Nikon D7xxx owners thread

Spend money saved on good glass
Best advice so far. :)

Glass could be with you a couple of decades or more. Bodies will get changed much more often.
 
Well the increased topcashback cashback of 6% at Jessops has finally made me bite the bullet and order a D7000 body as an upgrade from my 6 year old D70. Collecting it Tuesday :)
 
Camera arrived yesterday! I'm one happy owner of a d7k! :)
 
Anyone using a D7000 with the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 and have any opinions on it? Thinking about that as a possible upgrade.

Not to bang on about it, but... anyone...? :help:

Also, anyone experienced any bad stuff regarding the autofocus? I was reading this thread over at Nikon Rumors (link here) and was a bit concerned, especially since I do a lot of autofocusing in low light. Some of the people that post on NR are a bit, well, to be taken with a pinch of salt, but was wondering whether anyone here had any comments?
 
Well freecom2, this is why I'm reading this forum, it's been a really bad day for me! I went to a wedding today, and all my pics have come out really blurred and I'm pretty annoyed really, as I normally do a good job of photos, I'm not amazing by any stretch but I'm certainly no slouch. Nothing would focus today, and generally I have come home and feel pants - everything was soft, the autofocus was all over the shop etc.
People say that it's because it's more megapixels that it's not forgiving etc but it's pretty much ruined my day :(
 
Well freecom2, this is why I'm reading this forum, it's been a really bad day for me!

Sorry to hear it Jonty. What autofocus settings are you using and what lenses? I'm hoping this isn't a massive problem because I'm quite a fan of Nikon's AFing, my D40 autofocuses like someone just sat on dynamite...
 
emyllis said:
Well freecom2, this is why I'm reading this forum, it's been a really bad day for me! I went to a wedding today, and all my pics have come out really blurred and I'm pretty annoyed really, as I normally do a good job of photos, I'm not amazing by any stretch but I'm certainly no slouch. Nothing would focus today, and generally I have come home and feel pants - everything was soft, the autofocus was all over the shop etc.
People say that it's because it's more megapixels that it's not forgiving etc but it's pretty much ruined my day :(

Have you tried looking at the pics with nikon view (cd came with camera) there is an option to display the focus point used.

This would tell you if the camera has a problem or if it user error.

What lenses are you using ?
 
Hi everyone. Does anyone have any experience with the 80-200 f2.8d on a d7000? Wondering if it would be a good(although heavier) upgrade over my 70-300vr. Have been offered one at a good price , used with the hood. Image quality and balance are my main concerns. Thanks.
 
Well freecom2, this is why I'm reading this forum, it's been a really bad day for me! I went to a wedding today, and all my pics have come out really blurred and I'm pretty annoyed really, as I normally do a good job of photos, I'm not amazing by any stretch but I'm certainly no slouch. Nothing would focus today, and generally I have come home and feel pants - everything was soft, the autofocus was all over the shop etc.
People say that it's because it's more megapixels that it's not forgiving etc but it's pretty much ruined my day :(

Hi Jonty, I just picked up my D7000 today. Haven't had a chance to do much with it but did manage to pop out to take a few practice snaps and play with the settings. I toyed with the 3D 39pt tracking and also tried using just 9pt dynamic area. I think it might be a case of giving it time and getting to know the camera.

Having heard about the extra megapixels being less forgiving I just whacked up the shutter speed and the shots seemed to come out ok. I still need to spend some time experimenting a bit though...

With the 18-70, 1/200, ISO100, f7

p1054167186-4.jpg


70-300vr, 1/800, ISO800, f20

p679632095-4.jpg


70-300vr, 1/800, ISO800, f9

p1008312125-4.jpg
 
tim_uk said:
Have you tried looking at the pics with nikon view (cd came with camera) there is an option to display the focus point used.

This would tell you if the camera has a problem or if it user error.

What lenses are you using ?

You can actually set this in cam. It shows the focus point when you preview the shot on the LCD
 
I've posted this in another thread but thought it may be off use for reference in this thread:

Hello emyllis,

I've only had the D7000 a couple of weeks and I was starting to become disheartened because I felt it was so much less forgiving than my d40. The way I proved to my self that it was just me getting use to the camera, not the camera being crap was setting up a shot on a tripod, mirror lock up etc. Heres one I did minutes ago, hopefully you will see how detailed this is. This was shot with a 40 year old MF nikkor none of these fancy lenses it cost me £20 off ebay:

Standard Shot:

Test1of2.jpg


100% Crop:

Test2of2.jpg


Hope this helps

Jake
 
Hello,
I recently went from a D3000 with 18-55 kit lens to D7000 with a 17-55 f2.8
My results from the initial weeks shooting with the D7000 were some what mixed. Mostly good, but many soft focus and totally missed focus shots etc. How alot of people have described their first experiences .
I was expecting a giant leap from the first shot and was a tad disapointed !
But with more attention to the focus point , what I was focused on and getting used to the many other settings that have an effect my results improved quickly.
The D7000 is a great camera and is capable of producing superb images, but it does also have the ability to show where technique is lacking !
I'm now absolutely happy with my D7000. It's awesome :-)
 
I told myself I'd spend 8 months to a year with the D3100 before upgrading. I so nearly did. Image quality is fantastic, the low light performance is very good, it's easy to use, the important stuff is easy to get to, the settings that are more tricky to get to are things I'd adjust on the PC anyway (yay RAW). But the autofocus. Oh the autofocus. Great for portraits, still life, landscapes. Everything but sports. It's not to say it was bad, but it did feel like the limiting factor. If I could have just upgraded that, I would have stayed with it.

Temptation got the better of me, and bought a D7000 from Gray's this week. First outing with it yesterday and focus wise I'm already at the keeper rate I had with the D3100. It's looking good :)

Will go through the shots in detail next week, but here's 1 (well, 4 :lol:) from the day. Composited in PS:


S-bend sequence by ausemmao, on Flickr
 
Not to bang on about it, but... anyone...? :help:

Also, anyone experienced any bad stuff regarding the autofocus? I was reading this thread over at Nikon Rumors (link here) and was a bit concerned, especially since I do a lot of autofocusing in low light. Some of the people that post on NR are a bit, well, to be taken with a pinch of salt, but was wondering whether anyone here had any comments?


Had the 17-50 on a D3100 (14MP, so not far off the D7000 in pure resolution terms), and have just started using it on the D7000. It's brilliant IMO. Got a few shots on flickr and on some of my posts here if you want examples :)


Grand Union St. Mary's by ausemmao, on Flickr
 
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Hi everyone. Does anyone have any experience with the 80-200 f2.8d on a d7000? Wondering if it would be a good(although heavier) upgrade over my 70-300vr. Have been offered one at a good price , used with the hood. Image quality and balance are my main concerns. Thanks.

I use an 80-200/2.8 on a D7000 as well as on my D300. It's definitely a heavier lens than the 70-300VR. I think the difference in image quality is quite a subjective affair. You'll definitely get better bokeh in certain circumstances with the 2.8 lens. Here's a 142 page thread on another forum where people have posted 70-300VR photos. Have fun! (Personally, I'd be very satisfied with either lens. If a trip to Europe ever materializes for us I'd be very tempted to buy a 70-300VR to take along with my 16-85VR.)
 
The low light capability looks great in the above post

Low light capability is not the same as shooting a long exposure @ ISO200. :)
 
Low light capability is not the same as shooting a long exposure @ ISO200. :)

Very true, though it isn't exactly a low light slouch either. Makes things easier for those waiting for the upgrade cycle to inch that little bit more :p
 
Very true, though it isn't exactly a low light slouch either.

Oh, I know it's not. Just wanted to clear it up for newer folks reading it. :)
 
photogwannabe said:
I use an 80-200/2.8 on a D7000 as well as on my D300. It's definitely a heavier lens than the 70-300VR. I think the difference in image quality is quite a subjective affair. You'll definitely get better bokeh in certain circumstances with the 2.8 lens. Here's a 142 page thread on another forum where people have posted 70-300VR photos. Have fun! (Personally, I'd be very satisfied with either lens. If a trip to Europe ever materializes for us I'd be very tempted to buy a 70-300VR to take along with my 16-85VR.)

Thanks for the advice. Think may stick with 70-300 and use 85 or 105 for 2.8....until I look at another 80-200. Btw- it was a fun thread. Cheers .
 
Is anyone using a GGS screen protector? There are about 25 million different versions, and also the D90 ones apparently seem to fit - anyone got any first hand advice? There seems to be an adhesive version and one which clips on like the Nikon plastic one, my preference would be for the latter but does anyone have any experience with either?
 
Well the increased topcashback cashback of 6% at Jessops has finally made me bite the bullet and order a D7000 body as an upgrade from my 6 year old D70. Collecting it Tuesday :)

Funny so did I but collected it 4 days later :-)

Well freecom2, this is why I'm reading this forum, it's been a really bad day for me! I went to a wedding today, and all my pics have come out really blurred and I'm pretty annoyed really, as I normally do a good job of photos, I'm not amazing by any stretch but I'm certainly no slouch. Nothing would focus today, and generally I have come home and feel pants - everything was soft, the autofocus was all over the shop etc.
People say that it's because it's more megapixels that it's not forgiving etc but it's pretty much ruined my day :(

And likewise I've had a very similar experience unfortunately as well. First weekend I went out to Ashridge look at the bluebells and get used to the camera. On the in-built screen it looked ok, but at home in Aperture nearly all we useless, focus in the wrong place and very soft. I blamed myself and that I needed to learn more.

Then I upgraded to firmware 1.02 (just because), and was in town waiting and did some street candids. A while in and the focus points seem to have locked in the top right. Not even taken the battery out would change it. I had to do a full setting reset. But I was still blaming myself as 'I must have changed a setting'...

Then last Sunday my daughters first communion, made certain I was in spot focus to 'pick her out', it is subtle but a lot of the time the focus is not on her but around her. But still I was doubting myself at quick moment whether I did something wrong.

But then this morning I had some time and went out and take the time and be very specific. There is definitely something wrong with the focussing system. I am 100% spot focus on the sign with black letters, yet the camera for whatever reason focusses in front of it. Doesn't get noticeable on the in-camera screen, but when I few on my 30" ACD it is clear that something is not right with the image.


_DSC0555 by JP de Jong, on Flickr

So I took it into Jessops, unfortunately their Nikon guy wasn't in today but the others seem to recall lots of these kind of problem. They want him to verify and if so they'll swap the body for another one for me.

I hope this has a happy ending as the photos are so much cleaner than my old D70, just not sharp and not focussed where I want it to be. So pretty useless at the moment.

PS. The lenses I used this on, and they do it all, are a 50mm f1.8, 17-50 f2.8, 55-200 f4-f5.6, 70-300 f4-f5.6 and a 18-70 f3.5-f5.6
 
Is anyone using a GGS screen protector? There are about 25 million different versions, and also the D90 ones apparently seem to fit - anyone got any first hand advice? There seems to be an adhesive version and one which clips on like the Nikon plastic one, my preference would be for the latter but does anyone have any experience with either?


Yes I am, I first used them on my D90
Now my D7000 has them on, I use the stick on type, they fit really well, you wouldn't even know they were on apart from the three small GCS letters on the rear screen.they are also easily removed if you wanted to.
I would recomend them to anyone looking for screen protectors. The cheapest I found were on fleabay, but buy from a seller with good feedback in selling them to avoid buying cheap copies.
 
Now my D7000 has them on, I use the stick on type, they fit really well, you wouldn't even know they were on apart from the three small GCS letters on the rear screen.they are also easily removed if you wanted to.

Thanks for the info - I'm probably going to purchase this one, as it's in the UK so delivery hopefully shouldn't take as long as the ones from the Far East. There are so many though, very confusing, and after a bit of Googling no one seems to have written a definitive guide on which ones are the ones to buy, how they differ etc.

Actually, seems like the clip-on one might be a better idea: "The GenIII isn't vulnerable to shattering when its edge accidentally contacts something hard. That's because it has a plastic bezel that snaps on to the BM-11 contact points instead of a naked glass panel that glues on like earlier generation protectors. Much, much better."

Since they only seem to be available for the D90 but fit the D7k just fine, might go for that instead.
 
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But then this morning I had some time and went out and take the time and be very specific. There is definitely something wrong with the focussing system. I am 100% spot focus on the sign with black letters, yet the camera for whatever reason focusses in front of it. Doesn't get noticeable on the in-camera screen, but when I few on my 30" ACD it is clear that something is not right with the image.

Just as a matter of interest did you open the image in NX2 and check that the focus point is on the costco sign ?
 
Funny so did I but collected it 4 days later :-)



And likewise I've had a very similar experience unfortunately as well. First weekend I went out to Ashridge look at the bluebells and get used to the camera. On the in-built screen it looked ok, but at home in Aperture nearly all we useless, focus in the wrong place and very soft. I blamed myself and that I needed to learn more.

Then I upgraded to firmware 1.02 (just because), and was in town waiting and did some street candids. A while in and the focus points seem to have locked in the top right. Not even taken the battery out would change it. I had to do a full setting reset. But I was still blaming myself as 'I must have changed a setting'...

Then last Sunday my daughters first communion, made certain I was in spot focus to 'pick her out', it is subtle but a lot of the time the focus is not on her but around her. But still I was doubting myself at quick moment whether I did something wrong.

But then this morning I had some time and went out and take the time and be very specific. There is definitely something wrong with the focussing system. I am 100% spot focus on the sign with black letters, yet the camera for whatever reason focusses in front of it. Doesn't get noticeable on the in-camera screen, but when I few on my 30" ACD it is clear that something is not right with the image.

[image removed for purpose of quoting]

So I took it into Jessops, unfortunately their Nikon guy wasn't in today but the others seem to recall lots of these kind of problem. They want him to verify and if so they'll swap the body for another one for me.

I hope this has a happy ending as the photos are so much cleaner than my old D70, just not sharp and not focussed where I want it to be. So pretty useless at the moment.

PS. The lenses I used this on, and they do it all, are a 50mm f1.8, 17-50 f2.8, 55-200 f4-f5.6, 70-300 f4-f5.6 and a 18-70 f3.5-f5.6

Try using the AF fine tune to rectify the problem. I did, and found I improved my D7000s focus way beyond expectation, especially with the fast (2.8 and wider) lenses. Also consider that you've moved from a 6MP camera to a 16mp camera, so you could easily have had a similar problem with the D70 but never noticed due to the reduced resolution. Also bear in mind that the techniques you used successfully with the D70 may very well need to be refined due to the radically increased resolution of the D7000. For instance the general rule of thumb that you would use a shutter speed of (for a crop sensor) 1/(1.5 x focal length) is way out of date. In fact I believe this only really consistently applies to film in these days of high mega pixel sensors.

From what I've read, and from the people I've spoken to who own the D7000 it may well be that a replacement might have similar problems, and it may be better to have your camera checked and serviced by Nikon if you're unable to dial out the problem using the AF fine tune.
 
Just as a matter of interest did you open the image in NX2 and check that the focus point is on the costco sign ?

Oh yes, that is what trigged the specific trip. Both NX2 and Apple Aperture confirm the focal point is on the sign unfortunately.
 
Try using the AF fine tune to rectify the problem. I did, and found I improved my D7000s focus way beyond expectation, especially with the fast (2.8 and wider) lenses. Also consider that you've moved from a 6MP camera to a 16mp camera, so you could easily have had a similar problem with the D70 but never noticed due to the reduced resolution. Also bear in mind that the techniques you used successfully with the D70 may very well need to be refined due to the radically increased resolution of the D7000. For instance the general rule of thumb that you would use a shutter speed of (for a crop sensor) 1/(1.5 x focal length) is way out of date. In fact I believe this only really consistently applies to film in these days of high mega pixel sensors.

From what I've read, and from the people I've spoken to who own the D7000 it may well be that a replacement might have similar problems, and it may be better to have your camera checked and serviced by Nikon if you're unable to dial out the problem using the AF fine tune.
I will try that and a large part of me is that it is technique.

Although saying that it is turning out a bit of both. I went back to Jessops (local retailer here) and there is definitely a big part of my technique that make it goes bad I will unfortunately have to admit. The guy there got much better results with all my lenses than I did and most razor sharp. A big part seems to be movement by myself and I severely need to up the shutter speed compared to what I am used to. Od but the movement seems to come from me :-(

Except for one lens, the chap in the shot got totally wild card results with my Tamron 17-50 VC. Then tried another of that lens and swapped them between other (d7000) bodies. Both copies of that lens on both D7000 bodies produced totally unpredictable results. Looking ok on the inscreen monitor but once it was out on the big screen it was clear focal points were all over the place.

So two actions for me;
1. Get steady arms (how the heck I do that I have no idea I'm even a sharp shooter on 9mm and 7.62mm, but we'll see once I figure out what I am doing to it)
2. Find a decent f2.8 or less that works in 17-50'ish

As you say, there is some serious hard work required to get good results out of this camera. Part of me now wished I went for the D90 instead as I don't want to have to carry a tripod everywhere.
 
have you tried putting it on a tripod with the aperture wide open low iso (100) and seeing what the focus is like then? trying using mirror lock up with either the remote trigger or cable release, i was the same as the chap above, my 70-300 was well out on the focus, so i did the tripod test to see how far out it was then used the af fine tune to make it better, my 70-300 is pin sharp and love using that lens now, although my siggy 18-50 2.8 isn't as sharp and my 1.8 50mm is similar to the siggy but i haven't fine tuned that yet. for me the reason the siggy isn't as good is the quality and that lens cost me aq good £300 which for D7k is nothing. why i have said in a diffrent thread the D7k is pro bodied not consumer
 
Yes and I am dreading to think you are right. Might have to spend on a different class of glass....

Although this wasn't too bad this afternoon I thought...On my cheapie Nikon 55-200 VR. Just need to work on my technique more I guess and will definitely try and fine tune.


DSC_7241 - Version 2 by JP de Jong, on Flickr
 
I need an SB700, I can't put it off any longer. As soon as exams are done I'll go fish around for one. As goos as the high ISO and DR are, there's seemingly no getting around horrible gig lighting without your own light sources.


Dan 2 by ausemmao, on Flickr


Julian 3 by ausemmao, on Flickr
 
Why limit yourself, the SB900 is only a little more :-)
 
I'd double check first, many venues and many bands dislike or ban the use of flashes. I thought it was considered a no-no of gig photography?
 
I need an SB700, I can't put it off any longer. As soon as exams are done I'll go fish around for one. As goos as the high ISO and DR are, there's seemingly no getting around horrible gig lighting without your own light sources.
TBH you're not really pushing it with those two shots, ISO1000 and ISO800 :shrug:

Why ruin a great shot with even more artificial light when you are getting the results without it, and still plenty of iso to play with, The D7k is good at 6400, be brave, step out a little :thumbs:
 
I need an SB700, I can't put it off any longer. As soon as exams are done I'll go fish around for one. As goos as the high ISO and DR are, there's seemingly no getting around horrible gig lighting without your own light sources.

TBH you're not really pushing it with those two shots, ISO1000 and ISO800 :shrug:

Why ruin a great shot with even more artificial light when you are getting the results without it, and still plenty of iso to play with, The D7k is good at 6400, be brave, step out a little :thumbs:

The first was one of only a few of the colour shots that were usable - the stage lights mostly alternated between red and blue with very little white light, such that in most of the images the corresponding channel is completely blown where the spotlights hit and even the RAWs are posterised. Even a little bounced flash would have made the difference in giving me a little more white light. That's why I mentioned DR - it was the individual channels getting blown that was the issue, not noise or sensitivity :) - I've got nothing but good things to say about those (and some sports shots to get sorted over the weekend)

I'd double check first, many venues and many bands dislike or ban the use of flashes. I thought it was considered a no-no of gig photography?

Yeah, I think it depends on the band and venue - this one would have been fine with it. In any case, it wouldn't be to overpower the existing lights, it would be to just add a little fill.

The 900 is also way bigger haha. I like to at least harbour the illusion I'm somwehat inconspicuous :p
 
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Even if only to add a little fill, the majority simply won't let you. It's probably better to try and work out how to time it right, start utilising the greater D7k ISO sensitivities and work out how best to post-process it in the long run (my two pence).
 
Even if only to add a little fill, the majority simply won't let you. It's probably better to try and work out how to time it right, start utilising the greater D7k ISO sensitivities and work out how best to post-process it in the long run (my two pence).

The flash would be for other things too. I didn't realise so few venues would let you use it. Will keep that in mind.


LUV Bass by ausemmao, on Flickr

This is one that shows what I'm talking about - it's at ISO1600 - not especially high, the highest I'm happy shooting with seems to be 3200. But the red is nearly blown (and this is after futzing about in PP to make it a bit better). On others it's completely blown. Increasing ISO wouldn't change this, unless I decided to accept that the channel was blown, get the rest in and push it back down via software? Would that work, or have I got things wrong?
 
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Although it's blown, I kinda like it in a way - it seems to work on the guitar (IMO). I've seen a fair few blown shots which have just been converted to B&W to try and minimise the damage, but if the lighting is only like this and doesn't vary much, trying to limit the damage with PP is about as far as you can go really. Not much more can be done...
 
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