OFFICIAL I HAVE A NEW (FILM RELATED) TOY THREAD!!

So, you buy a new camera and realise you have no film, no film holders or any way of processing the film even if you had the first two.
These are my latest purchases which should arrive this coming Tuesday.
The price of 8x10 film is eye watering.
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I have a 'new' Contax 167MT to complement my RTS and lenses. The RTS is brilliant for landscapes, scenics and still-life macro with its easily accessible Mirror Up and regulable mechanical self-timer. The 167MT has none of those features, but has a 3fps motorwind, spot meter with AE lock that stays locked until it is switched off. It will be much handier for moving subjects and it runs on AAA batteries. :)

20241013_105212_resize_34.jpg
 
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Vivitar 80-200.jpg

Vivitar 80-200 in C/Y flavour for my Contax cameras. I put it on an Urth mount on the Lumix S1 with a polarising filter and took a shot of our liquid amber tree at full zoom.

Liquid Amber Test V80-200+PoL.jpg

Then the church next door got a hit at the short end. I changed that to mono....


Church Mono.jpg

It isn't brilliant. But at thirty euros I can live with it.
 
Here is my new (to me) Nikon W 360 f6.5 fitted to the pride of my fleet, a Tachihara 8x10 field stand.
Once again, the sheer size and weight of the lens surprised me.
A small price to pay for getting a good size image circle.nikkor 3601.JPGnikkor 3602.JPG
 
I think my 360mm lens is the largest and heaviest I have, although in terms of size my two lenses in Ilex 5 shutters are hard to match for diameter!

I've just received a 120mm wide angle for 10x8 which is relatively small and light.
 
The Nikon 360 has an image circle of circa 494mm which is the largest of all nikons.
120mm is seriously wide on 8x10.
Who makes it?
 
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soupdragon said:
So, you buy a new camera and realise you have no film, no film holders or any way of processing the film even if you had the first two.
These are my latest purchases which should arrive this coming Tuesday.
The price of 8x10 film is eye watering.
View attachment 436130
View attachment 436131
View attachment 436133
Click to expand...

Tony, how do you control the temperature with this? If you can't control it to at least 0.5 deg.C you are going to get un-correctable colour shifts on your Portra film and are 'p***ing into the wind!'

It will only be useful for B&W; yes, you might get lucky a couple of times but colour processing is all about consistency; I know I keep saying it but temp. is absolutely critical!
 
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Jammy Dodger said:
Tony, how do you control the temperature with this? If you can't control it to at least 0.5 deg.C you are going to get un-correctable colour shifts on your Portra film and are 'p***ing into the wind!'

It will only be useful for B&W; yes, you might get lucky a couple of times but colour processing is all about consistency; I know I keep saying it but temp. is absolutely critical!
Click to expand...
I have two tempering baths, one for two 500ml bottles of chemicals and one for keeping the Stearman Press tank semi submerged and at temperature.
The heating is provided and controlled by two Cinestill sous vides.

I pre-wash the film in the tempering bath for at least two minutes, this heats the tank to the desired temperature.
Given the first dev time is only 3.5 minutes, I have no problem with temperature control.

Looking at the negs post drying, they have a normal mask colour and the density is very good.

I'll be processing E6 next week using the same method and I anticipate no issues. E6 is not as tough as people think as ONLY the first dev has to be accurately controlled.
Understanding E6 processing really does make life easier.
.
 
soupdragon said:
The Nikon 360 has an image circle of circa 494mm which is the largest of all nikons.
120mm is seriously wide on 8x10.
Who makes it?
Click to expand...

By coincidence, Nikon. It's the Nikkor SW 120mm f/8. You'll find some information about it and other lenses here

photographylife.com

The 8x10 Lenses I Recommend the Most

I've just finished a major update on my guide to 8x10 lenses. This article now includes detailed specifications for almost every modern 8x10 lens, ranging from ultra-wide to telephoto, plus my complete recommendations. If you're planning to shoot 8x10 film, I hope you find it an indispensable...
photographylife.com photographylife.com

I also have the Super Symmar XL 110mm lens, which I haven't tried on 10x8 as yet. As you probably recall, I use 5x7 as well.
 
soupdragon said:
I have two tempering baths, one for two 500ml bottles of chemicals and one for keeping the Stearman Press tank semi submerged and at temperature.
The heating is provided and controlled by two Cinestill sous vides.

I pre-wash the film in the tempering bath for at least two minutes, this heats the tank to the desired temperature.
Given the first dev time is only 3.5 minutes, I have no problem with temperature control.

Looking at the negs post drying, they have a normal mask colour and the density is very good.

I'll be processing E6 next week using the same method and I anticipate no issues. E6 is not as tough as people think as ONLY the first dev has to be accurately controlled.
Understanding E6 processing really does make life easier.
Click to expand...
I ve watched the videos on this and IMO it is NOT suitable for colour developing! The is NO consistent agitation method and no way to keep the developer at temp once it is in the tray - the developer will loose a lot of heat during 3 mins Tony!

It looks great for B&W at room temp though.
 
Jammy Dodger said:
I ve watched the videos on this and IMO it is NOT suitable for colour developing! The is NO consistent agitation method and no way to keep the developer at temp once it is in the tray - the developer will loose a lot of heat during 3 mins Tony!

It looks great for B&W at room temp though.
Click to expand...
I keep the tank effectively floating in the second tempering bath.
Agitation is similar to a Paterson orbital.

If you look in the show us your film shot thread you will be able to see this method works.
 
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I have reassessed my opinion on the Vivitar 80-200 lens I got for my Contax outfit. Today I put it on the Lumix S1 along with a Vivitar 2X converter. THe car on the left is over 150 metres away and partially masked by foliage.


Test V 80-200 + 2X.jpg


Test V 80-200 + 2X Crop.jpg


Then I tried the macro setting at 80mm focal length. It claims to give 1:3 magnification.


Test V 80-20 Macro.jpg

All hand held and I think that's where the problem was yesterday causing a bit of softness. Operator error!
 
soupdragon said:
I have two tempering baths, one for two 500ml bottles of chemicals and one for keeping the Stearman Press tank semi submerged and at temperature.
The heating is provided and controlled by two Cinestill sous vides.

I pre-wash the film in the tempering bath for at least two minutes, this heats the tank to the desired temperature.
Given the first dev time is only 3.5 minutes, I have no problem with temperature control.

Looking at the negs post drying, they have a normal mask colour and the density is very good.

I'll be processing E6 next week using the same method and I anticipate no issues. E6 is not as tough as people think as ONLY the first dev has to be accurately controlled.
Understanding E6 processing really does make life easier.
.
Click to expand...

Jammy Dodger said:
I ve watched the videos on this and IMO it is NOT suitable for colour developing! The is NO consistent agitation method and no way to keep the developer at temp once it is in the tray - the developer will loose a lot of heat during 3 mins Tony!

It looks great for B&W at room temp though.
Click to expand...

shop.stearmanpress.com

Color Processing and the Thermal Profile of the SP-8x10

People have been asking about using the SP-8x10 for color processing. The real question is: "how do you control the temperature?" So we ran a thermal profile of the tray. The procedure is pretty simple: Fill the tray with water at the desired temperature and presoak for 1 minute. Empty and...
shop.stearmanpress.com

I've never tried colour with the SP810 but there's a guy on the LF forums that regularly posts nice results (E6 and C41) with the processor.
 
I don't know what the fuss is about (that's not aimed at you).

I have both the Stearman Press tank and the Paterson orbital system.
When they are floating in temperature controlled water baths, the chemical temperatures remain stable.

I guess those who are inexperienced or do not understand the E6 or C41 processes will get hung up on their misconceptions,

My advice is, don't believe everything you read or watch on the internet and learn for yourselves.
 
FruitFlakes said:
shop.stearmanpress.com

Color Processing and the Thermal Profile of the SP-8x10

People have been asking about using the SP-8x10 for color processing. The real question is: "how do you control the temperature?" So we ran a thermal profile of the tray. The procedure is pretty simple: Fill the tray with water at the desired temperature and presoak for 1 minute. Empty and...
shop.stearmanpress.com

I've never tried colour with the SP810 but there's a guy on the LF forums that regularly posts nice results (E6 and C41) with the processor.
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Hi Lloyd;

like I said you can get good results, that isn't the question, it is consistent results that are difficult!

Tony, I fully understand the C41 & E6 processes - I have been doing them for 40 odd years, initially trying exactly the same methodology as you with a Paterson orbital processor; I lived and learnt the hard way! - I regularly post my film pictures here and Flickr for you to view; one of them is on the home page of this website which has made me very proud.

Anyway - lets move on.
 
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Jammy Dodger said:
Hi Lloyd;

like I said you can get good results, that isn't the question, it is consistent results that are difficult!

Tony, I fully understand the C41 & E6 processes - I have been doing them for 40 odd years, initially trying exactly the same methodology as you with a Paterson orbital processor; I lived and learnt the hard way! - I regularly post my film pictures here and Flickr for you to view; one of them is on the home page of this website which has made me very proud.

Anyway - lets move on.
Click to expand...

Personally I agree with you - at this point in time I'd rather let my local lab take care of my E6/C41, especially considering the expense and time investment that 10x8 entails.

Another thing about the SP810 is that it can be a pretty slow process, I remember spending hours just developing 10x B/W sheets and that was with a Paterson Orbital being used to develop an extra sheet at the same time. Think it took me about 4 hours to do them and I was just so done with it all by the end of the session and was seriously looking into putting together a Jobo kit (and to be honest I still am!).
 
Lloyd, fhs Jobo processors are fantastic! I struggled with water baths, dev tanks and orbital processors for a couple of years, I got so fed up with the inconsistent colours I would waste so much paper and chemicals just getting the filter pack in the enlarger head correct.
Life changed overnight when I bought a CPA Jobo rotary processor.
The SP810 tank looks fine for B&W but you can easily fit 2 x 10x8 in a small Jobo tank and second hand they are relatively cheap.

Lab processing makes more financial sense but I enjoy the developing.

I have only just moved from the Jobo system but can not recommend it enough.
 
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Jammy Dodger said:
Lloyd, fhs Jobo processors are fantastic! I struggled with water baths, dev tanks and orbital processors for a couple of years, I got so fed up with the inconsistent colours I would waste so muck paper and chemicals just getting the filter pack in the enlarger head correct.
Life changed overnight when I bought a CPA Jobo rotary processor.
The SP810 tank looks fine for B&W but you can easily fit 2 x 10x8 in a small Jobo tank and second hand they are relatively cheap.

Lab processing makes more financial sense but I enjoy the developing.

I have only just moved from the Jobo system but can not recommend it enough.
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OK.
It seems we are off topic in this thread.
Perhaps I/we can start another discussion about home processing in the appropriate area.

Kind regards all.
 
Yay! New toys.

I'm told this is the same brew as the Tetenal 3 bath E-6. I do hope so as I had great results with that stuff.
Brace yourselves for some strong colour casts when I eventually get round to using it.

E6.JPG
 
soupdragon said:
Yay! New toys.

I'm told this is the same brew as the Tetenal 3 bath E-6. I do hope so as I had great results with that stuff.
Brace yourselves for some strong colour casts when I eventually get round to using it.

View attachment 437419
Click to expand...
I see Nik & Trick are selling this Adox kit at a good price

(Makes E6 processing easier in my Filmomat)
 
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Arrived today after waiting some time on pre-order.

Voigtlander 21mm VM ASPH Vintage Line II.

I purchased the silver version as I think it suits the MP. I also purchased the 21mm Veiwfinder.

The lens feels great build quality wise and gets good reviews optically.

Would have loved the new Leica 21mm but the number of times I will use this focal length I cant justify it :(

full
 
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Jammy Dodger said:
Arrived today after waiting some time on pre-order.

Voigtlander 21mm VM ASPH Vintage Line II.

I purchased the silver version as I think it suits the MP. I also purchased the 21mm Veiwfinder.

The lens feels great build quality wise and gets good reviews optically.

Would have loved the new Leica 21mm but the number of times I will use this focal length I cant justify it :(

full
Click to expand...
21mm is one of my favourite focal lengths, I have the Elmarit-M f2.8 ASPH with the Leica 21mm viewfinder for my M9. Wouldn't be without it. (y)
 
Topsy said:
21mm is one of my favourite focal lengths, I have the Elmarit-M f2.8 ASPH with the Leica 21mm viewfinder for my M9. Wouldn't be without it. (y)
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Yep Paul, your landscapes look spot on, I would love to emulate them (y) but mobility is a problem, I will be stuck with cityscapes, the night sky and some other things.
 
Jammy Dodger said:
Yep Paul, your landscapes look spot on, I would love to emulate them (y) but mobility is a problem, I will be stuck with cityscapes, the night sky and some other things.
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Thank you for those kind words Fraser. I don't travel much these days so I don't get much in the way of cityscapes but I do apreciate the genre. My last real trip was China in 2019 but as it was a work trip I didn't take much camera kit just 1 X-T2 with 16-55 and 1 M9 with 35mm.

Here are some from Shanghai all hand held with the X-T2. I could have got all these with the 21mm but I didn't take it favouring the versatility of the zoom.

Shanghai 026-1b.jpg

Shanghai 039-1b.jpg

Shanghai 012-1b.jpg

Shanghai 018-1b.jpg

Shanghai 042-1b.jpg
 
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OK, so the XD-7 I posted a couple of pages back has been returned to the seller as it had a sticky shutter which got worse as the roll progressed, with the odd image being ok. So a friend has come to the rescue and lent me an XD-S (Japanese market version of the XD-7, couple of differences, the exp come is now in-board so harder to knock and it has an adjustable diopter on the viewfinder built in)

Lent is a bit of a misnomer - its a "Try Before You Buy" !!! Came with the legendary 58mm F1.2 - not sure what this lot is going to cost me as we haven't agreed a price :oops: :$

In the meantime I've picked up a black (serviced) Minolta SRT-101 with a lovely patina - I can see me owning two Minolta bodies before the end of the month :D


Minolta XD-S by David Yeoman, on Flickr
 
Topsy said:
Thank you for those kind words Fraser. I don't travel much these days so I don't get much in the way of cityscapes but I do apreciate the genre. My last real trip was China in 2019 but as it was a work trip I didn't take much camera kit just 1 X-T2 with 16-55 and 1 M9 with 35mm.

Here are some from Shanghai all hand held with the X-T2. I could have got all these with the 21mm but I didn't take it favouring the versatility of the zoom.

View attachment 437612

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Fantastic images Paul
 
Jammy Dodger said:
Arrived today after waiting some time on pre-order.

Voigtlander 21mm VM ASPH Vintage Line II.

I purchased the silver version as I think it suits the MP. I also purchased the 21mm Veiwfinder.

The lens feels great build quality wise and gets good reviews optically.

Would have loved the new Leica 21mm but the number of times I will use this focal length I cant justify it :(

full
Click to expand...
Really pleased with the results!

Kodak Portra 160 hand held @1/15s (Home developed and scanned):


Marbury 7 by Fraser White, on Flickr
 
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Right my Minolta 35mm journey is over - after 3 broken cameras (the loan XD-S was and is fantastic and still working), I've got back 3 rolls of film and the image quality is just not what I'm looking for - thats a subjective opinion, so all my Rokkor glass is now on eBay and I've decided that for me when working with film I'm going to concentrate on Medium Format, where I am very happy with the image quality. So to I decided yesterday to supplement my Rolleiflex and Fuji GM670 with another MF camera, the mother of all MF cameras, the Fuji GX680, so I'm now the very proud and very exicited owner of:-

GX680 with 65/100/135 lens (equivalent to 30/45/60 in 35mm terms), 3 backs and an angle finder

Its certainly not lightweight (4.5kg with lens mounted :eek:, but it feels a lot lighter in the hand :ROFLMAO: - can't wait to get out and use it :)


GX680 (2) by David Yeoman, on Flickr


GX680 (1) by David Yeoman, on Flickr
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Right my Minolta 35mm journey is over - after 3 broken cameras (the loan XD-S was and is fantastic and still working), I've got back 3 rolls of film and the image quality is just not what I'm looking for - thats a subjective opinion, so all my Rokkor glass is now on eBay and I've decided that for me when working with film I'm going to concentrate on Medium Format, where I am very happy with the image quality. So to I decided yesterday to supplement my Rolleiflex and Fuji GM670 with another MF camera, the mother of all MF cameras, the Fuji GX680, so I'm now the very proud and very exicited owner of:-

GX680 with 65/100/135 lens (equivalent to 30/45/60 in 35mm terms), 3 backs and an angle finder

Its certainly not lightweight (4.5kg with lens mounted :eek:, but it feels a lot lighter in the hand :ROFLMAO: - can't wait to get out and use it :)


GX680 (2) by David Yeoman, on Flickr


GX680 (1) by David Yeoman, on Flickr
Click to expand...
Wow, they were quite something back in the day though very much a studio camera, I hope you have fun with it.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Right my Minolta 35mm journey is over - after 3 broken cameras (the loan XD-S was and is fantastic and still working), I've got back 3 rolls of film and the image quality is just not what I'm looking for - thats a subjective opinion, so all my Rokkor glass is now on eBay and I've decided that for me when working with film I'm going to concentrate on Medium Format, where I am very happy with the image quality. So to I decided yesterday to supplement my Rolleiflex and Fuji GM670 with another MF camera, the mother of all MF cameras, the Fuji GX680, so I'm now the very proud and very exicited owner of:-

GX680 with 65/100/135 lens (equivalent to 30/45/60 in 35mm terms), 3 backs and an angle finder

Its certainly not lightweight (4.5kg with lens mounted :eek:, but it feels a lot lighter in the hand :ROFLMAO: - can't wait to get out and use it :)


GX680 (2) by David Yeoman, on Flickr


GX680 (1) by David Yeoman, on Flickr
Click to expand...
That looks like a beast! I hope you have a strong assistant that can carry it for you!

I know what you mean regarding the quality of 35mm but careful film choice and handling gives images perfectly acceptable for web display and A4 prints IMO.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
So to I decided yesterday to supplement my Rolleiflex and Fuji GM670 with another MF camera, the mother of all MF cameras, the Fuji GX680, so I'm now the very proud and very exicited owner of:-
Click to expand...
Some may remember Ivor Matanle's joke, about the Nikon F with FTN head, being "too great a burden for one man alone".

What he he though about the Fuji is anyone's guess... :naughty:
 
Jammy Dodger said:
That looks like a beast! I hope you have a strong assistant that can carry it for you!

I know what you mean regarding the quality of 35mm but careful film choice and handling gives images perfectly acceptable for web display and A4 prints IMO.
Click to expand...

I agree, IMO you need decent glass and decent film stock to get anywhere near teh results I crave - I'm much more comfortable with MF
 
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