Nikon FM film winder

MindofMel

MindofMel

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Hi all,

Just managed to get a Nikon FM for £8 on one of these great pop up stalls! Anywhoo - works perfectly as far as I can tell - only issue:

When you crank the film advance lever forward - it doesn't "snap" back you have to flick it back with your same thumb if that makes sense. There is no tension in the "spring mechanism"..

Simple fix?

I'm feeling quite brave as it was so cheap and might take it apart / try restore (fix this issue, re-paint it, full clean etc) it as a means to learning more about these cameras as well.
 
Just work it - my AutoReflex half frame is the same if I don't go near it for a few months... playing with it will loosen it up.
 
MindofMel, I also have the Nikon FM. It is not a fault, repeat, - not a fault. In order to get the camera meter to work you must move the lever out a short distance, where it will stop. You then check your meter reading in the viewfinder, where it shows up as a red dot. Centred dot - correct. Then either + or - to show over or under exposure.
I do not have the instruction book but found full details about the FM on a Malaysian Camera forum. (Very good and thoroughly informative).
After taking a shot and winding on the film, moving the lever back in, it will stop at the position where it is slightly out/away from the camera body. Again you can use the meter display in the viewfinder.
On my camera the viewfinder meter display was not working. I put it down to the camera having been stored for quite a while, and possibly dust inside the dial for the film speed/shutter speed settings. Frequent turning of the dial started the display again, but it was not fully correct at times. I used the camera with a handheld light meter, ignored the viewfinder readings, and all shots were perfect.
On 3-4 shots on each film there has been a vertical band towards the right hand side of the photo. The band is slightly brighter than the rest of the photo. At first I thought it was a light leak, but it only occurs when the back ground is lighter than a darker subject. Dark subject and a darkish background - no light band. I assume that it is not a light leak as it should appear on every photo/negative.
 
MindofMel said:
Hi all,



When you crank the film advance lever forward - it doesn't "snap" back you have to flick it back with your same thumb if that makes sense. There is no tension in the "spring mechanism"..
Click to expand...

Have a look at Fred's post above. Does the lever snap back to the 'meter on' position? If it does, everything's working properly, and you just have to push the lever home with your thumb to switch the meter off. If it doesn't, there's a problem. Could just be sticky with disuse, or gummed up lubricants.
 
Hi guys I have a Nikon FM2 - so familiar with it how it's supposed to work.

The lever does not 'snap-back' to the meter position. i.e you take a shot - crank the lever along - then have to push it back to the meter position - take a shot - etc

On the Fm2n - the lever snaps back to the meter position.
 
I would give the winder lever underside a good blow out with a rocket blower and some say that a little IPA on a small sliver of thin acetate applied then allowed to dry may help free up the lever.

Then follow Arthur's advise and it may do the trick.

Good luck.
 
It's probably a spring somewhere on the top plate/winding mechanism that has come loose after a fall, or damage. Could be as easy as taking the top plate off and having a look at the mechanism - the service manual schematics are probably on the internet somewhere.
 
Not sure that taking the top plate off is really that simple a job - leastways not on an SLR... and anything loose after a fall is the last thing one would expect from a Nikon.
 
MindofMel said:
Hi guys I have a Nikon FM2 - so familiar with it how it's supposed to work.

The lever does not 'snap-back' to the meter position. i.e you take a shot - crank the lever along - then have to push it back to the meter position - take a shot - etc

On the Fm2n - the lever snaps back to the meter position.
Click to expand...

It certainly snaps back to the meter on position on my FM. I've never had to return it manually.
 
MartynK said:
It certainly snaps back to the meter on position on my FM. I've never had to return it manually.
Click to expand...

The snap back is a common feature across the FE/FM family, can confirm that as well :)

Ambermile said:
Not sure that taking the top plate off is really that simple a job - leastways not on an SLR... and anything loose after a fall is the last thing one would expect from a Nikon.
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Arthur, I am a big Nikon fan but 30 years have passed for most of these cameras and any number of falls, mishandling or hamfisted previous owners mean that even the most indestructible Nikons can be damaged. Even the legendary F-series cameras are not immune to suffering from problems...
 
pityacka said:
ground is lighter than a darker subject. Dark subject and a darkish background - no light band. I assume that it is not a light leak as it should appear on every photo/negative.
Click to expand...

a light leak dosent always have to show up on every frame
 
freecom2 said:
Arthur, I am a big Nikon fan but 30 years have passed for most of these cameras and any number of falls, mishandling or hamfisted previous owners mean that even the most indestructible Nikons can be damaged. Even the legendary F-series cameras are not immune to suffering from problems...
Click to expand...

This is possibly true - but a knock bad enough to do damage like this would be pretty obvious, besides this particular issue is more likely the 20 degree standoff used by most makers to allow faster cocking.
 
MindofMel said:
Hi guys I have a Nikon FM2 - so familiar with it how it's supposed to work.

The lever does not 'snap-back' to the meter position. i.e you take a shot - crank the lever along - then have to push it back to the meter position - take a shot - etc

On the Fm2n - the lever snaps back to the meter position.
Click to expand...

did you miss this Arthur ?
 
Sorry? Yes I read it but... I miss your point?
 
actualy it might be me missing the point but ,,,,,it comes across in your post 12 that you think its user error

besides this particular issue is more likely the 20 degree standoff used by most makers to allow faster cocking.
 
What? It says (to Freecom) Nikons are built like battleships (dropping one with enough force to damage it internally would be obvious from the outside damage said drop would cause), and to remember they have a standoff - maybe my grasp of English is slipping, but that's the way I read it.

Never said chuff all about user error.
 
Ambermile said:
besides this particular issue is more likely the 20 degree standoff used by most makers to allow faster cocking.
Click to expand...

i thought we were talking about the winder not returning to where it is meant to go when he winds on , and then you went on to say the above ,i may have got crossed wires as to what particular issue you were talking anout
 
OK, not sure how you get to where you are...

#2 I said that it may be a stiff winder (from misuse).

#8 replying to Freecom2 I said taking a (SLR) top panel off is not for the faint-hearted, whilst at the same time pointing out that Nikons are not known for being easily damaged.

#12 again in reply to Freecom2 (saying that even Nikons are liable to some damage), I said a knock bad enough to cause winder damage (internally, as we were discussing) would almost definitely show on the outside (as a ding) - and then I stated that anyway, the issue is more likely the 20 degree standoff as mentioned by another poster.


At no point do I say user error. At no point do I imply user error. At no point do I say anything at all about the user actually.


Jeez :shrug:
 
Gents, please, if I wanted to be bored reading a thread I'd read up about AF fine tuning somewhere else on the forum. It's just about a lever on a film camera! :bonk:

Mel would know about the 20 degrees standoff anyway, since he has a very similar FM2n to compare it to. Although some elements changed between the FM and the FM2(n), the winding mechanism was pretty much the same, from an end user's point of view. Still sounds like something wrong.

Also, as a ding, not necessarily. This is why there is always a warning about camera bodies that look exc++ or mint - they might only be good cosmetically, rather than mechanically, as mishandling can take all shapes and disguises.
 
It sounds as if the film advance lever mechanism is damaged/faulty or sticky. My F2 and FM seem pretty bulletproof, but just about any mechanical - or electronic - device can malfunction. It's just one of those things, and these cameras are getting on in years now.

I suppose the OP wouldn't be risking very much if he tries to do a DIY repair. FMs are still quite common and cheap, and he only paid £8.
 
Ambermile said:
and then I stated that anyway, the issue is more likely the 20 degree standoff as mentioned by another poster.
Click to expand...

this is the bit that's confusing me ,,Mel knows how the fm's work ,and when you say its more likely the 20 degree standoff thats the issue ,it comes across that you think Mel dosent know what he's doing ,the issue is that when he winds the film on , the lever dosent return to where its meant to go ,
 
Holy crap... so it matters not that others mentioned it before, and that I was talking to another poster pretty much agreeing it was the standoff and by admission my earlier post was wrong? Dude you need to get a life... hell, *I* need to get a life.
 
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