Normal and underexposed on one roll

abdoujaparov

abdoujaparov

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Keith
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(Well, two rolls, actually)

Took a camera to St Fagans National History Museum on Thursday ( http://www.museumwales.ac.uk/stfagans/ )

Shot two rolls of T-Max 100. Should have been 400, but I cocked up an online order . . . Anyway, I shot the outdoors normally, but for the indoor shots I just exposed at f2.8 and 1/60s and hoped for the latitude of film to come to my rescue. I'm guessing they're underexposed by at least 2 stops, maybe more.

So, should I develop it at 100, 400, 800, or semi-stand it for an hour? Which would give the best compromise between the correctly exposed ones and the underexposed ones? I'm leaning towards the semi-stand (in Rodinal).
 
If you can still get it use Emofin it is a two bath developer that you can control the highlight and shadows with.It's made by Tettenal.
 
abdoujaparov said:
(Well, two rolls, actually)

Took a camera to St Fagans National History Museum on Thursday ( http://www.museumwales.ac.uk/stfagans/ )

Shot two rolls of T-Max 100. Should have been 400, but I cocked up an online order . . . Anyway, I shot the outdoors normally, but for the indoor shots I just exposed at f2.8 and 1/60s and hoped for the latitude of film to come to my rescue. I'm guessing they're underexposed by at least 2 stops, maybe more.

So, should I develop it at 100, 400, 800, or semi-stand it for an hour? Which would give the best compromise between the correctly exposed ones and the underexposed ones? I'm leaning towards the semi-stand (in Rodinal).
Click to expand...

T-Max films can be push processed by one stop without any changes in developing time (as long as you use a speed increasing developer such as XTOL, T-Max, DD-X etc) so I would personally compromise and develop it normally. The latitude of T-Max films are very good anyway so I think you'll be fine.
 
Cheers all! Semi-stand it is - I think two-bath dev is out of my comfort level at the moment :D
 
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