Nikon D7xxx owners thread

If you can't see any problems then your camera's fine. If your body is far enough out to make it worth sending in it's fairly obvious - all your images end up a bit off.

There are a couple of ways to test, I described how I did it a couple of posts up, the other way is to use a Lensalign kit. Either way works, though I prefer mine as then I know things are sorted for the distances I actually use the lenses at.
 
ausemmao said:
Apparently Nikon may be updating the 85mm 1.8. Rumour of course, but seeing as I recently bought the AF version, I'm willing to bet they update it with AF-S, correct the purple-green CA and make it a little more expensive :lol:
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They didn't even make it much more expensive :bang::lol:
 
Have any owners found a good source for video tips on the D7000 ?

I might start a thread in here if not.
 
Sems I am to be joining the 7k club next week, bought one today from Grays of Westminster, who surprisingly to me were the best price i could find. Its been an interesting read through the thread very informative.
 
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Welcome :)
 
Tioc said:
Sems I am to be joining the 7k club next week, bought one today from Grays of Westminster, who surprisingly to me were the best price i could find. Its been an interesting read through the thread very informative.
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I'd heartily recommend Grays of Westminster for anyone looking for Nikon. Fantastic service from knowledgeable staff. Their shop is worth a visit if you're ever in the vicinity.
 
adrianday said:
I'd heartily recommend Grays of Westminster for anyone looking for Nikon. Fantastic service from knowledgeable staff. Their shop is worth a visit if you're ever in the vicinity.
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Seconding this. They're a great bunch.
 
dejongj said:
Rather unscientific, I placed several AA batteries in a row but just slightly back from each other so I could view all of them. Then I used spot focus on the middle one at a wide open aperture. Then check whether it is front or back focussing, adjust and do it again until satisfied.
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Thanks for the advice Jean-Paul, in the end I used a ruler at 45 degrees... and have now solved the problem (21 months) with my 50mm 1.4G backfocusing :thumbs: (despite it going back to Nikon twice!!!!) I'm on about -17

many thanks
x
 
HopefulM said:
Thanks for the advice Jean-Paul, in the end I used a ruler at 45 degrees... and have now solved the problem (21 months) with my 50mm 1.4G backfocusing :thumbs: (despite it going back to Nikon twice!!!!) I'm on about -17

many thanks
x
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It's been doing that for 21 months? If so, hope the adjustment was on the lens and not a default one :)
 
HopefulM said:
Thanks for the advice Jean-Paul, in the end I used a ruler at 45 degrees... and have now solved the problem (21 months) with my 50mm 1.4G backfocusing :thumbs: (despite it going back to Nikon twice!!!!) I'm on about -17

many thanks
x
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No problem, a ruler is a good idea as well. Either method perhaps not a scientific as some of those with their focus charts but it is simple and effective :)
 
Just purchased a D7K to upgrade from my D90. What are the best options for a second battery in terms of brand/price. I've used third party batteries before with the D90 and had excellent performance, so do not feel I need to buy Nikon.
 
good question, i not sure what third party batteries available since when i got my D7000 their were no third party batteries so i went out and bought another nikon battery instead.
 
Sootchucker said:
My dilemma is, as the lenses are now working OK (albeit with quite major AF fine tune), should I just leave it at that, or send the D7000 in for a check over / repair, but not knowing the origin of the camera, this may well be chargeable ? Interesting that all the issues on mine are with AFS lenses ?
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Nikon UK currently have my D7000 in for callibration for back focus issues which they have fixed apparently. They "lost" the copy of the purchase reciept I sent with it and wanted to charge me for 1 hour labour at £59.63 +VAT. They have now "found" the copy and doing it for free under warranty but hopefully that should give you some indication of their charges.

PS - this also included removing and cleaning under the low pass filter as some dust was underneath (?) it and a check, test and clean.

My Nikon 24-70 2.8 wouldnt properly focus even at -20. Most of the other lenses I have were at about -15.
 
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Beardy said:
Has anyone bought the MB-D11 grip yet ? Seems like they can be had for about £230 from a UK seller now. Still bloody expensive but I really want one!
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For me it's more of a habit. I used to have a 35mm Nikon FM2 with a powerdrive and then the F4s. I also like the added weight but it's still lighter than my original FM2. I like the grip as the camera feels more secure in my hands and also helped me with this shot:-

http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=4313376#post4313376

It's very comfortable to use but it's main benefit is when shooting in the portrait mode. The battery life is also extended and you can choose to draw power from the internal D7000 battery first or the MB-D11. When one of the batteries is flat it will take power from the 2nd battery.

The grip also enables me to hold the camera securely in one hand and press the shutter release while holding my Speedlight off camera using a Nikon SC29 TTL / BF flash sync cable.

The MB-D11 also has a central tripod bush on it's base so you you can mount the gripped D7000 straight on the head without removing it.

They are a bit like marmite you either love them or hate them but having used a grip on various cameras for years I would never go back.
 
YouMyWorld said:
That's it guys, I'm leaving you...I'm selling my lovely D7000....This is a great camera and served me well....
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Explain! Are you quitting or changing over to something else?
 
hi guys my first post here on these forums although ive been reading them since joining in September 2011. Got my d7000 a few months ago and was very happy until this "focusing issues". is it the hardware or my technique i am wondering? ive also recently bought some studio kit and i'm trying to find the right balance(exposure wise). in doing this i notice when i enlarge my photos in LR to 1:1 the eyes seem to be out of focus. even tough i am using AF-S and foucsing on eyes each time. Should i try Af calibration? also ive tried the "battery test" on both tamron lenses and it seemed fine. i have also tried the focus chart method although just briefly but that seemed al right as well. is it my technique? how do i improve this? any help will be appreciated
 
JulesP said:
Nikon UK currently have my D7000 in for callibration for back focus issues which they have fixed apparently. They "lost" the copy of the purchase reciept I sent with it and wanted to charge me for 1 hour labour at £59.63 +VAT. They have now "found" the copy and doing it for free under warranty but hopefully that should give you some indication of their charges.

PS - this also included removing and cleaning under the low pass filter as some dust was underneath (?) it and a check, test and clean.

My Nikon 24-70 2.8 wouldnt properly focus even at -20. Most of the other lenses I have were at about -15.
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Julian, when you get your camera back, can you let me know if they did actually manage to fix it, or if it's no real better than it was before. Just helps me to decide whether to send mine in as well.

Thanks

Andrew
 
cybergools said:
hi guys my first post here on these forums although ive been reading them since joining in September 2011. Got my d7000 a few months ago and was very happy until this "focusing issues". is it the hardware or my technique i am wondering? ive also recently bought some studio kit and i'm trying to find the right balance(exposure wise). in doing this i notice when i enlarge my photos in LR to 1:1 the eyes seem to be out of focus. even tough i am using AF-S and foucsing on eyes each time. Should i try Af calibration? also ive tried the "battery test" on both tamron lenses and it seemed fine. i have also tried the focus chart method although just briefly but that seemed al right as well. is it my technique? how do i improve this? any help will be appreciated
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I take it you tested the lens and the camera on focus chat etc and it seems fine but the image is not focusing in the studio?

It could be the technique i guess.
 
Sootchucker said:
Julian, when you get your camera back, can you let me know if they did actually manage to fix it, or if it's no real better than it was before. Just helps me to decide whether to send mine in as well.

Thanks

Andrew
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Hi Andrew. It came back yesterday and the back focus issue is now fixed. I had to re-adjust my lenses last night as they were all back focussing before and now they are much better. I couldn't get good focus with my 24-70 even with it set to -20 and now it's bang on at 0 on the focus adjust.
Once Nikon received the camera they had it back to me in 7 days so a pretty good turnaround.
They also cleaned under the low pass filter as there was dust underneath it (had it professionally cleaned 3 times before and they couldn't move it so was definitely under the filter) and all is well now with the camera:)
 
badboy1984 said:
I take it you tested the lens and the camera on focus chat etc and it seems fine but the image is not focusing in the studio?

It could be the technique i guess.
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just wondering what i could do to improve my technique. like i said i am already pointing at eyes, focus lock then recompose and shoot but this is not working??
 
cybergools said:
just wondering what i could do to improve my technique. like i said i am already pointing at eyes, focus lock then recompose and shoot but this is not working??
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100% in LR and focus/recompose at small F numbers is likely to be out of focus. The question is: is it out of focus enough to notice when you print.
 
cybergools said:
just wondering what i could do to improve my technique. like i said i am already pointing at eyes, focus lock then recompose and shoot but this is not working??
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Instead of recomposing you could try to shift the focal point to avoid making mistakes. Also if you shoot wide open the chance of making a mistake is greater. Likewise if your shutter speed is low.

These are guesses of course without seeing the photos and the exif.
 
JulesP said:
Hi Andrew. It came back yesterday and the back focus issue is now fixed. I had to re-adjust my lenses last night as they were all back focussing before and now they are much better. I couldn't get good focus with my 24-70 even with it set to -20 and now it's bang on at 0 on the focus adjust.
Once Nikon received the camera they had it back to me in 7 days so a pretty good turnaround.
They also cleaned under the low pass filter as there was dust underneath it (had it professionally cleaned 3 times before and they couldn't move it so was definitely under the filter) and all is well now with the camera:)
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Great to know Julian, especially as I sent mine off to them today :lol:
 
dejongj said:
Instead of recomposing you could try to shift the focal point to avoid making mistakes. Also if you shoot wide open the chance of making a mistake is greater. Likewise if your shutter speed is low.

These are guesses of course without seeing the photos and the exif.
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i'll try to post some pics in the next few days as ive got a few long working days ahead
 
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I'm totally stunned with the D7000 and high ISO. I was messing around the other day and took a photo of the dog at 2500 ISO and it would actually still be usable!!! I used to have nightmares about going over 800 ISO on my D60 so I'm amazed. Now all I need is a day with enough light to test it at ISO 100.
 
I'm still wading through manuals after getting mine late on Tuesday, but It seems a very impressive bit of kit.
 
GeordieLass said:
I'm totally stunned with the D7000 and high ISO. I was messing around the other day and took a photo of the dog at 2500 ISO and it would actually still be usable!!! I used to have nightmares about going over 800 ISO on my D60 so I'm amazed. Now all I need is a day with enough light to test it at ISO 100.
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It's still plenty useable at ISO3200 as well, and even higher with a bit of noise reduction!

This shot was taken handheld, at 1/20th and ISO3200.


Isaacs by JonTaylor71, on Flickr

The D7000 is awesome at high ISO and is probably best out of all the crop sensor SLRs.
 
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Northstander said:
It's still plenty useable at ISO3200 as well, and even higher with a bit of noise reduction!

This shot was taken handheld, at 1/20th and ISO3200.
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That's pretty amazing!


But on a side note, I wondered if someone can help?

I went out last night to try some star trails and try the interval timer. I set the interval for 5 seconds and told the camera to do x (number irrelevant since I tried a fair few) exposures of 30 seconds but I couldn't get it to take more than 2 photos in a row. I know it can and I had the right numbers in the right places because I've tested it out at home and done a whole series of photos.

Was this just a case of I wasn't giving it enough time to write to the SD card (a class 10 card) between shots and I ran into the buffer? But then why didn't it carry on when the buffer was cleared instead of just stopping? I'm very confused!
 
GeordieLass said:
That's pretty amazing!


But on a side note, I wondered if someone can help?

I went out last night to try some star trails and try the interval timer. I set the interval for 5 seconds and told the camera to do x (number irrelevant since I tried a fair few) exposures of 30 seconds but I couldn't get it to take more than 2 photos in a row. I know it can and I had the right numbers in the right places because I've tested it out at home and done a whole series of photos.

Was this just a case of I wasn't giving it enough time to write to the SD card (a class 10 card) between shots and I ran into the buffer? But then why didn't it carry on when the buffer was cleared instead of just stopping? I'm very confused!
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Does the D7000 have a long exposure noise reduction feature (Canon user here). If so, it will take a second dark picture of exactly the same length as the exposed picture after each shot. It may be this that is causing the problem.
 
arad85 said:
Does the D7000 have a long exposure noise reduction feature (Canon user here). If so, it will take a second dark picture of exactly the same length as the exposed picture after each shot. It may be this that is causing the problem.
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It does but I'm fairly sure it's turned off.
*goes to check* Long exposure NR is OFF (that's the one with the 2nd picture, right?) but High ISO NR is 'normal'. Should that be off too?
There was no problem if I just stood and released the shutter each time by remote (leaving even less of a gap) but it didn't want to do it by itself.
 
GeordieLass said:
It does but I'm fairly sure it's turned off.
*goes to check* Long exposure NR is OFF (that's the one with the 2nd picture, right?) but High ISO NR is 'normal'. Should that be off too?
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Yup, long exposure NR is the one with the second picture. High ISO NR is just the strength of processing done on the JPEG. It won't be that...
 
GeordieLass said:
That's pretty amazing!


But on a side note, I wondered if someone can help?

I went out last night to try some star trails and try the interval timer. I set the interval for 5 seconds and told the camera to do x (number irrelevant since I tried a fair few) exposures of 30 seconds but I couldn't get it to take more than 2 photos in a row. I know it can and I had the right numbers in the right places because I've tested it out at home and done a whole series of photos.

Was this just a case of I wasn't giving it enough time to write to the SD card (a class 10 card) between shots and I ran into the buffer? But then why didn't it carry on when the buffer was cleared instead of just stopping? I'm very confused!
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the interval needs to be at least the same length as the total exposure time per interval.
 
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If you look on page 46 of this thread (I think) there is an explanation for the settings on using the intervalometer.
I asked how to use it as I was struggling!
 
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