Nikon D7xxx owners thread

danolive1 said:
Been having a play with my new d7000 and 35mm lens it seems tobe a bit hit and miss with the focus. Anyone else having problems? Set it to single point focus af-s, 1/80s iso 1000. F1.8. Tried using the fine tune focus and was bit sharper at -4. Need to take some pics in the day in good light i think?
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I agree wait for some decent light!
iso 1000 is no way to test a lens or focus!:thinking:
You also say new,so the focusing errors could be down to you!;)
 
True. Just done some tripod mounted shots had to do a -20 lens adjustment to get it pin sharp. Also changed the minimum shutter speed to 1/500th and getting much sharper shots also. Is a -20 adjustment acceptable?
 
danolive1 said:
True. Just done some tripod mounted shots had to do a -20 lens adjustment to get it pin sharp. Also changed the minimum shutter speed to 1/500th and getting much sharper shots also. Is a -20 adjustment acceptable?
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I had to use -20 on all my lenses so sent it to nikon to be checked, they fixed this and cleaned everything - total cost £6, pretty good considering camera 2 years old.
 
Thanks for the time in replying Guys.
AlfyB - I bought the camera on Monday 29 Oct and been fiddlin' and diddlin' with it since then, had a 2 hour shoot with it on Sunday and have this morning (whilst I type this post) put it on charge, it was getting lower than would be prudent to leave and expect to take any number of shots,. I retrospect I suppose the life of a full charge isn't that bad just not as long as my D5100.

MikeySaling - You're a man after my own heart, and as we know the Actress is always right when it comes to Bishops - I'll take the advice from someone who obviously knows and keep it in.
 
I keep my battery in, used it off a full charge 2 weeks ago, put it back in my bag after taking 600 shots in a party, it still has over half a battery charge. Maybe it's a duff battery? Check the settings that its goes into 'sleep' mode when not used. Mine is set to to around 30 secs.

Phil.
 
Thank you Phil, I'll check in the manual and see what the camera's set to.
regards
NN.
 
nikon.norm said:
Thanks for the time in replying Guys.
AlfyB - I bought the camera on Monday 29 Oct and been fiddlin' and diddlin' with it since then, had a 2 hour shoot with it on Sunday and have this morning (whilst I type this post) put it on charge, it was getting lower than would be prudent to leave and expect to take any number of shots,. I retrospect I suppose the life of a full charge isn't that bad just not as long as my D5100.

MikeySaling - You're a man after my own heart, and as we know the Actress is always right when it comes to Bishops - I'll take the advice from someone who obviously knows and keep it in.
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If you have adjusted all your timers to be active for longer then you will use up the battery quicker but it shouldn't deplete on its own while off. Side note, left my work radio for 6 months and when I turned it on again ( huge li ion batt), it still ran for 4 hrs.
 
Thank you to everybody who took the time to respond to my recent query regarding battery life, this is an excellent forum with lots of very helpful and knowlegable members :thumbs:
regards
NN
 
My d7000 needs -20 adjustment to sharp focus with 35mm now do i send it back and hope the replacement is better or do i go for a different model?
Heres an example at -20 af. 35mm f1.8 1/160s iso 100. is this sharpness ok?

8170634520_b9ea76bce0_h.jpg
 
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If you send it back to Nikon they will re- calibrate it. Took a week to do mine under warranty and they paid postage both ways.
Mine was the same at -20 with my 35mm and when it came back it was at -2
Send it in - its the best thing to do
 
Seems like lots of people have problems with this focussing issue.

Not sure whether I do or whether just my technique. I do not have any prime lenses. Is this issue similar on zooms? And if so are there any tests that i can carry out to find out?

Or is another way to assume that the body is faulty (not had it 12 months yet so still under warranty.) and just send it back to Nikon for recalibration? In this case would I have to prove to them that it was faulty and, if so, how?

Sorry for lots of questions. I hope that there are simple answers.
 
danolive1 said:
My d7000 needs -20 adjustment to sharp focus with 35mm now do i send it back and hope the replacement is better or do i go for a different model?
Heres an example at -20 af. 35mm f1.8 1/160s iso 100. is this sharpness ok?
...
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Hard to tell without looking at a closer crop....
 
superpippo said:
Seems like lots of people have problems with this focussing issue.

Not sure whether I do or whether just my technique. I do not have any prime lenses. Is this issue similar on zooms? And if so are there any tests that i can carry out to find out?

Or is another way to assume that the body is faulty (not had it 12 months yet so still under warranty.) and just send it back to Nikon for recalibration? In this case would I have to prove to them that it was faulty and, if so, how?

Sorry for lots of questions. I hope that there are simple answers.
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+1 I was about to ask pretty much the same thing

I was thinking if I hadn't yet perceived a problem there probably wasn't one, but I've taken quite a lot of landscapes and shots at distance so far meaning if focus has not been 100% I'm putting it down to technique....

Is -2 adjustment really that noticeable? Or are you pixel peeing?
 
Finding it a bit odd how so many folk are having problems with the non-locking mode dial? I shoot hundreds, sometimes thousands, of shots each week and I've probably knocked it a handful of times. Its not a major deal in reality - mountain from a mole hill methinks....
 
specialman said:
Finding it a bit odd how so many folk are having problems with the non-locking mode dial? I shoot hundreds, sometimes thousands, of shots each week and I've probably knocked it a handful of times. Its not a major deal in reality - mountain from a mole hill methinks....
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In my case it's not that it happens often - it's that it happens enough to be annoying, and I know it's from how I keep the camera rather than a 'fault' with the camera - it'll shift in bag or when it's bouncing at my side, not in actual use. Which is why I mentioned it when asked rather than going on an online crusade about it. In any case, Nikon wouldn't have added a lock on the D600 if it were a complete nonissue :)
 
superpippo said:
Seems like lots of people have problems with this focussing issue.

Not sure whether I do or whether just my technique. I do not have any prime lenses. Is this issue similar on zooms? And if so are there any tests that i can carry out to find out?

Or is another way to assume that the body is faulty (not had it 12 months yet so still under warranty.) and just send it back to Nikon for recalibration? In this case would I have to prove to them that it was faulty and, if so, how?

Sorry for lots of questions. I hope that there are simple answers.
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Do yourself a huge favour, do not look for it. It will drive you mad. You'll get convinced you have the problem, then you are not, you adjust and then bring it back again.

19/20 times it is simply technique especially during testing for it ;)
 
I am not sure about this, even after reading David Busch's d7k book. If I have a lens on at/m and manually over ride the focus by grabbing the focus ring, is it ok to have the d7k still on Autofocus?

Also should I switch the VR off on my 18-200 when removing it to use a prime

Cheers
 
Yes it's OK to still have it on AF so long as you are using a AF-S lens. With a D lens that's different as there is a physical coupling between motor and lens. It's pointless overriding it physically though as the camera can still actually AF while you hold the ring still on a AF-S lens. If you want to focus manually, just do so.. by turning off AF.

As for VR.... well.. you should turn your camera off before changing lenses anyway otherwise that charged sensor can become a dust and dirt magnet.. plus you're breaking AF and metering connections that are still live. As you should be turning the camera off, it's almost irrelevant whether VR is off or on... as it takes it's power from the camera.
 
Duly noted thanks

So what's the point of the af/m switch on my two afs lenses then?

Cheers
 
I think its when you put these lenses on a nikon body that does not have af/m switch on the actual body.
 
MIKEROPHONICS said:
Duly noted thanks

So what's the point of the af/m switch on my two afs lenses then?

Cheers
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It stops the camera overriding your manual focusing. The only reason there's also a AF on off switch on the camera itself is to disengage the old mechanical motor drive screw when being used with older D lenses, otherwise you can damage the camera when focusing manually.
 
Pookeyhead said:
Yes it's OK to still have it on AF so long as you are using a AF-S lens. With a D lens that's different as there is a physical coupling between motor and lens. It's pointless overriding it physically though as the camera can still actually AF while you hold the ring still on a AF-S lens. If you want to focus manually, just do so.. by turning off AF.

As for VR.... well.. you should turn your camera off before changing lenses anyway otherwise that charged sensor can become a dust and dirt magnet.. plus you're breaking AF and metering connections that are still live. As you should be turning the camera off, it's almost irrelevant whether VR is off or on... as it takes it's power from the camera.
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Depends on how you have your camera set up. Mine only keeps on trying to focus when I am in AF-c mode. So focus, hold the shutter button (or better move focus to the back), manually adjust focus and press through or te exposure. Easy and simple. Or with the 70-200 us the focus lock on the lens.

A lot of it is also to do with the ergonomics as in where you hand is when you need to do this.
 
The switch on the body disengages the screwdrive in the camera(think it draws it back in?) my tamron has no override on lens so have to use the body switch
 
All the chat about focus issues - anyone any thoughts about why its mostly back focus and not front focus ? is that significant ?
 
Danolive1 - very much so. Just looked at the largest (2048) size on flickr and it's immensely sharp.
 
specialman said:
Danolive1 - very much so. Just looked at the largest (2048) size on flickr and it's immensely sharp.
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The default jpegs out of the camera look a little soft adding +6 sharpness has helped quite a bit.
What do i do about the -20 af adjustment? Do i keep the camera or do i send it back and make them send me a better calibrated one?
 
danolive1 said:
What do i do about the -20 af adjustment? Do i keep the camera or do i send it back and make them send me a better calibrated one?
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-20 is excessive, and would indicate something is wrong with the lens or camera. The question of how it performs with other lenses is relevant, however if those other lenses are kit lenses in the region of f/3.5-5.6 then the missfocusing problem won't be as pronounced due to the greater depth of field given by those lenses.

Personally I'd send the camera in for calibration. That way you should get a camera that's pretty much bang on, rather than another one from the factory that may also have focusing errors.
 
cotty332000 said:
What's it like with other lenses?
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I only have the 35mm, was gonna buy the 50mm 1.8 and a 17-50 zoom at somepoint.
Gonna send the lens and camera back to wex, hopefully they can calibrate it or at least give me a new one but check it for focus before dispatch.
 
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danolive1 said:
I only have the 35mm, was gonna buy the 50mm 1.8 and a 17-50 zoom at somepoint.
Gonna send the lens and camera back to wex, hopefully they can calibrate it or at least give me a new one but check it for focus before dispatch.
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Probably the best bet!At least you will have peace of mind!:thumbs:

I thought i had focus issues but after extensive testing on a tri-pod and remote release,I have managed to convince myself that it's more me!:lol:
 
unfortuantly i resold mine to pay of a huge bill, now i want to get one before Christmas, recomend me, shall i get a body only and a different lens? im buying all second hand though

cheers
 
If on a budget - new is now cheaper and refurb or S/H even less - buy body and the 35 1.8 a great combi - get the lens new if you can - its an investment at the price and s/h is not a lot less i think.
 
mikeysaling said:
If on a budget - new is now cheaper and refurb or S/H even less - buy body and the 35 1.8 a great combi - get the lens new if you can - its an investment at the price and s/h is not a lot less i think.
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Thanks for your reply, im guessing you mean a nikkor lens ?
 
mikeysaling said:
All the chat about focus issues - anyone any thoughts about why its mostly back focus and not front focus ? is that significant ?
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Probably just means one of the calibration rigs in the factory was off. Ties in with not all D7000s being off (my first needed -10, second was fine out of the box) and the problem going away after a while.
 
ausemmao said:
and the problem going away after a while.
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Thats interesting - dya think it gets better with shutter actuations or because your technique gets better ? If the former thats VERY interesting because it does seem to come up a lot with new owners - obviously there are some with a real lasting problem but that point should be born in mind i think.
 
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