:
milster said:
I don't use caf too much and the kids are getting a bit older now so it's not like I'm chasing them around any more....I'd like to own both but can't really justify it...might have to investigate further as it's only the long exposure problem which is making me hold on to my nikon gear
Click to expand...
TBH the EM5-II can't hold a candle to my D750 in long exposure (and low light/high ISO) so there's no way I'd consider ditching the Nikon. @milster I guess you're not happy using two lots of kit and wanting one camera for everything? Have you thought about waiting for the EM1-II?
 
Last edited:
Yeah, that's the problem snerkler, I'm not overly keen on running two systems. I know I'm going to have to make sacrifices by trying to get a one fits all but it's one step too far with the noise in the em1 at the moment. Like you say, it is something I've considered waiting to see what happens with the em1 mk2.
 
Last edited:
Seems a good place to ask this:
I currently have an E-PL5 which I bought to 'try out' M43.
Converted completely now so obviously started looking at the likes of the E-M10 or E-M5 MkII, but I keep holding back as I cannot really say what they actually give me in real terms above my current body?
As they all have the same sensor are there any image quality benefits?
I shoot mainly static subjects, such as cars at shows , or flowers and occasional landscapes, so things like autofocus are not high on the list.

Not trying to argue for or against a newer body, just after some feedback as to what I would gain in real terms rather than just a tick list of specs!
Yes, I am sure there is a certain amount of GAS too :)

If it makes any difference, future lenses I want are the Olympus 7-14mm and possibly at some point the 40-150 F2.8
 
OlyPaul said:
My granddaughter was moving at about 5pmh towards me, used focus tracking and face detect, shot at f2 on the 75mm f1.8 so a very narrow focus point. It can be a hit and miss
Click to expand...

Thanks for that. At the moment it's certainly more miss than hit with my E-M5. although I'm sure my kids move about more when they see the camera come out :-)
 
Ajf350d said:
Seems a good place to ask this:
I currently have an E-PL5 which I bought to 'try out' M43.
Converted completely now so obviously started looking at the likes of the E-M10 or E-M5 MkII, but I keep holding back as I cannot really say what they actually give me in real terms above my current body?
As they all have the same sensor are there any image quality benefits?
I shoot mainly static subjects, such as cars at shows , or flowers and occasional landscapes, so things like autofocus are not high on the list.

Not trying to argue for or against a newer body, just after some feedback as to what I would gain in real terms rather than just a tick list of specs!
Yes, I am sure there is a certain amount of GAS too :)

If it makes any difference, future lenses I want are the Olympus 7-14mm and possibly at some point the 40-150 F2.8
Click to expand...

What you will gain is an EVF, extra controls and form factor. How many extra controls you get depends on the model but they all offer something extra.

I like the fact that image quality isn't really a deciding factor in m4/3 cameras as it makes you look at the true functionality of the camera which is really where the extra value isa anyway.
 
Andrew both the em5ii and EM1 get that new firmware in November which give a whole raft of new features, focus bracketing being one which can help you with flowers and macro, giving greater control on depth of field.

The 5 and the 1 can be bought for near the same price and once the firmware comes out there kinda on par with each other, the EM1 has the slight edge as it should as it's the best one.

Em1 takes the. Old FT lens also from the old world, I think the 5 can do this but needs an adaptor.
If I was in your shoes I'd probably look at formfactor and go with that..EM1 better in the hands with the grip but larger.

I have the 5II
 
littleted said:
Andrew both the em5ii and EM1 get that new firmware in November which give a whole raft of new features, focus bracketing being one which can help you with flowers and macro, giving greater control on depth of field.

The 5 and the 1 can be bought for near the same price and once the firmware comes out there kinda on par with each other, the EM1 has the slight edge as it should as it's the best one.

Em1 takes the. Old FT lens also from the old world, I think the 5 can do this but needs an adaptor.
If I was in your shoes I'd probably look at formfactor and go with that..EM1 better in the hands with the grip but larger.

I have the 5II
Click to expand...

They both need an adapter for ft lenses.
 
Thanks, was there any benefit on the EM1 with the old lens I was sure when I bought it the EM1 did something diff with the,old lens?
 
littleted said:
Em1 takes the. Old FT lens also from the old world, I think the 5 can do this but needs an adaptor.
Click to expand...
They both need an adaptor. And both work with the FT range. But the EM-1 has PDAF focussing which has advantages when using the FT lenses.
 
HI all,

As some of you may know, I've recently received my new Olympus 7-14 F2.8 Pro from Panamoz, and have been giving it it's first workout. I have to say the lens itself is a real thing of beauty and super smooth, but maybe I'm expecting too much from it ?

I've been looking at some test images of mine and @ 7mm and F2.8-F4 the extreme edges seem quite soft and never really sharpen up ? Am I just expecting too much ?

The centre of the frame is tack sharp, but just edges off to soft at the extreme edges (left side seems slightly softer than the right side). If I stop down to F5.6 things improve quite a bit but never really match the centre for sharpness.

Is this just a feature of the extreme nature of this lens that objects at the extreme edges are distorted more and therefore never truly sharp, but if that's the case, I don't see it as bad looking over my photos from my old Panasonic 7-14 shot wide open @ F4 (which I'm now just a tiny bit regretting selling) ?

Could there be a chance that I have a decentered lens ?

I just seem to recall my Nikon 14-24 F2.8 was also never tack sharp at the extreme edges @ F2.8 (although I can't currently locate any of my photos with this lens wide open) so was thinking maybe it's just a feature of super wide fast lenses. Does anyone else on here have the 7-14 F2.8 Pro and can comment on theirs please before I contact Panamoz ?
 
Last edited:
Sootchucker said:
HI all,

As some of you may know, I've recently received my new Olympus 7-14 F2.8 Pro from Panamoz, and have been giving it it's first workout. I have to say the lens itself is a real thing of beauty and super smooth, but maybe I'm expecting too much from it ?

I've been looking at some test images of mine and @ 7mm and F2.8-F4 the extreme edges seem quite soft and never really sharpen up ? Am I just expecting too much ?

The centre of the frame is tack sharp, but just edges off to soft at the extreme edges (left side seems slightly softer than the right side). If I stop down to F5.6 things improve quite a bit but never really match the centre for sharpness.

Is this just a feature of the extreme nature of this lens that objects at the extreme edges are distorted more and therefore never truly sharp, but if that's the case, I don't see it as bad looking over my photos from my old Panasonic 7-14 shot wide open @ F4 (which I'm now just a tiny bit regretting selling) ?

Could there be a chance that I have a decentered lens ?

I just seem to recall my Nikon 14-24 F2.8 was also never tack sharp at the extreme edges @ F2.8 (although I can't currently locate any of my photos with this lens wide open) so was thinking maybe it's just a feature of super wide fast lenses. Does anyone else on here have the 7-14 F2.8 Pro and can comment on theirs please before I contact Panamoz ?
Click to expand...

I don't have the Oly 7-14 but have both the Panny and Nikon versions. I use my Nikon daily and the Panny pretty regularly and neither is super sharp in the extreme corners at any aperture. I came to the conclusion (after a bit of research) that it's just an inherent problem with super wide lenses and so It's never bothered me since. But, much like you, it was something that I'd noticed when I first bought both lenses and wondered whether I'd been sent a duff one.

I'm just deciding whether to sell my Panny and get the Oly but having just bought the 40-150 Pro (which is an awesome lens) I have a feeling that I'd have my work cut out trying to convince the missus. I've watched some reviews on YT and the 7-14 pro seems like another fantastic lens from Oly.
 
Contact Olympus? I'm sure they'd take it back to check if you are worried?
 
rugeyes said:
Contact Olympus? I'm sure they'd take it back to check if you are worried?
Click to expand...

I would except it's from Panamoz, so would have to go back to them. I might just contact them and see what they say.
 
Xenon54 said:
Ha, Yes. True.

I actually kinda get round this problem by shooting in Manual with auto ISO. I do this primarily because it's often more important to control aperture and shutter than worry where in the ISO 200-1600 range I am. However, if I spot the ISO creeping up to unacceptable values, it's only one to two clicks of the control wheel to open up the aperture or slow the shutter a bit. The camera will always pick the minimum ISO possible..
Click to expand...
Is there a way to set an over or under expose +/- with this technique?
 
littleted said:
Andrew both the em5ii and EM1 get that new firmware in November which give a whole raft of new features, focus bracketing being one which can help you with flowers and macro, giving greater control on depth of field.

The 5 and the 1 can be bought for near the same price and once the firmware comes out there kinda on par with each other, the EM1 has the slight edge as it should as it's the best one.

Em1 takes the. Old FT lens also from the old world, I think the 5 can do this but needs an adaptor.
If I was in your shoes I'd probably look at formfactor and go with that..EM1 better in the hands with the grip but larger.

I have the 5II
Click to expand...
Thank you for the reply, and the others who posted comments.
It helped point out a few things I had not thought of, especially the idea of focus bracketing. I guess I could then use that feature with stacking software? As you suggest I think that would be a big plus for my flower photos, especially some of the close ups.
The ability to use older lenses is probably a lower priority as I went to M43 for the size, which also makes me think the E-M5 II might be the best option as the E-M1 is bigger still I think? Also, any rumours of a new E-M1? Would be annoying if I went with that and a new one came out just after! It is the oldest of the family now?

On the other hand I seem to remember now that PD AF would help with any lens in terms of accuracy when tracking - not something I would use often, but perhaps worth going for to future proof.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top