Nikon D750 & D780

nog said:
Pretty sure you need to use BBF when doing fine tune, I used BBF and ok
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Don't need BBF, just need to gain critical sharpness first via liveview's contrast detect (or manual focus) and then disable AF. Obviously BBF kind of disables AF as soon as you stop pressing it but if you've used it with PDAF to get focus in the first place (ie through the viewfinder and NOT liveview) then you're not doing the test right as the whole point of the test is to detect flaws in PDAF.
 
snerkler said:
Don't need BBF, just need to gain critical sharpness first via liveview's contrast detect (or manual focus) and then disable AF. Obviously BBF kind of disables AF as soon as you stop pressing it but if you've used it with PDAF to get focus in the first place (ie through the viewfinder and NOT liveview) then you're not doing the test right as the whole point of the test is to detect flaws in PDAF.
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Just followed
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zE50jCUPhM
and worked ok, there is a note around 1min 20sec not to use manual focus on Nikon and if IRRC some thing about using BBF but I`ve had too much to drink and can`t watch it again atm.- might have been some where else i read about using BBF:)
 
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nog said:
Just followed
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zE50jCUPhM
and worked ok, there is a note around 1min 20sec not to use manual focus on Nikon and if IRRC some thing about using BBF but I`ve had too much to drink and can`t watch it again atm.- might have been some where else i read about using BBF:)
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I'll watch it again at some point ;) But I'd be very surprised if they said to use BBF in anything other than Liveview, the whole point of the initial focus is to gain critical sharpness. I wouldn't use manual focus as I don't trust that I can get it as accurate as the contrast detect in liveview ;)
 
snerkler said:
I'll watch it again at some point ;) But I'd be very surprised if they said to use BBF in anything other than Liveview, the whole point of the initial focus is to gain critical sharpness. I wouldn't use manual focus as I don't trust that I can get it as accurate as the contrast detect in liveview ;)
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They say to use BBF so that a half press of the shutter doesn't focus, as the focus confirmation dot is more forgiving when you switch the camera into manual focus mode
 
KitsuneAndy said:
They say to use BBF so that a half press of the shutter doesn't focus, as the focus confirmation dot is more forgiving when you switch the camera into manual focus mode
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That's correct. I used BBF as the video suggested.
 
KitsuneAndy said:
They say to use BBF so that a half press of the shutter doesn't focus, as the focus confirmation dot is more forgiving when you switch the camera into manual focus mode
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Ahh thanks for this, will teach me to watch it properly. Might give it another go just out of curiosity to see how narrow the 'gap' is.
 
snerkler said:
I'll watch it again at some point ;) But I'd be very surprised if they said to use BBF in anything other than Liveview, the whole point of the initial focus is to gain critical sharpness. I wouldn't use manual focus as I don't trust that I can get it as accurate as the contrast detect in liveview ;)
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Found where I read it, http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3386481?page=4#forum-post-50922834

"
Someone on my FM thread recently discovered that the VF confirmation range increases dramatically when AF is set to MF (on either body or lens) vs leaving AF enabled and using back-button focusing as a way to avoid triggering a lens refocus when checking for VF focus confirmation. I always use back-button focusing when I DotTune but I told everyone in my video to disable AF because I thought is would be an easier procedure for those who aren't already familiar with back-button focusing. I failed to test that step before describing it to others, sorry!

When I toggle AF/MF I see an immediate change to the confirmed range. Here are the results of a DotTune with AF enabled vs AF disabled:

  • AF enabled: -14 to -18
  • AF disabled: -2 to -20 (past end of -20 range)
My theory is that Nikon's firmware is intentionally expanding the in-focus range for VF confirmation (when AF is disabled) to make it easier and faster for photographers to manually focus. They probably figured that if the range were tight it would be too difficult and time consuming for people to manually focus to it.

So here is an important update to the DotTune method described in the video:

  • Configure your body for back-button focusing by setting "AF activation" to "AF-ON only". On this D800 this is option a4
  • After establishing critical focus of your AF target, leave the body and lens to set AF rather than switching to MF
  • During the DotTune VF range-discovery procedure (step 4 and 5 in my video), use a half-press of the shutter to turn on the VF confirmation. In my video I said you could use either a half-press of the shutter *or* the AF-ON button, but now that we're leaving AF enabled you must use a half-press of the shutter.
Note that when the body+lens are set to AF the VF confirmation display wont stay illuminated for the duration of the metering timeout like it does when the body or lens are set to MF. This means you have to hold the shutter half-pressed to keep the confirmation display active while checking for the dot."
 
nog said:
Found where I read it, http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3386481?page=4#forum-post-50922834

"
Someone on my FM thread recently discovered that the VF confirmation range increases dramatically when AF is set to MF (on either body or lens) vs leaving AF enabled and using back-button focusing as a way to avoid triggering a lens refocus when checking for VF focus confirmation. I always use back-button focusing when I DotTune but I told everyone in my video to disable AF because I thought is would be an easier procedure for those who aren't already familiar with back-button focusing. I failed to test that step before describing it to others, sorry!

When I toggle AF/MF I see an immediate change to the confirmed range. Here are the results of a DotTune with AF enabled vs AF disabled:

  • AF enabled: -14 to -18
  • AF disabled: -2 to -20 (past end of -20 range)
My theory is that Nikon's firmware is intentionally expanding the in-focus range for VF confirmation (when AF is disabled) to make it easier and faster for photographers to manually focus. They probably figured that if the range were tight it would be too difficult and time consuming for people to manually focus to it.

So here is an important update to the DotTune method described in the video:

  • Configure your body for back-button focusing by setting "AF activation" to "AF-ON only". On this D800 this is option a4
  • After establishing critical focus of your AF target, leave the body and lens to set AF rather than switching to MF
  • During the DotTune VF range-discovery procedure (step 4 and 5 in my video), use a half-press of the shutter to turn on the VF confirmation. In my video I said you could use either a half-press of the shutter *or* the AF-ON button, but now that we're leaving AF enabled you must use a half-press of the shutter.
Note that when the body+lens are set to AF the VF confirmation display wont stay illuminated for the duration of the metering timeout like it does when the body or lens are set to MF. This means you have to hold the shutter half-pressed to keep the confirmation display active while checking for the dot."
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Thanks, useful this. I have mine set now (tended to use my other method more) but will certainly try this next time and check the results.
 
Got out to the beach last night for sunset to try my new 750 and 16-35f 4. Sunset never happened but it was nice to get a few shots anyway and see how things worked. Did realise that at 16-18mm with the double Lee filter holder on and 105mm polarizer on the front, it vignettes badly. After 18 mm it is ok.
 
phil_b said:
Got out to the beach last night for sunset to try my new 750 and 16-35f 4. Sunset never happened but it was nice to get a few shots anyway and see how things worked. Did realise that at 16-18mm with the double Lee filter holder on and 105mm polarizer on the front, it vignettes badly. After 18 mm it is ok.
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Odd, I've never had any massive problems, there is some shading in the corners but nothing LR can't solve. I think Lee only 'guarantee' it down to 17mm.
 
I got GAS ...
For some reason my hankering for a 135 f2 DC, has reared it`s head again :eek:

I`d have to shift both the 35 art & 85 1.8 to cover it though. Decisions decisions ...
 
Macro lens? I prefer 'close focusing short/medium telephoto'. :)

_7502366.jpg
 
Paulie-W said:
I got GAS ...
For some reason my hankering for a 135 f2 DC, has reared it`s head again :eek:

I`d have to shift both the 35 art & 85 1.8 to cover it though. Decisions decisions ...
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Didn't you want to sell up a few days a go?

@Swanseajack has pointed out in another thread that there is one on Amazon for £560... Could be worth looking into?!
 
Keara.jpg

Concentration.
I though it's about time I contributed more on here rather than just read and have a good laugh at all the going on's.;) . . 50mm F1.8.
 
Stu Meech said:
Odd, I've never had any massive problems, there is some shading in the corners but nothing LR can't solve. I think Lee only 'guarantee' it down to 17mm.
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Was only using one slot plus the polarising ring so if I had taken it apart and removed the spare slot I woild have been ok. I was always able to use 10mm on my crop camera with 2 filters plus polariser ok.
 
Fine tuned the 85 yesterday using DotTune method and it has once again become my fav lens. Well, didn't bring the Tamron 70-200 2.8 to compete with :D, so this will be used for a lot of portraits while we are in India.

Full


Ashmi by Anirban Acharya, on Flickr

Tightly Cropped
Ashmi cropped by Anirban Acharya, on Flickr
 
Lovely shot - this may be a stupid question, but can I ask where you focussed, please?

Was it smack bang between the eyes, or did you favour one eye over t'other? (Reason I ask is they both look super sharp!)
 
Chuckoir said:
Lovely shot - this may be a stupid question, but can I ask where you focussed, please?

Was it smack bang between the eyes, or did you favour one eye over t'other? (Reason I ask is they both look super sharp!)
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Thanks. I always focus on one eye and with such shallow dof on the 85 at wide apertures, most images turn out with one eye sharp only and that is how I want certain images.
This time, I was lucky as the focal plane hit both eyes almost equally. At 1.8 to 2.5 unless you line the subject straight, there will be always some focus difference due to shallow dof.

Shooting kids is another challenge and my daughter is never still :(
 
anibap said:
Thanks. I always focus on one eye and with such shallow dof on the 85 at wide apertures, most images turn out with one eye sharp only and that is how I want certain images.
This time, I was lucky as the focal plane hit both eyes almost equally. At 1.8 to 2.5 unless you line the subject straight, there will be always some focus difference due to shallow dof.

Shooting kids is another challenge and my daughter is never still :(
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Figured it was down to the photo gods aligning and both eyes were on the same plane. Great stuff.(y)
 
minnnt said:
Didn't you want to sell up a few days a go?

@Swanseajack has pointed out in another thread that there is one on Amazon for £560... Could be worth looking into?!
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Just had one of those days, mate. It happens now and then.

That is an iffy link. He also had 16-35`s for £400 which were described in the same way, so I steered well clear.
 
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Paulie-W said:
Just had one of those days, mate. It happens now and then.

That is an iffy link. He also had 16-35`s for £400 which were described in the same way, so I steered well clear.
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Over 2000 sales all positive feedback would seem it's not iffy, no?
 
f/2.8 said:
Over 2000 sales all positive feedback would seem it's not iffy, no?
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If it's still there tomorrow, with the same seller, then perhaps not, but I've looked at these heavily discounted ''Advertising purposes" items before and I would think twice before parting with my cash.

I was following a lens last week, and the same lens was available but under a different seller - all these sellers always have the same items for sale; a load of high value electrical goods, with a few "genuine" items, in this case engraved silver bits, thrown in (check the feedback - all relating to engraved items)

This is listed under the item's condition too - 'The product was used only for advertising purposes in my store, and the price is so low because has been unpacked-,full warranty, full accessories New,never,used-Before buying let me know here climbeuropecomputer4u@fastem.comTHANK YOU' - seems a bit odd.
 
Over £200 cheaper than the other ones for sale, and unused .... Hey good luck to anyone who wants to take a punt, but it wont be me.


SsSsSsSsSnake said:
so i won't be holding the Strat back for you then Paul? :)
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I`m tone deaf anyway mate ;)

f/2.8 said:
Over 2000 sales all positive feedback would seem it's not iffy, no?
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Yeah and contact via email, not direct through amazon. That`s iffy to me.
 
Yeah I bet they offer a discount too for bank transfer to avoid going through Amazons system leaving the buyer totally unprotected.
 
anibap said:
Fine tuned the 85 yesterday using DotTune method and it has once again become my fav lens. Well, didn't bring the Tamron 70-200 2.8 to compete with :D, so this will be used for a lot of portraits while we are in India.

Full


Ashmi by Anirban Acharya, on Flickr

Tightly Cropped
Ashmi cropped by Anirban Acharya, on Flickr
Click to expand...


"Cracking shot Anirban, and very well suited to mono.(y)

George.
 
twist said:
Yup, great cameras. Its a tough choice but at the moment I have to many cameras and already have an A5100 which is exactly the same camera minus the EVF so I doubled up. Logical one to go then.
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just a question re you kept the A5100 and sold the A6000,do you prefer it without the VF?
thanks
 
I know what you mean, bloody weather, went for a cycle in the sun, got caught in gale force winds, hail (which really hurts!), and torrential rain. Got home and the sun came out. FFS.
 
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