Newbie needs knowledge

[Eidetic]

I recently purchased a second hand Canon 400D from ebay, which came with:
18-125mm 3.5 -5.6 quantaray, an EF 90-30mm 4.5 - 5.6, some extension tube thingies and a Futin 0.45 x 58mm wide angle and macro screw on thing. It also came with a 58-62 mm ring that'll screw onto the futin's macro end (wide angle points away from camera) and then onto the quantaray. I only just screwed it on, but from the other side of my bedroom there was heavy vignetting. Is it likely that will occur when shooting landscapes?

This wide angle thing I've got is a futin 0.45 x 58mm wide angle and macro screw on thing. I've got a 58-62 mm ring that'll screw onto the futin macro end (wide angle points away from camera) and onto my 18-125mm quantaray. How can i get it to attach to the wide end, so that I can use the macro? How do I go about setting it up to use the macro end (the thread on the wide end is a much wider diametre than what I guess will be a 58mm on the quantaray)?

I have red snapper tri and monopods turning up tomorrow, so I'm sizing up what'll be next on the list. Has anyone had any experience with either of the lenses I have? If so, are they worth upgrading (I'm not planning on spending L kind of money just yet)? If nobody can recommend a fix for the futin macro lens, could anyone suggest a good value macro lens?

Do fast lenses have any drawbacks when used in bright conditons, or do they work o.k. on a low ISO? Can anyone recommend on a good value fast lens?

I'm going to take my camera to the zoo soon, I get the impression that filters are essential for eliminating glare when shooting through glass, could anyone recommend some for my lenses?

Are hoods worth the money? If so, any suggestions?

Any other kit that is worth investing in?

I know that's a lot of questions, but any and all responses will be appreciated!

 

[petersmart]

Polarising filters help to eliminate reflected glare from glass but on pictures taken through glass they may get rid of back reflections on the glass.

To get rid of general flare you need a lens hood.

 

[Eidetic]

Polarising filters help to eliminate reflected glare from glass but on pictures taken through glass they may get rid of back reflections on the glass.

To get rid of general flare you need a lens hood.

Thanks for the reply, but what do you mean by back reflections?

 

[petersmart]

Anything reflected in the glass to the back or side of you.

Light which reflects from a non-metallic surface is actually polarised to some degree or another depending on the angle of the light.

"Polarising" means that the light isn't reflected back at all angles but in one paricular plane.

A polarising filter can stop the light which is reflected in that plane and so reduce glare.

When you put a polarising filter on the end of your lens you have to rotate it to cut down the glare - so it is important that any lenses you have don't rotate when focussing as tis can rotate the polarising filter and let the glare through.

Polarising filters can also make the sky more blue because light coming from the sky is also polarised to some degree.

 

[Eidetic]

Thanks. I don't understand how the lenses are supposed to focus without rotating

 

[petersmart]

When I said without rotating I meant the front part of your lens.

Some lenses rotate the front part when they focus and are fairly useless for polarising filters.

Another point is that you should buy "circular" polarising filters.

This does not refer to the shape of the filter but to the type of polariser, and the circular polariser is essential for through the lens metering or autofocus cameras.

I must admit though that I don't use such a filter and have never really felt the need for one.

 

[Eidetic]

Thanks. The lens itself doesn't rotate on my ones. I went to buuy a hood for my quantaray from Jessops today, they only sell 58mm ones, and because it has a 62mm thread the bloke said it will cause vignetting - although he was confident it'd fit on there and be o.k. at the thin end. Has anyone tried using a 58mm on a 62mm thread? If so, how bad is the vignetting?

 

[StewartR]

... a Futin 0.45 x 58mm wide angle and macro screw on thing. It also came with a 58-62 mm ring that'll screw onto the futin's macro end (wide angle points away from camera) and then onto the quantaray. I only just screwed it on, but from the other side of my bedroom there was heavy vignetting. Is it likely that will occur when shooting landscapes?

Yes. Your Quantaray lens has a 62mm front element, and the adaptor is designed for a 58mm front element. So it effectively obscuires the edges of the lens. You might get away wirth that when ypu're using the lens towards the long (125mm) end, but not at the wide-angle end.

This wide angle thing I've got is a futin 0.45 x 58mm wide angle and macro screw on thing. I've got a 58-62 mm ring that'll screw onto the futin macro end (wide angle points away from camera) and onto my 18-125mm quantaray. How can i get it to attach to the wide end, so that I can use the macro? How do I go about setting it up to use the macro end (the thread on the wide end is a much wider diametre than what I guess will be a 58mm on the quantaray)?

You've lost me there. If your Futin thing is like one of these, then it looks like it doesn't reverse - you get the wide-angle capability and the pseudo-macro capability at the same time. Maybe.

Has anyone had any experience with either of the lenses I have? If so, are they worth upgrading (I'm not planning on spending L kind of money just yet)? If nobody can recommend a fix for the futin macro lens, could anyone suggest a good value macro lens?

Quantarays are basically rebadged older designs from other manufacturers, often Sigma. The Quantaray 18-125mm looks like it might be a rebadged Sigma 18-125mm, in which case it's probably not bad. (I use the Sigma 18-200mm as my everyday walkaround lens.) Google for reviews of the Sigma to get a feel for it.

The 90-300mm is not famed for being one of Canon's best lenses. It's a low-cost telephoto zoom which is now discontinued. There are loads of alternatives, but I'd suggest using it for a bit and looking at the results before jumping in. As a general rule, I'd suggest you don't upgrade until you know why you're upgrading and what you expect the new kit to do that the old kit doesn't do!

If nobody can recommend a fix for the futin macro lens, could anyone suggest a good value macro lens?

Hold on a sec. What do you mean by "macro lens"? A true macro lens offers 1:1 reproduction, which means your 22x14mm sensor will be filled by an object which is 22x14mm. All the major manufacturers make macro lenses, typically in the 90-105mm focal length range, but you're looking at £250+ new.

However many lenses have "macro" in the name without offering 1:1. Some people call these pseudo-macro. Basically they allow you to focus close, but not really close. You might get 0.5:1, which means your 22x14mm sensor will be filled by an object which is 44x28mm. If you're planning to upgrade your telephoto, you might look for a telephoto zoom that offers this.

Do fast lenses have any drawbacks when used in bright conditons, or do they work o.k. on a low ISO? Can anyone recommend on a good value fast lens?

No drawbacks. The "nifty fifty" 50mm f/1.8 is a great investment for beginners because it gives you f/1.8 but is really cheap.