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l he only checked it out and said "it's too old and worth nothing"
Good to see that someone's got you worked out Bri
Sounds like he'll keep Grandad in check
l he only checked it out and said "it's too old and worth nothing"
Might be worth trying AJ Johnstone for a free quote? https://www.ajjohnstone.co.uk/
Sounds like a decent offer Brian, but don't be afraid to tell him you have hearing problems as I am sure he'll speak more clearly.Got an email from them and he wants me to phone him and have my camera ready erm but my hearing is not brilliant and if he has a strong Glasgow accent..what a turn around if I'm doing something stupid and he got it working. Anyway it would be Nikon's fault for not making it fool proof
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Brian I go into London most days for work so if you want to I can take it into Sendean for you and pick it up when it’s done.Well if Ste-S is not going to buy it...I might try these people to see if the repairs are cheaper http://www.sendeancameras.co.uk/ anyone tried them? At least they give a fee estimate, but to get an estimate the costs go up as to avoid the London congestion charge would have to use my motorbike so petrol would be £5 (for 44 miles return) or the tube probably about £7 return.so if they are dearer than Aztech it's more money down the drain,
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Brian I go into London most days for work so if you want to I can take it into Sendean for you and pick it up when it’s done.
if it goes wrong I'm back to square one.
Thats the same with any camera
Which is the point I made a couple of days ago! As I said when you first bought it, I doubt it will be a £60 repair, from what I've read it's got around 1,850 parts in it and you're dealing with 1980s microprocessors and old circuit boards. Consequently, I'd be looking for an experienced repairer of cameras of that vintage, so they are familiar with the camera and know what they are doing and looking for (which should save diagnostic and repair time, which you'll be paying for!).True but if a camera is repaired and serviced the odds of it going wrong are less
Which is the point I made a couple of days ago! As I said when you first bought it, I doubt it will be a £60 repair, from what I've read it's got around 1,850 parts in it and you're dealing with 1980s microprocessors and old circuit boards. Consequently, I'd be looking for an experienced repairer of cameras of that vintage, so they are familiar with the camera and know what they are doing and looking for (which should save diagnostic and repair time, which you'll be paying for!).
Based on previous experience, quotes received and work done, I think £110 for repair and full test, calibration and service on a camera like that sounds like a fair price. From what you've said you only have about a week left to get it for that price though, so perhaps that should focus your attention? To put things in perspective, I was quoted around £120 for a repair on an early 2000s canon EF (non L) IS lens by one of the mainstream repairers a couple of years ago (I kept it for spares and bought a used one for £100 instead), but if they can charge that and get work repairing and servicing modern kit then why should they take your camera repair and service on for £60?
Will the camera be worth the combined purchase and repair price? Possibly not/perhaps on a good day. Is what we do about the price of the camera though, and what was the reason you bought it in the first place? Perhaps weigh that up and see if the benefit of the expenditure is worth it to you. If not, then perhaps get rid.
If you're not careful then I can see the camera being hawked around in an attempt to get a cheaper quote (which might be chasing rainbows), then the original place being too busy to take on any new work when you finally go back to them, then you'll end up selling the thing for what you paid for it after wasting hours of your time. Three sayings I've picked up from some wise old folk over the years; 'penny wise but pound foolish' , ' first loss is often best' and 'If something is preying on your mind then take two doses of b****r it'! I often find the answer lies somewhere between the three... but sometimes this only becomes apparent after the event!Hope this is useful and you make the right choice for your circumstances.
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Just goes to show that beauty is in the eye of the beholder I guess for me it’s the original F from 59 onwards I have a number of these with different headsThe F4 is the best looking of all the single digit F series, sure it doesn’t have the charm of the F2 or the modern dingly dangly bits of the F5 or F6 but for functionality and aesthetics it’s top of the Nikon F tree for me.

Hmm another Canon with a dodgy batterydoor was theA series AL1 and why oh why those AAA batteries and not AA.If you've got a couple of Canon EF lenses in stock, probably the best bang for buck at the moment is the EOS 30 SLR. It has a 35 zone evaluate metering system (which works really well), 7 point eye controlled focus (which also works very well), it's fairly compact and light and has to be the quietist 35mm auto-wind SLR I've used. As long as you treat the film door latch gently when opening and closing it then it should serve you well for years to come. As you'll probably remember, I also have an EOS-3, which is a fantastic camera spec-wise, results-wise and build-quality wise and I wouldn't want to part with it, but I find the EOS 30 does most of what that will do, and is noticably smaller and lighter. Anyway, thought you might be interested in that if you're looking to extend or rationalise your camera collection.![]()

Yes it’s how I got into theNikon system again after having all my gear stolenI'm all right for the Canon AF side with EOS 300 and 300v with a couple of kit zooms but unfortunately all my good lenses are FD\FDn. With the F4 I can use all my Nikon lenses and that leads me to a question: - Can the F4 take a Tamron adaptall mount?
Yes it’s how I got into theNikon system again after having all my gear stolen
I still had at home a few Tamron adaptall lenses both primes and zooms back then most were virtually worthless as everyone wanted AF lenses and cameras.
That really was the beauty of Tamron lenses they were excellent quality and the mount could be changed for any brand of camera system.![]()
then I think why strip down a working F4 of the prism and battery holder![]()
Because you can?
As someone who has been doing training courses as a semi-retired person, you can get too much work coming your way. I'm guessing some of these guys might do a bit of work on something interesting in the future, but they're not looking for work and they don't want deadlines and people chasing them up. I'm absolutely with them on that, but it does reduce the chances of getting repairs done in future.Which gets me thinking why does someone retire as it seems a nice job at home repairing cameras.... have too much money for retirement? Health or eye sight deteriorating? h'mm
As someone who has been doing training courses as a semi-retired person, you can get too much work coming your way. I'm guessing some of these guys might do a bit of work on something interesting in the future, but they're not looking for work and they don't want deadlines and people chasing them up. I'm absolutely with them on that, but it does reduce the chances of getting repairs done in future.![]()
It's a balancing act Brian. I was once asked to take someone on as an employee to do work that I didn't want to do myself, but when you start looking at wages, sick pay, pension, holidays and all the rest it can be quite daunting. You'd almost certainly have to put your prices up to cover that, so you'll maybe get less business in futue. And once they've learned the skills, they might set up in competition to you!..and it looks like these old guys don't want the hassle of training someone young and sit back and take a cut of the profits...otherwise they would do it.
It's a balancing act Brian. I was once asked to take someone on as an employee to do work that I didn't want to do myself, but when you start looking at wages, sick pay, pension, holidays and all the rest it can be quite daunting. You'd almost certainly have to put your prices up to cover that, so you'll maybe get less business in futue. And once they've learned the skills, they might set up in competition to you!![]()
In fairness though Brian I don't consider £120 for a CLA expensive at all.
How much do you pay for your car to be annually serviced?
This will be done by an apprentice and is usually just oil & filter with no special skills required.
I haven't looked back through the thread but i seem to recall that you had a potential buyer for the F4 with a view to him keeping the grip and moving on the body or something like that.
I was under the impression that you'd dealt with it via classifieds….Obviously not if you still have the F4
The guy didn't want it as his battery holder was ok when he used his camera.
last resort would be to get an excellent working body from Japan all in about £65
but could be stung with custom or VAT etc rip-off
Maybe 25% ….still only gunna cost ya about £80
You're not gunna get a fully working, good cosmetic condition F4 for a "bootie" price Bri…...sorry but that's the truth!
Well if my alternator on the car packed up I just want that fixed not a full service of the car also checking brakes etc...I'm just hoping an experienced person knows exactly what's wrong i.e. shutter and mirror not working (could be just magnets stuck together from non use), fixes just that in about 1 and 1/4 hours and charges £60 h'mm I don't think I'm going to get that in the UK.![]()
So you find a bargain repairer and pay about £70 plus postage for 1 & 1/4 hours labour to strip down, free the sticking part, then reassemble the camera? You don't want to pay for any other cleaning, lubrication, adjustment and calibration while your camera is stripped down and accessible. So the camera comes back to you with the original single fault fixed and 'working'. Whoopee! Shame about the fact that 1/1000 shutter speed is actually 1/500 of a second, the meter is a stop too slow and there's a nasty squeak from what turns out to be a dry bearing on the mirror mechanism.
Pity all that hypothetical (but potentially quite possible) mither could have been sorted out (perhaps for years to come) by paying what amounts to a small (by today's standards) additional amount for a full CLA while the technician had the camera in bits. Even bigger pity that one of the last people who will/could repair a camera of that make and model has now retired and you can't get it sorted at a reasonable price, or possibly at any price, anymore!
Brian, if you have missed the boat with the chap that's retiring then put it down to experience, take it on the chin, sell the camera (if you can) and move on. I seriously doubt that any full time, professional repairer is going to want to take a camera as complex as a Nikon F4 to bits for less than that original chap quoted, let alone fix the fault and give it a full CLA and reassemble it. No wonder he's retiring, he's probably sick of working long hours for very little financial reward by today's salary standards. Sorry if this seems harsh, but there's no point in me dressing things up as I really do think you're on a unicorn hunt looking for a (significantly) cheaper 'like for like' quote.
I know what you mean, but when you add commercial overheads (insurances, heating, lighting, water, business rates, rent/ownership and maintenance of business premises, purchase and maintenance of equipment, VAT, tax, NIC, accountancy fees, tax return filing, etc.) to the cost of living then you can understand why people's charge-out rates are the price they are.Yes I know what you are saying but I find myself relating prices to a state pension of £155/week...must be an age thing![]()
I still haven't given up on the F4 and have tried wanted in classifieds but no reply, the last resort would be to get an excellent working body from Japan all in about £65, but could be stung with custom or VAT etc rip-off
erm I dont fancy going to Japan for a holiday to get it cheaper![]()
I do not know what you are looking at,but, you will not find a excellent working F4s body from Japan or anywhere else for that money.
I know what you mean, but when you add commercial overheads (insurances, heating, lighting, water, business rates, rent/ownership and maintenance of business premises, purchase and maintenance of equipment, VAT, tax, NIC, accountancy fees, tax return filing, etc.) to the cost of living then you can understand why people's charge-out rates are the price they are.
Unfortunately, £155/week alone is barely enough to exist on these days, let alone have any hobbies or interests if that's your sole source of income... but look on the bright side, at least you've got that. They're apparently considering another review of the pensionable age at the moment, with mutterings about raising the qualifying age to 70. In my case the last Labour government stole 2 years of my retirement as I now have to be 67 before I can draw a state pension, which is not what I was told, signed up to and started paying towards to when I started full-time work at the age of 16!
In my opinion it's alright for the 'University brigade' who don't seem to start work until they're in their mid 20s (to pushing 30) these days, but those people who've done a manual job and/or been on their feet a good percentage of their working life since they started work at 15 or 16 are often suffering the consequences of a life of physical (and mental) hard graft when they get to their mid 60s, so where's the equality there? Instead of unilaterally raising the pension age wouldn't it be fairer to say that each person has got to pay in a set number of years contributions to qualify for full state pension, and once they've done that they can retire (if they wish)? Eg. Start work at 16 and pay in all your contributions each year and you qualify for full state pension at 65... start work at 30 and do the same and you qualify for full state pension at 79. Simple!
Sorry to go off on a slight tangent here, but you mentioned state pensions and it set me off! So I can see where your coming from, but hopefully you can see what it's like to be working (and possibly planning for retirement - if the government stop moving the target) these days, and perhaps why things cost the price they do.
Well I've seen them cheaper but prices are creeping up atm e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nikon-F4...h=item3d7b3b4e04:g:fuEAAOSwuHJboyMD:rk:6:pf:0
A complete F4 is £113 (later serial number) with free delivery plus maybe VAT etc to get into the UK https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nikon-F4...=item4b5609b965:g:0rQAAOSwKLVbWTCi:rk:17:pf:0
Apologies if someone has already suggested this but upthread you say that the mirror isn't lifting up and the shutter isn't firing. If that's the case can't you raise a case with eBay based on the fact that even though the seller advertised the camera as spares or repairs, he said it was it was able to take a photo as long as you turned it off and on after each shot which isn't actually the case?