Motorsport - Manual focus only

PPalmer

PPalmer

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I will be heading to the BTCC (at Brands Hatch) this coming weekend. I have a D5000 and I have been lent a Nikon AF 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 G.

The problem is this is manual focus only. Is it worth taking with me? My other lens is 18-55mm kit lens.

Opinons please.
 
I'd be more worried about getting the shutter speeds you need with an f/4-5.6 lens.

Manual focus should be fine - in the dim and distant I used to do some football with a manual focus lens and basically you focus for where your object is going to be and then snap when it hits that spot. You'll take fewer pictures but it should be fine.

I await motorsport togs disagreeing with me though!
 
I figured that I would shoot a burst and probaly bin some either side of the hopefully good one.
 
Yes, you'll get usable shutter speeds with f/4 and slower lenses. Just prefocus on the track and shoot when car passes where you've focussed. Will require more trial and error than a AF equipped lens, but perfectly do-able.
 
andrewc said:
Yes, you'll get usable shutter speeds with f/4 and slower lenses. Just prefocus on the track and shoot when car passes where you've focussed. Will require more trial and error than a AF equipped lens, but perfectly do-able.
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Thats the answer that I hoped I would get. I do plan on getting an AF-S 70-300mm VR lens as I hope to do quite a few motorsport events but having just paid for the camera funds are a little low.
 
I think people coped just fine before AF lenses came out ;)
 
Shutter speeds with a f4 lens?? Errm only if your objective is gaining high shutter speeds... generally most motorsport is about trying to keep shutter speeds down...

For example, I was using ISO100 (equivalent), f22 with a ND8 the other day... really slow the hell down...

Anyway, ignoring that, manual focus, yes, you can use it - sometimes I do. Have a go but don't open the aperture up too much or you will struggle with narrow DOF, keep it up f10-f16 and you'll improve your chances.
 
Can the D5000 be set to only release the shutter when the subject's in focus? If so, you could try focus trapping - focus on a pre set distance, ideally where the cars will be as you're panning then hold the shutter release button down and follow the car through the shot. In theory, the shutter will only be released if/when the subject (car) is in focus.
 
Nod said:
Can the D5000 be set to only release the shutter when the subject's in focus? If so, you could try focus trapping - focus on a pre set distance, ideally where the cars will be as you're panning then hold the shutter release button down and follow the car through the shot. In theory, the shutter will only be released if/when the subject (car) is in focus.
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Not sure about that will look into it. Would be a big help if it can.
 
PPalmer said:
I will be heading to the BTCC (at Brands Hatch) this coming weekend. I have a D5000 and I have been lent a Nikon AF 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 G.

The problem is this is manual focus only. Is it worth taking with me? My other lens is 18-55mm kit lens.

Opinons please.
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Is the Auto Focus broken on the lens?
 
PaulF said:
Is the Auto Focus broken on the lens?
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Probably not but you might have missed the G designation and the lack of the -S after the AF. The D5000 needs AF-S (or equivalent) to AF and the lens the OP has been lent is the older AF G type.

BTW, PPalmer, the 70-300 AF-S VR is great for motorsport if you can get close enough for 300mm to be long enough. The VR copes very well with panning and even when stopped down to f/8 or even f/11, you should get decent results at panning shutter speeds.
 
Not a problem and I often shoot like this when panning. Prefocus on a point you are going to shoot at, then pan and shoot.
 
Nod said:
Probably not but you might have missed the G designation and the lack of the -S after the AF. The D5000 needs AF-S (or equivalent) to AF and the lens the OP has been lent is the older AF G type.
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Thanks for the clarification, I didn't spot that.
 
When money allows I am thinking about the 70-300vr and maybe a kenko 1.4x teleconvertor to give an effective focal length of about 600mm.
 
Manual focus is not a problem if you get the hang of panning.
As others have said, pre focus on the point where you wish to shoot. Then follow the target until it reaches that spot and shoot. Using practices and qualifying sessions you should be able to get some practice before the racing.
If you find that you are shooting too early then find a marker such as a marshal box or tree etc which is a fraction ahead of your point and use that to tell you when to shoot and just keep adjusting the reference point until you find the correct one for you.

If you want to get close to the cars try the inside of the hairpin where you can get close and the cars are slower. You can also get some good shots of some of the drivers by zooming in to the drivers windows.
 
when i used to shoot motorbikes and hill climbs i used to focus on a spot where i would take the shot...then pan into it and fire the camera a bit before....
manual did just fine
 
Tight Fart said:
OMG how did they manage in the old days???
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By being better photographers than most people nowadays who pick up a modern 'do-everything-for-you-including-make-the-tea' DSLR and think that's all there is to it...

:lol:
 
mrcrow said:
when i used to shoot motorbikes and hill climbs i used to focus on a spot where i would take the shot...then pan into it and fire the camera a bit before....
manual did just fine
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^^ + 1.
Manual focus in the old days relied on pre-focus and hit the shutter a fraction before the vehicle got to tha point. Have a look at some of Don Morley's shots to see a perfect technique from yesteryear (on film, or slides).
A master at work.

Matt
 
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