Mount Cutting and mounting?

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n30_mkii

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I have a large metal rules which I belive can be used with a mount cutter. Is it easy to cut a rectangular aperture into mount board? How do you get the angles right? I was also informed that a proper mount should always leave the bottom side larger than the others so that it is obvious that it is the bottom of the image.

Im generally after some advice on mounting, what should I be using to stick the images to the back boards? Is a 45 degree cut the best option for mounting are there other options? For different effects?

I really don't know much, I have always brought pre-done mounts off ebay, but would like to do my own.

Any help on the whole process would be appreciated!
 
Forget the rule and knife.

Buy a Logan 301-s you can have a 16x12 mount measured and cut perfectly in under 5 minutes

Dave
 
I think that is a little out of my price range at the moment to be honest.
 
Thanks, will continue reading through the guides on google. With regards to the actual cutter I have the following metal ruler

http://www.fredaldous.co.uk/product_191360002.htm

which I can get the following cutter for

http://www.fredaldous.co.uk/product_191360001.htm

Will that be ok? I won't be doing a huge amount perhaps 3-4 every month for my new club.

Or should I look at something a little more expensive? Are the windows easy to cut with just a ruler and bevel cutter? Will the corners meetup ok, or will they look a bit messy?
 
I'm surprised more folk on here dont do thier own mounting. Very surprised at the low number of responses.

I've always thought mounting was a black art until my 22 yo step son got a job at a framers. Trouble is you can only ask him to do so many "dinner time" jobs. So, I too am looking at the possibility of doing my own.
 
I've used a Longridge Duo for a couple of year now. Pretty easy to use once you get used to it.

However - I can buy pre-cut mounts at standard sizes cheaper than I can buy the raw materials now. So the cutter only comes out for non-standard and multiple aperture stuff.
 
I would be doing some random mount sizes for my local club. It would be nice to get something that could do V-cuts in the future, but then I think I should perhaps just get the cheap option for now.
 
I'm hopeless with a ruler and cutter, hence I got a proper mat cutter, now it's a piece of cake.
 
-Oy- said:
I've used a Longridge Duo for a couple of year now. Pretty easy to use once you get used to it.

However - I can buy pre-cut mounts at standard sizes cheaper than I can buy the raw materials now. So the cutter only comes out for non-standard and multiple aperture stuff.
Click to expand...

Can i ask where you buy these from please?
 
Warrington camera club have a tutorial on line showing ways of measuring, cutting and mounting photographs. Look under their web site.
 
dicko said:
Warrington camera club have a tutorial on line showing ways of measuring, cutting and mounting photographs. Look under their web site.
Click to expand...

Can't seem to get to their website, do you have a link to the tutorial?
 
Lost it myself go for this one. type in Google, Print Mounting by Brian Sankey.
He is a member of the Nantwich club.

nantwichcameraclub.org.uk/Workshops. It comes up in tutorials if first doesnt work.
 
I actually went on a course recently where we spent about half a day learning how to cut mounts. I found it really difficult, even with the college's proper mount cutting machine. My two main issues were getting the blade to go through cleanly for the whole length of the cut, and also not overshooting the corners. The angle isn't too hard to get right if your ruler is angled.

You definitely need a thicker section at the bottom - it's to make it look even. If the sides are all even, it appears as though the bottom section is thinner than the others. I can't remember the exact ratio but will check my notes.

It's definitely something I want to get better at though - most of the mounts available are made of awful acidic stuff which will eventually damage your photos (I'm an archivist and I've seen what it can do!). It's definitely worth going acid free if you want your print to last.
 
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