Noob question re studio lighting

sponner

sponner

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I am starting to experiment with studio flash.

I have two Multiblitz Minilite 200's
http://www.myphotoweb.com/multiblitz...e/minilite.htm
that i picked up for a song and am looking to get a couple of better heads in the future.

I am using a white/black backdrop and shoot through umbrellas.

So far results have been variable, probably because I am triggering the flash heads using an SB600 bounced from the camera.

My question is this. I want to trigger the flash heads without using an on-board speed light and to use shutter speeds greater than 1/250.

What is the most cost effective way to achieve this for a D800, I am on a budget (not imposed by me but my financial director aka wife). it would need to work with my existing lights plus whatever I get in the future (Bowens, elinchrom, lastolite etc)

Any advice gratefully received.
 
1. Get some cheap radio triggers.

2. why do you want faster synch times? You do know that the effective ss is the flash duration? What are you trying to achieve?
 
1. Get some cheap radio triggers.
Click to expand...

I had thought this may be the best option, any suggestions? Is it better to have a receiver for each head or is it ok to slave off one head fired with a radio trigger.

2. why do you want faster synch times? You do know that the effective ss is the flash duration? What are you trying to achieve?
Click to expand...

My thinking may be a little confused here. At the moment I am not trying to freeze action in the studio. With my current set up I seem to be using f9-f11 and cannot get any dof effects. Perhaps I would be better going for an nd grad to allow wider apertures ?

As I said I am just starting with studio flash so if i am asking dumb questions be gentle ;)
 
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sponner said:
I had thought this may be the best option, any suggestions? Is it better to have a receiver for each head or is it ok to slave off one head fired with a radio trigger.
Click to expand...

One trigger for the main head, then slaving the other usually works fine. Suggest Yongnuo RF-602, eg Amazon http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=electronics&field-keywords=rf-602 though make sure you also get the right cable to connect receiver to the head*.

My thinking may be a little confused here. At the moment I am not trying to freeze action in the studio. With my current set up I seem to be using f9-f11 and cannot get any dof effects. Perhaps I would be better going for an nd grad to allow wider apertures ?

As I said I am just starting with studio flash so if i am asking dumb questions be gentle ;)
Click to expand...

With normal flash, shutter speed has no effect on exposure, but it must be long enough for the sensor to be fully uncovered when the flash fires. That's your max x-sync speed, ie 1/250sec on a D800, or longer as you might get some very marginal shadowing with studio heads if you push it that high. Most folks use 1/125sec in the studio as a default. For freezing action, the flash duration effectively becomes your 'shutter speed' for that.

Shooting at low f/numbers for shallow DoF can be a problem with studio flash as it's very bright. Your options are to set the lowest power, use lowest ISO, or moving the lights back also reduces exposure, but also changes the lighting effect.

If that's not enough and say you want to shoot at maybe f/2 or something really low, then one easy option is to just use the modelling lights with flash off. Set white balance to tungsten and make sure there is no other light in the room (eg daylight) or that will mess it up.

Other options are to use flash with an ND filter over the lens, though more than say three stops of that will make the viewfinder rather dark. So the best solution is ND gels over the flash to dim them down (sold as large polyester sheets). Bit of a faff, and not possible with umbrellas, but not too difficult with a softbox.

*Edit: there are two cable options, one for flash triggering that comes with a 3.5mm jack plug plus 1/4in adapter if you need that. This is the cable you want, and not the other one that's needed when the trigger is used to fire the camera remotely.
 
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thanks again for the advice, think I know what I need now
 
The issue with the DoF and using Minilites is that they only have two settings full and half power and although they are old, they are quite powerful with guide numbers (ISO 100 @1mtr with standard reflector) of 50 & 36 based on the published spec. So to reduce power further ND filters, less efficient modifiers, diffusion screens or move the lights further away are some of the options.

In case you didn't get a manual, one can be downloaded here, though not great quality.

Paul
 
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