ND10 stop filter

R

RSMarco

Suspended / Banned
Messages
1,294
Edit My Images
Yes
Basic question to all but I am trying to understand how you approach using a 10 stop filter.

From what I have read, there are a few ways to use one but am I correct in the following?

Set ISO to around 100.
Aperture Priority set to say f16.
Meter the focal point and record the shutter value.
Set to manual, set the same aperture (f16) and set the shutter to what the table say's (1/30 = 30s)
Take shot.

Sorry for the basic question.

Much appreciated

Mark
 
Pretty much it yeah.
Some filters are often slightly over or under 10 stops though, so you will need to experiment with the shutter speed to get a true correct exposure.

You can start off in manual mode too, just set your desired aperture and then set the correct shutter speed, then add the filter and add your 10 stops.
 
That's pretty much it, yup :)

Also worth knocking the lens to manual focus before adding the filter and covering the eyepiece before firing the shutter to prevent any light leak :thumbs:
 
Yeah...

The metering I use is less specific to the focal point, I generally use evaluative.

But put lens to manual focus too or it will hunt for focus with the 10stopper on.





*edit* as already mentioned
 
Thank you.

I had a go today at a place called Llandegla just outside of Wrexham, a place I go mountain biking which has a lake. The only big issue for me today was the weather as the place gets covered in cloud. I am using a B+W 10 stop and I have noticed a slight warm/brown tint to the images. I think it's about just getting out and practicing and learn from your experience?

Thanks again all.!
 
RSMarco said:
Thank you.

I had a go today at a place called Llandegla just outside of Wrexham, a place I go mountain biking which has a lake. The only big issue for me today was the weather as the place gets covered in cloud. I am using a B+W 10 stop and I have noticed a slight warm/brown tint to the images. I think it's about just getting out and practicing and learn from your experience?

Thanks again all.!
Click to expand...

Most 10 stops have some colour cast. Easily fixed with a custom WB or adjust it in PP after if you shoot RAW
 
Why f/16? That will run you into massively long shutter speeds on an overcast day.

You could do it in the reverse order by estimating the kind of time you need for a particular subject/effect, then looking that up on the table for your set-up shutter speed for metering and focus, and adjusting f/number and ISO to match. Then fit the filter and adjust the shutter speed.

Covering the viewfinder is vital. Test your particular filter for the exact density, as they can vary batch to batch. Onother way of setting the shutter speed is to count the clicks, ie ten stops is 10 x 3 = 30 clicks on the dial.
 
aleung2 said:
I don't get this....I thought 10 stops was 10 clicks?
Click to expand...

If metering is set to 1/3 of a stop intervals, 10 stops would be 10 x 3 clicks (30 clicks).

If metering is set to 1/2 a stop intervals, 10 stops would be 10 x 2 clicks (20 clicks).

If metering is set to 1 stop intervals, 10 stops would be 10 x 1 clicks (10 clicks).
 
Last edited:
aleung2 said:
Good point, I want to know this too.
Click to expand...

I think the OP was using this as an example, if he really wanted f16 he could use ISO 400 to reduce exposure time a couple of stops also.

Ultimately if the OP is after a desired effect, i.e. extended exposure times and this was presumably the reason for purchasing the 10stopper, if ISO 100 F16 is the sweet spot why not use it?
 
AndyB1976 said:
I think the OP was using this as an example, if he really wanted f16 he could use ISO 400 to reduce exposure time a couple of stops also.

Ultimately if the OP is after a desired effect, i.e. extended exposure times and this was presumably the reason for purchasing the 10stopper, if ISO 100 F16 is the sweet spot why not use it?
Click to expand...

If you need f/16 at ISO100, then use it. But on a day like today, right here and now, that would give me an exposure time of over two minutes when you rarely want more than a few seconds at most.

Maybe 10-20 seconds for clouds and waves, perhaps a bit longer if you want to make people walking disappear, but usually for fast moving water like fountains and waterfalls, 1/2sec or so is enough. Ten stops ND is very dark, often too dark unless it's sunny, hence moderating with f/number and ISO to get the effect you want.

And f/16 will run you into diffraction problems, reducing optimum sharpness quite a bit.
 
Thanks guy's.

I was only quoting f16 as a figure. TBH I purchased the 10 stop filter as I can only get out during the day at the minute and wanted something to cope with bright daylight. It turned out to be not so bright after all but I at least had the experience.

I have to be fully honest and say I have a lot to learn yet and I have found I need grad ND to help with the sky.

Mark
 
Ozei said:
If metering is set to 1/3 of a stop intervals, 10 stops would be 10 x 3 clicks (30 clicks).

If metering is set to 1/2 a stop intervals, 10 stops would be 10 x 2 clicks (20 clicks).

If metering is set to 1 stop intervals, 10 stops would be 10 x 1 clicks (10 clicks).
Click to expand...

I see, thanks
 
Just as an add on to this, I have been trying the B+W 10 stop but the difficult thing with this type of filter (screw in) is attaching the filter and having to unscrew it if you want to adjust / recompose. My thinking is maybe a slot in filter like Hitech/Lee is a better option plus you can use a grad too..?

Mark
 
RSMarco said:
Just as an add on to this, I have been trying the B+W 10 stop but the difficult thing with this type of filter (screw in) is attaching the filter and having to unscrew it if you want to adjust / recompose. My thinking is maybe a slot in filter like Hitech/Lee is a better option plus you can use a grad too..?

Mark
Click to expand...

Yes, that can be a PITA and the slot-ins are easier in that respect, but you need a filter system to go with it - expensive, cumbersome. You also need a square filter with a sealing gasket behind, which both Lee and HiTech have, and then you can also use grads etc much more easily.

Basically, if you're into a filter system then a slot-in one makes more sense, but if you're not (and I'm not) then a screw-in is better. The way to do it is hone your regime so you know exactly what you're doing and set up everything without the filter in place, shoot test exposures, set white balance etc. Then the last thing you do is adjust the shutter speed, cover the viewfinder, fit the filter and shoot. Done. Once you've done it a few times, you should only need to fit/remove the filter once per scene.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top