Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

Received my new 100-400 Oly lens to use with my EM-1 Mk2. Had it a day and the AF system of the lens is a lot quicker than the Panny 100-400 that I've got, so will sell that one. The lens was on back order and took an age to get to me!

Looking forward to trying it out.

Those who use the mk2 and mk3 - I've found more recently (with the Panny lens) that S-AF is a lot more reliable than C-AF for stationary birds, at least. Obviously S-AF will be poor with BiF. Do you all mostly use C-AF for birding?
 
wezza13 said:
Received my new 100-400 Oly lens to use with my EM-1 Mk2. Had it a day and the AF system of the lens is a lot quicker than the Panny 100-400 that I've got, so will sell that one. The lens was on back order and took an age to get to me!

Looking forward to trying it out.

Those who use the mk2 and mk3 - I've found more recently (with the Panny lens) that S-AF is a lot more reliable than C-AF for stationary birds, at least. Obviously S-AF will be poor with BiF. Do you all mostly use C-AF for birding?
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I use c.a.f all the time . even perched birds tend to move there heads around all the time .s.a.f for buildings /landscapes etc that dont move.. p.s make sure your camera firmware is up to date for this lens
 
A fine fellow of a Male House Sparrow, one of many that now treat our garden as 'home'.
X0394_DxO_edit_PS finish.jpg

M1X with 300mm & x2 TC

Plus the only decent one I managed of the fledgling who stayed long enough for me to get the camera..................sadly I missed some potentially better ones of 'him' and his nest mates :( They all flew off and likely never to be seen in the garden (again?)

X0380_DxO_editPS finish.jpg
 
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That 2xTC looks worth having. The 1.4 is glued to my EM1iii and 300mm lately.

I don’t get sparrows in my garden, although we do get lots of other birds.

I’ve been revisiting Pro Capture low lately and been playing with more stacking on the 60mm.

Edit - to add a couple of photos. I edited the peony in Nik Efex, and a hovering stonechat :)


20210530-BC121749_Nik.jpg



20210529-BC130336_1_2-1.jpg
 
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Bebop said:
That 2xTC looks worth having. The 1.4 is glued to my EM1iii and 300mm lately.

I don’t get sparrows in my garden, although we do get lots of other birds.

I’ve been revisiting Pro Capture low lately and been playing with more stacking on the 60mm.

Edit - to add a couple of photos. I edited the peony in Nik Efex, and a hovering stonechat :)


View attachment 319942



View attachment 319943
Click to expand...

I especially like the "look ma, no wings...." Stonechat. ProCap Lo really can reveal the way birds fly/move.

Re: TC's ~ with f8 and need for > 1/2000s (with birds) does push the ISO higher than I would like......even in bright'ish conditions.

Therefore, I am thinking the 300mm might be best used with the x1.4 most of the time where lower ISO is the aim (lower ISO =reduced noise =more crop potential. These choices are a compromise 'payoff' question?) Then to keep the x2 on the 40-150mm ???
 
Box Brownie said:
I especially like the "look ma, no wings...." Stonechat. ProCap Lo really can reveal the way birds fly/move.

Re: TC's ~ with f8 and need for > 1/2000s (with birds) does push the ISO higher than I would like......even in bright'ish conditions.

Therefore, I am thinking the 300mm might be best used with the x1.4 most of the time where lower ISO is the aim (lower ISO =reduced noise =more crop potential. These choices are a compromise 'payoff' question?) Then to keep the x2 on the 40-150mm ???
Click to expand...
Hmmm yes, food for thought. I really love the 40-150 lens, but I don't use it very often. I like it for wet weather football matches :)

I've been reading the manual for the EM1iii this morning - it mentions 15 frames for stacking, but I've noticed it will do more now - so presumably that was a firmware update. The Em1ii still only does 15 (that is what I used for the flower above).
 
@Bebop

I have only used Focus Bracketing a couple of times using my now sold Mk2...............I had a guide printed out (a single page) that showed the difference between Focus Stacking and Focus Bracketing. As I recall the Bracketing used in the set some front focused & the rest back focused BUT Focus Stacking did not have the front focused 'set'. NB unless I ma remembering them the wrong way round???

But FWIW here are some linked pages about the subject(s)
Stacking
How do you use the Olympus Focus Stacking mode? | Camera Jabber

Both?
Using Focus Bracketing and Stacking in Landscape Photography | Olympus (getolympus.com)

More info re: bracketing?
Autumn Mushrooms: Focus Stacking & Bracketing | Olympus (getolympus.com)

Of the couple I tried I thought it was very useful tool :)

PS still looking for the printable guide I found online but for now this video might be of interest
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=268552454899408
View: https://www.facebook.com/getolympus/videos/268552454899408


From 44mins onwards is the usage and settings 'section'.
 
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the black fox said:
I use c.a.f all the time . even perched birds tend to move there heads around all the time .s.a.f for buildings /landscapes etc that dont move.. p.s make sure your camera firmware is up to date for this lens
Click to expand...

Thanks Jeff. Yes, I use C-AF all of the time but tried S-AF after watching a Youtube video that said Olympus' S-AF is still, by far, the most advanced section of their AF system, which is why I tried it. Have gone back to C-AF with this Oly 100-400 though (y)

Firmware for body says 3.3 and 1.0 for lens. I think that's the most up-to-date firmware.
 
@Bebop

I found my printed copy of the 'guide' I mentioned could not recall where I found it...................but thankfully it has source author on the page. It is Kim Holst who I learned is/was an Olympus Ambassador.

However, search as I might it took a while to find the revision of the doc that I have (a few links out there to an earlier revision :( )

So, here is the doc to share :) NB I could not attach the pdf :thinking: so saved it as a .jpg happy to send it via other routes.

Kiim Holst_Focus Stacking guide.jpg

PS looks like my description about the two 'methods' was the wrong way round ~ c'est la vie.................such is my recall :lol:
 
wezza13 said:
Thanks Jeff. Yes, I use C-AF all of the time but tried S-AF after watching a Youtube video that said Olympus' S-AF is still, by far, the most advanced section of their AF system, which is why I tried it. Have gone back to C-AF with this Oly 100-400 though (y)

Firmware for body says 3.3 and 1.0 for lens. I think that's the most up-to-date firmware.
Click to expand...
like post processing EVERYONE uses there camera slightly differently ,a lot of u.tube and faceberk posts are not done by people living in the u.k so criteria will be entirely different ..you now have a super set-up learn it and enjoy
 
Box Brownie said:
@Bebop

I found my printed copy of the 'guide' I mentioned could not recall where I found it...................but thankfully it has source author on the page. It is Kim Holst who I learned is/was an Olympus Ambassador.

However, search as I might it took a while to find the revision of the doc that I have (a few links out there to an earlier revision :( )

So, here is the doc to share :) NB I could not attach the pdf :thinking: so saved it as a .jpg happy to send it via other routes.

View attachment 320065

PS looks like my description about the two 'methods' was the wrong way round ~ c'est la vie.................such is my recall :LOL:
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Brilliant. I will have a good look through later on my computer. I’ve only used the focus stacking so far - never occurred to me to use stacking for landscapes, but there lies something else to play with one day

I’ve found the results from the focus stacking to be amazingly good and have only recently been varying the differential. I’m always amazed at the wonders of the technology. So clever!

edit - just to say, I have noticed it does vary the focus a little forwards first before going back - When it stacks.
 
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Hey all, Hope everyone is well?

I’m looking to have a dabble into a bit of video with my E-M1 Mark 3, primarily of garden birds on the feeders and general wildlife when out an about. But I was hoping for a little bit of advice...

Firstly I’m looking for a recommendation for an external mic that will offer a better sound quality and distance range for bird/wildlife. Is one the Oly mic systems a good place to start?

And then secondly if anyone has any top tips for videography with the Olympus, it would be very much appreciated! E.g. should I be using C-AF? Any other settings to keep an eye out for?

Thank you
 
Joe94 said:
Hey all, Hope everyone is well?

I’m looking to have a dabble into a bit of video with my E-M1 Mark 3, primarily of garden birds on the feeders and general wildlife when out an about. But I was hoping for a little bit of advice...

Firstly I’m looking for a recommendation for an external mic that will offer a better sound quality and distance range for bird/wildlife. Is one the Oly mic systems a good place to start?

And then secondly if anyone has any top tips for videography with the Olympus, it would be very much appreciated! E.g. should I be using C-AF? Any other settings to keep an eye out for?

Thank you
Click to expand...

Check out Mike Lane on YouTube
 
RODE video mic with a rabbit ,sound deadner is a good starting point
 
Box Brownie said:
Well spotted and caught.

But for me I would prefer a square crop to remove the one on the left....'swimming out scene'.
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Did try that with the previous one in burst ,will try later
 
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A nice set of invertebrates you have there :)
 
the black fox said:
ducks in training
splash point by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
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I'm really liking the image quality you are producing with the Mark 111 and 100-400 lens, lovely detail and colour rendition.
I'm considering a move from my Nikon D500 + 200-500 lens, just finding the weight getting a bit too much for this old man walking a couple of miles on cliff tops and RSPB sites!.
The Oly is high on my list and a very friendly independant shop has offered me, in a few weeks time, a day out with your set up, it to see if 'its for me'........subject to availability, which I understand may be a problem.
 
mulch said:
I'm really liking the image quality you are producing with the Mark 111 and 100-400 lens, lovely detail and colour rendition.
I'm considering a move from my Nikon D500 + 200-500 lens, just finding the weight getting a bit too much for this old man walking a couple of miles on cliff tops and RSPB sites!.
The Oly is high on my list and a very friendly independant shop has offered me, in a few weeks time, a day out with your set up, it to see if 'its for me'........subject to availability, which I understand may be a problem.
Click to expand...
TBH its a combination camera +lens is very good ,all up weight is just on 2kg all in ..IBIS pitch and yaw plus lens i.s is superb ..BUT the menu system is quiet complex and just having a play might not get the same results ,its taken me 3 weeks to get it working how I like it ,constantly altering settings and trying out new ones .. I also still need to try starry skies , and although I have the live neutral density filters ready I have yet to find a worthy subject to test it on ..
I have looked at other systems but either weight or cost or a combination of both has put me off ..lenses for the system are so cheap to depending on needs but I have a combo of 3 other lenses 7.5mm fisheye, 42.5 mm f1.8 A/F prime ,and 60mm f2.8 macro that together cost the grand total of £250 and all are pin sharp and 3 together weigh around 1kg .so lighten your pocket and your load and go for it .
 
another shot from Saturday , these are all taken in a dark woodland setting so shadows can be a problem
curiosity by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
 
Box Brownie said:
Therefore, I am thinking the 300mm might be best used with the x1.4 most of the time where lower ISO is the aim (lower ISO =reduced noise =more crop potential. These choices are a compromise 'payoff' question?) Then to keep the x2 on the 40-150mm ???
Click to expand...

.... I have found over a long period of time that the x2 MC-20 works extremely well indeed on the Oly 40-150mm Pro and the 1.4x MC-14 on the Oly 300mm Pro.
 
RedRobin said:
.... I have found over a long period of time that the x2 MC-20 works extremely well indeed on the Oly 40-150mm Pro and the 1.4x MC-14 on the Oly 300mm Pro.
Click to expand...

Hi Robin

Thanks for the insight.................especially relevant this evening.

There was one of the local crows preening nearby, I initially just watched with the bino's, thinking by the time I got the camera it would be gone!

But no it stayed, so rushed to get the camera still rigged with the 300mm & x2 TC, it was quite big in the frame and as it flew (lower shutter speed was low ~ to avoid underexposure against a dark tree lined background) it was gone is 3 frames and none in flight are in focus. It then landed on next doors aerial and filled the frame even more and another joined it...so I barely got both in the frame.

So, I will switch the TC's over and see how it goes :)

PS I will check the files later and post as appropriate

PPS I am finding that the 300mm and M1X are so well balanced :D
 
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Bebop said:
Brilliant. I will have a good look through later on my computer. I’ve only used the focus stacking so far - never occurred to me to use stacking for landscapes, but there lies something else to play with one day

I’ve found the results from the focus stacking to be amazingly good and have only recently been varying the differential. I’m always amazed at the wonders of the technology. So clever!

edit - just to say, I have noticed it does vary the focus a little forwards first before going back - When it stacks.
Click to expand...

.... I find that onboard (E-M1X) Focus Bracketing, not Focus Stacking, works best because the onboard system will not complete and offer a file if there are any hiccups at all. Whereas, there is far more control using Focus Bracketing plus all your slices are RAW rather than giving you a stacked JPEG. All the following images are shot with Focus Bracket and simply merged in Affinity Photo. Slices vary from 3 to 10 in these examples - All shot on either ED 100-400mm+MC-14 or ED 40-150mm+MC-20 on Gitzo monopod.

VARIABLE DAMSELFLY by Robin Procter, on Flickr

BEAUTIFUL DEMOISELLE by Robin Procter, on Flickr

FOUR-SPOTTED CHASER DRAGONFLY by Robin Procter, on Flickr

Fly_M1X50293 F7@ by Robin Procter, on Flickr
 
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Super set robin
 
superpippo said:
That's a smashing shot Jeff. Clear and lovely colours. Really nicely caught ripples on the water(y)
I note that it is ISO5000. Did you put it through Topaz Denoise?
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Yes alan ,as I said in one of my posts these shots are taken in a woodland setting with harsh sunlight and dark shadows ,thus virtually everything is high I.s.o and also cropped heavily .. thus all shots benefit from topaz denoise Ai
 
RedRobin said:
.... I find that onboard (E-M1X) Focus Bracketing, not Focus Stacking, works best because the onboard system will not complete and offer a file if there are any hiccups at all. Whereas, there is far more control using Focus Bracketing plus all your slices are RAW rather than giving you a stacked JPEG. All the following images are shot with Focus Bracket and simply merged in Affinity Photo. Slices vary from 3 to 10 in these examples - All shot on either ED 100-400mm+MC-14 or ED 40-150mm+MC-20 on Gitzo monopod.

VARIABLE DAMSELFLY by Robin Procter, on Flickr

BEAUTIFUL DEMOISELLE by Robin Procter, on Flickr

FOUR-SPOTTED CHASER DRAGONFLY by Robin Procter, on Flickr

Fly_M1X50293 F7@ by Robin Procter, on Flickr
Click to expand...
Fabulous results there Robin. I use Affinity Photo, but I haven't yet for stacking.

The only hiccups I've had so far have been when it's been windy and the subject has moved.

Presumably because I usually only shoot RAW, I find that when I use the onboard stacking, it still gives me all the raw files as well as the jpegs, so I could also use Affinity as well as having the jpeg produced onboard. As yet, I haven't bothered, I've always been amazed at how good the jpegs are.

It makes sense to use less slices for animate objects and to use bracketing, rather than stacking (which I have only used for flowers anyway). I will have to give this a go - thanks for sharing!
 
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