need a quick heads up on using a manual flash

[suggs]

Hi all

i always shoot in full manual on my trusty D200 and i am going to delve into my first flashgun, its going to be a low cost YN model so will be full manual..

what i need is a basic run down how to go about setting up for a sport action shoot..

for instance im shooting a mountain bike jump.

Do i meter for the brightest part of the scene or use a grey card etc then workout how much flash power i need ? if so is there a way to calculate how much to set flash power too..

when i meter should i use -expcomp to allow for the extra light from flash so dont blow the background?

thanks in advance

 

[Phil V]

You have to separate the two exposures.
Your ambient and flash are two separate exposures, with whichever is the brighter acting as the main light source and the other acting as fill light.

As you're shooting manual flash the tricky part will be calculating your exposure, just remember its not based on the reflectivity of your subject but the power of the light.

The flash intensity variables are power and distance. The other exposure variables are ISO and aperture, just as long as the shutter speed stays below sync speed.

 

[suggs]

mostly im shooting downhill mountain biking and the subject can often be slightly in the shade with a lot natural backlight and lighting from above. i mostly need to just have a bit of fill lighting i guess, to pop the rider/bike..

can see a lot of trial and error coming my way lol

would a TTL flash be a much better/easier option then?

 

[Phil V]

mostly im shooting downhill mountain biking and the subject can often be slightly in the shade with a lot natural backlight and lighting from above. i mostly need to just have a bit of fill lighting i guess, to pop the rider/bike..

can see a lot of trial and error coming my way lol

would a TTL flash be a much better/easier option then?

The simple answer to that is Yes. Particularly one that does high speed sync.

Although the best value 'good lighting' is to get some triggers, off camera flash will always be an improvement, even though it appears to be adding further complication. .

The 'trial and error' is a one time thing though.
You just have to set your flash at a known distance and power, find the correct exposure for that distance, then use that information to calculate changes to make.

So if you have to up the ISO to keep the shutter speed for your ambient, you reduce the flash power by the same amount. For the distance, look up 'inverse square law'.

The ideal setup would be the Yongnuo flash (568?) and TTL triggers. Which might be more than you'd planned to spend but is remarkable value compared to what the equivalent would have cost a few years ago.

My PW Flex triggers and Canon flash cost more each than the YN triggers and a flashgun total cost.

 

[suggs]

thanks for the tips, ill take a closer look into it. im really trying to keep it simple as im also a rider so cant always have a lot of kit to drag around with me when on the bike. currently im using the onboard flash which to be fair isn't too bad but id like to go up a level from that..

 

[Phil V]

thanks for the tips, ill take a closer look into it. im really trying to keep it simple as im also a rider so cant always have a lot of kit to drag around with me when on the bike. currently im using the onboard flash which to be fair isn't too bad but id like to go up a level from that..

Therein lies the story though

Many people think just buying a bigger flash is an obvious improvement on the built in flash.

Whereas, like all things lighting, it's not what you've got it's what you do with it.

Just a TTL flashgun, on the hotshot pointing forwards will only improve the maximum distance of the light and (if its hss capable) allow faster shutter speeds. Where camera mounted speedlights win is indoors where they can be bounced for nicer light.

If you really want to 'go up a level' you have to take control of the quality and direction of the light.

Out in the woods, a gorilla pod could mount a flash in some interesting spots with very little to carry.

It's a matter of understanding, and a bit of imagination.

 

[suggs]

thanks, seems i need to have a re-think on what to do

may pick up a cheap speedlight to have a mess with and get a feel for it and also look into how best to trigger a remote flash..

one of things i like about this hobby its a constant learning curve