Mounting Photos

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DaydreamJay

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Jason
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Is there an easy way to mount photos other than investing in a dry mounting press?

I print out my photos at 17" x 13" and I need to affix them to some board to keep them flat in the frames. I have tried sticky board but after a week or so bubbles appear, I have also tried PVA glue but the same thing happens.

I know that the correct way would be dry mounting but I can't really afford a press. Can the dry mount material be activated in another way such as an iron? Or is there a simpler way to mount my photos that doesn't result in bubbles?

Thanks in advance.
 
I use a mount cutter to cut a bevel edged aperture out of mounting board.
Looks far better IMO than an image stuck onto the board.

Our camera club did a print exchange with another club and some of their prints were flush mounted and looked great. I'd love to know how it was done.

Mike
 
Hi Mike - yes I cut mounts too with my mount cutter but the image still needs to be stuck to a board otherwise it will not be flat in the frame.
 
Thin double sided tape can work fine if you're careful and your print is on thick paper.
 
You'd suggest covering the enitre back of a large photo with double sided tape?? That sounds quite labour intensive considering I have a lot to do :-)
 
Any particular brand grum? And is it expensive? Also - have you tried it with largish photos?
 
There's some 3M stuff - not cheap, maybe 7-8 quid a can. Think The Range might do an 'own brand' version that's a bit cheaper.

I have used it successfully on a 30x20" print
 
Danny, I have tried self ahesive mount board and found that on larger prints it has a tendency to bubble after a week or two.

This may be down to the brand I am using of course.
 
DaydreamJay said:
Hi Mike - yes I cut mounts too with my mount cutter but the image still needs to be stuck to a board otherwise it will not be flat in the frame.
Click to expand...

Not sure if we are getting our lines crossed here.
I cut out the hole from the middle of the board then use tape to stick the print to the back of the mount to hold it in place.

If its for framing I don't need to stick the print to anything other than the mount as the the print and mount are sandwiched between the glass and the backboard of the frame.

If its for Camera Club competitions I do as above but add a thick card to the back of the mount to give it a bit of body.

The only time I used double sided tape was before I got the bevel cutter and stuck my prints directly onto the board but more often than not I couldn't position them neither flat nor square and even the thinnest of tape showed through.

Mike
 
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Hi Mike, yes I do understand what you mean.

Unfortunately when using a mount there is a space between the photo and the glass of the frame that is the thickness of the mount - it is in this space that the photo can become uneven i.e. not flat. There is in effect nothing to stop the photo warping and touching parts of the glass. Of course with nice thick papers it is less prone to this, but on roll paper like I have in my printer it's an absolute nightmare.
 
I haven't had any problems with my prints warping etc. The pressure between the glass and backboard is usually enough to hold the print flat and in place.
Sorry, I didn't realise that roll paper was thinner.
If its the thickness of the paper thats at fault why not try getting the image printed elsewhere on thicker paper.
I had an image of similar size to yours and took it to Jessops to be printed as I only have an A4 printer. I had to explain that I didn't want the image to fill the sheet and to keep the dimensions as was. I got the print back and all I had to do was to trim it. It only cost a fiver - hence the reason that I haven't went down the A3 printer road.

I really hope you get to the bottom of your problem as I realise how frustrating this must be for you.

Mike
 
Mike, there is no pressure between the glass and the backboard as there is a recess caused be the mount aperture - if you imagine your photo in the mount and in the frame then the photo isn't actually touching the glass. The mount is but not the photo.

If I were to put the photo directly into the frame with no mount then it would be flattened by the glass and backboard, but with a mount this does not apply unfortuantely.
 
Of course the photo isn't touching the glass.
If you cut the aperture slightly smaller than the picture this is enough to hold it in place.
The picture is clamped between the glass, mount and backboard.
I've mounted and framed dozens of images and never had one slip or bubble yet.
 
I have no problem holding it place Mike, but as there is nothing touching the front of the photograph and as there is nothing stuck to the back of it then the problem arises where the photo can be warped in the space between the glass and the board, which is about 3mm. Like I said - if the photo is on fairly stiff paper then this is unlikely to happen but on the roll papers which are thinner (and already warped by virtue of them being on a roll,) then it is a major problem. This is one of the reasons people invest in expensive dry mount presses. I was just hoping for a cheaper solution - maybe the spray adhesive as suggested above would be useful.
 
daydreamjay

oh i can sympathise with you mate
i have been through what you have.......people who dont print big dont understand......tape will not keep an image flat!!

your not going to like what im going to tell you though

the only sure way to do it is with a dry mount press and dry mount paper, you also need release paper too.
i was at my whits end trying to keep my big prints flat............i talked to a local framer who was very helpfull.......offered me trade price for dry mounting.....cos we have a buisness selling my work.. but he offered me a huge press.......£2000s worth for £300....which i bought

now he also said it was ok to use photomount and a press instead of dry mount film......the heat and pressure is whats important.......dont use spray mount its not good enough.....!!

so either contact framers in your area and see what they can do for you........or try to find a second hand one.......they are insanely heavy!!

seal masterpiece 500t is what i have
you can do the press in stages....the whole pic doesnt need to be under the plates in one go


hope that helps u mate.........it cured my prob for ever !!

Gary
 
I regularly print/mount 18x12 inch prints and use the "hinge" method with acid free tape, rarely had any issues to be honest, I have the mount aperture cut 1/4" smaller than the print which someone suggested helps to give a firmer contact between mount/frame/print - not sure this is actually the case but so far so good.

I have had the problems you mention though with 30x20 inch prints, which now I get done professionally

Simon
 
Gary - that's great thanks mate, cheered me up no end lol. Looks like I'll be keeping my eye out on ebay for a press. Daft question - have you ever tried ironing this stuff instead?

Simon - what do you mean by "hinge" method?
 
Use 25mm double sided tape on all edges of a good weight grey board. Remove top edge and 50mm down the sides and attach print. Now remove the tape sides and smooth on the print, when youre 50mm from the bottom remove the bottom tape and smooth on.

Job done. If you cant master the technique its pay your money on a press
 
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dcash29 said:
Use 25mm double sided tape on all edges of a good weight grey board. Remove top edge and 50mm down the sides and attach print. Now remove the tape sides and smooth on the print, when youre 50mm from the bottom remove the bottom tape and smooth on.

Job done. If you cant master the technique its pay your money on a press
Click to expand...

Well it doesn't sound like a very difficult technique to master so I'll give it a go - I have some very sticky double sided tapestry tape. I don't know if it will be better than using sticky board (which failed miserably,) but I might as well give it a go before forking out on a press.
 
glad to be of help...sharing knowledge with people who are going through what i have been through. i used to use some thick matt paper for panoramics....12x36 inch and photomount adhesive was good enough due to paper weight.......but when using photo satin paper.........massive probs with same photomount...........hence my investment

i was lucky to find a pro framer who share his knowledge with me, and sold me a press :-)

you could try an iron if u had some silicon paper to put over print, it could work with small stuff.........worth ago.......get a can of photomount and see......apply as it says on the can

Gary
 
release paper goes ontop of your picture, so u have your piece of mount board (i use the to bond picture to) then a piece of dry mount paper, what u cut slightly bigger than pic, then your picture, and then the release paper, this stops the excess dry mount sticking to the hotplate, and also stops the heat affecting the picture.

i think is silicon coated on one side, it certainly works.
i see no reason why u cannot use a iron with the release paper and photomount spray its gotta be worth ago.
i think my press is set to 200 degrees

with the press and dry mount paper u can bond canvas to mdf, i have seen a few solid wraps like that and they look good

Gary
 
I don't see anything in those links that would stop the effect that I am talking about. Unless the print is actually adhered to the backboard there is absolutely nothing stopping it from becoming uneven in the mount aperture.
 
DaydreamJay said:
I don't see anything in those links that would stop the effect that I am talking about. Unless the print is actually adhered to the backboard there is absolutely nothing stopping it from becoming uneven in the mount aperture.
Click to expand...


I'm certainly not an expert at this but the rippling/bubbling (flatness) problems are usually caused by expansion/contraction of the mounting materials due to atmospheric conditions (humidity etc).

As they are all different materials they will expand/contract at slightly different rates. In theory then, if the print and backing board are fully fixed together (adhesive etc) then any humidity may well cause "flatness" problems. The hinge method supposedly allows the natural contraction/expansion of the materials and therefore minimises the chance of the effects you mention.

As I say I'm not an expert, if you have a browse around the web you'll find quite a few websites around suggesting the same as above

Simon
 
the methods of using tape is to not damage something precious

its not the best way!

why do framers use dry mount press's? why where they made??
they are what is needed to fix a picture flat for ever!! and i mean ever, they will also flatten out creased and crumpled paper very nicely

paper will go wavey over time if left hanging.......u will have it brought back if u sell it

most people will only ever mount a4 because they cannot afford bigger printers.......so they will not see the problem.......try tape a 30x20 inch poster in a frame !!

Gary
 
hdseven said:
the methods of using tape is to not damage something precious

its not the best way!

why do framers use dry mount press's? why where they made??
they are what is needed to fix a picture flat for ever!! and i mean ever, they will also flatten out creased and crumpled paper very nicely

paper will go wavey over time if left hanging.......u will have it brought back if u sell it

most people will only ever mount a4 because they cannot afford bigger printers.......so they will not see the problem.......try tape a 30x20 inch poster in a frame !!

Gary
Click to expand...


Calm down a bit mate, just a suggestion :shrug: - just got back from watching the England game by any chance ;):lol: as I clearly said I'm no expert but personally haven't had any issues with hinging 18x12 prints....if you read my earlier post you'd see I agree with you on the 30x20s - I have those professionally mounted
 
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I've got a few 20x30 prints which have been mounted using the T/hinging method there have been no creases. Only taping the image on one edge allows for expansion/contraction without creating creases.

I am sure the dry press does as good a job, but don't think I'd have the space/cash to have one at home.
 
I cannot understand how a large photo can remain flat in a frame by willpower alone. Why does it feel the need to remain touching the backing board when it is not actually adhered to it?
 
DaydreamJay said:
I cannot understand how a large photo can remain flat in a frame by willpower alone. Why does it feel the need to remain touching the backing board when it is not actually adhered to it?
Click to expand...

Hi again,

Have you tried searching the www, lots of information around if you aren't happy with the feedback you've received on here :thumbs:

Simon
 
Nothing wrong with the info on here Simon :D

I just need to google "witchcraft" now to find out how to get photopaper to remain magically flat in a frame when not adhered to anything :lol:
 
does anyone use gum tape with prints/mounts?
that kind of brown tape that you wet..?
 
I had the same problem a few years ago with customers complaining their 20"x 16" portraits were rippling.

I tried a few different solutions and finally settled with 'Daler Rowney "XTRA TAK" mount board', I have some 6+ year old sample prints which are still perfectly flat, even though they have often been stored in the boot of my car (even during winter).

Alan.
 
visagephoto said:
I had the same problem a few years ago with customers complaining their 20"x 16" portraits were rippling.

I tried a few different solutions and finally settled with 'Daler Rowney "XTRA TAK" mount board', I have some 6+ year old sample prints which are still perfectly flat, even though they have often been stored in the boot of my car (even during winter).

Alan.
Click to expand...

if prints are fixed to a backing board, what happens if the owner wants to change the frame (e.g. a bigger frame)?
 
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