Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

But the little girl not going stay in that plane all the time ha ha but going learn it and give it a go.

Before I decide what I do with the gear
 
Lindsay D said:
Zone focusing is quite easy once you get the hang of it, and it can be quite fast and intuitive. I usually don't bother using manual focus, because I'm often in a hurry, I will simply autofocus quickly on an area where my subject is likely to cross, keeping my finger on the button I recompose and wait, then click.

I think trying to take shots of moving things indoors is pushing it to be honest, irrespective of your equipment, it's often technically impossible. I'm afraid you need good light or a big enough belt a flash to freeze motion. Indoors I would be inclined to concentrate on static imagery where atmosphere is more important, and leave the action stuff for outside in bright light. That stands, irrespective of which camera you're using.
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Thanks that sounds easier to do will try that :)

Are you saying any camera can be hard indoor even the 7d I can't honestly remember ifi managed it as I never took it out of bag as much as I've done with the OMD that how much I've got back into photography when I got the OMD.
 
rookies said:
But the little girl not going stay in that plane all the time ha ha but going learn it and give it a go.

Before I decide what I do with the gear
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No she won't, but you can move as well to try and maintain a relative distance away from her.

Do use the Dofmasters link in that last article I pointed you to, to work out how much leeway you have in DoF, so when you will have her in acceptable sharpness.

Good Luck !!
 
savvy249 said:
No she won't, but you can move as well to try and maintain a relative distance away from her.

Do use the Dofmasters link in that last article I pointed you to, to work out how much leeway you have in DoF, so when you will have her in acceptable sharpness.

Good Luck !!
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Thank you for your help and tips will try it all tmr :) it fine with flash as expected but want be happy before buying bigger flash to bounce.

Thank you to Lindsay too will try and master it :)
 
Thanks Lindsay. What noise reduction and filter u set at. Me is auto and standard at moment
 
Lindsay D said:
Noise filter off, noise reduction either low or off.
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Noise reduction only got off on or auto. It filter that got low off standard high hmmm
 
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rookies said:
Noise reduction only got off on or auto. It filter that got low off standard high hmmm
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Looks like I got them the wrong way round, but you get the idea. You might have to apply a small amount of NR when processing but that's better than allowing the camera to overly smooth the details at high ISO. With good glass the OMD holds detail and colour brilliantly well.
 
So I guess the correct way is Filter OFF and NR either ON or Off. Is that right? Or the other way round?

Sorry
 
Andrew, nice image, composition, and B&W conversion - and at ISO3200 :thumbs:

That O45 certainly produces some sharp images.
 
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rookies said:
So I guess the correct way is Filter OFF and NR either ON or Off. Is that right? Or the other way round?

Sorry
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Andrew there's no right or wrong way. Just do what works best for your tastes. Try various combinations and see what you like. If you're not comfortable doing noise reduction in software then you can let the camera do most of it instead.
 
savvy249 said:
Andrew, nice image, composition, and B&W conversion. :thumbs:

That O45 certainly produces some sharp images.
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Yes it such a fantastic lens for doing those sort of shots :) Not for the little one yet thou :lol:
 
rookies said:
Yes it such a fantastic lens for doing those sort of shots :) Not for the little one yet thou :lol:
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The O45 is a bit long for chasing a little one around in confined spaces indoors. Have you tried using the P20, if you have it?
 
savvy249 said:
The O45 is a bit long for chasing a little one around in confined spaces indoors. Have you tried using the P20, if you have it?
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I think that might be my problem. I have tried the kit lens but aperture wont go low enough to get the shutter. I have not got the 20mm and would like to have it buy afraid of buying one and still not happy and ended up selling the whole gear and going back to Dslr. I rather not go back though as the OMD been out of the bag every day whilst the Dslr was hardly out as fed up of the size
 
rookies said:
I think that might be my problem. I have tried the kit lens but aperture wont go low enough to get the shutter. I have not got the 20mm and would like to have it buy afraid of buying one and still not happy and ended up selling the whole gear and going back to Dslr. I rather not go back though as the OMD been out of the bag every day whilst the Dslr was hardly out as fed up of the size
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Can you rent one to try?

I know there are lens rental companies, but I've never used them, nor know whether they cover M4/3 lenses.
 
Easy solution lend me yours ha ha ha...

Rental not always cheap to be honest I use to rent Canon Lens when I needed something was about £60 a week
 
If your after 250+ shutter speeds indoors your likely too need Iso 6400 i just tried my 20mm in the kitchen on admittedly on my GX1 though using f1.7 and it is going too Iso 6400.
 
OMD wanted to go to 12800 when I was trying to do it earlier... HMMM that with the 45.=mm 1.8
 
Thinking flogging it all and getting a Canon 5D MKII second hand
 
Lindsay D said:
Why?
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I keep asking myself why ha ha to get images of my daughter easier or wont it make any different at all.. Will it get AF lock and easier with the 5D MKII?

Or come on someone tell me I am being STUPID :bonk::bonk::bonk::bonk: I dont mind :lol:

I think the reason being I not used the 7D much so I prob thinking the 7D was mile better than the OMD is performing for me but prob hardly any difference. Which I had it here to try now ha ha
 
Lindsay D said:
You need to add light Andrew, or go outside. It doesn't matter what cameras you own, the laws of physics are the same unfortunately. It takes quite a lot of light to get a usable shutter speed for moving subjects.
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But I am sure the 5D II would be able to take pictures at a lower ISO than the OMD is doing and that expected since it a Full Frame but what is it AF like thou. Ive still the 100mm Macro L Lens here that Ive not sold yet
 
rookies said:
But I am sure the 5D II would be able to take pictures at a lower ISO than the OMD is doing and that expected since it a Full Frame but what is it AF like thou. Ive still the 100mm Macro L Lens here that Ive not sold yet
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No, it can't take the same picture at a lower ISO (that's to do with lens maximum aperture) but it can take pictures at a slightly higher ISO given the size of the sensor. Like I said the problem is the environment so why not think about ways to add light instead. That's much nicer than relying on very high ISO values.
 
Lindsay D said:
No, it can't take the same picture at a lower ISO (that's to do with lens maximum aperture) but it can take pictures at a slightly higher ISO given the size of the sensor. Like I said the problem is the environment so why not think about ways to add light instead. That's much nicer than relying on very high ISO values.
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So if I had a 5D MKII and the OMD with the setting the same ie Aperture at 2.8 would the ISO Still need to be the same I would of though 5D would handle better since it fullFrame letting in more light
 
rookies said:
So if I had a 5D MKII and the OMD with the setting the same ie Aperture at 2.8 would the ISO Still need to be the same I would of though 5D would handle better since it fullFrame letting in more light
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At any given aperture you could push the MkII slightly higher on the ISO, therefore getting a slightly higher shutter speed. But that won't help you much if you're trying to get movement shots indoors, chances are your shutter speed will still be too slow and you will still be at high ISO values which is generally undesirable. I shoot indoors a lot and I use top of the line equipment - but the simple fact is that the subject either has to be perfectly still, lit, or more lit if they are moving.
 
Ref zone focusing: it's a lot more straightforward with manual lenses with a proper distance scale on them. I'm not even sure how you'd do it with focus-by-wire lenses which most (all, excepting the obvious like the Voightlander?) native m43 lenses seem to be.
 
Lindsay D said:
At any given aperture you could push the MkII slightly higher on the ISO, therefore getting a slightly higher shutter speed. But that won't help you much if you're trying to get movement shots indoors, chances are your shutter speed will still be too slow and you will still be at high ISO values which is generally undesirable. I shoot indoors a lot and I use top of the line equipment - but the simple fact is that the subject either has to be perfectly still, lit, or more lit if they are moving.
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Thank you for this information. What I think I will do is wait for such a nice day get the little one out and try it outside :) Prob a best option really isnt it ha ha

But why would i need to push the 5D slightly higher than the OMD??
 
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I have both the 5D2 and the OMD, the OMD will grab focus quicker initially but the 5D2 is better with a moving subject (more so outdoors).. I tend too use the OMD much more i lent my friend my 24-70 F2.8L and i've been picking it up for the last 3 weeks lol so that shows i don't use mine much.. also most of my photos are of my young kids dashing about or days out.

I don't take loads of them running around indoors as my house doesn't get much sunlight in the living room and the lights in our living room are dim on average so very limited light, I've started trying learn off camera flash stuff with umbrella etc: so maybe that's a good way too go too get that extra light needed indoors and some good child photos :)
 
Throttle said:
I have both the 5D2 and the OMD, the OMD will grab focus quicker initially but the 5D2 is better with a moving subject (more so outdoors).. I tend too use the OMD much more i lent my friend my 24-70 F2.8L and i've been picking it up for the last 3 weeks lol so that shows i don't use mine much.. also most of my photos are of my young kids dashing about or days out.

I don't take loads of them running around indoors as my house doesn't get much sunlight in the living room and the lights in our living room are dim on average so very limited light, I've started trying learn off camera flash stuff with umbrella etc: so maybe that's a good way too go too get that extra light needed indoors and some good child photos :)
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Could you possibly tell me how you get images of your kids outdoor if running please what settings and shutter you using. Any sample images be great if that ok if not I do understand :)

You want another OMD lol swap your 5D for it ha ha

I dont mean my daughter runs around indoor she moves here head that kind of movement and it hard to get it sharp
 
Outdoors moving fast as he's on his scooter and for a kid he does move fast on it ..Its not best example as i actually brought some of details from shadows as sun was behind him so casted a shadow in front of him, Still it is it focus and moving (took by pre focusing a spot then waiting till he approches nearby then holding the shutter as he passes by)



Outdoors on holiday on a kids quad not really fast but it was moving ok pace think it might been using tracking mode




This indoors moving and my living room is very dim lit think there's a lamp with 60 watt bulb 8ft away and wall uplighter 60 watt 12ft away so with him dancing like mad at music channel on TV at the time hence no shirt on and swinging the shirt overhead :suspect: its still not too bad though not really best but it has focused okay 60 shutter speed ;)



I wouldn't class it as brilliant but for shutter speed and low light its not too bad ...far from canvas material in my opinion though its fine for regular photo, not that id be printing this maybe for one of them looks who's 21 type posters when he's older lol

2 of images are private added too flickr so if not showing i'll just public them if needed for a short while before deleting
 
God knows how you got him in focus dancing at 60 as I never get that at all how do d you focus for that one?


I think I may have a duffer? But how can I prove it
 
I will have just focused afs mode or whatever it is :thinking: then took few burst type shots then done it once more and check out on screen how they look and that's it ..Just quick random type photo's

I tend too favour the AFS type mode and do the burst shot its so quick initially focusing so straight after hold shutter down get say 3 pics in a row, I did see on Mu-43 site people doing good with tracking mode and greyhounds so its just learning too use it really as i doubt id get greyhounds on the move :shrug:
 
So it either me who crap at taking pictures or it the camera a duffer ha ha need try sort something out. Out of honesty do you get a lot of images that needs thrashing
 
I find if i take a photo composed right and i don't mess it up i get a good rate of keepers on average though, Most of my duffer images are from my mistakes either rubbish composure or me just timing them wrong tbh :bonk:
which is likely same reason for you just practice you'll get there eventually :D
 
re: conversation on AF:

I'm currently running my 5d2 alongside my new OMD to see if I can dump the dslr completely as it's just too big and bulky for me (something I've put up with in the past when it was the only solution to get good IQ).

My biggest fear was with the AF tracking. I also shoot a lot of family and kids indoors in dim light where I need reasonable shutter speeds to stop the movement. Here are my current thoughts after a month or so with the OMD:

1. Using a dslr is the easy (and lazy) solution. Select your AF point, place it on your subjects eye, hold back button AF down (continuous mode) and by-and-large (assuming your not shooting very thin dof), then the camera would track any movements and most pics would be sharp, even in low light. I was constrained to centre point AF with the 5d2, and a nikon d700 might give slightly more keepers, but I was generally happy, plus the FF sensor meant I could often get away shooting available light.

2. The OMD takes more effort (and skill) as a photographer but can give some great results. The learning curve is harder and slower than expected, and I'm finding I'm having to experiment much more (eg zone focusing) to try and improve the situation. The level of keepers is not as high, but I still have a just about acceptable number (to me), which is increasing as I learn the camera. I find the one-shot AF to be very fast at times - fast enough to lock and take a pic of a slow moving kid. I also find using slightly larger DoF gives a little more leeway and improves the keeper rate, as does using burst mode. I still struggle with fast moving kids (even outdoors in good light), but I'm still experimenting with all the AF settings, so maybe things will improve with time.

3. All this means my overall view is that the OMD is just about good enough for AF. I accept I'll miss some action shots in the same way I'll miss the shallow dof shots, but it's way better to have a small portable camera with me rather than a big heavy one at home. I suspect I'll be taking a good long hard look at the next batch of m43 cameras to hit the market, which will no doubt claim to have much improved AF (who knows if they will), to see if the upgrade cost is worth it, but this is one of, if not the biggest weakness, so even a reasonable improvement could be worth some £££ for me. All I am sure about is that the m43 and CSC manufactuers will be frantically working on a better solution to all the AF tracking issues, so at some point things will get a lot better. I'm going to wait until after xmas before making the call to dump my 5d2.

4. Using flash changes the equation. You can use it to stop action and/or to get higher shutter speeds. I have found my fl-600r to be a useful weapon indoors.

5. There some useful threads floating around the web on camera settings for better AF performance (search fred miranda) that might be worth a look.
 
One from a couple of weekends ago, taken at dusk, a rapid fire 7 shot 0.7Ev bracket merged with Photomatrix.
E-M5 and 14-54 MK2

 
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Greytop said:
One from a couple of weekend ago, taken at dusk, a rapid fire 7 shot 0.7Ev bracket merged with Photomatrix.
E-M5 and 14-54 MK2

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That is bloody Awesome I love those sort of photos. I have not figured how to get the Rapid fire 7 Shot bracket yet as the 7D was quite simple to set up
 
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