Nikon D750 & D780

I went to my local John Lewis today specifically to play with a D750. Want. Badly.

Unfortunately, the merest mention of a new camera has resulted in cold-war strength tensions within the household. I would estimate that we're currently at DEFCON 2.

This may even necessitate... flowers. :eek:
 
adrianday said:
I went to my local John Lewis today specifically to play with a D750. Want. Badly.

Unfortunately, the merest mention of a new camera has resulted in cold-war strength tensions within the household. I would estimate that we're currently at DEFCON 2.

This may even necessitate... flowers. :eek:
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Cold war tensions are worth it! Flowers, chocolate and let her loose in the shoe area of John Lewis whilst you uuuh go 'look' at the electronics section ;)
 
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minnnt said:
They all die after a few days anyway.
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Is that the Flowers or the Cameras. Boom, Boom. :D:D

"Sorry mate I couldn't resist it".:)

George.
 
kirif1 said:
Cold war tensions are worth it! Flowers, chocolate and let her loose in the shoe area of John Lewis whilst you uuuh go 'look' at the electronics section ;)
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Dangerous... a couple of pairs of shoes probably cost more than a Nikon in there!
 
Cheese Scientist said:
Yes but if you're set to manual, it doesn't use them does it?
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Not sure if you are joking, so I'll assume not just in case. ;)

The camera is metering all the time you half press the shutter, regardless of the mode you are using.

How useful it is to you depends on how you are using manual. If you are experienced enough just put aperture, shutter and ISO settings in as starting point and then make adjustments based on the image and/or the histogram on review, then the metering mode is of little use. It is still metering, you are just taking no notice of it.

If however, you start by getting the needle centred as a starting point, and then adjust as above, then the camera is measuring using one of the metering modes you have it set to, and getting the needle in the centre is when the camera 'thinks' it is the correct exposure.

You probably know all that, but just in case anyone doesn't. ;)
 
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bbg404 said:
I'm going to set up the cereal box and ruler tonight and see what's going on!
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Wouldnt bother, if looking at your images you done see any issues then dont go looking for any

In all honesty ive never ever micro adjusted a single lens, ive had 2 occasions where a lens has back focussed so i sent it back and got a replacement, im not paying silly money on lenses and doing Nikons Quality Control for them
 
Gary Coyle said:
Wouldnt bother, if looking at your images you done see any issues then dont go looking for any

In all honesty ive never ever micro adjusted a single lens, ive had 2 occasions where a lens has back focussed so i sent it back and got a replacement, im not paying silly money on lenses and doing Nikons Quality Control for them
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That is a very very good way to look at it! I like to think all lenses I've got are tack sharp! I haven't to say having had them bar the 80-400 for over 6 months I've never noticed an out of focus shot unless it was my fault
 
Cheese Scientist said:
Yes but if you're set to manual, it doesn't use them does it?
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Yes as you're little light meter display tells you if the manual settings you have chosen are going to underexpose, over expose or expose 'correctly'.
As for shooting a pic, checking and then making adjustments why not just trust the meter and then check and readjust if necessary? I'm sure you'll find you do far less adjusting, especially if you fine tune your metering to your liking.
 
bbg404 said:
Evening D750 owners! The question is have you done the AF Micro adjustment?? Am I stupid for not doing it?

The lenses I own are the 16-35 f4, 24-120 f4, 50 1.8 and the new 80-400 AF-S

Thanks
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If you don't need to then don't adjust them. If you see an issue then adjust.

Gary Coyle said:
Wouldnt bother, if looking at your images you done see any issues then dont go looking for any

In all honesty ive never ever micro adjusted a single lens, ive had 2 occasions where a lens has back focussed so i sent it back and got a replacement, im not paying silly money on lenses and doing Nikons Quality Control for them
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We all have our own tolerances though, some will notice a slight front/back focus whilst others will need large front/back focus before they see it. I shoot wide open most of the time and can't bear even the slightest f/b focus. If I can correct the lens by applying up to +/-7 then I'm happy to do so, otherwise it goes back for an exchange. Trouble is there's tolerances with both lenses and cameras so getting a lens that's perfectly matched to your camera can require a bit of tooing and froing in which case it's easier and less time consuming for me to micro adjust.

I do keep considering sending all my gear off to be calibrated together but then as soon as I buy a new body Id have to do it all again :banghead:
 
snerkler said:
Yes as you're little light meter display tells you if the manual settings you have chosen are going to underexpose, over expose or expose 'correctly'.
As for shooting a pic, checking and then making adjustments why not just trust the meter and then check and readjust if necessary? I'm sure you'll find you do far less adjusting, especially if you fine tune your metering to your liking.
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The needle in the centre in Manual mode only shows you whether the camera 'thinks' it is the correct exposure. It me be, it may not. :thinking:

If all you are doing is always putting the needle in the centre in Manual, then use Aperture or Shutter priority, because that is all those modes are essentially doing for the Shutter or Aperture you have set, and doing it quicker than you can in Manual. The downside is that exposure can change with each image of the camera changes slightly what it is measuring. You may or may not want that to happen.

The Multi meter expects the whole scene, depending on how many zones it measures, to average out to 18% grey. Most average daylight scenes get pretty close, and so most scenes come out pretty close to correctly exposed. If it is slightly off you can adjust with the +/- EV control, in most modes other than Manual. In Manual you have to choose Aperture, Shutter or ISO to change to set the correct exposure. That assumes that you know if the image is under or over exposed of course. ;) Some people feel they know exactly if the exposure is correct from just looking at the image on the LCD. Well done, :clap: I need a bit more help. :) Just going by the image on the LCD, with no reference to the Histogram may lead to incorrect exposures.

Depending on the sophistication (I've been told) of the metering on the camera, it may reference what you are looking at to many many preset scenes in its memory to compensate away from what it has measured if it feels what it is looking matches something in its memory. A large bright Sun in the scene at sunset may tell the metering to bias what it has measured one way or another to get a more pleasing exposure most of the time with sunsets. Only you know exactly what you are looking at though.

If I am wrong about any of the above, please point it out. It wouldn't be the first time, and probably won't be the last. :( :rolleyes: :LOL:

I know it has digressed away from the talk about the D750, but I felt it was important to say. :)
 
adrianday said:
I went to my local John Lewis today specifically to play with a D750. Want. Badly.

Unfortunately, the merest mention of a new camera has resulted in cold-war strength tensions within the household. I would estimate that we're currently at DEFCON 2.

This may even necessitate... flowers. :eek:
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Buy her some Knitting pattern,that should make her happy :D
 
I think I want a longer prime for weddings to add the the D750 instead of my 70-200.

Is there any real option on Nikon other than the 135 DC?
 
A 24mm, 35mm and 85mm are ideal for weddings although. I wouldn't want to restrict myself to anything longer of a fixed focal length. In my opinion the flexibility of a 70-200mm is useful to have in the bag but is seldom used.
 
Gary Coyle said:
I meant the visualisation of the kid bouncing up and down and the tog snatching a shot was so funny not your actual reply as such, by the way im never wrong, ask the wife.
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I'm never wrong either. Actually I was wrong once five years ago. I thought I was wrong at that time. Turns out I wasn't!
 
KitsuneAndy said:
I think I want a longer prime for weddings to add the the D750 instead of my 70-200.

Is there any real option on Nikon other than the 135 DC?
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I'm afraid not Andy. Really am hoping someone sorts a 135 out sometime soon. Have been holding off getting the 70-200 because I know I won't use it that much.

I'm quite surprised by some of the comments about metering. I'm pretty adept at quickly guessing rough exposures in many conditions but the cameras meter is vital in getting it correct, especially if you are moving quickly. The different metering modes are for different purposes, matrix is the go to for the majority of scenes. After a while you do get quite used to how your meter behaves in all conditions. There's been situations as i mentioned where the Nikon has behaved differently to what I have been used to which has slowed me up.

The only time I have chimped exposure has been with studio kit or flashes on occasion with no handheld meter, your histogram is your friend in that situation. I generally don't monitor the histograms if moving quickly but if I were using a tripod and there's plenty of time to get it spot on then theres no excuse if I got it wrong.
 
redhed17 said:
The needle in the centre in Manual mode only shows you whether the camera 'thinks' it is the correct exposure. It me be, it may not. :thinking:

If all you are doing is always putting the needle in the centre in Manual, then use Aperture or Shutter priority, because that is all those modes are essentially doing for the Shutter or Aperture you have set, and doing it quicker than you can in Manual. The downside is that exposure can change with each image of the camera changes slightly what it is measuring. You may or may not want that to happen.

The Multi meter expects the whole scene, depending on how many zones it measures, to average out to 18% grey. Most average daylight scenes get pretty close, and so most scenes come out pretty close to correctly exposed. If it is slightly off you can adjust with the +/- EV control, in most modes other than Manual. In Manual you have to choose Aperture, Shutter or ISO to change to set the correct exposure. That assumes that you know if the image is under or over exposed of course. ;)
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Err, the exposure is only what the camera thinks is correct whichever mode/method you use, whether you change settings to make the needle centred in manual or just rely on exposure setting itself in priority. Unless you don't trust the meter for some reason (there are scenes that the meter gets wrong) you should set the needle central in manual, and this does not mean by doing this you should therefore use priority modes. There is more than one way of getting the correct exposure and with manual it allows you to choose which one of these is right for you depending on what you are trying to achieve. Priority modes take away this level of control, but are useful and quicker for a number of scenarios. I often go somewhere in between by using manual mode to control both aperture and shutter but then use auto ISO to ensure exposure is 'correct'. The beauty with the D750 is that you can use exp comp in manual mode as well if you know a scene is going to 'fool' the light meter.
 
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bbg404 said:
Evening D750 owners! The question is have you done the AF Micro adjustment?? Am I stupid for not doing it?

The lenses I own are the 16-35 f4, 24-120 f4, 50 1.8 and the new 80-400 AF-S

Thanks
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I wouldn't worry about the 16-35 or the 80-400 at f/4 unless they are really bad you would struggle to notice any back or front focusing issues due to the dof. It's more important on the likes of your 50mm if your going to use it wide open as will stand out like a sore thumb if its even out very slightly.
 
minnnt said:
I've turned chimping off so i don't get disheartened when out shooting. :LOL:

Andy, what about the 105 macro? Or if you're feeling flush, the 200 f2... :D
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I only chimp to ensure focus is sharp using the OK button as quick 1:1 zoom.
 
redhed17 said:
In Manual you have to choose Aperture, Shutter or ISO to change to set the correct exposure. That assumes that you know if the image is under or over exposed of course. ;)
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No it doesn't, you trust the meter to know if it's exposed correctly, just as you do in priority modes :p (except of course if you know the meter will get it wrong for a particular scene as already mentioned ;))

Metering works the same whether you're in manual, priority, auto etc. It's how you get to the chosen 'exposure settings' that differs.
 
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adrianday said:
Unfortunately, the merest mention of a new camera has resulted in cold-war strength tensions within the household. I would estimate that we're currently at DEFCON 2.

This may even necessitate... flowers. :eek:
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Rookie mistake.

You don't tell your wife about a new camera. You just hope she doesn't notice that it's changed......
 
I've gone from Nikon to Fuji in the last month and the other half hasn't even noticed, except to comment that "you've been sending and receiving a lot of parcels" :D
 
on that basis, your other half knows...
 
.... just order something for her in between all your parcels and itll soon be forgotten, perhaps a new ironing board :exit:
 
Spiritflier said:
The D750 gets used for the first time at a wedding on Saturday. To make sure that I was sure about myself and the camera working well together, I went out with a friend for the day to shoot a set of portraits in natural and artificial light scenarios. Sitting down to choose a set afterwards turned out to be really challenging because the camera performed so well. I used a combination of three lenses (the 16-35mm f/4 VR, a Sigma 50mm f/1.4 HSM and the Sigma 105mm f/2.8 EX DG OS) as well as a Nikon SB700 strobe on occasion.

Here's one of my favourites from the day. :)

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Very nice, I have been looking at the Sigma this week, whats your general thought on the lens?

I was hoping to carryout a bit of Macro and I have only owned a MF true macro lens, the Vivitar 55 f2.8 which I used on my XT1 with adapters but I wasn't steady enough so VR would be useful, also owned the Fuji 60mm which was 1:2. Looking at the photo it seems to perform very well for portraits too.
 
Mine doesn't seem to mind other than the fact i make her stay in until they have been delivered... :D

In other news, the 18-35 has just turned up and it is sweet. 18 is wiiiiiiiiiide! If i hold the lens like i normally do i can see my hand. :LOL: It's only 14g heavier than the 85mm which i'm more happier with. And the fact it doesn't extend when zooming i'm over the moon with. :LOL:
 
Since my recent trip to Howletts I've been trying to find out how AF systems 'really' work but haven't managed so I thought I'd pose the question.

When I was shooting through mesh fencing (the lens was literally pressed up against the fence) I had the camera set on centre single point AF, and whilst the AF point was well clear of any of the mesh (in fact I'd say at least the central 9 AF points were through the 'hole' of the mesh) the AF still seemed to be affected by the fencing. It wasn't hunting per se but it seemed as though it was still trying to lock on to the fence rather than the subject behind (but couldn't as I was too close), and for the life of me can't figure out why this was. I just assumed that the camera would only activate the single focus point, and all others would be 'switched' off but due to this experience I'm wondering if all the focus points kind of remain active and influence the AF but it just uses the 'chosen one' to gain critical sharpness?

Anyone have any thoughts on this?
 
If you wanted wide there was a nice 14-24mm on classified a while ago :ROFLMAO::LOL:
 
Swanseajack said:
Very nice, I have been looking at the Sigma this week, whats your general thought on the lens?

I was hoping to carryout a bit of Macro and I have only owned a MF true macro lens, the Vivitar 55 f2.8 which I used on my XT1 with adapters but I wasn't steady enough so VR would be useful, also owned the Fuji 60mm which was 1:2. Looking at the photo it seems to perform very well for portraits too.
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Hi Simon,

The 105mm OS is one of the best Sigma lenses I've ever owned... To be honest, the Fuji 60mm is a joke. It wasn't bad for portraits but as a macro lens, it was dire. The Sigma's in a different league entirely and you'd be hard pressed to find a better lens for the money. :)
 
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