Nikon D800......

I used CF cards when I had the D200, no choice really. But since then have never. I wonder if they're a little more reliable, faster? Good point on easier to keep track of though. I get lazy at times and don't put cards into the wee Think tank case I got for them, just chuck them into the bag loose - they can slide down into the tight gaps around the inside of the bag.
 
No idea... until the buffer is full it makes no difference anyway. The only reason I use both slots is to have a back up.
 
Gary, I'm getting download speed of around 110mbs but am curious to know what write speeds to this particular card you're getting.
John

No idea mate, never had any buffer issues with them on a D800 but thats only 4ps, use them on my D3S also and no problems there either
 
Anyone tried old manual lenses on the D800, I'm thinking of getting the 50 or 55mm 1.2 from greys of Westminster on Wednesday
 
I had the 58mm 1.2 Noct, mainly used live view and it was very nice, a lens with character which a lot of the newer glass lacks for me. The 50 or 55 will give pleasing results, but don't expect perfect focus through the viewfinder.
 
I had the 58mm 1.2 Noct, mainly used live view and it was very nice, a lens with character which a lot of the newer glass lacks for me. The 50 or 55 will give pleasing results, but don't expect perfect focus through the viewfinder.

The 58 is way out my price range, £3750 at greys ouch !
 
DO you really need 1.2? Just wondering, as lenses of that caliber are always over priced IMHO. Often people don't really need what the lens has to offer, especially at that price. The Noct is specifically designed for night use, to shoot stars, get detail in really dark situations.
 
Anyone tried old manual lenses on the D800, I'm thinking of getting the 50 or 55mm 1.2 from greys of Westminster on Wednesday

Hi, I use several old AI manual Nikon lenses professionally on a D800 and they all perform perfectly.

Amongst them are a 20mm F3.5, a 28mm 2.8, a 55mm F2.8 Micro, and a 105mm F2.5.

No doubt someone will disagree with me but I can see no difference in the optical quality and sharpness between them and the later lenses.

Only my opinion of coarse for what little it's worth.
 
Apologies for not uploading an example, but I've been meaning to prepare one for weeks now and never got around to it, so I'll try a description.

When I was processing my pictures from my last vacation in Thailand, I saw on two of them a strange thing. It's a shape like a plume of smoke, but not as dense as smoke, more like light diesel fumes, perfectly transparent, just tinting the image a bit in that location, the shape being that of smoke puffing upwards from the chimney of a steam engine.

One of the two was maybe 5% of the overall image height, the other one maybe 40%.

The two images were not connected, they had been taken in different locations in different weeks. For one of them I had been sitting under a roof, for the other one I had been standing in the sunlight. Both are not looking into the sun. And both of them were taken after the camera had been outside in the same temperature for a while. And, the other pictures from the series taken at the same time as those two pictures do not have this smokey thing.

It is not a problem for me currently as it doesn't seem to get worse or anything, but I wonder what it could be?
 
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Just bought the Nikon TC-20E III for the 200 f/2. Makes it a bit more versatile to have a 400 f/4 handy if I need it.
 
Hi, I use several old AI manual Nikon lenses professionally on a D800 and they all perform perfectly.

Amongst them are a 20mm F3.5, a 28mm 2.8, a 55mm F2.8 Micro, and a 105mm F2.5.

No doubt someone will disagree with me but I can see no difference in the optical quality and sharpness between them and the later lenses.

Only my opinion of coarse for what little it's worth.

I agree. I can see little difference, apart from maybe the later nano lens coatings that resist flare a bit better in certain situations. I have an old 50mm f/1.8 series E that's as sharp as any auto focus nifty 50 I've owned.
 
I agree. I can see little difference, apart from maybe the later nano lens coatings that resist flare a bit better in certain situations. I have an old 50mm f/1.8 series E that's as sharp as any auto focus nifty 50 I've owned.

Hi, I didn't like to admit that I also still use a "Series E 36-72 F2.8 Constant aperture zoom"

I bought it when times were hard and I needed a short range standard zoom to use on a F3 which I also still use.

It's optically superb with a D800.:thumbs:
 
D800 purchased from WEX & £200 worth of memory cards, joining the full frame club at long last after yonks on a crop. Looking to finish my holy trinity set with a 24-70, i shall sit and wait and pounce when i see one appear. :)
 
How do you guys do the focussing? The analog SRL's I remember had focussing aids, often something where two halves of a line had to be brought together. Without this, isn't focussing difficult?
 
It would be nice if the D800 had that option for MF ^ - Even the fuji X100s has split screen focus aid, like old range finders.
 
D800 purchased from WEX & £200 worth of memory cards, joining the full frame club at long last after yonks on a crop. Looking to finish my holy trinity set with a 24-70, i shall sit and wait and pounce when i see one appear. :)

Cool.. was that using their website or another offer?? Also, did you use Quidco? I think that gets you back 3%. I was thinking of price matching them with Jessops (if they do that) so that I can get 5% back.
 
How do you guys do the focussing? The analog SRL's I remember had focussing aids, often something where two halves of a line had to be brought together. Without this, isn't focussing difficult?

That is split image focussing. I had it on my film Nikons back in those days and so did many other makes.

I miss it. I would manually focus much more if it was available.
 
Hi, I use several old AI manual Nikon lenses professionally on a D800 and they all perform perfectly.

Amongst them are a 20mm F3.5, a 28mm 2.8, a 55mm F2.8 Micro, and a 105mm F2.5.

No doubt someone will disagree with me but I can see no difference in the optical quality and sharpness between them and the later lenses.

Only my opinion of coarse for what little it's worth.


I had the 20mm f3.5 pre digital days and thought it was an outstanding lens. It produced sharp "punchy" results. Seemed to enhance contrast somehow.
 
How do you guys do the focussing? The analog SRL's I remember had focussing aids, often something where two halves of a line had to be brought together. Without this, isn't focussing difficult?

I believe the recommended technique is to use live view and zoom in 100% at the nearest point that is critical and then do the same for distance. It is then a balancing act.
I must confess to being lazy and usually do it all through the viewfinder
 
I don't really like the displays on the back of modern cameras. They don't give me the impression that I really see the image I'm going to take in sufficient detail.

I've tried it in the viewfinder, but found it difficult unless the light is excellent. I use glasses for reading, and if I set the viewfinder's diopter to 0 and wear the glasses, I can see the sharpness better. However, the glasses are for reading, so I don't like to wear them outdoors. And without glasses but the diopter set to maximum, unless the light is good, I lack that final bit of sharpness that would make me certain of the focus setting.

Does anyone have experience with stronger diopters on the D800 or D600? I read they are available, but I wonder, will I still have a 100% coverage of the image area, or will a stronger diopter limit the area I can see in the viewfinder?
 
Cool.. was that using their website or another offer?? Also, did you use Quidco? I think that gets you back 3%. I was thinking of price matching them with Jessops (if they do that) so that I can get 5% back.

jessops do price match WEX, but good luck finding a jessops with a D800 in store. Only the large ones stock them at the moment, Birmingham for example. Didn't use quidco, i'm not very good at penny pinching.
 
jessops do price match WEX, but good luck finding a jessops with a D800 in store. Only the large ones stock them at the moment, Birmingham for example. Didn't use quidco, i'm not very good at penny pinching.

How did you get the £200 of cards? Was that a WEX special???

Ignore.. just reread your reply to the thread... you purchased the cards with the Body.. need to learn to read :bonk::bonk::bonk:

#thanks..:thumbs:
 
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Martyn, thank you. I wasn't aware that confirmation dot appears with MF - never noticed it. Thanks!!

I also just talked to Nikon support and they told me that I need the DK-17C, I'll order the one with +2, together with the adjustment option of the D800 I probably can crank that up to +2.5, that should help me a lot.
 
I had the 20mm f3.5 pre digital days and thought it was an outstanding lens. It produced sharp "punchy" results. Seemed to enhance contrast somehow.

Hi, Agreed like all Nikon Wide Angle glass there is a bit of light fall off to the corners wide open, but take it down no more than half to one stop and you have one of the optically best 20mm lenses they've ever produced.
 
Here's an example of the strange visual issue I mentioned a few postings further up:

plume of smoke - not

W9L6RL
 
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The sensor has never been cleaned or touched otherwise, until today.

This picture was taken together with a series of other pictures in the course of maybe two or three hours, and none of the other ones - neither the ones taken before, nor the ones taken after this one - had any visible impurity, although the settings (aperture etc.) were comparable to this one's.

The camera had been outside the car for a while and should have been acclimatized, especially as pics taken seconds before and after are all clean.

I also had not cleaned the lens after this one - the following pictures just don't have anything comparable within them, without me having changed anything.

Just to make it clear - I'm not trying to joke or anything. I really don't know what this is.

I had been thinking about the fact that apparently the pillar of the bridge causes the water behind the pillar to look a little darker. I wonder whether this effect could have somehow been transposed to the area above, but I cannot see how, and also the shape of this effect is so irregular that I cannot believe it is some sort or mirror of the shadow of the pillar below?
 
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The 58 is way out my price range, £3750 at greys ouch !

Probably destined for some collector's cabinet, especially out of greys. On the whole manual lens issue, is anyone mounting anything really exotic or different onto their D800 via adapters etc? I've got a hankering for something different and looking at a few options.
 
The sensor has never been cleaned or touched otherwise, until today.

This picture was taken together with a series of other pictures in the course of maybe two or three hours, and none of the other ones - neither the ones taken before, nor the ones taken after this one - had any visible impurity, although the settings (aperture etc.) were comparable to this one's.

The camera had been outside the car for a while and should have been acclimatized, especially as pics take seconds before and after are all clean.

I also had not cleaned the lens after this one - the following pictures just don't have any comparable within them, without me having changed anything.

Just to make it clear - I'm not trying to joke or anything. I really don't know what this is.

Well personally I'd be checking your sensor and the rear element of the lens.

Different depth of field can affect how visible dust is, as of course can the scene itself. If the mark is in the same place every time then those are the most likely causes.
 
The sensor has never been cleaned or touched otherwise, until today.

This picture was taken together with a series of other pictures in the course of maybe two or three hours, and none of the other ones - neither the ones taken before, nor the ones taken after this one - had any visible impurity, although the settings (aperture etc.) were comparable to this one's.

The camera had been outside the car for a while and should have been acclimatized, especially as pics taken seconds before and after are all clean.

I also had not cleaned the lens after this one - the following pictures just don't have anything comparable within them, without me having changed anything.

Just to make it clear - I'm not trying to joke or anything. I really don't know what this is.

I had been thinking about the fact that apparently the pillar of the bridge causes the water behind the pillar to look a little darker. I wonder whether this effect could have somehow been transposed to the area above, but I cannot see how, and also the shape of this effect is so irregular that I cannot believe it is some sort or mirror of the shadow of the pillar below?

As Mike says above really. It's hard to believe it's anything other than something on the sensor.

Marks on the sensor become more visible according to lens and aperture. Mainly aperture and high f/numbers - it's actually a depth of focus effect, as distinct from depth of field. Shoot a plain light-toned wall - same lens, focal length, focusing distance and aperture - see if you can repeat it. Don't worry if the wall is close and out of focus, that's not what we're interested in, in fact it'll be easier to see if the wall is totally blurred.
 
I have unfortunately some experience with sensor dirt. I have a D600, too.

But I have taken loads of shots as this one with similar settings, in similar conditions, against the blue or sky or at least an untexturized sky. IMO this shape should have reappeared if it was something which is still present within the camera.

I had also been thinking about residue of sensor cleaning fluid not having been properly cleaned off of the sensor. I had thought my camera is maybe a returned sample which had been sent back to Nikon, brushed up and then put out for selling again, and that someone in that process had cleaned the sensor and left some residue of something on the sensor.

If the shape would have reappeared, I would have cleaned the sensor, but it hasn't, and I hesitate to wet-clean the sensor unless I really have to.
 
I've resorted to just clone stamping out dust or spots in post, particularly on the sky. Don't remember it being so frequent in the D700.
 
To me it looks like that it could be a tiny bit of thread that fell off after you took the shot :shrug:
 
Laudrup - with the D800, I had a spot (dust or other impurity) in three out of around 1000 images.

However, those spots did not reappear in another image (i.e. I had three images out of 1000 with one spot in them, and it was a different spot each time), so I am not sure they were on the sensor, or on the lens, or maybe even something really flying through the air. I guess that resolution of 36MP may show details we just never noticed before.

With the D600, that was another story, not to be told in this thread... but the D800 is perfectly clean in my book.

James - where could that have come from? If you could point me somewhere, I'd like to take a magnifier and look.
 
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Mine has begun to act up a little again. That old egg timer is back, grrr. Yesterday I had set up to do some product shots using 2 flashes. One on the hot shoe and one off cam. Every now and then after popping a shot, the camera would freeze up, show the timer, green buffer light on, for what felt like ages. I have to use this set up for a job on Saturday, I really don't need the frustration. Is it the flash causing this somehow.? Doesn't seem to happen when shooting natural light. No doubt it's some hidden setting I'm neglecting to check. This is the first time really since the update of firmware I've had this issue so strong.

Also, on the dust spots, way, way more I'm getting with this than I ever did with my old battered D90. That only ever needed a blow out, I did one wet clean in over 2 years, and it was good. This D800 is not yet a year old and it's been giving annoying spots for ages. Keep meaning to order a clean kit.
 
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The strange thing is, looking at the D800 and the D600, it seems Nikon is having a bit of a cleanliness issue recently - but the D600 is made in Thailand, the D800 in Japan. Of course, the D800 has much less such probs than the D600, but still, strange that both these models have certain cleanliness issues despite being made in different factories and in different countries.

My sensor seems to be clean, and the two or three specs that were there during the past months only appear in one image each, and then they're gone. I'm not even sure they are on the sensor.

But with time I'll certainly ll order a better magnifier and inspect my D800 sensor too. After all, I'm pretty good at this after my D600 experience :)
 
The strange thing is, looking at the D800 and the D600, it seems Nikon is having a bit of a cleanliness issue recently - but the D600 is made in Thailand, the D800 in Japan. Of course, the D800 has much less such probs than the D600, but still, strange that both these models have certain cleanliness issues despite being made in different factories and in different countries.

My sensor seems to be clean, and the two or three specs that were there during the past months only appear in one image each, and then they're gone. I'm not even sure they are on the sensor.

But with time I'll certainly ll order a better magnifier and inspect my D800 sensor too. After all, I'm pretty good at this after my D600 experience :)

Try using a Loupe to check your sensor
 
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