Nikon D7xxx owners thread

phil8139 said:
I got this one from fleabay, Great quality and does what it says on the tin. Had it for a few months and have no problems at all. Even has the battery chamber for AA's in case of emergencies.
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I've read several reports that the control wheels move the wrong way is this one correct?

Another consideration, and it may have it which would be good, is the re enforcement of the tripod mount. I would feel safer if that is there like with the original metal version especially when used together with something like a black rapid strap.

Just some thoughts.
 
dejongj said:
I must admit that I didn't get my grip for the battery but primarily for portrait work. I find that more comfortable to hold with the shutter button and control wheels upright.
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Likewise.....especially with heavier lenses.
 
gingerweasel said:
2011-08-31_dsc0062_web.jpg


Nothing special just a snapshot to test the camera. I won't get to really test it until the weekend. I'm fairly impressed with noise control at higher ISO settings, this isn't bad for 2800 and I'm sure lightroom could do a good cleanup job if I needed it to.
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Was that shot RAW or JPEG ?
 
Ah, the portrait grip is something I hadn't considered, but can see how useful it would be.

I went to the store....:love::love::love:
I think I've worked out how the Scheimpflug rule works, so I'll be able to start using the lens in anger soon. It's ridiculously awesome, even though my exposures were horribly off as i was concentrating on trying to work out how to use the thing.:love::love:


practice 1 by ausemmao, on Flickr


practice 2 by ausemmao, on Flickr


Practice 4 by ausemmao, on Flickr

And an ISO 3200 one


Practice 5 by ausemmao, on Flickr

Hunger is a state of mind, hunger is a state of mind....
 
dejongj said:
I've read several reports that the control wheels move the wrong way is this one correct?

Another consideration, and it may have it which would be good, is the re enforcement of the tripod mount. I would feel safer if that is there like with the original metal version especially when used together with something like a black rapid strap.

Just some thoughts.
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I can confirm that the wheels do move the wrong way, although looking through the viewfinder you notice and adjust. Just had a look at the tripod mount, it has a heavy duty washer and seems very solid. HTH :thumbs:
 
Just done some AF fine tuning..........

On a calibration test target.....
Nikkor....10-24..plus 9
Nikkor....16-85..minus 6
Nikkor....55-200..minus 7

On real subjects...........
Nikkor....10-24..plus 6
Nikkor....16-85..minus 6
Nikkor....55-200..minus 7

The difference of plus 9 to plus 6 for the 10-24 I put down to operator error.
It aint easy doing a focus test on a UWA.

What have I learnt.....do AF fine tuning on 'real' subjects not calibration targets. :shrug:

D in W
 
Be careful with the 10-24, especially if you're testing it at the wide end. I dialed in a similar adjustment as you, and it seemed to work for the wide end, but at 24mm it would end up focusing well past infinity.

If you focus at the wide end, then this lens is often a bit soft, however by zooming to 24mm, focusing, and then going back to 10mm to compose and take the shot you can improve the sharpness no end.

My guess is that with these UWAs there just isn't enough detail and information at the wide end for the focus engine to be able to really accurately focus.

As I said in a previous thread, I've basically turned off the micro focus adjustment now, as I realise that in the majority of cases it was me that was the problem, and not the camera/lens
 
Owned mine for a few months and love it, Huge step up from my d3000, since i have had this camera i have found my images have improved loads, can change setting on the fly so much quicker and i find myself wanting to get out and use it a lot more than i did my old d3000, Paired with a trusty 50mm 1.8 its an unstoppable camera.

got a Meike battery grip for it as well which i cannot fault for the price, I also find it balances out the camera nicely too.
 
I recently did some long exposure stuff with my D7000 which has raised some questions which i am hoping some of you experts on here may be able to help answer for me and set my mind at ease!:)
Whilst reviewing my images on my PC at 100% there were lots of random bright Red,Green and Blue pixels all over.
I am assuming that this is long exposure noise!
My question is my assumption correct, and if so is this normal?
I noted that exposures of 30 secs or less were not as badly affected as exposures of 1 min +.
Will the long exposure noise reduction feature in camera help correct this?
I am aware that this will double my exposure times so my next question is there any sofware that i can use in PP that will do the same job with out me having to double my exposure times?
 
Just watched a preview of the next episode of Strike Back Project Dawn and one of the characters was using a D7000.....

I know, sad.....:D
 
cotty332000 said:
I recently did some long exposure stuff with my D7000 which has raised some questions which i am hoping some of you experts on here may be able to help answer for me and set my mind at ease!:)
Whilst reviewing my images on my PC at 100% there were lots of random bright Red,Green and Blue pixels all over.
I am assuming that this is long exposure noise!
My question is my assumption correct, and if so is this normal?
I noted that exposures of 30 secs or less were not as badly affected as exposures of 1 min +.
Will the long exposure noise reduction feature in camera help correct this?
I am aware that this will double my exposure times so my next question is there any sofware that i can use in PP that will do the same job with out me having to double my exposure times?
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Have you updated your firmware? There was an update regarding some of this iirc
 
I have done 1 st update but not most recent one!
I am on version 1.01,I will update to most recent and see what happens although I'm pretty sure version 1.02 hasn't got any NR improvements apart from you can run LENR on exposures from 1 sec were as before it was from 8 sec onwards!
So maybe people have been having LE noise issues from 1 sec onwards!
 
dejongj said:
Have you updated your firmware? There was an update regarding some of this iirc
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I believe the 1.02 firmware update just makes the long exposure noise reduction kick in after an exposure of 1 second rather than 8 seconds - I may be wrong, but I remember reading that somewhere.

The fact of the matter is that while the D7000's sensor is pretty damned good at high ISO, it doesn't appear to fair so well with the long exposure work. It's not that it's particularly bad, just not as good as the D90 was/is IME. That said, it's still a hell of a lot better than my ancient D40x with it's CCD sensor.

With long exposure work hot pixels are a fact of life. You have two choices in terms of dealing with them. First is to turn on long exposure noise reduction, however this requires that the camera immediately takes a second exposure of equal length, but this time with the shutter closed. It then compares the two exposures and maps out the hot pixels. The second is to remove them in PP - my preferred choice as you then don't have to wait for the camera to finish.
 
Slaphead said:
I believe the 1.02 firmware update just makes the long exposure noise reduction kick in after an exposure of 1 second rather than 8 seconds - I may be wrong, but I remember reading that somewhere.

The fact of the matter is that while the D7000's sensor is pretty damned good at high ISO, it doesn't appear to fair so well with the long exposure work. It's not that it's particularly bad, just not as good as the D90 was/is IME. That said, it's still a hell of a lot better than my ancient D40x with it's CCD sensor.

With long exposure work hot pixels are a fact of life. You have two choices in terms of dealing with them. First is to turn on long exposure noise reduction, however this requires that the camera immediately takes a second exposure of equal length, but this time with the shutter closed. It then compares the two exposures and maps out the hot pixels. The second is to remove them in PP - my preferred choice as you then don't have to wait for the camera to finish.
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What software do you use in PP to remove Long Exposure Noise?
 
cotty332000 said:
What software do you use in PP to remove Long Exposure Noise?
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I use Aperture on my Mac. In fact the latest version seems to home in on hot pixels and knock a lot of them out automatically. I guess it's able to do this because hot pixels seem to have a pretty distinct form. A lot of the time they appear as a small cross rather than just one bright pixel. With the ones it's failed to remove a simple clone or repair operation gets rid of them.
 
I've had a few strange focusing issues on my D7000, i've been told to try this way of focusing using AF-ON and staying well clear of the very poor 3D focusing, anyone else using this technique as demo'd in the vid below ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WyPv1bLkwqA
 
Slaphead said:
I use Aperture on my Mac. In fact the latest version seems to home in on hot pixels and knock a lot of them out automatically. I guess it's able to do this because hot pixels seem to have a pretty distinct form. A lot of the time they appear as a small cross rather than just one bright pixel. With the ones it's failed to remove a simple clone or repair operation gets rid of them.
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Thanks for that!:)
It was the first time i have done any long exposure with this camera and was suprised at how bad the noise was and wondering if i had a duff one!
Did a little experiment today!
Lens cap on!30sec exposure a few bright pixels,1 min 15 sec exposure loads of bright pixels!
1 minute 15 seconds with Long exposure noise eduction activated in camera no bright pixels!;)
So at least it works but i will explore aperture I dont want to double up the exposure times on location!
 
The23rdman said:
I find the D7000 too small to use this method.
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Agreed, and being a left eye shooter makes it even more inconvinient. If only Nikon would put a seperate "AF-ON" button on the top end consumer gear.
 
Totally agree. I'm a left-eye shooter too.
 
mikeyw said:
I've had a few strange focusing issues on my D7000, i've been told to try this way of focusing using AF-ON and staying well clear of the very poor 3D focusing, anyone else using this technique as demo'd in the vid below ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WyPv1bLkwqA
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I've been using that technique since day one :) But can see left eye users might not find it comfortable, but then again everything is biased for right eye users anyway...

PS. Don't see the relationship between this technique and 'staying well clear of the very poor 3D focusing'. I use 3D focusing quite a bit with erratic movement of animals and my children :) It works very well for me.
 
Used 3D on a child portrait shoot with disastrous results, unless the subject is moving rapidly i'm staying well clear of it...cyclists, BIF, cars maybe
 
Must admit that I would never consider using 3D on a portrait shoot, not enough movement to warrant that I would have thought...
 
in hindsight i realise that but it was a young toddler so thought it would help.....it didn't !!
 
3D works if you have a moderate sized (in the viewfinder) subjeect on a differently coloured background. If there are too many invdividual things of the same colour, it doesn't work as well. So for BIF in can be pretty sweet, for football less so. For following a toddler around, 9 (21 works if it's not too cluttered) point dynamic with focus delay off or single point dynamic with focus lock-on set to 2 are your best bets IMO.

Cavern (is at ISO3200)



I 2 (:love: the 24mm PC-E, though I have to say it is the first lens that has made me seriously consider saving for a full frame. Maybe that would go away if Nikon bootlegged Canon's 17mm TS :p ) The...artifacting on the edge of the Eye is because of the uneven edge lighting on some of the pods, the only way to even it out is to do a full revolution (30 minute) exposure. Worth a reshoot?



Tunnel Vision (PC-E again)

 
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Got my D7000 back from Nikon today :)
They re calibrated it to help fix the back focussing issue. Will give it a proper testing over next few days and fingers crossed!

Have to say Calumet in Belfast have been great about it, good customer service!
 
pinkjay said:
Got my D7000 back from Nikon today :)
They re calibrated it to help fix the back focussing issue. Will give it a proper testing over next few days and fingers crossed!

Have to say Calumet in Belfast have been great about it, good customer service!
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Good news mate. Enjoy it, I am still trying to work it out!!
 
brett23 said:
Good news mate. Enjoy it, I am still trying to work it out!!
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:thankyou: I had a lend of their D7000 whilst mine was away so i've been getting to grips with it, it is a step up from the D5000 but a fabulous step! Happy shooting :)
 
ausemmao said:
3D works if you have a moderate sized (in the viewfinder) subjeect on a differently coloured background. If there are too many invdividual things of the same colour, it doesn't work as well. So for BIF in can be pretty sweet, for football less so. For following a toddler around, 9 (21 works if it's not too cluttered) point dynamic with focus delay off or single point dynamic with focus lock-on set to 2 are your best bets IMO.

Cavern (is at ISO3200)



I 2 (:love: the 24mm PC-E, though I have to say it is the first lens that has made me seriously consider saving for a full frame. Maybe that would go away if Nikon bootlegged Canon's 17mm TS :p ) The...artifacting on the edge of the Eye is because of the uneven edge lighting on some of the pods, the only way to even it out is to do a full revolution (30 minute) exposure. Worth a reshoot?



Tunnel Vision (PC-E again)

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They are lovely shots, what lens were you using?
 
Anyone use this lens on their D7000? How does it perform?

Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di II LD IF mkII + motor (Nikon Fit)

I don't have the pennies for the Nikon version :(
 
Yes, absolutely fine. Just stay clear from the VC version, strictly non-VC. I tried two VC versions both on two different D7000 bodies and they just don't play nicely together. The non-VC is absolutely fine.

Here is a photo straight out of camera that I have uploaded already.

1.

_DSC7850 by JP de Jong, on Flickr
 
dejongj said:
Yes, absolutely fine. Just stay clear from the VC version, strictly non-VC. I tried two VC versions both on two different D7000 bodies and they just don't play nicely together. The non-VC is absolutely fine.
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Thanks for that. It was the non VC version I was looking at from Park Cameras or WEX. Think i'll go for it :)
 
Yes!
Had a little play this weekend.
Great service from WEX,ordered Monday on free 4 day delivery and delivered bang on time!
They had 3 left in stock after mine!
 
AdamK said:
They are lovely shots, what lens were you using?
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Thanks. It was the 24mm PC-E.

The Tamron 17-50 is a great lens. Although I'm using it less and less now (I don't seem to be between 30 and 50 all that often), when I do want to use it it's hard to beat.

I miss my 70-200 :(
 
Had a chance to try out the D7000 in a studio setting last night. I'm fairly happy with it but the viewfinder is still bugging me and the lack of a PC Sync input made things more of a pain than they had to be.

I've posted the pictures here.
 
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