Olympus 35RC Project

stevelmx5

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As I've now finished my chrome and Wenge veneer SX-70 Model 1 project, I've moved on to a classic 35mm rangefinder.

I bought this camera a while back but when it arrived I noticed some spiderweb fungus on the rear element. At the time, I was busy on other cameras to take a look at this one but have just stripped the lens back to take a proper look and found that the fungus just wiped off with a camera lens cleaning cloth and left no lasting damage :0)

After completing the SX-70, I hadn't planned to do any more veneer because it was so time consuming but having seen some similar wood covered rangefinders online, I've decided to use it. So far, all I've done after repairing the lens it to remove the original leather/vinyl skin (which came off surprisingly easily and in three solid pieces). I've stuck them to the veneer sheet ready to cut out in the week.

As with the Polaroid thread, I find documenting my projects makes me work on them and I enjoy looking back on the steps. If any of the pictures/text help anyone else then all the better!

1) Original camera with Olympus lens cap and skin. Before disassembling, I set the focal distance to infinity and the aperture ring to 'off' so I knew where to re-attach the rings/elements.

View attachment 24705

2) Showing spiderweb fungus on rear element. Other than this, the rest of the camera is in perfect condition so it's an excellent project donor

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3) After unscrewing the thin black plastic retaining ring, the front panel holding the metering cell can be lifted out. I left the two wires soldered to the cell as there is enough flex on the wires to lift the lens rings out of the way. The plastic retaining ring is tiny and sits between the two chrome rings on the front of the lens. There are two notches opposite each other. I used a fine blade screwdriver to unscrew it.

View attachment 24709

3) The three very small blade head screws are removed first. They hold a black metal disk (in the picture above) that moves the lens elements forwards/backwards on the helicoid to focus when the outer ring is turned.

4) After the focussing disk is removed, the next three screws can then also be removed. They are small cross-head screws and hold the silver ring in place. Once unscrewed, the silver disk can be lifted up once the rangefinder pin is pushed back through its mount hole.

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5) Once the silver ring is lifted out of the way, the lens element can be taken off the camera. It comes off in a single unit with the front/rear elements together. I then wiped the rear element with a lens cleaning cloth and dried it with a lint free cloth.

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6) I then re-fitted the lens elements and re-assembled the parts. The most awkward part was getting the three focussing disk retaining screws back in because they're very small, have a very thin slot and are also a tight fit...other than that, they're easy!

After checking that the focussing range and shutter speeds were set correctly (hitting the focus stops), I then removed the leather skin panels by lifting one corner with a thin screwdriver and the pealing each part away. I then placed some veneer pieces on the body to see how it might look....I'm definitely veneering it

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Anyway, that's me for this evening. I don't want to take over the F&C section entirely!

Cheers
Steve
 
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Steve,

Your project reports are just wonderful and worth anyone's time to read so please keep posting. The 35RC is as well a very good pocket camera to carry at all times.
 
Thanks Richard. I've had a couple of 35RCs before when I first started shooting film and have always liked the handling of them.

For such a small camera, they're really simple to use and deliver excellent results so I'm glad I could remove the fungus off the rear element to keep it shooting.

I'll keep this thread updated as I go along :0)

Cheers
Steve
 
I've just cut some new templates out of card that are slightly bigger than the original vinyl skin as it had shrunk over the last 40 years.

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I also fitted a hearing aid battery with blutac surround and foil packing to test the metering. Running it alongside my iPhone meter it's spot on and successfully tripping the shutter or blocking it depending on the shutter speed selected so that's good :0)

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After that, I cut out the final rear veneer piece and started to steam bend it. Once that was taped to shape, I moved on to the front pieces...after breaking my third attempt I've stepped away from it for now! I can see why the 'norm' is a leather cover...why can I never just go with the easy option!

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Time for a coffee I think

Cheers
Steve
 
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Maybe you could cover the next one with sequins, it would make a lovely Christmas present:lol:
 
Tell you what mate, if you want sequins I'll do them ;0)

How about a bit of gold tinsel around the lens too?
 
This is fantastic! Reminds me of my old Atari 2600, the games console with a wood veneer finish :D
 
Nice reference, I thought of the half-timbered Morris Traveller but that's a framework rather than panelling :)
 
Nice reference, I thought of the half-timbered Morris Traveller but that's a framework rather than panelling :)

H'mm, if you're going half-timbered, don't forget the thatch... :D
 
Ah, the pleasurable task of steam bending 0.5mm veneer around a mix of curved and 90 degree corners...got there in the end though!

Started by bonding the larger flat faces together so that the veneer is held in place. Then taped across the first corner to keep it tight and let the steam soften it.

View attachment 24970

After that, put another strip of tape across the veneer and move on to the next corner.

View attachment 24971

A bit of trimming/sanding to meet the edges before final glue and tape.

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Both front panels bent and glued.

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Even though it is the largest piece, the rear panel was the hardest because of the 90 degree bend at each end with very short sections to bond.

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The camera is now mummified so I'll leave it until tomorrow to see how the veneer looks. I think I'll need to do some more tidying of the veneer once it's all dried as this camera is much harder than the SX-70 was with its' flat skin panels.

Cheers
Steve
 
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Can you get burr veneers of native wood?

Nice work, and now that Hassleblad's idiotic "Lunar" factory has shut down you may be their last best hope for mankind ...
 
I haven't looked for burr veneers but I'm sure there's a seller out there.

With regards to the Hasselblad's, please don't link me with those (unless you want to pay me Hasselblad rates...) ;0)
 
I removed the tape earlier today and all of the veneer has stuck well.

View attachment 25133

I now need to sand over the veneer to make sure it's flush with all the edges as well as thinning out the rear door catch edge because it's probably a little too tight at the moment.

Once it's all sanded, I'll need at least two coats of matt varnish and to touch in a couple of black areas then I'll be happy.

Cheers
Steve
 
Looking good Steve!
I've got 2 RCs, you are giving me ideas for one of them!
 
Thanks mate. I'm a big fan of the RC's so making one more unique can't be a bad thing.

You should definitely go for it :0)
 
Thanks mate. I'm a big fan of the RC's so making one more unique can't be a bad thing.

You should definitely go for it :0)
Yep, I'm a big fan too. Its the one I usually reach for on the shelf due to size, fits in the pocket nicely!
Even though I have 10 other Oly's!
 
Just finished the first sanding job on the veneer to get it all level with the body metalwork.

There are a couple of high spots left I can feel as well as some black paint touch ups before the varnish is applied but I'm liking the feel of the camera with the new skin. In a strange way, the camera feels more tactile than it did with the original vinyl skin. I'm looking forward to getting it varnished now :0)

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Cheers
Steve
 
Lovely little cameras, and an excellent job. I had one, bought new in Hong Kong, with the dedicated flash unit but I threw them out during a house move a few years ago. This was probably a mistake, but they're not hard to find and I suppose I could get another one.
 
Thanks Martyn. I agree, they are excellent little cameras and deliver really nice results. That makes them an excellent base for a project.

As you say they are relatively easy to find if you look for one, this one will be in the classified soon too :0)

Cheers
Steve
 
Its classy!
:cool:
 
And we're finished :0)













That was much more time consuming than the Polaroid SX-70 due to the complexity of the skin sections but I'm happy with the final result. Now to list it in the classifieds then focus on the ivory SX-70 :0)

Cheers
Steve
 
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