Ok - I've got my Bowens 400/400 kit - HELP!

You should be able to trigger the 2nd flash from the 1st by using the optical trigger that will be built in to all decent studio flash heads. I would suggest that the Bowens website of the manual would be a god starting place.
 
Looking at the rear of the flash head there is a switch marked CELL. If you switch this on this would activate the slave mode and should fire when it detects a flash.
 
:thumbs: that workshop I did with Gary Edwards was worth while :D
 
for your upcoming event, use a flash on top of your camera in manual mode to trigger them, or a radio trigger. Sync cables and events don't mix ;)
 
Neither does other peoples flashes setting yours off.

Each gun needs a dedicated trigger anywhere someone else has a flash.

This is fairly elementary. If you are hanging a shingle and being paid for taking pictures, you had better know what you are doing.
 
even a compact or mobile could set them off, you really need to look into that :)
 
AlicePalice said:
Really? Well I never knew that.

Hmmm maybe Im gonna have to buy a wireless trigger then..... or will the compacts still set them off? Whats the way round it?
Click to expand...

Nah, the wireless triggers are usually radio linked using specific frequencies/channels which means it's unlikely anyone else would trigger your flashes (only if they were using equipment transmitting on the frequencies/channels).

You put the transmitter into your camera hotshoe and then attach the receiver(s) to your flash heads using suitable cables. When you take a photo the transmitter sends a signal to the receiver(s) and triggers your flashes.

Radio triggers are usually capable of transmitting on different 'channels'. So, if you find someone else is triggering your flashes you can just change to a different channel.
 
All Elinchroms include a built in radio trigger, even the cheapest D-Lite.

But it's too late for that.

Investigate Yongnuo rf602.
 
Your flash heads have built in slaves so they trigger off each other. So anything else flashing could easily set them off. Makes sense really :)

The best way round that is to use a radio trigger, highly unlikely anyone else will be using a radio frequency the same as you in close proximity.

I do use IR triggers in the studio where it's entirely at my control but if you are goint to be using them in an environment where other people could set them off then it's best to use radio triggers on both if you are using both. If you only used the radio trigger on one then the other could still be slaving off unwanted flashes.

Now I've had me tea and can explain better ;)
 
aye... I use optical slaves for event work I must admit (unless there's strobe or too many flashing lights near me)... my key light is on radio trigger, rear lights are on slave... if some pikey sod is shooting over my shoulder, they'll pop the background lights giving them a gross shillouette. :D

You're presumably not shooting white background with just 2 lights though, so yeah.... radio triggers really are the best solution, and you definitely can't use a sync cord for event work. No way.
 
Anything that produces light to me is a flashgun.

Studio style or hotshoe style.

Just a different way of saying the same thing.
 
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