Need some advice using my Canon 5Dmarkii

GibsonGraphics

GibsonGraphics

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Steven
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Hello all,
This is my first post so bare with me for a while whilst I try and explain my problem.
I'm not a pro photographer but I've been using a Canon 400D for 6 years and in the last month I treated myself to the 5Dmarkii. With this new camera I'm using, a borrowed Sigma 24-70 f/2.8 and my EF Canon 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM.
Now this is my problem and will probably sound really stupid, but when taking various pictures (people), I find that they are not as sharp as I would like them to be. I might get one really sharp image but then if I try the shot again, it ends up a bit soft. I have tried many different settings to try and clear them up but with no joy.
I would add a couple of pictures to show my problem but as I've just signed up I'm not really sure how to.
I didn't know whether there was a trick with the 5D like adjusting the AF-microadjustment settings.
At first guess I thought it was camera shake, but after using a tripod I still got the same soft look.
Then I tried using a lowish ISO but that didn't work, in the evenings I used the flash, and the images are all sharp again.
I've used a small aperture and a large aperture. It seams that its one in about 10 photos that is really sharp.
For an example I took a picture of a dress hanging up in a conservatory with plenty of light, using the sigma 24-70 f/2.8 at - f/4.5 1/500 ISO160 at a focal length of 45mm.
On camera looks lovely, but once loaded onto the computer it looks rather soft.
I know this is all sounds silly and there's probably a really simple solution to it. Like that I'm not letting enough light into the subjects.
Or could it be that I cant get the full Image Quality using an EF lens? but the silly thing is that I know I can get really sharp images using what I have, only problem is that there is no consistency.
Any help would be greatly received and sorry for sounding so dum, lol
 
You need to show a pic really, but it's either movement (camera shake and/or subject movement) or misfocusing.

Poor focusing can be down to the lens. You need to try and isolate it a bit more. Is it always with the Sigma, for example? How are you focusing, what AF points?
 
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Not dim just learning :)

The Sigma isn't always the best for AF so I would play around with the Canon lens to start with to ensure it isn't anything to do with that. Set the camera on a tripod and then find something to focus on to see if it is sharp. If not then switch on live view and manually focus, take the shot and see how it compares. If the latter is sharper then there is possibly a micro AF adjustment to do and there are many ways to sort that out. I have the Sigma lens BTW and generally at f4.5 it is good so hopefully a little play around and all will be sorted. Let us know how you get on with the first test.
 
Looking back through the photos it is mainly the sigma, but I use that one the most because its a f/2.8 and better for low lighting, thinking that that could be my problem.
 
I am not that happy with Sigma lenses either. I sold my Sigma 170-500mm lens and if I could afford the Nikon 70-200mm lens I would sell my Sigma equivilant as well. And that using a Nikon D300 camera.

Realspeed
 
Very hard to see what's going on there. Second shot may be a little front focused, but hard to tell anything conclusive.

You need to do some controlled AF accuracy tests. Lots of info on here about that if you search.
 
realspeed said:
I am not that happy with Sigma lenses either. I sold my Sigma 170-500mm lens and if I could afford the Nikon 70-200mm lens I would sell my Sigma equivilant as well. And that using a Nikon D300 camera.

Realspeed
Click to expand...

There are some good Sigma lenses, the 120-300mm f2.8 being one of them, but also there are some not so good, and even that can vary from lens to lens. The new fast primes (50mm and 85mm) are also really really good.
 
I agree with Hoppy -first one looks OK the second is soft. So many of these issues are down to minor focusing errors.. Try taking some test shots making absolutely sure you have an area of good detail/contrast in the AF rectangle. If the problem still persists then you may have some issues with the lens.
 
GibsonGraphics said:
Then I tried using a lowish ISO but that didn't work, in the evenings I used the flash, and the images are all sharp again.
Click to expand...

I think there's a clue or two there, either that the flash is overcoming camera or subject movement or helping the focus to lock on. As you've used a tripod with no success unless that's a coincidence I'd guess that the flash is aiding focus but then again even if the focus is a little out I'd expect a smaller aperture to improve the sharpness as the subject should be within the depth of field.

Hmmmm...

Faced with things like this I like to go back to basics so I'd select a low ISO whilst keeping the shutter speed well above the focal length of the lens and I'd select the centre focus point only and I'd also rattle off some shots using manual focus for comparison all at various apertures. Oh, and I'd shoot RAW so as not to be caught out with any in camera JPEG nasties.
 
Thanks for the replys so far, all taken onboard.
I keep on thinking that it's the AF points which is the problem as like I said before, when using a flash the pictures come out nice and sharp. I will try and upload some more pictures later to give a better example of what I'm trying to explain.
 
Out of interest, what would be a good test to perform to show everyone the results which would then in turn be easier for you to explain what I / camera is doing wrong?
 
GibsonGraphics said:
Out of interest, what would be a good test to perform to show everyone the results which would then in turn be easier for you to explain what I / camera is doing wrong?
Click to expand...

Use a single AF point and continuous servo AF (to rule out any possibility of focus/recompose causing the problem.)

Use a tripod and remote release or self timer to eliminate any camera shake.

Focus on the lettering or graphics on something like a large cornflake box in good light where the AF system should have no issues at all.

Take a few shots and if there's still a problem you may have an issue with the lens.
 
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double post.
 
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CT said:
Use a single AF point and continuous servo AF (to rule out any possibility of focus/recompose causing the problem.)

Use a tripod and remote release or self timer to eliminate any camera shake.

Focus on the lettering or graphics on something like a large cornflake box in good light where the AF system should have no issues at all.

Take a few shots and if there's still a problem you may have an issue with the lens.
Click to expand...

Yes. Not sure about servo AF as that in itself than cause minor errors (in theory) as it's constantly searching for AF lock and if you're on a tripod with a static subject that is square to the camera there can be no possibility of anything changing or the camera picking up at the wrong distance.

There are various way of doing it, but by focusing directly on the box and adding a ruler to the side like this, you can see on the rule where the sharpest focus point actually is.

IMG_3381-1.jpg
 
1/ How much in-camera sharpening did you use with the 400D?
2/ How much are you using with the 5D2?
3/ Have you changed from jpeg to RAW?
4/ How much sharpening do you apply in post?
 
Thanks for the test, I'll have a go at that over the weekend.
Jon,
With the in-camera sharpening on the 400D I didn't use, as with the 5Dmarkii I've only put it up one mark. Still using JPEG and having a go at RAW.
 
GibsonGraphics said:
Thanks for the test, I'll have a go at that over the weekend.
Jon,
With the in-camera sharpening on the 400D I didn't use, as with the 5Dmarkii I've only put it up one mark. Still using JPEG and having a go at RAW.
Click to expand...

It just may be worth playing around with various sharpening techniques before getting into the complicated stuff. `Have you un-plugged it and plugged it back in?` sometimes works ;)
 
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