Nikon D3xxx owners thread

Just a generic one off eBay for about £19.99, someone bought it as a present for me.
 
I've got a hahnel shutter release as a free gift when I subscribed to n photo it's a wired one but has a extension wire.
 
:wave: I'm thinking I wouldn't mind an ocf, now without Googling it, I have no idea what I'd need :thinking:

Obviously I'd need a flash. I'm guessing I'd need a trigger, do these plug into the same socket as the remote shutter release? (what makes me think that?
shrug2.gif
)

Nothing expensive, I'm happy with cheap and cheerful to start me off, any recommendations please? :)

Also, just an after thought, is it possible to trigger 2 ocf's with a D3100? This really is new territory to me :)

Cheers, Phil
 
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Phil-D said:
:wave: I'm thinking I wouldn't mind an ocf, now without Googling it, I have no idea what I'd need :thinking:

Obviously I'd need a flash. I'm guessing I'd need a trigger, do these plug into the same socket as the remote shutter release? (what makes me think that?
shrug2.gif
)

Nothing expensive, I'm happy with cheap and cheerful to start me off, any recommendations please? :)

Also, just an after thought, is it possible to trigger 2 ocf's with a D3100? This really is new territory to me :)

Cheers, Phil
Click to expand...


There are several ways to get ocf. Many flash guns have a slave mode that will trigger the flash once it detects another flash. They are fairly sensitive and I have used this to good effect with the camera flash that I had reflected off the ceiling or behind me.

Or the proper way to do it is with a couple of flash guns and some wireless transmitters. Some guns come with the command units built in, I have the yongnuo 568 which has it built in, and the wireless units are the yongnuo 622 (I believe) which bolt to the top of your camera in your hotshoe but connect to and operate the flash guns. Hth.
 
george g said:
There are several ways to get ocf. Many flash guns have a slave mode that will trigger the flash once it detects another flash. They are fairly sensitive and I have used this to good effect with the camera flash that I had reflected off the ceiling or behind me.

Or the proper way to do it is with a couple of flash guns and some wireless transmitters. Some guns come with the command units built in, I have the yongnuo 568 which has it built in, and the wireless units are the yongnuo 622 (I believe) which bolt to the top of your camera in your hotshoe but connect to and operate the flash guns. Hth.
Click to expand...

Thanks george, it gives me something to look at. So the trigger works off the hot shoe then? What made me think the trigger worked from the same socket as the shutter release I'll never know.
 
Hi,
so this camera will never be a speed freak - however there are times when it seems to take a long time to write to the card. So question:

so has anyone gone from a class 4 to a class 10 SD card in their D3100 - and if so did you notice a significant increase in write speeds?
thanks
 
I have a 64gd class 10 in mine and don't normally have any problems although I did some long exposure stuff and it took a long time to process but I think I have noise reduction turned on.
 
so i decided to try it (after all a Sandisk 8GB ultra is less than £6).

Previously I was using basic class 4 cards and you can see a material difference on how long the camera locks up for when you are in machine-gun mode.
 
bdslr said:
Hi,
so this camera will never be a speed freak - however there are times when it seems to take a long time to write to the card. So question:

so has anyone gone from a class 4 to a class 10 SD card in their D3100 - and if so did you notice a significant increase in write speeds?
thanks
Click to expand...

I dont use a 3100 but the principle is the same. Itll make a difference in burst shootin as it aids the buffer but if your talkin about long exposures then just turn off noise reduction and d lighting and process it later yourself.
Id stay clear of cards bigger that 16gb as there not needed. Change cards and if a card fails you dont lose everything. And if your filling a 16gb card in a day shoot then your either a wildlife tog who prob isnt going to be using a 3100 or someone whos machine gunning and should have the camera taken off them lol
 
Those are really lovely Martin.
Beautiful light, capture and processing.

How was Blackpool? :coat:
 
bdslr said:
Those are really lovely Martin.
Beautiful light, capture and processing.

How was Blackpool? :coat:
Click to expand...
Thanks Brian.
Only had a small lightweight tripod and it wasn't tall enough to see over the handrail on the bridge. I had to balance the camera on the handrail and use the delay timer. Took several attempts until I got a shot with no boats travelling through the shot!
 
Great stuff
I'm always worried about dropping the camera in those situations
Go on - anyone one else want to share?
 
I don't have a d3100 anymore but I processed this earlier. In hindsight, I wish I'd kept it and not upgraded to the d7000


george by damianmkv, on Flickr
 
So go on
Why do you wish u had not changed to the D7000?
 
I ( wrongly ) thought it would bring me better IQ but there is pretty much no difference at all. Ok, it brings easier access to the camera functions but that ease cost £300 or so.

My own fault really - I should've researched it more thoroughly. 6 months in, I wonder why I did it
 
Interesting - I keep looking at the prices of D7000 s - I'll be good :)
 
I've just join the D3100 family got one today with the 18-55 VR kit
 
just unpacked it all, no USB lead in the kit??? was there one in yours?
 
p3ryg said:
View attachment 14024

Here's one taken using the 35mm - getting used to the 3100 now I still struggle with indoor shots though
Click to expand...
Really? What's wrong with that one? Eye's look sharp, light falls off nicely down her, and a cracking expression?

Indoors - don't be afraid to use ISO!

Edit to say there is no USB in the box
 
Thanks for the comment - that one is fine - yesterday however I struggled in a hall with a bouncy castle and fast moving kids on soft play area. Just did not know what the best setting was - not even looked at them yet as I know they will mostly be binned.
 
p3ryg said:
Thanks for the comment - that one is fine - yesterday however I struggled in a hall with a bouncy castle and fast moving kids on soft play area. Just did not know what the best setting was - not even looked at them yet as I know they will mostly be binned.
Click to expand...
In a situation like that I would use Auto ISO - better to get the picture with some noise - than one with blur.
Auto ISO set to 1600 (I know I can go higher but 1600 is high enough), min shutter speed down to 1/30 (I think you can set it to that). AP, and then focusing set to dynamic.
 
p3ryg said:
Thanks for the comment - that one is fine - yesterday however I struggled in a hall with a bouncy castle and fast moving kids on soft play area. Just did not know what the best setting was - not even looked at them yet as I know they will mostly be binned.
Click to expand...

Perry

I've told you to keep off the bouncy castle, they are for the kids!

Nice shot though

Doug
 
bdslr said:
In a situation like that I would use Auto ISO - better to get the picture with some noise - than one with blur.
Auto ISO set to 1600 (I know I can go higher but 1600 is high enough), min shutter speed down to 1/30 (I think you can set it to that). AP, and then focusing set to dynamic.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice I was using manual program and auto ISO and used the turn wheel to get exposure in the middle (hope that makes) trying hardest to stay with manual as much as possible - what was the AP part ?
 
hamster100 said:
Perry

I've told you to keep off the bouncy castle, they are for the kids!

Nice shot though

Doug
Click to expand...


As for you, you're just jealous as I got on a bouncy castle and you haven't yet - and had jelly and ice cream to boot ;-)
 
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