Many thanks!
So a good move for a beginner might be to use the E-TTL cable,with the Flash off the camera, take some shots, and to use that to get some reference/benchmarks as to how the exposure is being set. With that information i could then remove the cable,m go manual and try to get a bit more creative?
The main advantage of E-TTL is convenience and speed. It will get the shot first time. With manual you might have to fire off three or four or more test shots to get to the right power setting. In terms of learning, with E-TTL you have no idea what power output the flash is firing at so iot's not so helpful.
When you have a little more time to set up, manual is good because you know where you are and the flash is then locked on that power output and the exposure won't change (unless you move its position). Use max x-sync shutter speed (1/250sec) to eliminate ambient light affecting things, although you might want to allow some ambient light in there to soften the effect of the flash - just make the shutter speed longer.
Photographing food you will be quite close and not need much power at all. There will also be strong fall-off (inverse square law) and while one side of the plate might look fine the other side could be a bit too dark and the background darker still. Move the flash back to reduce this effect - you will need more power when you do this, but fall-off will be reduced due to the greater distance. Use a reflector to fill-in the shadow side - you can make one very easily out of a sheet of white card, maybe 2x3ft, and stick kitchen foil (non-shiny side up) on one side. Or get one from FITP.
It also has to be said that direct flash on something like that will not look very nice with harsh shadows cast. You need a softbox for that (see the Flash In The Pan link I posted earlier) to make the light source bigger. That is another very important rule of lighting - bigger light source equals softer shadows. This too is sensitive to distance and if you move the light back it becomes smaller/harder relative to the subject; and closer equals softer of course but quicker fall-off.
You could do a very nice job shooting food with just a softbox and a reflector. Use a stand or get somebody to hold the softbox - try it above and slightly behind the subject, with the reflector in front. This gives nice lighting and you should pick up some nice highlights reflecting off the shiny bits
That's another rule of lighting - angle of incidence equals angle of reflection - meaning that light bounces off a shiny surface at the same angle it strikes it, like a snooker ball off the cushion, so you can use that knowledge to position the light and the camera to catch attractive highlights (or to avoid them). Be careful with flare if the light itself is close to the picture - use a lens hood or shade it with your hand/card. Tripods are very useful for still life/table-top; live view is good too
