Nikon D750 & D780

Anyone bought from simply electronics? Or in general are they a place to avoid?
 
Paulie-W said:
After Davids intense rapid (wet), frantic and very good shots, I thought I`d slow things down a little ...

On time by Paulie-W, on Flickr
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That's one very nice shot Paul, spot on composition with a full range of tones and well suited to the B&W/Sepia treatment.(y)

George.
 
minnnt said:
A few more from yesterday.

Wales RallyGB - 2015 by David Raynham, on Flickr
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Stunning photo David, I think I am mostly going to blame you for me needing/wanting a D750 (but don't worry I won't tell the missus lol), and the results from the 24-70mm are amazing, I don't miss the weight/bulk but blimey the results speak for themselves.

Oh decisions...
 
Had a play today with my 85/1.8 on the D750 and a 28 equivalent compact (Coolpix A) and came back with 65 pics - seven using the 85. One of which is kinda OK. I know it's sharp, I know it does great shallow DOF, but TBH those aren't things that excite me about a lens. Back on the shelf it goes, it just doesn't work for me. :( Unlike the D750, which is bloody brilliant! :)

 
Can I ask you guys a couple of questions about your D750:

1. If you were to only use one general purpose lens on say, a trip where you wanted to travel lightly but also wanted the best possible IQ (for the size) which one would you choose? Perhaps the Nikon 35 f1.8 or Sigma 35 f1.4?

2. If you were shooting people moving or kids playing or traffic, how would you set up the AF? Could you use this for stills or do you have to change the AF setting?

Thanks!
 
southernjessie said:
Can I ask you guys a couple of questions about your D750:

1. If you were to only use one general purpose lens on say, a trip where you wanted to travel lightly but also wanted the best possible IQ (for the size) which one would you choose? Perhaps the Nikon 35 f1.8 or Sigma 35 f1.4?

2. If you were shooting people moving or kids playing or traffic, how would you set up the AF? Could you use this for stills or do you have to change the AF setting?

Thanks!
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1: The Nikon for the weight saving but the Sigma for the ultimate in IQ.

2: AF-C and yes, you can use it for everything although it is one click to select AF-S.
 
southernjessie said:
Can I ask you guys a couple of questions about your D750:

1. If you were to only use one general purpose lens on say, a trip where you wanted to travel lightly but also wanted the best possible IQ (for the size) which one would you choose? Perhaps the Nikon 35 f1.8 or Sigma 35 f1.4?

2. If you were shooting people moving or kids playing or traffic, how would you set up the AF? Could you use this for stills or do you have to change the AF setting?

Thanks!
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1. If you're happy only using a prime then a 35mm f1.8 or 50mm f1.8 would make a great light combo. If I use a camera for travel I find a prime too restrictive and so prefer a short zoom. My preference is the 24-70mm f2.8 but this isn't light. The 24-120mm f4 might be a good compromise. I'm lucky that I also have an EM5-II for travel/trips.

2. For most moving things I use single point C-AF, sometimes with 3d tracking. You can use this for static subjects too on the D750 and focus is tack sharp. You can even use back button focussing with c-af for even more control, allowing you to focus and recompose whils still in c-af.
 
When I travel light I use the 24-85 or a 28/50 (both f1.8) pair - or just the 28. But I'm weird because I'm not obsessed with sharpness and bokeh, so I fully expect to be ignored and/or slated.:D

As for setting up the focus it's dead simple. Map the AE-L button to AF-ON and set the camera to AF-C. That gives you the best of both worlds for moving and static subjects - and focus/recompose proved it is set to fire on release rather than focus. If you further set AF-S so it will only fire on attaining focus you have another option which I find particularly useful for close-ups.
 
David - did you use AF-C for your fantastic rally pics? My other half has a D5300 and I get flummoxed with how many combinations you can have.

I'm basically looking for a setting (if it exists) where you can capture movement and still life with tack sharp results.

minnnt said:
1: The Nikon for the weight saving but the Sigma for the ultimate in IQ.

2: AF-C and yes, you can use it for everything although it is one click to select AF-S.
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snerkler said:
1. If you're happy only using a prime then a 35mm f1.8 or 50mm f1.8 would make a great light combo. If I use a camera for travel I find a prime too restrictive and so prefer a short zoom. My preference is the 24-70mm f2.8 but this isn't light. The 24-120mm f4 might be a good compromise. I'm lucky that I also have an EM5-II for travel/trips.

2. For most moving things I use single point C-AF, sometimes with 3d tracking. You can use this for static subjects too on the D750 and focus is tack sharp. You can even use back button focussing with c-af for even more control, allowing you to focus and recompose whils still in c-af.
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I used to use focus/re-compose but had to give it up and use the focus area to move the AF point as I heard and was convinced that focus/re wouldn't work properly because it's difficult to stay on the same plane of focus, especially when using wide apertures. I would love to use this technique again since I hate moving the AF point all the time.
 
Ed Sutton said:
When I travel light I use the 24-85 or a 28/50 (both f1.8) pair - or just the 28. But I'm weird because I'm not obsessed with sharpness and bokeh, so I fully expect to be ignored and/or slated.:D

As for setting up the focus it's dead simple. Map the AE-L button to AF-ON and set the camera to AF-C. That gives you the best of both worlds for moving and static subjects - and focus/recompose proved it is set to fire on release rather than focus. If you further set AF-S so it will only fire on attaining focus you have another option which I find particularly useful for close-ups.
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Ed - my reply to Snerkler relates to what you said as well about focus/re-compose. I didn't think people still used this with success.

Btw - I used to have the 24-85 VR but just didn't find it as good as the primes (e.g. 50 f1.8)
 
southernjessie said:
I used to use focus/re-compose but had to give it up and use the focus area to move the AF point as I heard and was convinced that focus/re wouldn't work properly because it's difficult to stay on the same plane of focus, especially when using wide apertures. I would love to use this technique again since I hate moving the AF point all the time.
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Practice practice practice. I 'know' a number of pros who will use nothing but centre focus and always use focus recompose as they say the centre point is most accurate and they often don't have time during a shoot to keep shifting the focus point around. I do tend to move the focus point but on FF the AF spread isn't that great so even if using an outer point I still sometimes have to focus recompose. Obviously using wide apertures you have to be very careful.
 
southernjessie said:
Ed - my reply to Snerkler relates to what you said as well about focus/re-compose. I didn't think people still used this with success.

Btw - I used to have the 24-85 VR but just didn't find it as good as the primes (e.g. 50 f1.8)
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Like I said, I didn't expect anyone to agree with me. :D
 
IME Focus recompose has its place with 'slower' lenses but with fast lenses (f1.4) on FF moving the point is more accurate, you can still use a variation of focus recompose with this technique to reach the outer edges of the frame but because youve selected the point thats closest to the point of focus already theres less room for error.

I used to only use focus recompose back in the day of slower AF systems like the Canon 5Dc, but most cameras these days outer points are very good.
 
"Group CF" is ace - as is 3D CF.... I need to get out more.
 
southernjessie said:
Can I ask you guys a couple of questions about your D750:

1. If you were to only use one general purpose lens on say, a trip where you wanted to travel lightly but also wanted the best possible IQ (for the size) which one would you choose? Perhaps the Nikon 35 f1.8 or Sigma 35 f1.4?

2. If you were shooting people moving or kids playing or traffic, how would you set up the AF? Could you use this for stills or do you have to change the AF setting?

Thanks!
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1. if you are talking about a general purpose single lens for light travel, I can recommend the 24-85 VR, I have it and like it for what it is. It is often snubbed as a kit lens, but I think with VR, great centre sharpness, good micro-contrast, light weight this lens is difficult to beat as a general walk around. Its downsides like distortion can be fixed in post. My next recommendation will be Tamron 24-70 2.8, bit heavy but has VR. For general and travel photography VR is quite important to me, more than a few stops wider lenses as you would need more dof than shallow dof at places while shooting mostly environmental stuff indoors or outdoors in low light. If you are happy with changing lenses, I'd say go for a 20 mm F1.8 and a 35 F1.8. Extremely lightweight and allows you to use shallow dof when needed, but you'd loose VR. While travelling if you prefer shooting indoors likes churches etc, the 20 mm will be extremely useful for that as well as landscapes. I am seriously looking at the 20mm as at times 24mm is not enough. For 20mm, the Nikon 1.8 G is really good. For 35, check the new Tammy as it has VR and has more uniform performance than Nikon 1.8G at wider apertures. The Sigma will give you best IQ and 1.4, but for travel it is bit heavy.

I was also checking the Tamron 15-30 2.8 with VC. Phenomenal performance and uniform sharpness all, but bit heavy (1100 gm, 3 times heavier than 24-85) and expensive. I might consider that some day for travelling. Having seen some images with it, I am excited. The lens is now at a discount (£749) at some stores in UK with 5 year warranty and is cheaper or close to grey price

If you don't need wider than 24 (you may soon realise you need), the Nikon 24-70 2.8 is best optic you can buy for a general purpose zoom followed by Tamron 24-70 (if you can get a good copy). Buy the VR version if you need VR, but is also apprx 1100 gm.

2. AF-C with back button focus (AF-On) and single focus point. For kids running, Group AF/D9/ D21/ Group AF depending on size of subject on focus in order of small-->large. Getting used to AF-On can improve efficiency and precision in shooting. I will never go back although it took some time for me to get used to. AF-C with AF-On method will allow you to shoot still subjects in the same way you'd do AF-S, so it is a versatile method
 
Thanks very much for all the responses. Anibap - thanks for going into so much detail, your suggestions and info on AF-On were very helpful.

David (minnnt) is probably the only one who knows that I'm into Fuji X gear as I purchased his wonderful 50-140 lens on this forum. I used to be a Nikon user, having had a D40, D90 and then D600. I moved away from Nikon for one of the most common reasons: size/weight issues. I'm very happy with Fuji with respect to still shots - I just love the lenses. I bought my other half a used D5200 as I kept some of my Nikkor lenses.

I may have a few opportunities to take social party events, specifically dancing in low-light halls. It's this that I'm a bit concerned about with my Fuji cameras (X-T1 and X-T10). I know that the D750 is fantastic with AF in low light. At the moment the price isn't too bad on Panamoz. My problem is with the lenses - I wouldn't know what to get and would want excellent IQ without a huge weight penalty. I didn't realise that there was a Tamron 35mm with VC, When I had my Nikons, I chose to stick with Nikkor lenses as I believed they were better overall than Sigma, Tamron etc. Obviously, it looks like Sigma has upped its game with the ART lenses.

So, I'm not sure whether to invest in a two brand system by buying a D750, or waiting until the X-Pro2 or X-T2 are launched, to see if their AF has been improved to close the gap on DSLRs. It's probably not a decision you folks can help with, but I just wanted to find out more about how you use your D750 for action, and which lenses you really like, that do the D750 justice.
 
southernjessie said:
Can I ask you guys a couple of questions about your D750:

1. If you were to only use one general purpose lens on say, a trip where you wanted to travel lightly but also wanted the best possible IQ (for the size) which one would you choose? Perhaps the Nikon 35 f1.8 or Sigma 35 f1.4?

2. If you were shooting people moving or kids playing or traffic, how would you set up the AF? Could you use this for stills or do you have to change the AF setting?

Thanks!
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Its a difficult one to answer as everyone's needs are different, 3 years ago with a D600 I visited Milan, Venice and Rome, and I used a Sigma 35mm f1.4 for about 80% of the shots, but I did also have an 85mm f1.8D and Samyang 14mm f2.8 with me too, having been on a few trips since then with Nikon FF gear (D800 and D750) I think I'd take a zoom now for most things instead.

Honestly the Nikon 24-120 f4 has to be the perfect travel lens, I only wish I'd realised before my trip in the summer.... I took the D750, 18-35G, Tamron 24-70 f2.8, Tamron 70-300 VC and frankly wished I'd just taken one of them, the 24-70 was the most used but with a 24-120 I reckon I could have done without the 70-300 as I didn't really use it beyond 140-150mm.

The 24-120 and maybe even a couple of primes (20mm f1.8G and either the 35mm f1.8G or 50mm f1.8G will likely be my travel kit in future.
 
southernjessie said:
I may have a few opportunities to take social party events, specifically dancing in low-light halls. It's this that I'm a bit concerned about with my Fuji cameras (X-T1 and X-T10). I know that the D750 is fantastic with AF in low light. At the moment the price isn't too bad on Panamoz. My problem is with the lenses - I wouldn't know what to get and would want excellent IQ without a huge weight penalty. I didn't realise that there was a Tamron 35mm with VC, When I had my Nikons, I chose to stick with Nikkor lenses as I believed they were better overall than Sigma, Tamron etc. Obviously, it looks like Sigma has upped its game with the ART lenses.

.
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The 50mm f1.8 is an excellent quality lens, cheap (£130 new UK price) and very light indeed. 50mm on FF isn't too restrictive either, field of view is a touch wider than 35mm on crop body.
 
I still have a 50mm f1.8 (G lens). It's what I used to use on the D600, but I prefer wider like 35mm or better still, 24mm.
 
southernjessie said:
I still have a 50mm f1.8 (G lens). It's what I used to use on the D600, but I prefer wider like 35mm or better still, 24mm.
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35mm f1.8's still pretty light and reasonably cheap. The 24mm f1.8's still pretty light but puts much more of a dent in your wallet.
 
I have got to be different :D and my prefered setting is AFA, which gives the best of both worlds of AFC & AFS. I used it mostly for my bird photography in the garden and with small birds, like Blue Tits which can be very fast movers, particularly their heads and it seems to work for me. I find sometimes AFC hunts to much for my liking.

I also use BBF and single or nine point focus with spot or weighted metering.
 
Swanseajack said:
I have got to be different :D and my prefered setting is AFA, which gives the best of both worlds of AFC & AFS. I used it mostly for my bird photography in the garden and with small birds, like Blue Tits which can be very fast movers, particularly their heads and it seems to work for me. I find sometimes AFC hunts to much for my liking.

I also use BBF and single or nine point focus with spot or weighted metering.
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Does AF-A actually work well on this camera then? If so it'd be the first camera I've come across that does ;)
 
snerkler said:
Does AF-A actually work well on this camera then? If so it'd be the first camera I've come across that does ;)
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I just went out for a smoke and the light is getting loooow here now and I tried AFA and AFC, they both locked on the targets, but in AFC mode, the little arrow was pointing to show it was trying to achieve focus but it was continually hunting. Give it a go and see how you get on. I have prefered this mode on my D7000, D7100 and now the D750.
 
Swanseajack said:
I just went out for a smoke and the light is getting loooow here now and I tried AFA and AFC, they both locked on the targets, but in AFC mode, the little arrow was pointing to show it was trying to achieve focus but it was continually hunting. Give it a go and see how you get on. I have prefered this mode on my D7000, D7100 and now the D750.
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Purely out of curiosity I will, but my guess is that AFA will be in AF-S mode for these examples. AF-C is constantly changing gaining focus, that's the point. AF-A will select AF-S or AF-C depending on what it sees fit (which you probably will already know) so in these circumstances it might be that AF-S was a better choice. I can't say I've had hunting from my camera (except in almost total darkness) using AF-C, but it is constantly working away, as you'd expect.

I will give AF-A a go though. It'd be interesting if the focus lock bleep sounds when it chooses AF-S, or whether this is disabled in AF-A.
 
Swanseajack said:
Any particular reason your going back to Canon? Doesn't seem you have given the D750 much of a workout if less than 200 clicks. Anyway, GLWTS.
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Insanity would be my guess :p
 
Has anyone sent their D750 in for the shutter issue and if so what work was done? Do they replace the whole shutter or just certain parts?
 
Swanseajack said:
Any particular reason your going back to Canon? Doesn't seem you have given the D750 much of a workout if less than 200 clicks. Anyway, GLWTS.
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I guess I haven't really given it a chance but I just don't have the patience to learn a new system. I know it sounds stupid but when I got my 6D, I put on 1500 clicks in the first two weeks since I was used to Canon from owning previous models. I just don't have the same urge to go out and shoot with the D750 as I'm constantly messing around with the buttons and dials. I have no complaints about its performance, just the user :)

I may not go back to a Canon though, I'm taking this opportunity to rethink my needs and kit. I've been using a Sony compact and I've very impressed with it it so I might live with that as my only camera and see what I'm missing and go from there.
 
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