Nikon 300 f2.8, Nikon 400 f2.8 or a Nikon 200/400 f4 for shooting wildlife and birds in Malaysia

b****r, not a good start.
 
ndwgolf said:
maybe the D3s doesn't like the weight of the new lens :(
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I seriously doubt that unless you've been doing anything that has really pressured it - have you checked it hasn't just moved on the contacts when turning it?
 
Yep and I have been extra carful with it as it is new, there also feels like some slack in the mount so that is my gut feeling the lens mount has been stressed. I have done all my shooting hand held so maybe I have been grabbing the body first rather than the lens. Anyway they say it will take ~2 weeks to get it looked at and fixed so will drop it off today and collet it when I return back to Malaysia after my month in Nigeria
 
ndwgolf said:
I have either damaged the lens mount on the body of my D3s or on the lens so I am taking them both to the Nikon centre in Kl today to see whats wrong.
When I switch from landscape to portrait the camera just freezes up maybe the D3s doesn't like the weight of the new lens :(
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woops, were you using a monopod or anything?
 
You definitely don't want to be letting the camera take the strain with a lens that heavy, I always lift via the tripod foot, either in the hand or fixed to a monopod/tripod.
 
Pick them up by the tripod foot on the lens Neil, or by the lens strap.

Not by the body you muppet, be like somebody picking you up by the head........................:D
 
fracster said:
Pick them up by the tripod foot on the lens Neil, or by the lens strap.

Not by the body you muppet, be like somebody picking you up by the head........................:D
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I know I know I know...................I guess its just a bad habit that I need to get out of. And like I said I have the strap on the lens, my right hand on the body and left hand on the lens but there have been times when I have grabbed the body and while picking it up said to myself "don't do that you muppet you will damage the lens mount".
Anyway hopefully it will be a simple, not to expensive repair and I will have it back when I return home from work, good time to get the sensor cleaned as well:)
 
Bet you stop doing it now though Neil?.....................:)

Especially when you get the bill through.
 
Note: Just seen the page 2 responses since I started typing this ! So a pols for the repeat..

ndwgolf said:
I have either damaged the lens mount on the body of my D3s or on the lens so I am taking them both to the Nikon centre in Kl today to see whats wrong.
When I switch from landscape to portrait the camera just freezes up maybe the D3s doesn't like the weight of the new lens :(
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Have you been carrying that rig just from the strap on the body ?

If so then it is very possible. You are advised to use the strap supplied with the lens, and attach to the lugs on the lens barrel to carry the lens/body combo - or as many do carry it by the tripod foot. The mount can't take either the weight or more likely the torsion caused by a large prime. It also needs support when shooting either from a monopod/tripod or hand underneath to relieve the pressure...

Of course it could just be a dirty or loose mount on the body - lets hope so.
 
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meonshore said:
It also needs support when shooting either from a monopod/tripod or hand underneath to relieve the pressure...
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Not sure what you mean here ... I would never mount the camera to the head with a lens that big, it would always be the tripod foot that would be balance-mounted to the head.
 
meonshore said:
Note: Just seen the page 2 responses since I started typing this ! So a pols for the repeat..



Have you been carrying that rig just from the strap on the body ?

If so then it is very possible. You are advised to use the strap supplied with the lens, and attach to the lugs on the lens barrel to carry the lens/body combo - or as many do carry it by the tripod foot. The mount can't take either the weight or more likely the torsion caused by a large prime. It also needs support when shooting either from a monopod/tripod or hand underneath to relieve the pressure...

Of course it could just be a dirty or loose mount on the body - lets hope so.
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Mike I am using the strap on the lens, I don't have a strap on the body, I have also been shooting a lot out of the car window and that is where I think the problem comes from..........grabbing it from the passenger seat and hanging out the window to take a shot
 
gramps said:
Not sure what you mean here ... I would never mount the camera to the head with a lens that big, it would always be the tripod foot that would be balance-mounted to the head.
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Sorry if that wasn't clear. I meant if you are handholding it then you would have one hand on the body (grip/shutter) and one hand under the lens to support it. Likewise I wouldn't mount the camera body to a tripod/monopod with any lens that came with a tripod collar.
 
ndwgolf said:
Mike I am using the strap on the lens, I don't have a strap on the body, I have also been shooting a lot out of the car window and that is where I think the problem comes from..........grabbing it from the passenger seat and hanging out the window to take a shot
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That would probably do it, as much the swinging action as anything else.
 
I recall someone saying I am a muppet..............well I feel like a right muppet now.
I just got back from the Nikon service centre and after showing the staff there what the problem was one of the staff said that the reason I could take pictures in the portrait mode is that the shutter release for portrait was switched to off.............as soon as I switched that on bingo back taking pictures...........feel like a right pratt
Back out shooting birds tomorrow:):):)
 
Muppet! - But muppet without cash loss :D
 
Neil ........ha ha ha my grand daughter would say DOUGHNUT!!!
 
ndwgolf said:
I recall someone saying I am a muppet..............well I feel like a right muppet now.
I just got back from the Nikon service centre and after showing the staff there what the problem was one of the staff said that the reason I could take pictures in the portrait mode is that the shutter release for portrait was switched to off.............as soon as I switched that on bingo back taking pictures...........feel like a right pratt
Back out shooting birds tomorrow:):):)
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This did make me laugh - thanks for that & glad to hear there's no issues....
 
Good news Neil.

Don`t worry about the bit of movement, my 500 has always been the same.
 
Well that is a result.

Happens to me occasionally, although I usually catch it after a few seconds now. First time it took a little longer although not via a service centre.

Still a good wake up to the possibility you could have damaged the mount..... now less likely to happen (y)
 
So 300mm is great for now and I have taken some lovely shots with it, but as many guys mentioned before 300mm is not long enough for birds and I have quickly realised that myself now after using the 300 for a few months shooting birds.
So what next?...............my gut says 800mm and be done with it but my wallet says 600mm. My other concern about the 800 is that the 800mm will not be good for anything else but birds whereas the 600 could be used for sports, birds and wildlife. Also Ken Rockwell just rips the Nikon 800mm up saying it is useless...........thats what he wrote.
Anyway I am heading back to work on Tuesday so have a month to think about it some more but when I get back I will get something longer whether it be a 600mm or 800mm.
 
If it was me into superteles at 600 or 800mm I would be shooting Canon. You could get a Canon 800mm and a 1DX for the price of a Nikon 800 and still have change. Atmospheric haze at 800mm in somewhere like Asia would be a problem I'd imagine. How invested are you in Nikon and how important are birds to you is the question?
 
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If you can afford the 800mm I think you'd regret not getting it............I know I would.

Presumably thermal distortion is going to affect ANY lens shooting at distance, so shooting with a 600mm & cropping in later to fill the frame to the equivalent you'd get from the 800mm shouldn't make much difference (possibly worse?) The closer you can get to birds/your target is what will make the difference in quality, especially when cropping in later. (this is presuming you won't be shooting from close quarters & can't get all your target in frame)

Weight difference is minimal.
Kudos
Single hood on the 800mm Vs fiddly double hood on the 600mm.
800mm is the sharper lens.

You know you want to :cool:
 
OldCarlos said:
If you can afford the 800mm I think you'd regret not getting it............I know I would.

Presumably thermal distortion is going to affect ANY lens shooting at distance, so shooting with a 600mm & cropping in later to fill the frame to the equivalent you'd get from the 800mm shouldn't make much difference (possibly worse?) The closer you can get to birds/your target is what will make the difference in quality, especially when cropping in later. (this is presuming you won't be shooting from close quarters & can't get all your target in frame)

Weight difference is minimal.
Kudos
Single hood on the 800mm Vs fiddly double hood on the 600mm.
800mm is the sharper lens.

You know you want to :cool:
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Carl
I remember seeing an online field of view simulator one time I will take a look at that. I am just trying to get my head around at what distance would say a kingfisher fill the frame and would it be outside the minimal focus distance of (19 feet I think)?
Yes I am going to get it just need to wait a few months (September)
Wimberly Head, Gitzo Series 5 6 x Systematic Tripod is on the way to my mates house in the US and he will hand carry them to me in Nigeria
 
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