OFFICIAL I HAVE A NEW (FILM RELATED) TOY THREAD!!

Very nice! Have you got the prism? I bought an F4 brand new in 1996. £1900 body only IIRC.
 
yeah, i just slid it off for the shot
...ouch! its a fantastic camera though, much better than my D90, makes me wonder what the D3 is like after 20 years of "progress" (IMO nothing beats film)
 
retrogamer1990 said:
yeah, i just slid it off for the shot
...ouch! its a fantastic camera though, much better than my D90, makes me wonder what the D3 is like after 20 years of "progress" (IMO nothing beats film)
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Well it's a top end pro beast - one of Nikon's best. You'll find the AF a little slow compared to your D90 but it's perfectly usable - I earned a lot of money with mine. I often wish I'd kept it. If you try focusing on anything just with horizontal lines (try a venetian blind) you'll find it will just hunt back and forth - it isn't a cross type AF sensor. If you turn the camera to portrait orientation it'll focus fine - then turn back to landscape
 
I thought the AF seemed a little faster actually...hehe
 
retrogamer1990 said:
its a fantastic camera though, much better than my D90, makes me wonder what the D3 is like after 20 years of "progress" (IMO nothing beats film)
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Not just a Nikon thing. While my 5D is a lovely thing, my EOS-3 is a much more advanced camera in many respects - eye-control focus and 45 AF points spread all around the viewfinder, multiple spot metering amongst several other modes. I could go on...
 
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Musicman said:
Not just a Nikon thing. While my 5D is a lovely thing, my EOS-3 is a much more advanced camera in many respects - eye-control focus and 45 AF points spread all around the viewfinder, multiple spot metering amongst several other modes. I could go on...
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So could I... though I reckon the 7D is marginally better with moving targets than the EOS-3, but i'd like a 7Dii with eye-control focus please ;)
 
retrogamer1990 said:
nikon F4s....yeeeeeeeeeah :D
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Looks nice.

Whats the lump on the back have you got a MF23 Command Back on it as well?

I bought mine 2nd hand 1996 body only and it was cheap and mint for £1100 :lol:

Would never part with it I think one of the best designed cameras of that era.
 
Musicman said:
Oh, and I have somehow bought an AE-1 Program for £17 + p&p. Mostly to find out what the breech-lock FD lens was as it didn't look like any 50mm variant I knew in the blurry eBay photo.

When I'd enquired, the seller responded that it was a 'Hoya Skylight' :lol:

[am I going loopy?]
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Well, it turned up today. The AE-1 has a cough. :| Otherwise, it's in very nice nick.

However, it turns out I was right about the lens not being a dull 50mm f/1.8, but not quite what I was expecting. Its a Tamron Adaptall 35-70mm f/3.5-4.5 Macro [09A] with an FD adapter.

Not like I'm short on 35-70 zooms, but it's rather nice, pretty sharp and the macro could come in quite handy.

[dijikal test shots]


20110602_0104.jpg


20110602_0093.jpg
 
mothdust said:
I've put an orange filter on it - do I need to compensate for that and over expose my shots? Or do I just take it as read?
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If you're using the built in meter (which meters through the lens) then just go with what it says.

If you're using an external meter, then you'll have to compensate.
 
Musicman said:
If you're using the built in meter (which meters through the lens) then just go with what it says.

If you're using an external meter, then you'll have to compensate.
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It's through the lens - thanks :)
 
If that MX is even half decent you've got a fantastic bargain. Wonderful little camera! Yep - as the MX is TTL metering just shoot normally and the filter will be automatically compensated for.

If you want to use it on a non TTL camera, or if the meter in the MX is dead, then you'll need to add the filter compensation factor manually to the indicated exposure. The filter factor - (the amount of exposure compensation) should be printed on the side of the filter - usually in the form of a number.
 
You got a good price on that MX for definite. Usually the London places tend to be massively overpriced, but maybe you had luck on your side. As for the blog post, the window for aperture is useful, because unlike many film SLRs it means you have full shutter speed, aperture and metering information all through the viewfinder, meaning any adjustments can be made without ever taking your eye off the subject. Handy.
 
freecom2 said:
You got a good price on that MX for definite. Usually the London places tend to be massively overpriced, but maybe you had luck on your side. As for the blog post, the window for aperture is useful, because unlike many film SLRs it means you have full shutter speed, aperture and metering information all through the viewfinder, meaning any adjustments can be made without ever taking your eye off the subject. Handy.
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Just discovered this benefit with a proper A lens on the Super A in A manual mode, very useful indeed!

Really hankering after na MZ-S now :D

Oh and the 19mm I finally got the jeesops UV filter off, the new Hoya one turned up in the post today so I decided I'd attempt to remove the dent - which knocked the glass out of the filter! :bonk:
 
Alan Clogwyn said:
Just discovered this benefit with a proper A lens on the Super A in A manual mode, very useful indeed!
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I'm glad you discovered it, rather than hankered desperately for it like I did. K1000 - only metering information. Canon AE-1P - shutter but no aperture information. Only when I got the MX did I get everything I wanted in the viewfinder.
 
I'm not hugely bothered by not having it, but it would stop any more fluke F22 exposures like I was managing on my Gorseddau trip! (turning aperture ring instead of zoom ring!)
 
Took me three KX-es to get one with a working "Judas window".

Charlotte: the shutter-lock is really for turning off the metering and preventing an accidental exposure if you've wound the film on.
 
CT said:
If that MX is even half decent you've got a fantastic bargain. Wonderful little camera! Yep - as the MX is TTL metering just shoot normally and the filter will be automatically compensated for.

If you want to use it on a non TTL camera, or if the meter in the MX is dead, then you'll need to add the filter compensation factor manually to the indicated exposure. The filter factor - (the amount of exposure compensation) should be printed on the side of the filter - usually in the form of a number.
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Alas, this was a cheapy off eBay - it just says "Orange" on the side :) Was a great bargain, yeah - I think the guy selling it thought he was swindling me too :D I'm running some film through the camera now, fingers crossed it all comes out ok!
 
Just picked up a Zenzanon MC 40mm f/4.0 lens to go with the 75mm on the ETRSi. Should come in handy for landscape-ey stuff :)
 
TheBigYin said:
Just picked up a Zenzanon MC 40mm f/4.0 lens to go with the 75mm on the ETRSi. Should come in handy for landscape-ey stuff :)
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Nice....I'm continually tempted to get the 50mm lens, but stop myself each time as I have a 65mm lens for the RB67.
 
I do like reasonably wide angles for landscape stuff - though the 40mm isn't massively wide - pretty much similar to 25mm on a 35mm camera. Don't know when I'll get out to test drive it though :(
 
TheBigYin said:
I do like reasonably wide angles for landscape stuff - though the 40mm isn't massively wide - pretty much similar to 25mm on a 35mm camera. Don't know when I'll get out to test drive it though :(
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As you have a digital camera I'd play around with panos using say a 50mm lens.....many years ago I did a pano with the Etrs 75mm lens by joining printed photos, it didn't have to be a work of art for an exhibition, just to show the British front line in WW1 as it looks today on the Somme for.... erm well no one seems interested today :(
 
Oh - i've done plenty of digital pano's, and they do work better with around a 50mm (or crop eqivalent) focal length.

I even had full 360 panoramas shot from the top of the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and a few other alpine peaks - sadly, they were lost in a tragic crazy ex-girlfriend, failure to change the locks, garden bonfire episode, along with 6-7 albums full of pictures, a large shoebox of slides and maybe 80 or so un-replaceable LP's :'(
 
TheBigYin said:
I do like reasonably wide angles for landscape stuff - though the 40mm isn't massively wide - pretty much similar to 25mm on a 35mm camera. Don't know when I'll get out to test drive it though :(
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if you DO go out, it will stop you buying more and more stuff sitting at your PC.....:lol:

ps ...i do know why mate
 
For you collector guys:- Zorki with Jupiter 50mm f2 at the boot sale for £35 (dunno if that's a bargain)..erm maybe I should be buying the gear I came across and sell on the bay.
 
My latest acquisition:

BJG6798.jpg


A nice condition A1 complete with MA motor drive and battery pack, action grip, nifty fifty, Kenrock [?] 80-200, Vivitar 3x TC, Osram C260 flash and Cokin filters all in an aluminium flight case off eBay for the princely sum of £55.

Sadly the camera has the Canon cough so it'll be off the the camera doctors shortly, but I know that doesn't stop it working [just makes a hell of a din!].
 
Yeah, I'm just a bit worried about lugging 12 AAs around in it :eek:

Still, I've got a power winder A on my AE1 I could use if I felt like wimping out, but the grip just feels right!
 
I've got the Winder A for my A-1, but to be honest, it doesn't get many outings - I usually take the A-1 out when I want something compact but with good glass, and the winder takes the body size/weight a bit close to the EOS-3 - okay, I know the EF glass is WAY bigger than the FD - even the chunky old FD 35-105 f3.5 isn't that heavy.
 
Deckard said:
Yeah, I'm just a bit worried about lugging 12 AAs around in it :eek:
Still, I've got a power winder A on my AE1 I could use if I felt like wimping out, but the grip just feels right!
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very very nice ................:cool:

i find the MA grip ''just perfect'' for shutter release in Portrait mode..

BTW ....the shutter release buttons will ALL fire without batteries in the grip

so you still can have a light A-1 with an empty MA grip......:clap:

PS surprised Mark hasn't badgered you into searching for a 35-105 yet..:lol::lol:
 
Yeah I noticed everything worked even without batteries. Mmmm, 35-105...
 
walsh said:
My latest acquisition

P1010611.jpg
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Looking at one today and like the Zorki didn't know the camera, looking thru' the viewfinder and nothing was happening, I expected a little needle or whatever to show something :shrug:
 
excalibur2 said:
Looking at one today and like the Zorki didn't know the camera, looking thru' the viewfinder and nothing was happening, I expected a little needle or whatever to show something :shrug:
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if there is not enough light, a little red flag comes up, other than that, thats about it. If you look in the bottom corner of the viewfinder you can see the distance setting.
 
TheBigYin said:
I'll just say this - Have you felt yourself to be short-changed by purchasing the 35-105 John ?
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:lol::lol:

no it's my go-to when I'm not using the Sigma 24mm

BTW - have not forgotten you would still like to see some shots of the 24mm...:thumbs:
 
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