ND filters

desantnik

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Vlad
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Have never tried a ND filter before or even thought about it, but reading a thread on here I decided to try to learn what function they have and now have made my mind up to get one.

The question is, how many stops do I go for?

Hoya seem to offer 2 or 3 for a 77mm size....

My objective is to be able to keep on shooting motorsport in bright UK sunshine - I have had several days where ISO 100 and 1/100 or 1/200 was giving me very washed out neigh on over exposed shots, even at small aperture sizes and in my mind this seems like the answer...

In an ideal world probably 2 and 3 would be the answer, but if I had to plump for one, what do you think?

Have I even thought this one through correctly?
 
The first thing I would say is that you could increase the f number to get same same exposure time? If of course you have done this already, then an ND might be an option. I believe Hoya do their ND's in terms of the numbers 2 4 and 8, which respectivly allow 1/2, 1/4 and 1/8th the amount of light incident to pass through, So i suggest getting a 2 and seeing how that works.
 
Yes, I have been shooting in shutter priority, so the aperture is what the camera is controlling... which can lead to some pretty nasty high F stops!

Ideally I want F4-F7... ok, I appreciate it depends on just *how* bright the sun is, but...

Glad you told me about how the Hoya model numbers work :D

1/8th is how many stops?
 
Yes, I have been shooting in shutter priority, so the aperture is what the camera is controlling... which can lead to some pretty nasty high F stops!

Ideally I want F4-F7... ok, I appreciate it depends on just *how* bright the sun is, but...

Glad you told me about how the Hoya model numbers work :D

1/8th is how many stops?

From memory an 1/8th is either 3 stops or a very relaxed weekend :D
 
10 stops? I already have one of those - its called a lens cap!! :D
 
10 stops? I already have one of those - its called a lens cap!! :D

:D
Its not far off. When you attach it and look through the viewfinder, you see... well not a lot really. I have to set it all up and compose the shot, then attach the filter, much like doing IR really. Its great for doing long exposures of water though.
 
Ok, so Hoya do a ND8 and a NDX8, obviously the NDX will be a) more expensive and b) "better" but realistically how much better?
 
Sounds like a way of charging more for not much. Hoya filters are good anyway, doubt the X will add much to be honest.
 
Hmmmm I think a better way to go is to use a polariser instead as it will do one of 2 things. At full polarisation it will knowck you down 2 stops and it will also cut down the nasty over bright sun relections and draw out the colours.

An ND filter may slow down your shutter speed but it ain't gonna change the way direct sunlight creates extreme contrast, bright reflections and kills colour. A slower shutter speed will only produce the same exposure. If you compensate a few stops you will just lose you shadows. Killing those highlights in the reflections is the best way unless you want to get them to reschedual the race to evening for softer light ;)

I would see if you can borrow one to try it out.
 
The 'x' is not a different filter version but just the proper product name as the number is a factor.

So for example with an NDx2 it is called an x2 is because the shutter speed would need to be multiplied by 2 when using it. It is often shortened to ND2 but it is the same filter.

Michael.
 
Id agree with using a CPL first, I often would use a CPL first and if I want a further slowing down of shutter speed I use a hoya ND8 filter.
 
Ok, sounds like some good advice there...

I have ordered a cheapo ND8 just to see what it does and to have a little play in the meantime.

SHall go looking for a CPL now :D

Thanks guys
 
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