Nikon D750 & D780

Can I ask - particularly wedding / pro photographers - do you use CL CH release mode as a standard to 'get the shot' ? and if so dya shoot in jpg raher than RAW .
 
Can I ask - particularly wedding / pro photographers - do you use CL CH release mode as a standard to 'get the shot' ? and if so dya shoot in jpg raher than RAW .

Generally speaking I will only use single shutter release. I'm not an ardent fan of 'machine gunning' images there really is no point. However, for the 'confetti shot' or 'tossing the bouquet' then the CH function for 2-3 second burst is a useful tool. I always shoot in RAW and JPEG.
 
The lady puts into perspective the sheer size of the coastline cliffs. Wowzers.

Thanks mate.
It is a brutal coastline.
 
One month on and I still ain't got my D750 back from NPS and they ain't replying to my emails... should I panic? Anyway, at least the temp camera is doing the job:

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Full blogpost here

Just keep hounding them on the phone, eventually I think it helped last time. Doesn't bode well then for mine at the moment.
 
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Are any D750 owners here using the Samyang 12mm f/2.8 fisheye? I've read some favourable reviews. Your views would be greatly appreciated.
 
They are :)

I straightened the image on #2, but I didn't like it - something for me was lost so I put it back - actually I quite often do after apply lens correction, maybe I just like that sort of a look.
 
I'll be interested to hear what it's like. I got the 24-70VC last week and it's excellent. If the 70-200 is as good im seriously contemplating selling my 85mm to get one.

After my 150-600 proved to be woeful I'm thinking about the 70-200, always been quite impressed with the new Tamron stuff (24-70)
 
I had the Samyang 14mm 2.8 briefly and it was an excellent lens. I only sold it due to needing a flash. I've also had other Samyangs before and all have been great lenses.

I have the 7.5mm f/3.5 for m43. It's a cracking lens - well built and dirt cheap. I'd looked at the 14mm f/2.8 but think I'd prefer the wider FoV the 12mm would provide.
 
Cheers Michael, not bad handheld - the VC seems to work really quite well.
 
Just keep hounding them on the phone, eventually I think it helped last time. Doesn't bode well then for mine at the moment.

Nikon have had mine for over 3 weeks now (it came back from the flare advisory check and immediately went kaput) and I've had no meaningful update from them, despite calling 3 or 4 times. They promised to call me twice, but didn't.

I emailed them yesterday, so I'll wait to see what comes of that!
 
Nikon have had mine for over 3 weeks now (it came back from the flare advisory check and immediately went kaput) and I've had no meaningful update from them, despite calling 3 or 4 times. They promised to call me twice, but didn't.

I emailed them yesterday, so I'll wait to see what comes of that!

That's pretty poor imo.
 
After my 150-600 proved to be woeful I'm thinking about the 70-200, always been quite impressed with the new Tamron stuff (24-70)
Do you not fancy trying a second 150-600mm just in case you got a particularly bad copy, especially as you say yourself you're impressed with the new Tammys? Admittedly Tamron's QC does seem to be worse than other brands, but then you are looking at replacing a Tamron with a Tamron.
 
That's pretty poor imo.
I'd say that's worse than pretty poor. I absolutely hate it when they say they'll ring, then don't.
 
Generally speaking I will only use single shutter release. I'm not an ardent fan of 'machine gunning' images there really is no point. However, for the 'confetti shot' or 'tossing the bouquet' then the CH function for 2-3 second burst is a useful tool. I always shoot in RAW and JPEG.

I guess it's down to shooting style but I work differently. I take a massive amount of images when it comes to portraiture and candids. The slightest movement, look, drop of the shoulder makes a massive difference to me. To that end I use a mix of CL/H and single. I don't understand why machine gunning is looked down upon by some. My composition is set at the first shot, but when you're photographing any life form, especially humans, a couple of miliseconds can be the difference between a good shot and a great shot.

I just shoot RAW onto two D750 cards. I have photomechanic ingest the backup card and the main card remains as a backup until I need it again. I've 4 sets of 'wedding cards' so if anything about the backup card ingest is corrupt, I'll likely still have the main card to recover images.
 
Nikon have had mine for over 3 weeks now (it came back from the flare advisory check and immediately went kaput) and I've had no meaningful update from them, despite calling 3 or 4 times. They promised to call me twice, but didn't.

I emailed them yesterday, so I'll wait to see what comes of that!

Exactly the same as my experience (flare fix messed up the AF) except it's now FIVE weeks and as well as calling, I've emailed numerous times. They responded once and it's since gone dead. It's pretty shocking for a 'Pro service.'
 
Exactly the same as my experience (flare fix messed up the AF) except it's now FIVE weeks and as well as calling, I've emailed numerous times. They responded once and it's since gone dead. It's pretty shocking for a 'Pro service.'
Hmmm, maybe I'll not send mine back for the shutter issue then as I've experienced the issue. First time round with the flare issue the service was excellent though (barring it coming back with a tiny dirt spec of the focus screen)
 
Can I ask - particularly wedding / pro photographers - do you use CL CH release mode as a standard to 'get the shot' ? and if so dya shoot in jpg raher than RAW .

Very, very rarely. Single shot for me.

Having said that, the wedding I did yesterday had a bird of prey demonstration so high speed burst was selected. Try taking a picture of a peregrine falcon in flight on single shot :D
 
I guess it's down to shooting style but I work differently. I take a massive amount of images when it comes to portraiture and candids. The slightest movement, look, drop of the shoulder makes a massive difference to me. To that end I use a mix of CL/H and single. I don't understand why machine gunning is looked down upon by some. My composition is set at the first shot, but when you're photographing any life form, especially humans, a couple of miliseconds can be the difference between a good shot and a great shot.

I just shoot RAW onto two D750 cards. I have photomechanic ingest the backup card and the main card remains as a backup until I need it again. I've 4 sets of 'wedding cards' so if anything about the backup card ingest is corrupt, I'll likely still have the main card to recover images.

I'm certainly not looking down on 'machine gunning' it's just that I grew up making every frame count on 35mm / 120mm or even having just two exposures per plate in 5x4 / 10x8. Yours is s fair comment though.
 
Going back to the machine gun setting, gave it a go earlier on. Don't normally use it, but it was the right setting for the occasion. Bought Lily a new trampoline yesterday and spent a couple of hours setting it up today. Having the enclosure around it meant i had to shoot pretty close at 24mm. I'm guessing it would have been a breeze to shoot at 200mm f2.8 whist sat at the top of the garden. :LOL:

Anyway, 24mm portraits ftw! :D


Lily
by David Raynham, on Flickr

And a 70mm shot


Lily
by David Raynham, on Flickr

And a crazy daughter...


Bounce Bounce Bounce
by David Raynham, on Flickr
 
I guess it's down to shooting style but I work differently. I take a massive amount of images when it comes to portraiture and candids. The slightest movement, look, drop of the shoulder makes a massive difference to me. To that end I use a mix of CL/H and single. I don't understand why machine gunning is looked down upon by some. My composition is set at the first shot, but when you're photographing any life form, especially humans, a couple of miliseconds can be the difference between a good shot and a great shot.

I just shoot RAW onto two D750 cards. I have photomechanic ingest the backup card and the main card remains as a backup until I need it again. I've 4 sets of 'wedding cards' so if anything about the backup card ingest is corrupt, I'll likely still have the main card to recover images.

Totally agree Deci. The more I have shot people, the more I have increased my shots. There can be slight differences that make all the difference. It's so simple to pick the keepers and delete the rest.
 
Forget the machine gun phrase,continues is just another tool to be used when you need it.
 
Forget the machine gun phrase,continues is just another tool to be used when you need it.

That's is pretty much what I said in #4843. Although I normally shoot single frame. For 'confetti' and the 'bouquet toss' then the CH function really comes into its own.
 
Is there a notable difference in IQ between the D810 and D750, Nick?

The quality of the D810 is pretty impressive. However, generally speaking when looking on the computer screen then you won't discern a lot of difference to the naked eye although it is there in the background, when you start to print big images such as A1, A0, 2A0 size there is a notable difference in quality with the D810. Because of the size of the sensor, it will allow very generous cropping of images in Photoshop. This is particularly good for wildlife photographers who want to make an image from perhaps an animal who is quite not as far in the frame or they would like. Press photographers or CSIs who may want to hone in on a bit of information. That said, I do prefer to get the composition right in the camera and select the right focal length in the first place to negate any need to crop the image, but having this leeway is a really useful tool when you need it. The quality of the D810 is pretty impressive. One feature I do like about it is that it has a dedicated eyepiece shutter that cuts out all light entering the eyepiece during long exposures. Although the D750 has a plastic one in reality this pain to use and can be easily lost.
 
This might sound like a silly question but on the D750 what ISO do you lot use most for any Landscape work?

100 or 50??

I've always used 100 but my last couple of trips out I've been using 50 and I'm not sure if my images are as clean as 100. Don't get me wrong I totally get that the D750 can't handle a huge range of ISO's but just wanted to check if it's just me
 
This might sound like a silly question but on the D750 what ISO do you lot use most for any Landscape work?

100 or 50??

I've always used 100 but my last couple of trips out I've been using 50 and I'm not sure if my images are as clean as 100. Don't get me wrong I totally get that the D750 can't handle a huge range of ISO's but just wanted to check if it's just me
I always use the lowest native ISO which is 100 on the D750, anything other than this and you start to lose DR (even if it is just a small amount)
 
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