Move from Canon 5d to ?

Swissy

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Due to me having continuing arthritis problems with my thumb (don't laugh) i'm looking to sell my excellent condition Canon 5d classic with a few lenses, and buy something with as goodish image quality but a hell of a lot lighter, as It's becoming harder to use this heavy full frame camera, so I'm looking to move to something from maybe Fuji, Panasonic, Olympus or Sony etc

The camera has recently been serviced, cleaned, i have the receipt and it really is in excellent condition, i will be putting it in the classifieds soon, along with some lenses.

Any recommendations as to what i could move to?
 
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Budget?

If you're a body and compact prime kind of guy and want the maximum image quality in a lighter and small form body I'd say go for a Sony A7 series camera but if you want to potentially use longer reach primes and zooms but still want to keep the bulk and weight down to a minimum I'd say go for MFT and if going for MFT the next question would be do you want RF style or mini SLR style?
 
Budget depends on what i sell the 5d and lenses for, plus some cash, about a grand, so i'd say A7's out of reach.

Subject, Street, portraits, landscape, macro +
 
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If you could live with a camera and just a 28, 35 or 50mm then maybe an A7 could be in reach? Maybe used...? or you could use old manual lenses :D
 
I've got loads of old manual lenses :D

A quick look online shows the A7 sells for around £700 which doesn't leave me much to add any lenses, but i will consider it as an option, thank you Alan
 
What about a fuji XE2 or an XT10.
Both cracking cameras with a good line up of glass to go with them.
 
If it helps at all...

I have a GX7 and I think it's a good camera and there are just a few things I'd change...

- I'd make auto iso work in all modes.
- I'd allow exposure compensation in manual mode with auto iso.
- I'd allow constant dof and scene preview in all modes.
- I'd fit a different evf.

Other than that little list it's a good camera and although my first few points may not matter too much I'd say that the last point about the evf might. Many people seem perfectly happy with the sequential evf but some report a rainbow effect and although I'm not sure that's how I'd describe what I see (what I see is that nothing looks sharp to me...) I'm concerned enough about the evf to recommend that anyone interested in this camera should try before they buy just in case they don't like the evf.
 
XE2 XT10 ok

I would really like a decent evf Alan so thanks for the info.
 
If you are prepared to buy secondhand an A7 should be within budget. Keep an eye out for bargains. Through this forum I've bought an A7 with extra accessories for £450 and the Sony 35mm lens for £300 and highly recommend them both. With adapters you can mount virtually any lens on it and make use of very cheap older lenses.
 
XE2 XT10 ok

I would really like a decent evf Alan so thanks for the info.

Just need to repeat that many people on line seem to be saying that the GX7's evf is a good one. I think that people reporting issues are almost certainly in a minority and as my issue seems to be a slightly different issue to the one more commonly reported I may be in a minority of one :( Or maybe I'm seeing the same thing and perceiving it differently. Anyway, I think the issues are related to the evf displaying the colours in sequence, it's called a field sequential display... or something similar...

I'm just advising that maybe trying one first to make sure your happy is a better way forward than doing what I did, buy one unseen on line. I certainly haven't had an issue with any other non sequential evf.
 
Budget depends on what i sell the 5d and lenses for, plus some cash, about a grand, so i'd say A7's out of reach.

Subject, Street, portraits, landscape, macro +

Ive been through pretty much all the smaller systems and manufacturers, Im currently with Fuji and have had quite a few in the past. I like the output and what the system has to offer. They cover from low budgets all the way to top end stuff.

Perhaps go on flickr and see the owners threads here once youve narrowed your choices down.
 
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Thanks to everyone for the advice, i have some thinking to do, cheers.
 
In your position I'd go with an Olympus E-M1 or E-M5ii and either the 12-40 zoom or a couple of Oly primes. I've tried many of the CSC systems and the Olympus E-M1 for me just seems the most "complete" camera with the best range of lenses available. The results from the Fujis are excellent, but I've found they don't lock focus as quickly as the Oly for long-lens or macro work which I found frustrating, and the lens range is more limited and more expensive.
 
In your position I'd go with an Olympus E-M1 or E-M5ii and either the 12-40 zoom or a couple of Oly primes. I've tried many of the CSC systems and the Olympus E-M1 for me just seems the most "complete" camera with the best range of lenses available. The results from the Fujis are excellent, but I've found they don't lock focus as quickly as the Oly for long-lens or macro work which I found frustrating, and the lens range is more limited and more expensive.

Been tempted by an E-M1 myself in the past but for me being able to control shallow DOF is important and I just couldnt get that look from the smaller sensor. I did enjoy my M43 cams otherwise.

Whats missing from the Fuji line up, besides a 1:1 AF macro? Why would you want AF for macro?

More glass means higher cost, lets look at some popular FLs.

12mm f2 (F3 APSC DOF) - £539 vs Fuji 16mm f1.4 - £675 (not really a fair comparison, Fuji is way faster)
PL 25 1.4 (F2.1 APSC DOF) - £360 vs Fuji 35mm 1.4 - £360
PL 42.5 1.2 (F1.8 APSC DOF) - £1000 vs Fuji 56 1.2 - £669
12-40 2.8 (F4.2 APSC DOF) - £699 vs Fuji 16-55 2.8 - £699
40-150 2.8 (F4.2 APSC DOF) - £1000 vs Fuji 50-140 2.8 - £1000

It would be a good idea for the OP to think FLs and possible future lens purchases then buy into a system.
 
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In your position I'd go with an Olympus E-M1 or E-M5ii and either the 12-40 zoom or a couple of Oly primes. I've tried many of the CSC systems and the Olympus E-M1 for me just seems the most "complete" camera with the best range of lenses available. The results from the Fujis are excellent, but I've found they don't lock focus as quickly as the Oly for long-lens or macro work which I found frustrating, and the lens range is more limited and more expensive.

I don't know Fuji, but I totally back what Simon says here, an Olympus E-M1 with 12-40 pro to start, the 45mm 1.8 is very affordable too - the CSCs are really good unless you need razor thin DoF, if not them go with these.

AF can be handy in macro, dragonfly in flight, butterfly before it flits away, a fast moving beetle, plus its just handy, it really depends on what you're trying to capture and how much time you have - sure you could (and I'm sure some would say should) set up on the tripod and wait, and wait and so on or worse yet freeze and kill insects just for the shot, but that was never my style even on the MPe-65.
 
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Sony a6000 is a bargain now at around £450 with a kit lens. Add an EOS adaptor (electronic so autofocus and aperture can be set etc) and some of the canon glass will work with it perfectly! I've got that set up (as well as other set ups) and it certainly helps take the strain away from the 7D which is similar in size and weight. It's packed full of features and offers excellent IQ too!

An older EM5 is also superb and great value as is the XPro1 and XE1/2. (Again, I have these set ups but the Sony is best overall for Compatibility and handling with canon glass)
 
The problem with going to anything that keeps a DSLR lens system is that sure the body is a little lighter but the lenses can easily be off balance as they 're not designed that way and more importantly you;re not gaining anything at all from the lens weight wise as the OP needs.
 
Sony a6000 is a bargain now at around £450 with a kit lens. Add an EOS adaptor (electronic so autofocus and aperture can be set etc) and some of the canon glass will work with it perfectly! I've got that set up (as well as other set ups) and it certainly helps take the strain away from the 7D which is similar in size and weight. It's packed full of features and offers excellent IQ too!

An older EM5 is also superb and great value as is the XPro1 and XE1/2. (Again, I have these set ups but the Sony is best overall for Compatibility and handling with canon glass)

Depends on what you are shooting if its perfect or not, its very slow, nowhere near native.
 
Here, I put a few together - sadly I couldn't bolt on a Canon 24-70 onto the a6000 to fully compare jut tee numbers are there you'd just need to dig out calc.

On there I put (link):

Canon 5D + 24-70 f4
Olympus E-M1 + 12-40 2.8 Pro (after crop sort of works like an f4 @ 24-80mm)
a6000 + 16-35 f4
Olympus E-M10 II + 14-42 f3.5 -5.6

Worth noting that bar for the 40-150 2.8 the 12-40 2.8 is one of the heaviest M43 lens and as that plus the body weigh less than just the Canon 24-70 f4, which is far from the heavy in DSLR terms you can see where ignoring lens weight really hurts.
 
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The problem with going to anything that keeps a DSLR lens system is that sure the body is a little lighter but the lenses can easily be off balance as they 're not designed that way and more importantly you;re not gaining anything at all from the lens weight wise as the OP needs.
When using a heavier lens your left hand should be under the lens and if so this may solve any balance issues. Certainly I've never had a single balance issue when using SLR lenses via an adapter on mft.
 
Here, I put a few together - sadly I couldn't bolt on a Canon 24-70 onto the a6000 to fully compare jut tee numbers are there you'd just need to dig out calc.

On there I put (link):

Canon 5D + 24-70 f4
Olympus E-M1 + 12-40 2.8 Pro (after crop sort of works like an f4 @ 24-80mm)
a6000 + 16-35 f4
Olympus E-M10 II + 14-42 f3.5 -5.6

Worth noting that bar for the 40-150 2.8 the 12-40 2.8 is one of the heaviest M43 lens and as that plus the body weigh less than just the Canon 24-70 f4, which is far from the heavy in DSLR terms you can see where ignoring lens weight really hurts.
Please note there's no "sort of works like an f4." The crop factor works for focal length and dof but exposure remains the same and IMO anyone worrying about dof and crop factors needs to... stop :D
 
I agree but the op said "a hell of a lot lighter", DSLR lenses are heavy, personally I moved back to DSLR from m43 simply for DoF, even the general IQ was easily good enough
 
You're right about exposure, but often it's the look that's meant, not how it's effecting possible shutter speed and so forth, anyway that's a discussion for another thread
 
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Please note there's no "sort of works like an f4." The crop factor works for focal length and dof but exposure remains the same and IMO anyone worrying about dof and crop factors needs to... stop :D

Said by someone who doesnt worry about crop factors or dof. :D
 
Never really considered Olympus, my last was a Olympus trip 35 way back lol definitely looks interesting though.

Plus the A6000 has previously been on my radar, but i don't think using it with my heavy Canon full frame lenses is an option tbh.

So many choices.

EDIT actually i lied, i remember i had an Olympus e-pm1
 
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Never really considered Olympus, my last was a Olympus trip 35 way back lol definitely looks interesting though.

Plus the A6000 has previously been on my radar, but i don't think using it with my heavy Canon full frame lenses is an option tbh.

So many choices.

The A6000 is a great camera, but some ways Sony do things frustrate me. A simple thing like selecting the AF point is a pain, you have to activate the grid then press again to move, for some thats okay, I hate that because I focus by moving the point not focus recompose. Also make sure youre covered in terms of lens requirements. Theres not a lot of APSC choice unless you also look at the much more expensive FE lenses and one of them suit your requirements, but there may be enough depending on user. Longest zoom is 210mm.

http://www.camerapricebuster.co.uk/Sony/Sony-E-Mount-Lenses
 
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Cheers Twist, so i've narrowed it down to either Fuji, Sony, Olympus or Panasonic lol
 
Ok lets put a spanner in the works as an alternative.

Have you ever thought of using a camcorder??? No? well also give it some thought.
For being light excellent stills and movie yes
Distance well take a look at this hand held of mine in full (as taken at the time unedited) on the Nile

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zocBr0JOGUk

Try doing that zoom with a DSLR camera



Can I extract a frame from it? yes
Can I do 3D video?yes with adapter

Macro? yes

Can I have stills on the built in memory and video on the SD card? yes or any combo
built in stabliser ?yes
mike ?yes
so what is it?

Mine is a panasonic HC-X900M but there are newer models nowadays
recently added a pistol grip handle (£9) to steady it even more




Size
Fits into the palm of my hand
weight approx 1lb
I use mine in places where a huge camera attracts unwanted attention. Goes into a pocket easily

The panasonic camcorder range ( i have nothing to do with Panasonic if your wondering)

http://www.panasonic.com/uk/consumer/cameras-camcorders/camcorders.html

Ok bet that has made you think a bit

What is against it?
Only thing with mine is it does not shoot in RAW only jpeg
Apart from that i can't find fault with it
 
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Ok lets put a spanner in the works as an alternative.

Have you ever thought of using a camcorder??? No? well also give it some thought.
For being light excellent stills and movie yes
Distance well take a look at this hand held of mine in full

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zocBr0JOGUk


Can I extract a frame from it? yes
Can I do 3D video?yes with adapter

Can I have stills on the built in memory and video on the SD card? yes or any combo
built in stabliser ?yes
mike ?yes
so what is it?

Mine is a panasonic HC-X900M but there are better later models nowadays

Size
Fits into the palm of my hand
weight approx 1lb
I use mine in places where a huge camera attracts unwanted attention. Goes into a pocket easily

The panasonic camcorder range ( i have nothing to do with Panasonic if your wondering)

http://www.panasonic.com/uk/consumer/cameras-camcorders/camcorders.html

Ok bet that has made you think a bit

Cant change lenses, image size limited, what about shutter speeds, what about filter systems, what about controlling dof, what about low light ISO etc etc.
 
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Been tempted by an E-M1 myself in the past but for me being able to control shallow DOF is important and I just couldnt get that look from the smaller sensor. I did enjoy my M43 cams otherwise.

Whats missing from the Fuji line up, besides a 1:1 AF macro? Why would you want AF for macro?

More glass means higher cost, lets look at some popular FLs.

12mm f2 (F3 APSC DOF) - £539 vs Fuji 16mm f1.4 - £675 (not really a fair comparison, Fuji is way faster)
PL 25 1.4 (F2.1 APSC DOF) - £360 vs Fuji 35mm 1.4 - £360
PL 42.5 1.2 (F1.8 APSC DOF) - £1000 vs Fuji 56 1.2 - £669
12-40 2.8 (F4.2 APSC DOF) - £699 vs Fuji 16-55 2.8 - £699
40-150 2.8 (F4.2 APSC DOF) - £1000 vs Fuji 50-140 2.8 - £1000

It would be a good idea for the OP to think FLs and possible future lens purchases then buy into a system.

OK fair point. One of my most used lenses is the Olympus 45/1.8 at around £179 new. The nearest Fuji equivalent is the 60/2.4 at over £400 which is slower (although a macro lens), or the other alternatives are the 56/1.2 at £670 or the 90/2 at £600. I guess it all comes down to what lenses the OP wants/needs.

For shallow DOF, the best bet in the Oly line-up would probably be the 75/1.8, but then you're looking at around £600 again :)
 
OK fair point. One of my most used lenses is the Olympus 45/1.8 at around £179 new. The nearest Fuji equivalent is the 60/2.4 at over £400 which is slower (although a macro lens), or the other alternatives are the 56/1.2 at £670 or the 90/2 at £600. I guess it all comes down to what lenses the OP wants/needs.

For shallow DOF, the best bet in the Oly line-up would probably be the 75/1.8, but then you're looking at around £600 again :)

You can easily pick one up for £200 mint used.

The 45 is a bargain lens but as pointed out the rest of the range doesnt compare so well. Yeah, but again the 56 1.2 is equiv to the PL 42.5, except youll get shallower DOF with the Fuji and its loads cheaper. The 75 1.8 is equiv to the Fuji 90, but again, the 90 f2 will have shallower DOF, same price.
 
You can easily pick one up for £200 mint used.

The 45 is a bargain lens but as pointed out the rest of the range doesnt compare so well. Yeah, but again the 56 1.2 is equiv to the PL 42.5, except youll get shallower DOF with the Fuji and its loads cheaper. The 75 1.8 is equiv to the Fuji 90, but again, the 90 f2 will have shallower DOF, same price.
Just for fun: http://camerasize.com/compact/#328.298,482.346,650.472,gd,t
 
Oh, forgot to mention the grip on the EM1 is excellent too, I think your next step may be to find your way to a well stocked shop (if such a thing exists anymore) and try them in your hand

PS the 75mm 1.8 is great too, as was the 60mm macro

PPS the em1 is actually good at continuous auto focus (with the "new" read quite old now firmware), at this rate I'll take myself back into getting one!
 
Oh, forgot to mention the grip on the EM1 is excellent too, I think your next step may be to find your way to a well stocked shop (if such a thing exists anymore) and try them in your hand

PS the 75mm 1.8 is great too, as was the 60mm macro

PPS the em1 is actually good at continuous auto focus (with the "new" read quite old now firmware), at this rate I'll take myself back into getting one!

BUY IT NOW!! :sneaky:
 
Haha, so tempting but I've got used the the weight of my DSLR dinosaur now :)
 
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Cant change lenses, image size limited, what about shutter speeds, what about filter systems, what about controlling dof, what about low light ISO etc etc.

On mine
No need to change lenses with the range this has (see video)
picture size 14.7m --8.3m----5.8m
high speed burst still pictures at 50 fps
filter size = I have a Hoya UV (c) 49mm filter for mine
DOF- sorry no information given
low light = flash or af assist or red eye reduction and 11 scene modes from bright sunlight to night time

Iris from f .7 (0db) to(18db)
shutter speed from 1/3 sec to 1/1000 sec

zoom up to digital 700 times (try lugging a 700mm DSLR lens around)

Hope that answers some of your questions
 
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