Nikon D7xxx owners thread

dejongj said:
If its 50/50 then it doesn't really matter, just get which ever you like the deal off. As I am looking for a 24-70 I would suggest you go for the 70-200 first. The VR1 is great on my D7000 :lol:

I just use a Giotto rocket blower
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70-200 VR1's that I've seen are running from 950.00-1,150.00 used, my thoughts on this lens were to hold out for VR2 at 1,550.00. I appreciate it's a fair bit more but the used VR1's at 950.00 are 4-5 years old, well looked after admittedly but I would rather do this? At least this way it costs approx 100 per year
 
what setting should i be using whilst photographing fast moving bikes????

1 square, 9 squares, 3D auto????

cheers
 
Thanks Julian - I'll buy a giotto - Not brave enough for fluid and swabs !!

"He either fears his fate too much,
Or his deserts are small,
That puts it not unto the touch
To win or lose it all"
---- James Graham - Marquis of Montrose
 
Maybe a silly question, is there a way to get the meter to display in any mode other than 'M'?

Thanks
 
Hi Simon - the meter (exposure indicator) only shows in M and in fact only shows a bar meter of your current settings (speed / aperture) against what the camera would set in A S or P so no need to show it in those modes - in M (manual) you can elect to under or over expose as you wish (according to the shooting conditions and your preference) . In modes A S P you can use exposure compensation - the right +/- button on the top plate.
 
mikeysaling said:
Hi Simon - the meter (exposure indicator) only shows in M and in fact only shows a bar meter of your current settings (speed / aperture) against what the camera would set in A S or P so no need to show it in those modes - in M (manual) you can elect to under or over expose as you wish (according to the shooting conditions and your preference) . In modes A S P you can use exposure compensation - the right +/- button on the top plate.
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Thanks for the info :)
 
formula400 said:
what setting should i be using whilst photographing fast moving bikes????

1 square, 9 squares, 3D auto????

cheers
Click to expand...

3D Auto is slightly different as it does it based on colour, contrast etc. great for a dog on green grass for example but perhaps challenging if there are a lot of bikes together to stay locked and track the one you want.

Id probably go for 9 point in afc naturally.
 
Any more offers of advice on a good lens for portrait work?
 
MBZ3147 said:
70-200 VR1's that I've seen are running from 950.00-1,150.00 used, my thoughts on this lens were to hold out for VR2 at 1,550.00. I appreciate it's a fair bit more but the used VR1's at 950.00 are 4-5 years old, well looked after admittedly but I would rather do this? At least this way it costs approx 100 per year
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£1465.00 from HDEW

http://www.hdewcameras.co.uk/nikon-70-200mm-af-s-nikkor-f28g-ed-vr-ii-lens-498-p.asp

I bought mine from them a year or so ago.....they are Grey imports but with a len that doesn't really matter. When I bought mine it was cheaper than they were going for in the classifieds on here.

Not associated with them in any way.........
 
Just a little tip for anyone shooting video (this may apply to other cameras too):

When you press the record button in live view, a mask appears cropping off part of the top and bottom of the frame, giving a widescreen aspect than what's normally displayed on the LCD. It just helps when framing up to give yourself a bit more space than you need top and bottom to avoid cutting off anything that's important. :thumbs:
 
Can anyone expain how to use auto fp flash and when it would be useful - i have tried to take some images at 500 & 1000 sec but they come out mega underexposed . I have a metz 50 af1 which does support fp or HSS ?
 
mikeysaling said:
Can anyone expain how to use auto fp flash and when it would be useful - i have tried to take some images at 500 & 1000 sec but they come out mega underexposed . I have a metz 50 af1 which does support fp or HSS ?
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I've only used it in very bright situations. For example on the beach or in the snow where you need to balance the subject with the background and environment. And it works fine, actually did some testing last weekend in the sunshine @1/6000 with my D7000 and SB900

But don't take my word for it, I am no flash expert...yet :)
 
AUTO FP is for when shutter speed for the ambient exposure are above the camera's maximum sync speed of 1/250th. It's a series of pulses that can't be seen by the human eye, as opposed to a full-on dump of power in regular flash mode (when shooting below 1/250th sec).

If the shots are coming out really underexposed then the ambient isn't high enough and you can shoot at a lower shutter speed and without Auto FP. Like said above, FP mode is best used in really bright conditions (like in snow) where a normal shutter speed at, say F/8, would still around something like 1/1000th sec.

It's all to do with focal plane shutters and flash duration :)
 
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Following the info from above posts - thanks specialman for the intro. I have had a play so don't shoot me for the rushed images - just had to try it ! All three taken with my samsung 85mm 1.4 (manual focus - which was a pain) Anyway here is the kitchen sink. Gonna try more of these with some more ambient light which it really needs -- fun fun fun love it .

drip3.jpg

By mikeysaling at 2012-06-03

drip2.jpg

By mikeysaling at 2012-06-03

drip1.jpg

By mikeysaling at 2012-06-03
 
mikeysaling said:
Following the info from above posts - thanks specialman for the intro. I have had a play so don't shoot me for the rushed images - just had to try it ! All three taken with my samsung 85mm 1.4 (manual focus - which was a pain) Anyway here is the kitchen sink. Gonna try more of these with some more ambient light which it really needs -- fun fun fun love it .
Click to expand...

There are higher precision focusing screens available for the D7000 if you're so inclined. The viewfinder only shows DoF down to about f/2.8 to f/3.5, so you're shooting a bit blind. I've found that finding the distance range for which the image is in focus and then putting it in the middle to just before depending on distance works best.

Of course, you could also use live view (which makes MF so much easier, even unmagnified).
 
dejongj said:
If its 50/50 then it doesn't really matter, just get which ever you like the deal off. As I am looking for a 24-70 I would suggest you go for the 70-200 first. The VR1 is great on my D7000 :lol:



I just use a Giotto rocket blower
Click to expand...

Hi there - bought a giotto - says in the destructions not recommended for ccd sensor cleaning ? I wonder why - is it that if you are not careful you may poke it against the sensor ! It certainly seems to work blowing dust off my filters - not tried on mirror or sensor yet as not needed .
 
What bag are people using with their D7000, ideally something that can take a gripped body, couple of lens and a SB-600. In the past I have always used a rucksack type but would be open to a shoulder bag, something like this but not sure if it will take a gripped body
 
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Zharrt said:
What bag are people using with their D7000, ideally something that can take a gripped body, couple of lens and a SB-600. In the past I have always used a rucksack type but would be open to a shoulder bag, something like this but not sure if it will take a gripped body
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I use a lowepro flipside 400AW.
Takes mine gripped with plenty of space left for numerous lenses etc!
I had the 300 until I gripped my D7000 and just wouldn't fit!
 
Found another annoying trait....

Try previewing an image and then decide that you want to change the ISO speed - you can't. You have to first either press the play button to turn the preview image off, or press the shutter button. Annoying....
 
Can someone advise what damage may be caused by dropping a D7000 onto a hard floor (about 2ft) :(
 
optimist5 said:
Can someone advise what damage may be caused by dropping a D7000 onto a hard floor (about 2ft) :(
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Could be anything. Externally there could be a crack, especially where it landed. Internally there could be a dislodge mirror mechanism. Two of many issues that could arise.

Or it could be totally fine... ;)

I take it by your question you've dropped it? Is it showing signs of damage? Does it still work? Does it focus? Is the image coming out okay. Does the flash still pop up and fire? Do the command dials work? Are the LCDs still working and undamaged?...
 
I am thinking of buying a Nikon D7000 body - which would be the first DSLR for me - and want to buy a wide angle lens for it too.

I am advised here that the Nikon lenses I have (AF Nikkor 24mm - 50 mm and Af Nikkor 70 - 210 mm) will work on a D7000. Those lenses are old and are currently used on my Nikon F401s.

Could anyone reading this kindly advise me on what wide angle lens I should use on a D7000? What brands? What the actual specifications are of the wide angle lens I should ask for? What price I should expect to pay for a decent wide angle lens?

Thank you.
 
Camerafan said:
I am thinking of buying a Nikon D7000 body - which would be the first DSLR for me - and want to buy a wide angle lens for it too.

I am advised here that the Nikon lenses I have (AF Nikkor 24mm - 50 mm and Af Nikkor 70 - 210 mm) will work on a D7000. Those lenses are old and are currently used on my Nikon F401s.

Could anyone reading this kindly advise me on what wide angle lens I should use on a D7000? What brands? What the actual specifications are of the wide angle lens I should ask for? What price I should expect to pay for a decent wide angle lens?

Thank you.
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For stupidly wide field of view, look at the Nikon 12-24 f/4 if you have the cash, Tokina 12-24mm if you don't have the cash, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 if you want a faster maximum aperture.

For a less extreme FoV, maybe look at the 17-55mm Nikon, again if you have the dosh, or something like the Tamron 17-50mm if you don't
 
Camerafan wrote: am thinking of buying a Nikon D7000 body - which would be the first DSLR for me - and want to buy a wide angle lens for it too....Could anyone reading this kindly advise me on what wide angle lens I should use on a D7000?
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specialman wrote: For stupidly wide field of view, look at the Nikon 12-24 f/4 if you have the cash, Tokina 12-24mm if you don't have the cash, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 if you want a faster maximum aperture. For a less extreme FoV, maybe look at the 17-55mm Nikon, again if you have the dosh, or something like the Tamron 17-50mm if you don't
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I am very grateful for your prompt and most helpful reply specialman. I have written down all your advice (quoted above) which I will have with me when I go to the camera shop later today.

As someone who is a great enthusiast of wide angle photography (having taken many wide angle pictuers in the past) I would like to go for the most extensive lens available. However, price will determine the decision on what to buy now so I may have to wait before I get one of the more expensive wide angle lenses. I suppose - at this point in time - I might get (if it is on sale in the shop) the Tamron 17 - 50 mm / F 2,8 XR DI II VC LD ASP. 17 mm-Lens - just over £336 price quoted on the link given towards the end of your reply. That is in the price range I am thinking of at this time.

From what you have said, the Nikon 12-24 f/4 is the most powerful wide angle lens in terms of field of view - of those you mention. Of the other wide angle lenses you refer to which is the next powerful and which has the least extensive FOV, specialman? So far, I have no knowledge of wide angle lens specifications, so any advice on this is much appreciated, specialman.

New wide angle lenses seem to be more expensive than I had expected. If I do buy one, it could be almost half the price of the DSLR camera body I would be purchasing with it.
 
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I'm currently using this bag
http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-canon-professional-gadget-bag-1eg/p1022847

Which holds a gripped Nikon D7000 just nicely (when you take the curved bit out), and is deep enough to fit a 70-300mm in vertically.
The strap pad has a curve to it, so when you wear it diagonally across your body, it doesn't dig into your collarbone, and it's got some lovely chunky fastenings.

The "holds two pro size DSLRs" is somewhat ambitious though.

mikeysaling said:
Following the info from above posts - thanks specialman for the intro. I have had a play so don't shoot me for the rushed images - just had to try it ! All three taken with my samsung 85mm 1.4 (manual focus - which was a pain) Anyway here is the kitchen sink. Gonna try more of these with some more ambient light which it really needs -- fun fun fun love it .
Click to expand...
If you want super-fast shutter speeds, then I'd suggest cutting down on the ambient light, so that it's purely the duration of the flash that's freezing the water drop. Open your shutter, drop your drip, flash your flash manually, and then close the shutter again.
 
specialman said:
For a less extreme FoV, maybe look at the 17-55mm Nikon, again if you have the dosh, or something like the Tamron 17-50mm if you don't
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Specialman: what is your view of the Tamron SP AF 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 Di II Wide-angle Zoom Lens - Canon Mount. I have found this lens on sale for £374.99 (not internet).

Is this a a wide angle lens you could recommend I purchase. It is exactly within the price range I was thinking of.
 
specialman wrote: For a less extreme FoV, maybe look at the 17-55mm Nikon, again if you have the dosh, or something like the Tamron 17-50mm if you don't...
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Camerafan wrote: ...what is your view of the Tamron SP AF 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 Di II Wide-angle Zoom Lens - Canon Mount. I have found this lens on sale for £374.99 (not internet). Is this a a wide angle lens you could recommend I purchase. It is exactly within the price range I was thinking of.
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I have found another Tamron SP AF 10 - 24 mm wide angle zoom on sale - for just under £360 (again - not an internet price). That one has a Nikon mount - which presumably means it might be compatible with the Nikon D7000 which I am intending to purchase.

Perhaps you might give your view on the capabilities of the above-named wide angle zoom lens specialman? Has it got a good field of view?
 
Naturally there is wide angle and then there is WIDE angle. Sigma 8-16 those 2mm make a lot of different better not have a big belly :)
 
Camerafan - I don't own and have never used the Tamron 10-24 so can't give you true user experience. www.photozone.de might be a good place to look for an indepth review.

Of the three I've mentioned I've owned the two 12-24mm lenses and spent a few days playing with the 11-16. All are brilliant lenses and much better optically than the Sigma 10-20 that I used on my old Canon setup.

Maybe have a look at a used dealer - apertureUK has a tok 12-24 in for about £250.... good price

All three should work no probs on a d7000
 
I have used the Tamron 10-24 on my old D80. I found it to be VERY soft especially around the edges. The Sigma 10-20 is far better but the Nikon and Tokina are better than the Sigma apparently (I have not tried the Nikon or Tokina)

I would stay well clear of the Tamron if funds allow.
 
Can anyone reading this tell me how long it takes to charge up a Nikon DSLR camera battery?

I am about to buy a Nikon DSLR camera - probably the D7000 - and would like to start using it as soon as possible.
 
Camerafan said:
Can anyone reading this tell me how long it takes to charge up a Nikon DSLR camera battery?

I am about to buy a Nikon DSLR camera - probably the D7000 - and would like to start using it as soon as possible.
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Think it took about 2.5hrs
 
This may be a silly question, I currently have a D7000 but the master plan is to move to full frame at some stage, when depends on finances obviously.
I've just today decided on the Nikon 24-70 2.8, which I should be collecting tomorrow, just about everyone says it's a wonderful lens but there are the odd review or comment that it's not wide enough on a DX body, the question is do you buy less expensive DX lenses? Surely this is false economy as when I do finally move to full frame these lenses will need upgraded, my idea is buy the best I can now and that will suit me for hopefully a long while to come.
Am I doing the right thing
 
MBZ3147 said:
This may be a silly question, I currently have a D7000 but the master plan is to move to full frame at some stage, when depends on finances obviously.
I've just today decided on the Nikon 24-70 2.8, which I should be collecting tomorrow, just about everyone says it's a wonderful lens but there are the odd review or comment that it's not wide enough on a DX body, the question is do you buy less expensive DX lenses? Surely this is false economy as when I do finally move to full frame these lenses will need upgraded, my idea is buy the best I can now and that will suit me for hopefully a long while to come.
Am I doing the right thing
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I use the Nikon 24-70 on my D7000. Sometimes I would like it a bit wider but normally it's a great lens on this body. I use my siggy 10-20 as well so have the wider end covered if needed.
I was toying with the Nikon 17-55 2.8 but decided the 24-70 was the one for me just in case I do go full frame too. The 24-70 also seems to hold resale value better than the 17-55 as well.
I have no regrets in getting this combo.
 
MBZ3147 said:
This may be a silly question, I currently have a D7000 but the master plan is to move to full frame at some stage, when depends on finances obviously.
I've just today decided on the Nikon 24-70 2.8, which I should be collecting tomorrow, just about everyone says it's a wonderful lens but there are the odd review or comment that it's not wide enough on a DX body, the question is do you buy less expensive DX lenses? Surely this is false economy as when I do finally move to full frame these lenses will need upgraded, my idea is buy the best I can now and that will suit me for hopefully a long while to come.
Am I doing the right thing
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I don't think it's a silly question and think it may be a matter of opinion. Personally, I'm not convinced it makes anymore sense financially if you end up buying another wider lens to compensate. Also, if I was to go full frame, I think I'd end up wanting to replicate the focal lengths I'm used to/liked. I'm happy with the focal lengths I've got on my d7000 and if I was to go full frame would want to replicate them as close as I could.

I guess the questions for me are do you need/can you afford the very best glass and are you certain you'll go full frame? For me, the answer to both of those is no so I'm happy with dx lens if they fit my desired focal length.
 
Camerafan wrote: Can anyone reading this tell me how long it takes to charge up a Nikon DSLR camera battery?
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specialman wrote: Think it took about 2.5hrs...
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Thank you for your reply specialman. Since posting my question (first quote above) I telephoned a camera shop who also told me about 2.5 hours.

That seems to be less than the time it takes to charge up my best AA rechargeables for my pocket-sized digital camera. They are good batteries but it can take hours to fill them up.
 
Does anyone know if these (please see links below) will work on the Nikon D7000 I am intending to buy tomorrow – the cards seem to cheaper at Argos than in some camera shops. I am advised that some cards might be cheaper still on the internet but I need to get one tomorrow from a shop as I don’t think the memory card is included when I get the D7000.

I was told earlier that I might get 500 pictures on an 8 gb card (on a D7000) so, since I sometimes take a 1000 pictures, I better get a 16 gb card.

These are the links referred to above:

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/5707700.htm

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/5690549.htm
 
Camerafan said:
Does anyone know if these (please see links below) will work on the Nikon D7000 I am intending to buy tomorrow – the cards seem to cheaper at Argos than in some camera shops. I am advised that some cards might be cheaper still on the internet but I need to get one tomorrow from a shop as I don’t think the memory card is included when I get the D7000.

I was told earlier that I might get 500 pictures on an 8 gb card (on a D7000) so, since I sometimes take a 1000 pictures, I better get a 16 gb card.

These are the links referred to above:

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/5707700.htm

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/5690549.htm
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The cards will certainly work in the D7000 but I personally would look at the Sandisk Exterme range which offers much faster write speeds. One of the few limitations of the D7000 that I came across was the buffer size. With slower cards this could mean you find yourself waiting for the buffer to clear. This would be more apparent if you tend to shoot in bursts rather than single shots.

I used the Sandisk Exterme III 16GB cards which have a write speed of 45MB/s compared to the 5MB/s cards you're looking at.
 
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