Nikon D800......

No issues here, wasn't it an initial problem with some early ones giving a bit of a greenish cast? :thinking:
 
No green screen or green output colour cast here either, had read about it though and it did concern me.
 
I only see it now when I shoot with both my D800 & D3 and I only notice it if I look at an image on my D3 and then the D800 straight away.

It doesn't bother me any more, as when I load the images into LR4 they look fantastic :)
 
Finally ordered a Sigma 85 today so looking forward to using that on the D800 :D Just need the 35 to complete my Sigma prime trio.
 
You shouldn't be judging images based on the LCD for such fine details like colour accuracy or tonality, and especially exposure. It's a crappy un-calibrated low res LCD showing a compressed JPEG preview. Ignore it. If the results are what you need when viewed in a properly colour managed environment, then that's all that matters. If you are also shooting RAW, the colour balance at capture is totally irrelevant.
 
Pookeyhead said:
You shouldn't be judging images based on the LCD for such fine details like colour accuracy or tonality, and especially exposure. It's a crappy un-calibrated low res LCD showing a compressed JPEG preview. Ignore it. If the results are what you need when viewed in a properly colour managed environment, then that's all that matters. If you are also shooting RAW, the colour balance at capture is totally irrelevant.
Click to expand...

What I meant lol
 
ryanyboy said:
Hi all,

Well I just completed my first shoot with the d800.

It went ok and I'm happy with the camera. But I don't like the colours on the back of the LCD. Now, I realise this has probably been done to death but is their anything I can do about it? Is there a workaround or something? I know nikon said they were happy with the colours (and they may well be more accurate) but I'd like to know what others are thinking, what you would do if you share the same opinion as me.

Oh, in case it's relevant I checked the firmware - it's A 1.01 B 1.02

Cheers
Click to expand...

No issues with mine, in fact I think the screen displays the best colours out of all my previous cameras
 
Pookeyhead said:
You shouldn't be judging images based on the LCD for such fine details like colour accuracy or tonality, and especially exposure. It's a crappy un-calibrated low res LCD showing a compressed JPEG preview. Ignore it. If the results are what you need when viewed in a properly colour managed environment, then that's all that matters. If you are also shooting RAW, the colour balance at capture is totally irrelevant.
Click to expand...

Couldn't agree more. It's the difference between other crappy, low res, uncalibrated, compressed JPEGs on other Nikon camera's that struck me.

And to call it green was unfair really; "warmer" would have been a better description.
 
ryanyboy said:
Couldn't agree more. It's the difference between other crappy, low res, uncalibrated, compressed JPEGs on other Nikon camera's that struck me.

And to call it green was unfair really; "warmer" would have been a better description.
Click to expand...

Think you may be correct, but the green is definitely there if yours is affected in the same way? (This isnt mine but credit to the OP)

Nikon-D800-green-cast-LCD-screen2.jpg
 
I can't say I've noticed mine being green either... but I've never actually compared it to the my other camera. I only use it to check the histogram anyway.
 
Hi
Just been looking in the menus on my D800 and notice that the maximum no. of shots in continuous mode with the shutter held down is 100. So, if I had the shutter pressed via my wired remote, how would I do long star trails? E.g. if I worked out the exposure wanted 15 seconds and I wanted to do multi-shots, then it would only equate to a 25 minute sequence, Woukd I have to release the wired remote lock and then start again? Also this means I couldn't leave my camera to do 'it's' thing.
Any ideas please or am I missing something basic? Don't really want to use the built in intervalometer.
Thanks
JohnyT
 
Last edited:
Why not the built in intervalometer? If you have worked out that you need 15 seconds, then it's within the range of timed speeds available, and it will work perfectly.

I would suggest that 15 seconds is too short though for star trails. Why 15 seconds?

Anyway... the limit for continuous shooting is just that... shooting with the shutter held down with the drive mode set to "CL" or "CH". Using an external intervalometer, or the internal one should be used with the drive mode in "S" for single shots, and your only limit is then set by the intervalometer you use, card capacity and battery life.
 
I'd have thought the intervalometer would be perfect for this?

John, are you intending taking these over an hour or two, then combining them all to make one image? (inc some dark-shots)

I haven't tried it, but have you seen the `star trails` prog?

(apologies if i'm trying to tell you stuff you already know)
 
Yep I know that the intervalometer would be good for this but doesn't seem all that user-friendly to me. Also, unless you switch to manual focus it re-focuses the image even when set to back button focus.
Dave, 15 secs was just an example, I've seen some trails and the information given was 15 secs x no. of exposures etc.
Thanks
JohnyT
 
Anyway... the limit for continuous shooting is just that... shooting with the shutter held down with the drive mode set to "CL" or "CH". Using an external intervalometer said:
So if I put it in single mode and lock wired remote on it wil go on until the battery or whatever runs out?
Click to expand...
 
Johnytuono said:
So if I put it in single mode and lock wired remote on it wil go on until the battery or whatever runs out?
Click to expand...


Yes... but unless the wired remote contains an intervalometer, you will have to press the button yourself.

The only way the camera can continuously take shots is to use the CH or CL drive modes... and then you are limited to 100 shots per press, and you're also limited to the timed speeds (30 sec to 1/8000).

If you require 30 seconds or less... use the in-built intervalometer. If you need longer times, or B, then buy a remote with one built in.

I use this.

http://www.hkyongnuo.com/e-detail.php?ID=274

Brilliant for the price... well.. brilliant period, actually.
 
If you're doing something like star trails, then yes... definitely. If there's any risk the camera can not get AF it may well not take the shot, and the whole sequence will stall.
 
It works well.. but you are limited to 30 seconds (unless anyone know something I don't).
 
That's the one. Same one I have. Works brilliantly. The only slightly annoying thing is when locking the button down to manually shoot with "B" the lock slider sometimes slips back unless you take car using it. Small price to may for such a great piece of kit at such a low price.
 
Last edited:
You mean longer, right? Sorter than 30s you can use the in-built intervalometer.
 
Sorry I meant that the one I am going to buy and use for the 15 or 30 sec exposures.
Just been playing again with the in-built one and unless you set the interval longer (sometimes by at least 3 secs) than the exposure time it stops functioning. I think it's something to do with it counting the exposure time or something like that.
 
I think to be safe, you need to allow the same time to write to card, as the exposure itself. (please correct me if i'm wrong)
 
Hi Carl
No I don't think you do, after doing some research it seems that adding 3 or 4 seconds to the exposure time and putting that figure into the interval time is the key. Obviously LENR should be turned off anyway or you'll 'lose' or have a gap in the trails. Anyway I've now bought a seperate intervalometer which should suit the purpose nicely.
JohnyT
 
I guess you are correct (all very complicated this photography lark eh :lol: )

Cheers Johnny.
 
Does anyone have any expereince with the Angenieux zooms from the 80's?

I'v seen the 35-70mm 2.5-3.3 for around £400ish a couple of times recently and in terms of specs it looks to fit my needs pretty well covering the range between my 16-35mm and a tele zoom. I gather the lens is well reguarded but is it going to standup to the D800 resolution wise? that is sharp in the center wide open and to the boarders stopped down.
 
Got the d800 on Thursday and am very happy with it. I took this shot yesterday at a training course I ran....

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryanjarvisphotography/8691406509/

Sorry for not posting here I'm on my iPad.

What impresses me is how far you can take things like skin smoothing etc. I can't explain it (I'm not techie like that) but files seem so easy to pp.

Here it is:-

8691406509_f6cd49807e_b.jpg
 
Last edited:
Crackin shots there Ryan. Glad you're enjoying the D800. Do you use CLS for off camera or triggers?
 
ryanyboy said:
What impresses me is how far you can take things like skin smoothing etc. I can't explain it (I'm not techie like that) but files seem so easy to pp.
Click to expand...

Nice photo. ;) one of the things I love about the d800 is how easy the pp is and quite what it'll do
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top