OK Boys, this is it.

Andysnap

Andysnap

Suspended / Banned
Messages
16,322
Name
Andy Grant
Edit My Images
Yes
I'm off to t'interweb to buy some chemicals and some time next week I shall dev my first film at home......:eek:

Any suggestions for a first timer about which developer/fixer to get?

Andy
 
I use Rodinal one shot for all my black and white, Ilford rapid fixer and Ilford stop bath.... it's worked well with whatever film I've used....
 
Cheers Lee, I was looking at Rodinol or Ilfosol 3.
 
I have Ilfosol 3 as well, I just haven't used it yet....
I've developed in excess of 40 rolls of black and white now, and not had one mishap using Rodinal one shot....so, it made sense to stick with it...
 
A big +1 for Rodinal, I've been using ADOX's version for a while and the results are grand :thumbs:
 
beer-a-noll
 
Andysnap said:
I'm off to t'interweb to buy some chemicals and some time next week I shall dev my first film at home......:eek:

Any suggestions for a first timer about which developer/fixer to get?

Andy
Click to expand...

I use Ilford Ilfotech LC29 with Ilford Stop Bath and Ilford Rapid Fixer. They've all worked well for me and I find them easy to manage, but I was taught with those and haven't really experimented with much else, although I'd like to try some DD-X for using with Delta 3200 some time in the near future.
 
As above Andy, I use R09 (Rodinal) and Ilford Fixer although I cheap out and use water+few drops of vinegar for the Stop ;0)

Cheers
Steve
 
I've only used Ilfosol 3 and if I can do it, it's got to be idiot-proof :D

I fancy trying Rodinal next though, based on the number of folk here who rate it.
 
Andy, a wise move to begin home developing, you won't look back!

There is a wide choice and in the end it will be you personal preference. Personally I use Ilford chemicals, LC29 Developer at 1-19' Ilford stop and Ilford Rapid Fixer. I find LC29 a reality versatile developer. I used to use ID11, and have also used Rodinal and Kodak D76, all are good developers but there is something about LC29 that I really like.

God look on this new venture!
 
Thanks guys, all good info. I shall have little think and order it tomorrow.
 
Rodinal, D76 and ID-11 are all long established favourites amongst B&W users. I don't know which film you will be using, but Rodinal with fast films like Tri-X and HP5 is very much a Marmite like thing, you either love it or hate it. I mainly use Tri-X and don't like it all, much preferring D76. If you shoot Tri-X, try it anyway, you might like it.

Two final small points:

It is often written that Rodinal keeps forever. Well, it might have done so once, but the RO9 I last used went off after about 18 months. When it goes off it does so all at once, from perfectly OK one day to not working at all the next.

D76 and ID-11 are pretty much the same stuff, but D76 is cheaper per unit volume and easier to mix.

Good luck with your experiments.
 
Thanks Nick. I shall probably just buy a small quantity to start with but I do get through a fair amount of film so going off will probably not be a problem.
I do need to decide what film to shoot for the test roll, I'm thinking maybe a roll of Fuji Acros?
 
I'm right behind you, Andy, please report every step of the way!
 
Well Chris, my first report is.....drum roll.....

Just bought the chemicals. I've gone with Ilfotech LC39 as it seems to be good value for money and is a fine grain developer, also stuck with Ilford for the fix and stop. Should be here tomorrow but I won't be using them until the weekend.

Andy
 
As you have ordered its a bit late but as a future alternative Kodak HC110 is well worth a look it is consistently reliable and lasts forever.
Unofficial Resource I tend to use dilution H myself

I use Ilford stop with indicator as its cheap enough for fixer I don't use B&W fixers as I find they go sulphated way to soon and cost to much anyway so as I mostly do E6 I use Fuji Hunt Unimatic fixer, this is now discontinued but if you know where to look can be had for 15 + 10 for delivery for 20L ie 200L mixed which will keep most people in fixer for a while.(yes you can use E6 fix for B&W)

It's worth getting Ilfotol or a similar wetting agent too.

Anyone aspiring to doing a bit of diy processing I have a small Paterson tank which will be free to a good home.



 
Good luck with your developing Andy. It will be magic when you look at that first roll.

I have never used Ilford. I use Rodinal (R09), D-76 and my favorite Xtol.
 
NickT said:
It is often written that Rodinal keeps forever. Well, it might have done so once, but the RO9 I last used went off after about 18 months. When it goes off it does so all at once, from perfectly OK one day to not working at all the next.
Click to expand...

I too have found exactly this. Developed some frames some 2-3 months ago with no issues at all. Came to develop a roll last night and had to chuck it and open a new bottle. It had formed a sand-like
crystalline sediment at the bottom and turned almost completely black. So yes, a note more for the future than now, but as soon as it looks unusual, it's probably time to bin it. If you do a lot of developing though, the chances are that you'll empty the bottle before it goes off. Things have slowed down big time for me over the last year, hence the developer going off.
 
Get your finger out lad ^^^ Anyone would think you had more important things to do than take photos....madness.
 
abbandon, are you in either the South West or coming to the Extravaganza in May? If so and you're still trying to get shot of a dev tank, I would be interested but the cost of postage would probably make carriage more expensive than local sourcing so would only go for it collected.

ETA, if necessary, we should take this to the classifieds to avoid the wrath of Mark!
 
There are different variants of the Rodinal forumla, and if I remember correctly R09 does have a short shelf life - comparatively. I'm still using a very old bottle of the Agfa Rodinal (I bought a lot when they started to pull out of making it).

Rodinal gives a very sharp result, but a lot of grain, which I don't like. But with the films I use in the size I use them, it's not a problem.

Use vinegar as a cheap stop by all mean - but go for the clear variety.
 
Out of interest, is the issue with 'standard' vinegar the risk of a colour cast or just the smell? I've used a few drops of standard Sarsons vinegar in plain tap water for every B&W roll I've developed with no obvious casts or issues?

Cheers
Steve
 
Mainly that white vinegar is pretty much just acetic acid, whereas malt vinegar has other things added. To be honest, I can't see much of an issue with Sarson's. They all smell the same. And film isn't going to stain.

I used to dilute glacial acetic acid to make my stop baths until I started using stop baths with an indicator in. I prefer the acetic acid based ones (although I don't like the smell of vinegar) over the odourless ones based on citric acid because acetic acid remains mould free. As I always say, I've seen mouldy lemons but never a mouldy pickled onion.
 
Last edited:
Same here also. Never had a problem using just water for stop. Rinse the tank out about 4-5 times seems perfectly sufficient.
 
Woodsy said:
Rinse the tank out about 4-5 times seems perfectly sufficient.
Click to expand...

If I'm not going to re-use the fixer, I only do it once. Sometimes not at all, just pour out the developer and pour in the fix.


Steve.
 
abbandon said:
It's worth getting Ilfotol or a similar wetting agent too.
Click to expand...

I pour out the fixer, then put a drop of washing-up liquid in the tank and rinse until I stop getting bubbles. Seems to do the trick and I haven't noticed any water marks on my negatives.
 
This thread is inspiring me to embark on another learning curve, could this be the end of digital:)
 
Apparently its a way of ruining a photo without wasting film.....doesn't sound very clever to me.
 
Andysnap said:
Apparently its a way of ruining a photo without wasting film.....doesn't sound very clever to me.
Click to expand...

Oh. I always thought it referred to whether your darkroom timer had hands and a clock face or just showed numbers. Mine is a Smiths clockwork one with hands.
 
I do have digits but I'm not really digital...how does that work?

StephenM said:
Oh. I always thought it referred to whether your darkroom timer had hands and a clock face or just showed numbers. Mine is a Smiths clockwork one with hands.
Click to expand...

How very modern, I count elephants. :D
 
Hi Andy,

Good to hear that you are taking the plunge into home deving .... I reckon you'll probably wondered why you never did it earlier once you get started.

I confess that I have very much only skip read the replies on here but can echo the water stop ( never had a problem), rodinal as a decent all rounder developer ...certainly ideal for "finding your feet" as it were.
Don't forget the fixer is re useable several times ..in fact i sometimes wonder just how long it can last!

Mirasol for the final rinse is what i use but some folk use washing up liquid ( Ive read debates about long term effects on the negatives but like any debate, it's a matter of personal preference!)
Depending on your local water, you may get away without using any rinse aid.

Above all, have fun and enjoy!
 
Thanks Asha, I'm hoping to find an hour or two this afternoon to have my first go. Just need to print out the crib sheet, check I've got everything and then (after I've replaced the toilet seat.... What fun....) I shall be messing up... I mean developing my first film :D:banana:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top