My Method of HDR, worth reading? Maybe...

Carlh

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Ok, only recently, have I got over the exploding HDR images, then began toning stuff down and now Ive got to the point where I think I can pull any HDR image off as a normal photograph.

If the admin think I cant, can someone delete the thread please, otherwise it may be worth putting as a sticky for other people and save them months of trial and error - although trial and error was a good learning experience. Perhaps you might only want to read this if you feel like you're getting nowhere with HDR.

Ok. Ive picked a simple image I took a few weeks back. Please excuse the dead flies, this isn't about MY image, its about the process of getting a decent HDR image.

Ok. We'll go through what I think everyone basically goes through when they discover HDR and a trial version of Photomatix.

When you first try playing with HDR, even exploding colours look impressive, simply because you're blown away with all of that data being held in your image and its kind of overwhelming to think "you took that photo".

I think its a natural progression through that technique. Nothing wrong with it at all.

Right. All 3 images below, are processed exactly the same way, both in camera raw and photoshop itself and this is what I done to all 3 images.


What you need (or what I had, you might have to find alternatives, free alternatives do exist)
Photoshop CS6 - though Camera RAW is the most important part for this.
Photomatix if you want to do your HDRs in that, although Im hoping you'll be uninstalling the product after this little tutorial.
Photoshop to have its settings altered so that Camera RAW is used when opening up TIFFs.


For photomatix image 1, loaded 3 exposures into Photomatix, generated a Painterly Preset 3 effect, saved as a TIFF.
Opened back in Photoshop, but only 3 white balances available and limited changes (not enough data) to manipulate the image in camera RAW, but you can do further adjustments in Photoshop to stop your eyes from bleeding.

IMG_0758_59_60_tonemapped_bad.jpg



Yep. Thats pretty bad. But pretty typical of HDR to begin with. Photomatix, painterly effect (preset 3 i think).

Now I could turn the strength right down, maybe 20 or 30% and the image will look more like a photograph. Something similar to this, which is the photomatix "default" preset.

For photomatix image 2, loaded 3 exposures in photomatix, select ghost removal etc.. as necessary, generated a "default" preset effect, saved a TIFF.

IMG_0758_59_60_tonemapped_pmatix.jpg


Now that isnt looking too bad at all, except the car is actually white, and Photomatix loves to turn whites into greys and give that "not real, it looks like CG" effect.

Finally, the meat on the bones you have been painfully reading through, to get to this section.

For the Photoshop HDR, open up Photoshop, go to Merge to HDRPro, select the 3 exposures.
Make sure 32bit open has been selected.
Dont go selecting presets.
Select Remove ghosts if necessary.
When the image opens up in Photoshop - immediately (no pp), save the image as a TIFF. This file will be massiv-o. My 20mb RAW file, 3 exposures (you'd think would be 60mb) but nooooo, its 218MB. So lots of hard drive space required here.
Close the image in Photoshop, now photoshop will want you to save the "HDR", click no.
Open up the TIFF you saved from photoshop, back into photoshop.
You have all the options from Camera RAW to adjust your image.
Remember - you have all the power of a RAW file (3 of them) at your tips.
Now you've adjusted your image :) , just as you would a regular photograph in Photoshop. Do all your other PP in photoshop and you'll have a masterpiece. Well, maybe.

photoshophdr_HDR2.jpg



I hope someone has found this useful, as I did when I discovered it myself.
 
Hi, Good explanation and I have noted that you stated free software available.
But if you don't have the finance for CS 6 try Lightroom along with the Photomatix plug-in as you still get a 32 bit image back into Lightroom to play with.
Russ
 
nice tips Russ, perhaps others can share on the alternatives out there :)

Just try and stay away from presets is a must, the application doesnt know what your photos is, or how you want it to display. If you do use presets, turn down the strength considerably.
 
That image doesn't look like it needs to be HDR at all. Why not use a scene with excessive dynamic range?
 
As an experiment a while ago I just used CS6 merge to HDR on 3 images and it worked a treat, so much so that it was accepted by my stock agency and they don't normally do that. I was very impressed with cs6 just by itself.
 
I don't actually mind the cartoon-like effect in some subjects, it doesn't seem any 'worse' that other effects such as high key portraits and more.

Surely if you are starting from a decent raw file you can use fill and recovery to get a subtle increase of range in most images?
(e.g. the example above)
 
All of the work on my website is fairly "subtle" HDR.


p1190541844-4.jpg


p198846647-4.jpg


I think it works best if you can combine it with some flash to provide better contrast on the vertical surfaces, which
allows you to reduce the fill provided by the HDR process and makes it all look more natural, I hope, like the 2 images
below.


p1507416246-4.jpg


p1590973464-4.jpg


If you can combine flash and movement then it looks even less like HDR.


p1545621476-4.jpg
 
Thanks for the feedback, I am still trying trying to refine the flash/HDR process.
 
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