Nikon D750 & D780

twist said:
Ive seen them around £600 quite a lot. Not a huge bargain imo. The ART is a great price though.
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Yup it's not obscenely cheap like the Art, but it is cheap :) Average on eBay seems nearer £750 and used suppliers are nearer £800-850.
 
ukaskew said:
Yup it's not obscenely cheap like the Art, but it is cheap :) Average on eBay seems nearer £750 and used suppliers are nearer £800-850.
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Ebay prices are quite optimistic. Sometimes goods can be had from dealers cheaper and definitely cheaper on forums. Ive seen VRs in great condition between 6-700 from dealers. Very rarely find bargains on Ebay these days unless the seller doesnt understand the fee structure.
 
twist said:
Ebay prices are quite optimistic. Sometimes goods can be had from dealers cheaper and definitely cheaper on forums. Ive seen VRs in great condition between 6-700 from dealers. Very rarely find bargains on Ebay these days unless the seller doesnt understand the fee structure.
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This is true. The fees have killed off any bargains. Owners of ebay must be billionairs by now.

Paypal fees are not too bad, but the ebay fees are through the roof.
 
twist said:
Ebay prices are quite optimistic. Sometimes goods can be had from dealers cheaper and definitely cheaper on forums. Ive seen VRs in great condition between 6-700 from dealers. Very rarely find bargains on Ebay these days unless the seller doesnt understand the fee structure.
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I was looking at actual sold prices.
 
minnnt said:
I'm most definitely a #7.
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Then you need a 150-600mm ;) :p Mine certainly draws lots of attention which is not a good thing for me as people expect your pics to be really good :oops: :$ :LOL:
 
pjm1 said:
1. Because I like looking at what I've captured
2. Because I like showing others what I've captured
3. Because I like having and buying gear
4. Because I aspire to have the best gear
5. Because I aspire to take the best photos
6. Because I want other people to go "wow" (related to 2)
7. Because I want other people to go "wow" at my gear (related to 4)
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1, 2, 5 for me and of course a passionate hobby that I would like to pursue and perhaps one day think of it as a profession.

Not too worried about gear at the moment. After the buying the D750, my itch to upgrade is gone and based on my current need, scope of shooting I am quite content with what I have. There is a slight itch for a 35 or 50mm prime.

Those who got the Sigma 35 Art or Sigma 50 Art and had the Nikon 35 or 50 before, do you know shoot more with the 50 or you are more satisfied with the output if not shoot more?
 
anibap said:
1, 2, 5 for me and of course a passionate hobby that I would like to pursue and perhaps one day think of it as a profession.

Not too worried about gear at the moment. After the buying the D750, my itch to upgrade is gone and based on my current need, scope of shooting I am quite content with what I have. There is a slight itch for a 35 or 50mm prime.

Those who got the Sigma 35 Art or Sigma 50 Art and had the Nikon 35 or 50 before, do you know shoot more with the 50 or you are more satisfied with the output if not shoot more?
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My only itch is for a camera that doesn't exist :lol: ie a D750 with 36mp (for cropping when shooting wildlife to negate my need/want for a crop body), AF spread of the D500 and liveview of the Sony A77-II. Until that camera comes out I really have no need/desire to consider an upgrade ;)
 
I would like the next generation of bodies to have our D750's manual focus indicators but applied to composition. Little arrows in the viewfinder that point left, right, up, down, forwards or backwards to indicate which way you should move and point the camera in order to get that perfect shot. And a green dot which blinks at the moment you should press the shutter.

That'd be a nice touch.
 
At this rate of interest it will be staying lol
 
Anyone used their D750 for timelapse? Seems to be two ways in the D750 - interval and video time lapse? Any thoughts on either?

Edit: I've got a video timelapse going now for ten minutes of traffic in the city just to see what happens when the shutter stops going :D
 
UaeExile said:
Anyone used their D750 for timelapse? Seems to be two ways in the D750 - interval and video time lapse? Any thoughts on either?

Edit: I've got a video timelapse going now for ten minutes of traffic in the city just to see what happens when the shutter stops going :D
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I've used the interval options, but I buggered up the exposure, lol

It worked well though!
 
KitsuneAndy said:
I've used the interval options, but I buggered up the exposure, lol

It worked well though!
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Woah I just used the video version - it basically just makes the video for you rather than giving you hundreds of frames. I know it won't be ideal for people wanting more control but I think for what I'll be using it for it might be decent.
 
UaeExile said:
Woah I just used the video version - it basically just makes the video for you rather than giving you hundreds of frames. I know it won't be ideal for people wanting more control but I think for what I'll be using it for it might be decent.
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I didn't even know that was an option tbh
 
KitsuneAndy said:
I didn't even know that was an option tbh
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Yeah I stumbled across it in the video menu. I've just set mine away to do a sunset video timelapse over the city (just from my livingroom window) to see how well it works with the transition from night to day. Only 1hr 45minutes to see if it worked :eek:
 
UaeExile said:
Surely all timelapses do that?
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If they're genuine video timelapses (i.e. record individual frames of video at video resolution, keeping the mirror up and shutter open) then it's just a single shutter actuation? If it's a video made up of hundreds of individual shots with the shutter opening & closing for each one then that must be a bad thing.

No different I guess from going out and shooting 1000 frames but at least you're actively doing that - leaving the camera running for an hour or ten at a time burning through shutter life feels less comfortable to me for some reason?! Just me probably!
 
pjm1 said:
If they're genuine video timelapses (i.e. record individual frames of video at video resolution, keeping the mirror up and shutter open) then it's just a single shutter actuation? If it's a video made up of hundreds of individual shots with the shutter opening & closing for each one then that must be a bad thing.

No different I guess from going out and shooting 1000 frames but at least you're actively doing that - leaving the camera running for an hour or ten at a time burning through shutter life feels less comfortable to me for some reason?! Just me probably!
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No I think this is the latter, i.e. hundreds or individual shots which the camera then converts to a MOV file. I know that because every 10 seconds I can hear it clang away and it's driving the Mrs wild :D

I'm not particularly bothered by shutter actuations etc. If I ever get to the point where I need to replace the shutter I know I'll have had my moneys worth!

Anyway. We'll see how this turns out. Be interesting to see if nothing else! :banana:
 
So my new Sigma 85mm's arrived and it's got me questioning once again whether my camera's AF system is fubar. I've wondered it before as most of my lenses front focus, some by quite a margin, and obviously there's the recent experience with the used Sigma (although that had a decentering issue).

Firstly I had the same issue I've had with all sigma's I've used with this camera in that AF fine tune hardly makes any difference, and at +20 it still front focuses. However, if I change the default fine tune to +10 it fixes the front focus. However, when default fine tune is set to +10 the outer two rows of the AF on the right side of the frame are way out, and the outer row on the left is way out. All the rest appear fine. At 0 fine tune the outer 2 rows on the right are fine but the rest are out. At +6 on default fine tune the outer left are fine, but the rest are very slightly out.

So I think the lens is going back until I sort my camera out, but before I send my camera off to Nikon and make myself look more of a muppet than usual would you expect the outer AF points to be OK with an f1.4 lens, or should you stick to the central ones only?

On a positive note the new sigma works in liveview and when sharp is much sharper than the used copy.
 
snerkler said:
So my new Sigma 85mm's arrived and it's got me questioning once again whether my camera's AF system is fubar. I've wondered it before as most of my lenses front focus, some by quite a margin, and obviously there's the recent experience with the used Sigma (although that had a decentering issue).

Firstly I had the same issue I've had with all sigma's I've used with this camera in that AF fine tune hardly makes any difference, and at +20 it still front focuses. However, if I change the default fine tune to +10 it fixes the front focus. However, when default fine tune is set to +10 the outer two rows of the AF on the right side of the frame are way out, and the outer row on the left is way out. All the rest appear fine. At 0 fine tune the outer 2 rows on the right are fine but the rest are out. At +6 on default fine tune the outer left are fine, but the rest are very slightly out.

So I think the lens is going back until I sort my camera out, but before I send my camera off to Nikon and make myself look more of a muppet than usual would you expect the outer AF points to be OK with an f1.4 lens, or should you stick to the central ones only?

On a positive note the new sigma works in liveview and when sharp is much sharper than the used copy.
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Youve had issues with almost every lens youve bought. Time to get that camera in.
 
snerkler said:
So my new Sigma 85mm's arrived and it's got me questioning once again whether my camera's AF system is fubar. I've wondered it before as most of my lenses front focus, some by quite a margin, and obviously there's the recent experience with the used Sigma (although that had a decentering issue).

Firstly I had the same issue I've had with all sigma's I've used with this camera in that AF fine tune hardly makes any difference, and at +20 it still front focuses. However, if I change the default fine tune to +10 it fixes the front focus. However, when default fine tune is set to +10 the outer two rows of the AF on the right side of the frame are way out, and the outer row on the left is way out. All the rest appear fine. At 0 fine tune the outer 2 rows on the right are fine but the rest are out. At +6 on default fine tune the outer left are fine, but the rest are very slightly out.

So I think the lens is going back until I sort my camera out, but before I send my camera off to Nikon and make myself look more of a muppet than usual would you expect the outer AF points to be OK with an f1.4 lens, or should you stick to the central ones only?

On a positive note the new sigma works in liveview and when sharp is much sharper than the used copy.
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Did it get recalled for the flare issue?
 
For the purpose of experimentation only, here's a quick timelapse video created in camera on the D750.

I got my sunset timings wrong so it cuts out just as things are getting interesting, which is a shame, but if you're interested in timelapse as a beginner it's an absolute doddle to do as the camera takes the frames and creates the video for you. Obviously it's all compressed so the output it significantly reduced. For a 17 second video it only came in at 21mb - smaller than a single RAW from the D750.

EDIT: This was also shot through a window, hence the murky/dull colours.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X9afZYeu1A&feature=youtu.be
 
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snerkler said:
So my new Sigma 85mm's arrived and it's got me questioning once again whether my camera's AF system is fubar. I've wondered it before as most of my lenses front focus, some by quite a margin, and obviously there's the recent experience with the used Sigma (although that had a decentering issue).

Firstly I had the same issue I've had with all sigma's I've used with this camera in that AF fine tune hardly makes any difference, and at +20 it still front focuses. However, if I change the default fine tune to +10 it fixes the front focus. However, when default fine tune is set to +10 the outer two rows of the AF on the right side of the frame are way out, and the outer row on the left is way out. All the rest appear fine. At 0 fine tune the outer 2 rows on the right are fine but the rest are out. At +6 on default fine tune the outer left are fine, but the rest are very slightly out.

So I think the lens is going back until I sort my camera out, but before I send my camera off to Nikon and make myself look more of a muppet than usual would you expect the outer AF points to be OK with an f1.4 lens, or should you stick to the central ones only?

On a positive note the new sigma works in liveview and when sharp is much sharper than the used copy.
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Why send the lens back when it's the camera that's f***ed? Instead of fannying around with lenses back and forth just get the camera sorted. Simples.
 
anibap said:
All DSLRs will have dust at some point. Amount of dust will vary based on many factors. Mirrorless I understand will be prone to more dust on sensor without the mirror in between.

The point is no matter what you buy be prepared to clean sensor as a regular maintenance.

Buy what you really want. If I were you I would have given the DSLR some more time before making a decision as it seems you don't shoot much.

I tried A7 and A7R at a sony event and although I liked the lightweight form factor, but couldn't get in terms with the EVF (may be I need to try again) and on top of that unless I go full prime most good zoom lenses are heavy and will be bit odd on such a small body and the weight difference will go away. Having said that many have moved from DSLR to Sony and they are happy.
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I spent ages trying the A7II & A7RII and the D750 side by side. I moved up from Olympus and really wanted an EVF but couldn't get on with the A7II for lots of other reasons, documented at length here.
 
UaeExile said:
For the purpose of experimentation only, here's a quick timelapse video created in camera on the D750.

I got my sunset timings wrong so it cuts out just as things are getting interesting, which is a shame, but if you're interested in timelapse as a beginner it's an absolute doddle to do as the camera takes the frames and creates the video for you. Obviously it's all compressed so the output it significantly reduced. For a 17 second video it only came in at 21mb - smaller than a single RAW from the D750.

EDIT: This was also shot through a window, hence the murky/dull colours.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X9afZYeu1A&feature=youtu.be
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That's pretty cool mate. It really started to come alive at the end. Will give it a go. Thanks for the info.
 
twist said:
Youve had issues with almost every lens youve bought. Time to get that camera in.
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KitsuneAndy said:
Did it get recalled for the flare issue?
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minnnt said:
Why send the lens back when it's the camera that's f***ed? Instead of fannying around with lenses back and forth just get the camera sorted. Simples.
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Well an interesting turn of developments. My mate's popped round and I've tried the Sigma on his D7000 with pretty much the same result, although slightly less AF tune needed. However, when it was tuned to the point the centre point was right all of a sudden the outer ones didn't work. He's brought my old 50mm f1.8 round and that's fine on all AF points regardless of needing +18 fine tune on mine, and I've just tried my 70-200mm f2.8 and all AF points are bang on every time (AF tune set to +12).

So whilst my camera does front focus it would appear the AF points work fine once tuned (should've really compared against the 70-200mm earlier :oops: :$). For some reason my camera doesn't seem to like Sigma, that's two 70-200's and two 85mm's I've tried now. I only use my sigma macro lens with manual focus so never noticed an issue with that ;)

I'm going to send the 85mm back for an exchange and if that doesn't work I'm going to give up on Sigma I think and get the Nikon f1.8 (unless JJ would accept £600 for his f1.4 :LOL:) I may try the sigma art if and when it's released though.

Yes it has been in for the flare issue.
 
minnnt said:
That's pretty cool mate. It really started to come alive at the end. Will give it a go. Thanks for the info.
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Well the quality of the video for various reasons is naff but it's really peaked my interest with timelapse/film making. Thinking of doing a video of our summer but something a bit more than a slideshow with cheesy music.

Mess around with timelapse. music, text overlays, vlog-style possibly. I think it could be a cool little project.

Edit: It's actually your fault I cut it off early. You see, to my eyes it looked dark outside but because you insisted I crank up the exposure fine tuning I did and it's made the video appear much brighter :mad:
 
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snerkler said:
PMSL at 7 :ROFLMAO: ;)

But you have made a very good point. Maybe @rookies just needs to admit/accept he has GAS and it's nothing to do with the sharpness of the pics, or lightness of his equipment? ;)

I fit into 1,2,3,5, and 6. I do fit into 4 as well but more to do with 5 rather than the gear itself (and before we get onto the 'argument' of the tog is the important bit there are times when the gear can improve your shot ;)). 7 matters little to me, but you've missed one very important reason imo, the pleasure of just taking the pics and using the camera. I enjoy the process of taking a photo as much, if not more, than the end product.
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@rookies, I don't think you've just got GAS - that'd make you want new kit regardless of your current setup. Instead, you're perpetually unsatisfied with what you do have.

Is it because you don't actually like photography? I don't think I've ever seen one of your pictures.
Or is it because you're frustrated that what you're producing doesn't meet your own high expectations?

If it is the latter and you've got some spare cash then spend it on training. It's easily the best value upgrades that I've shelled out for.
 
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