Nikon FM service - advice needed

Marino

Marino

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MARINO
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Hey all,

I recently acquired a lovely Nikon Fm that came with a Nikon 50mm f2.
There's some black marks inside the camera, not even sure what it is but when i run my finger across the metal line(see circled on image below) it feels like a bumb. I've tried to remove it with my nail but it's not coming off.
IMG_20220917_152801804_HDR~2.jpg
Also the light seals seem to be completely worn out.
here's some close ups
IMG_20220917_150619967.jpg
Also the lens(nikon ai 50mm f2) has fungus on the front element.

I bought both for £140.
I knew about the fungus in the lens (was prepared to attempt to clean it up my self) but the black marks are a bit concerning. The camera doesn't even have a single dent/scratch. It looks like it's been sitting in somebody's drawer for a long time.

and the question is , do i send it back or keep it?
 
It looks like there's been some oxidation on the film guides, which in theory shouldn't cause to much damage, light seals are easily available and easy to fit but if the camera wasn't described properly I'd send it back or ask for a partial refund to allow you to rectify the problems.
 
Ok, so they're called film guides. So the film guides should be in theory smooth to avoid any light leaks. The way I'm thinking it the pressure plate on the camera back pushes the film against the film guide. If there's a bump on the rail could it potentially cause a light leak, Or am i talking nonsense?
The camera was described as excellent, and fully working. It looks/sounds like it's fully working (haven't tested it with film yet). But again im just wondering why the black marks on the film rail.
I've texted the seller on ebay, just curious to see his reply.
 
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Marino said:
Ok, so they're called film guides. So the film guides should be in theory smooth to avoid any light leaks. The way I'm thinking it the pressure plate on the camera back pushes the film against the film guide. If there's a bump on the rail could it potentially cause a light leak, Or am i talking nonsense?
The camera was described as excellent, and fully working. It looks/sounds like it's fully working (haven't tested it with film yet). But again im just wondering why the black marks on the film rail.
I've texted the seller on ebay, just curious to see his reply.
Click to expand...

The film guides don't have any function regarding keeping light out, they're just runners for the film to slide across when not attached to the sprockets. Unless the marks you've found are particularly jagged or likely to impair the movement of the film in some way, then they're probably fine.

The light seals fit in the small channels just above the base of the camera and just below the viewfinder. They're approx 1mm wide along the length of the camera. They should contain black foam which will prevent light getting into the camera through chinks in the door when it's closed. There will also usually be a light seal near the door hinge and sometimes inside the lens mount. If the foam is missing or has dried out, then it can be innefective and light can get into the camera.
 
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thx for the info.
It should be fine then.
What foam should i get for the seals?
Also how do i clean up in these small gaps where the light seals is?
 
I tend to use 1mm thick foam when I replacecthe seals, but yhsts just s guesstimate. There's provably a specific thickness for some cameras, but you'd need to search online (unless someone on here knows).

I use isopropyl alcohol to clean out old seals. It dissolves them quite well, but you need to make sure you take care not to get bits of the sticky crud on the shutter and other mechanical parts.

Do a search on YouTube for replacing camera light seals, there are loads of decent tutorials on there.
 
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I would get a cotton bud and gently clean the film guides with some isopropyl alcohol.
 
I have used black wool for light seals with no problems whatsoever and found it much easier to fit in the narrow channels. Some places such as mirror boxes and the like need more than the 1-1.5 mm width of the wool though so beware. I used copydex glue in very small amounts to attach the wool.
 
I also use wool for the light seals. Done a couple of FM's this way and they work great.
 
thx a got for the tips gents! looks like I'm not getting away with buying the foam because i need it for the mirror bumper.
@Plain Nev thx for the video, that's a great alternative, never though about it.
Tested the light meter today and it works fine.
 
I buy a sheet of foam and cut it as necessary. You can get various thicknesses. The bumper being thicker, as a rule. Be prepared to be frustrated though. :D
 
@Plain Nev i bought a pre cut set from ebay.
I know, the light seals at the back of the film door look ok but the mirror bumper looks like it's going to be a pain, at least it's precut so I'm not going to get frustrated trying to cut it to size:)
I was looking up a video and that guy is changing the seal inside the prism?
View: https://youtu.be/_F7qu28BPcw

at 22:00 mins
 
Marino said:
@Plain Nev i bought a pre cut set from ebay.
I know, the light seals at the back of the film door look ok but the mirror bumper looks like it's going to be a pain, at least it's precut so I'm not going to get frustrated trying to cut it to size:)
I was looking up a video and that guy is changing the seal inside the prism?
View: https://youtu.be/_F7qu28BPcw

at 22:00 mins
Click to expand...
Just take your time, when doing the mirror bumper try and keep the camera facing down so any crap from the old bumper just drops out, rather than into the body.
 
@RaglanSurf thx for the tip, getting the seals on Friday.
I'll make myself a nice cup of coffee, play my favorite music and take your advice to take my time!
 
I've done a few mirror bumpers lately, so I'm getting the knack. I've actually found it far better to completely remove the backing tape and just hold the adhesive side with the tip of a bamboo skewer. Your fingers are out of the way and you are able to place the bumper with more precision. Once you've started one end you'll find the skewer won't stick that much that you can't remove it and use it to aid your positioning. Don't press the bumper foam into place immediately, because you can lift it and reposition is slightly if it's off. Good luck. In fact I can't recommend bamboo skewers enough. A great tool, and with a good tip for getting foam out of corners too.
 
One tip I've used when using adhesive backed foam for seals and bumpers is to lightly lick it before placing. Then you can reposition and hold it for a few moments once in correct place. Also with a few epithelial cells on the adhesive your camera is DNA marked as yours. :geek:
 
Kind gentlemen, once again i need your help...
I'll start doing the seals at the back film door, it seems to be straight forward.
i got these:
IMG_20220924_140925200.jpg
I'm not sure if you can see it clearly,
i got a bigger piece of foam a precut one in the middle and there's one more at the far right, in grey colour.
what are these for?
 
Marino said:
Kind gentlemen, once again i need your help...
I'll start doing the seals at the back film door, it seems to be straight forward.
i got these:
View attachment 367791
I'm not sure if you can see it clearly,
i got a bigger piece of foam a precut one in the middle and there's one more at the far right, in grey colour.
what are these for?
Click to expand...
Looking at my FM and the grey one is more light sealant if not perished/split etc I would think you could leave that alone
 
Just realized, it's actually thicker compared to the black foam and measures the same as the bumper seal, looks like the bumper seal then?
IMG_20220924_145003723_HDR~2.jpg
@excalibur2 thx for replying
 
Yes, that's the mirror bumper. It looks readily accessible, so shouldn't give you any headaches. The strip resting on top of the stamp is probably for the door hinge. Whilst it looks as if you are going to have to cut your own strips for the camera body. That's going to be a fiddle, but doable with patience. Make sure you have cleaned out the grooves in the camera body first and then worry about it. You need something with a good edge. I use a metal ruler and estimate the thickness of the groove before I cut off a strip of foam. Typically about 1 - 1.5mm in thickness. You will need something very sharp, like a modelling knife, or maybe even a Stanley Knife. And cut a good, long strip, longer than you might need. And most important. You'll want a toothpick, or something like that to gently press the foam in. Whilst you are doing that keep a light tension on it and try to avoid it twisting. But above all, don't try and rush it. It will take time. You'll only get the hang of it as you go along.
 
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Finished!
IMG_20220924_161101683.jpg

i made quite a mess, but the job is done.
Actually not as hard as i though, it just takes patience and the right tools!

I'd really like to thank everyone taking the time to reply, all the advice given actually helped!
IMG_20220924_161113548~2.jpg
When i finished with the light seals i had a big smile on my face, but when i tried to load the film, omg i felt like a child in a toy store ☺️
IMG_20220924_161558977.jpg
Now for the fun part, taking pictures!
I'll speak with you guys again after a while, probably asking more about darkroom techniques.

Again Thanks a lot
Marino
 
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