Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

The stacked is really nice but have to agree with Jeff on the leg.

Rob.
 
From the recent Olympus World Photography day, this may bring some descriptive clarity, or not as the case may be ;)

This was included (starting at the point in the video) in the live stream by Peter Baumgarten, where he explains Focus Stacking compared to Focus Bracketing
View: https://youtu.be/IP7bCchmnEM?t=1007
 
heres that demo shot of the nutcrackers I took when I owned the 60mm macro ,they are at a 45 degree angle and the focus point was just in front of the black rubber
nutcracker sweet by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
 
Hmmmm the stacked image is o.k TILL you look at the translucent petals on the legs .once seen can’t be unseen

.... I agree and it's one of the problems with shooting living moving creatures and plants.

I could probably attempt some Photoshop-ing but I always think it's cheating and also I'm not very good at it and it takes too much time.
 
From the recent Olympus World Photography day, this may bring some descriptive clarity, or not as the case may be ;)

This was included (starting at the point in the video) in the live stream by Peter Baumgarten, where he explains Focus Stacking compared to Focus Bracketing
View: https://youtu.be/IP7bCchmnEM?t=1007

.... At last!! Someone who explains the whole subject extremely clearly. And is also a very good photographer in my opinion.

Cheers Mr Brownie!
 
From the recent Olympus World Photography day, this may bring some descriptive clarity, or not as the case may be ;)

This was included (starting at the point in the video) in the live stream by Peter Baumgarten, where he explains Focus Stacking compared to Focus Bracketing
View: https://youtu.be/IP7bCchmnEM?t=1007

I only watched 10 minutes or so but I liked his style.
 
Hi guys, quick question please. I've just purchased the Olympus 100-400 lens (off Dave in Wales - thanks Dave), and whilst it's very sharp I do have a question over the IS.

My only other two lenses that have built in IS are the 12-100 Pro and the 300mm F4, and those two both have Sync IS meaning the body and the lens IS systems talk to each other. I know the 100-400 don't have Sync IS, so for those that have (or have used this lens), do you tend to favour just the lens IS, just the body IBIS (i have an EM1X and EM1 MK III) or do you tend to leave both on and let the combo sort itself out ?
 
Hi guys, quick question please. I've just purchased the Olympus 100-400 lens (off Dave in Wales - thanks Dave), and whilst it's very sharp I do have a question over the IS.

My only other two lenses that have built in IS are the 12-100 Pro and the 300mm F4, and those two both have Sync IS meaning the body and the lens IS systems talk to each other. I know the 100-400 don't have Sync IS, so for those that have (or have used this lens), do you tend to favour just the lens IS, just the body IBIS (i have an EM1X and EM1 MK III) or do you tend to leave both on and let the combo sort itself out ?

.... Always leave both lens and body IS On and the combo will always sort itself out according to which body and which lens. You simply don't need to think about it.

It's just that the ED 100-400mm doesn't have the extra IS sync with some of the bodies. They had to save money in various aspects in order to keep the 100-400mm costs down.

Btw, your new lens has 'Pro' standard weatherproofing and but not Pro standard materials nor the same build quality.

I have had mine probably for longer than anyone else here - September 2020. When it comes back from Olympus after a full service and repair I will be offering it for sale.
 
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I use to leave both on and let the camera sort it out , EM1X

Rob.
 
does anyone use a screen protector on the 1.2 please ? If so, which one ?
 
I posted this in 'Talk Nature' but as I seem to frequent this sub fora I thought I would mention it here ;)

 
Andrew @Sootchucker you leave both on ,but ENSURE your camera firmware is bang up to date , as Olympus has added pitch and yaw for that lens particularly .. on mine I have added some black silicone wrist bands to the top end of the lens where the 3 tiny screws are as there have been reports of them working loose ,I also added two of them to the lens hood to protect against scratches
 
So today I received my new e-m1.2 and typically have been in meetings all day.

just done a quick test shot or 2 with the p20 of the label on a bag and i must say I’m amazed. The only light on the room is a TV meaning a 1.3s handheld exposure and it’s perfectly sharp.

ps I know this is old hat for you guys but it’s a revelation for me.
 
So today I received my new e-m1.2 and typically have been in meetings all day.

just done a quick test shot or 2 with the p20 of the label on a bag and i must say I’m amazed. The only light on the room is a TV meaning a 1.3s handheld exposure and it’s perfectly sharp.

ps I know this is old hat for you guys but it’s a revelation for me.

Damian try this

View: https://youtu.be/0q1S9V3J3lU
 
Are you trying to encourage me to get a mk3 already Alf ? :naughty:

i am wondering if it would work for these LE and handheld images for car to car rolling shots.. only 1 way to find out but I might need ( want ) a sharper lens as I only have small ones ie 12-32, p20 etc..

maybe a 12-40 if I can find one at a good price
 
Are you trying to encourage me to get a mk3 already Alf ? :naughty:

i am wondering if it would work for these LE and handheld images for car to car rolling shots.. only 1 way to find out but I might need ( want ) a sharper lens as I only have small ones ie 12-32, p20 etc..

maybe a 12-40 if I can find one at a good price
Don’t forget the cheap way round it get a decent converter I.e mmf.3 or mmf.2 and there are tons of pro level four thirds lenses available
 
Are you trying to encourage me to get a mk3 already Alf ? :naughty:

i am wondering if it would work for these LE and handheld images for car to car rolling shots.. only 1 way to find out but I might need ( want ) a sharper lens as I only have small ones ie 12-32, p20 etc..

maybe a 12-40 if I can find one at a good price
How about trying the 12-45, I use mine a lot, small, light and excellent image quality.
Panasonic 12-35/2.8 is also very good as is the 12-40 you already mentioned.
Best of the lot although bigger and heavier is the 12-100, sync is makes those hand held times even better.
 
try again
 

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Hi jeff, how big was the crop? Any chance of seeing the original for comparison please?
as shot ... having trouble posting from flickr at the moment so this is direct upload
 

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Are you trying to encourage me to get a mk3 already Alf ? :naughty:

i am wondering if it would work for these LE and handheld images for car to car rolling shots.. only 1 way to find out but I might need ( want ) a sharper lens as I only have small ones ie 12-32, p20 etc..

maybe a 12-40 if I can find one at a good price
No I only have a 1.2 and a 5.3 though I am considering another 1.2 instead of the 5.3.
 
Don’t know what’s going on robin
 
How about trying the 12-45, I use mine a lot, small, light and excellent image quality.
Panasonic 12-35/2.8 is also very good as is the 12-40 you already mentioned.
Best of the lot although bigger and heavier is the 12-100, sync is makes those hand held times even better.

yes, the 12-45 is one I'm looking at too. The size appeals and i don't need f2.8 really as i have a few primes
 
weird I cant post the pics I did yesterday from flickr ,but I can post earlier ones ...???? will try again later and re-edit them
 
More than a lens roadmap?

This thread over at DPReview hints/points at a potential encouraging OM-DS future.

The screenshot is of Q3, I wonder what the previous 2 pages were about and indeed the pages to come....and are they going to send the same questionaire to other geography language regions?


 
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