Motorsport lens

Scud

Scud

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Martin
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Sorry if this is in the wrong section, im getting stumped with regards to a lens for motorsport. I currently have a Canon 55-250mm IS which i thought would do the job.

So my problem is either im not setting the camera/lens right or i can get a different lens.

Should this lens be good enough to take spot on pictures ?

Thanks
Martin
 
Yep, you need to post a piccy to let peeps have an idea where you are going wrong, if you are, and give some advice.

ps, it's lens not lens. :D
 
Scud said:
. I currently have a Canon 55-250mm IS which i thought would do the job.

So my problem is either im not setting the camera/lens right or i can get a different lens.
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What is the problem, why do you feel it's not up to standard.:shrug:
 
I do quite a bit of motorsport for work and I use a Canon EOS 400D with an EF-S 55-250mm lens.













The lens cost me £170ish and it's been good enough for me to have my shots published. Have you got any examples of your shots?
 
70-200 f/2.8 IS (for dark forests)

been using it for years, never not been able to fill the frame with it - can get closer than track racing though so depends what you shoot :/
 
I guess it all comes down to what you can afford. In an ideal world: prime, fast L glass. Lovely quality, and gives you the flexibility with lighting conditions and apertures.

I think the shots skyblueads represent a good portfolio of what you can expect to achieve with your lens. I think the first one, and the pic of the white BMW are pretty good considering the price of the lens - this is probably the best you can expect.
 
cokebottles said:
I guess it all comes down to what you can afford. In an ideal world: prime, fast L glass. Lovely quality, and gives you the flexibility with lighting conditions and apertures.

I think the shots skyblueads represent a good portfolio of what you can expect to achieve with your lens. I think the first one, and the pic of the white BMW are pretty good considering the price of the lens - this is probably the best you can expect.
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For the price of the lens I'm pretty pleased, I'd like something longer to be able to fill the shot (especially for BTCC etc-I'm not MSA accredited so can't get on the other side of the barriers!), but as you say it comes down to budget. An L-series is on my wish list, but it's a long way off!
 
The 70-200L-range is THE motorsport lens IMO. :)
 
IMO

-200 is often too short for motorsport. You can add a converter but...

-300 is a better option, especially if its fast enough to add a converter and the IQ is sustained - eg Sigma 120-300 f2.8

-400 should give enough range for almost anywhere

Then you see people at circuits with 300mm and 400mm primes (understandable) but also 500mm and 600mm primes and then sometimes with a TC as well...

And it gets worse from the public areas. Choose your circuit or event and choose your lens to suit.

However, at least there is the ability to crop with modern 10-15mp cameras and still end up with 6-8mp images which can be printed out at reasonable sizes.
 
If you're starting out or are working to a budget then the Canon 55-250IS or Sigma 70-300 APO are two good starting points.

If you've got a bit more cash, the 70-200 f4 L is one option or Sigmas 70-200 f2.8 EX is a similar price, similar quality and a full stop faster

If you've got more cash then you've got the choice of Canon 70-200 f2.8, Sigmas 100-300 f4 or Canon 100-400L. All have their pros and cons. Canon 300mm f4 IS L prime is around this price point as is the 400mm f5.6

If you want to spend more there is the Sigma 120-300 f2.8 EX or the Canon faster canon primes or the long f4 - f4.5 primes from Canon or Sigma.

I went from Sigma 70-300 DG Macro (£99 from Jessops when prices were sensible) to secondhand Sigma 100-300 f4 which I am using at the moment. I've got a Sigma 120-300 f2.8 at service at the moment (bought secondhand)
 
Its a very good motorsport lens, its what I use. Just a couple from mine;

IMG_7271.jpg


IMG_5982.jpg


Sure its not as fast as some of the L glass but set things right and you cant go wrong. Both of those were on full manual but using the shutter priority mode will get you similar results. 1st one was at 1/125 the 2nd about 1/4000. Taken with my 400D.

The IS is very handy!
 
I think its a case of not being able to fill the frame, i like to get in close to the subject and have strong colour in there .Everything i seem to shoot as at 250mm. I think it's a case of shutter speeds which is the mode i shoot in 99% of the time. Some examples...............



This one was shot through a fence and i have tried to play around with the contrast ( may of over done it )



This one is untouched, just converted to jpeg, seems alot duller.

 
if i was you i would save the money and just stick with the lens you have.
its got a good range, and is decent enough to get decent shots.

doing a bit of PP (some sharpening and saturation) will save you a fortune.
your mclaren shot looks decent enough if it wasnt for the fence.

283v.jpg
 
As has been said, your actual framing is ok, the tweaks are done in post processing especially from shooting RAW. Your exposures seem a bit high, you could speed up the shutter speed to sort that out (sometimes the 400D does overexpose)

Cropping, sharpening and a bit of saturation, maybe tweak the contrast and you're there, its not the lens thats the issue.

But, that said, with the 250 IS I find I have to prep for the shots as sometimes the IS takes half a second of so to kick in, so with Servo AF selected I half press the trigger button in anticipation just to make sure the IS has fully kicked in, then I fire away at will. This helps a lot especially when panning and you can usually get some pin sharp shots as both the IS and servo AF are working at full pelt.
 
andrewc said:
IMO

-200 is often too short for motorsport. You can add a converter but...

-300 is a better option, especially if its fast enough to add a converter and the IQ is sustained - eg Sigma 120-300 f2.8

-400 should give enough range for almost anywhere

Then you see people at circuits with 300mm and 400mm primes (understandable) but also 500mm and 600mm primes and then sometimes with a TC as well...

And it gets worse from the public areas. Choose your circuit or event and choose your lens to suit.

However, at least there is the ability to crop with modern 10-15mp cameras and still end up with 6-8mp images which can be printed out at reasonable sizes.
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Some wise words, but realistically it'll depend on the circuit and where you are shooting. Some circuits keep you miles from the track for where you can get good shots so a long lens is essential, others i.e. Prescott Hill Climb, you can get right next to the circuit in places, so I use my 24-105. A 70-200 is too long.

So really it depends on where you are shooting.
you
 
agreed, use my 24-70 @ 24 on hairpins, 80/90% of the frame is the car



andrewc said:
Whenever I've shot motorsports with an IS lens I've found IS more of a hindrance than a benefit. Try switching it off.
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doubt it - never turned mine off in 3 1/2 years, mode 1 or 2 is always on
 
buckas said:
agreed, use my 24-70 @ 24 on hairpins, 80/90% of the frame is the car

doubt it - never turned mine off in 3 1/2 years, mode 1 or 2 is always on
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I always turn mine off too.. I decided against the IS version of the 70-200mm as i didnt see the point i spending another £200 on something that doesnt make a difference other than flattening the battery quicker.
 
andrewc said:
Whenever I've shot motorsports with an IS lens I've found IS more of a hindrance than a benefit. Try switching it off.
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Eh? Strange advice!:thinking: I always use IS, thats what its designed for. The 55-250 (along with most Canon IS lenses) has panning detection built into the IS so its perfect for motorsport. I shoot all my motorsport handheld though.

Non IS is ok if you can use uber fast shutter speeds but IS can only help, I cant see the benefit of switching it off?
 
ive never turned my IS on but thats because i have a sigma 70-200 lol

to be honest ive never found myself wanting it either.

agree that 200 is too short for a lot of circuits. its great for rallys and hillclimbs and some club level circuits (combe and some areas of thruxton etc).

im currently on a hunt for something up to 300 or 400.
 
Interesting... I'd never consider a long lens without IS, maybe its my lazy technique???! :)

Seriously though, especially with really long lenses (or anything over 200 really) I'd say IS is essential for dynamic moving shots such as planes, motorsport etc.

...but I suppose it depends how good the IS actually is on each particular lens. I've no experience with Sigmas and Tamrons, but both Canon lenses I've used it on (the 55-250 and the 100-400L) both benifit, IMO, from IS as the IS is very good!
 
it may help if you say where you are going to be shooting, iv'e shot over 15 rallies this year with a maximum reach of 135mm (an a 1.6 crop sensor), widest being 15mm (sigma 15-30, sigma 24-135). i only shoot rallying (in motorsport terms that is) so i can (as good as) stand as close as i feel safe, therefore reach is not essential but it is very frustrating at times not having more reach.

Canon's 70-200 f/4 is menat to be as sharp as a very very sharp thing, and not bad money for the non IS version, £450-£500. 300 f/4 is about £950, then the 100-400 is probably the most versatile lens for motorsport, but from what iv'e read lacks clarity, contrast and IQ.
 
I do trackdays,mainly castle coombe..... thanks for the advice, guess i will keep trying.
 
odd jim said:
Eh? Strange advice!:thinking: I always use IS, thats what its designed for. The 55-250 (along with most Canon IS lenses) has panning detection built into the IS so its perfect for motorsport. I shoot all my motorsport handheld though.

Non IS is ok if you can use uber fast shutter speeds but IS can only help, I cant see the benefit of switching it off?
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i might be mistaken, but the panning IS is only in the horizontal plane. What if I want to pan in portrait mode, or add even a slight angle to my pan?
 
odd jim said:
Seriously though, especially with really long lenses (or anything over 200 really) I'd say IS is essential for dynamic moving shots such as planes, motorsport etc.
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which implies that if you dont have IS then you cant get a decent shot, which IMHO is nonsense.
 
200mm isn't really a long lens though and the 55-250 is a pretty lightweight lens (390g) compared to my Sigma 100-300 (1440g) or 120-300 f2.8 (2600g).

For a front 3/4 shot where you get away with a higher shutter speed, then camera shake shouldn't be an issue unless you are experiencing an earthquake at the same time.

For panning, I've found its very easy to confuse the IS on my 24-105L and so I switch it off for motorsport and back on again for other shots. Quite a number of other motorsport photographers who have IS lenses switch it off for a lot of shots.

As Gary suggests, not all panning is horizontal either and this could confuse a lens.
 
andrewc said:
For panning, I've found its very easy to confuse the IS on my 24-105L and so I switch it off for motorsport and back on again for other shots. Quite a number of other motorsport photographers who have IS lenses switch it off for a lot of shots.
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True I only use it when and if shooting very slow shutterspeeds in low light area's. Most sports shooters prefer to use a monopod with IS off. IMO much more stable and better for perfecting technique.
 
Gary said:
which implies that if you dont have IS then you cant get a decent shot, which IMHO is nonsense.
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I didnt mean to imply that - of course you can still get decent shots without IS, but, in my experience, I'll get less keepers.

As for panning at an angle, I've not tried that, but even if panning detection doesnt activate for portrait (cant see I'd need to do that though TBH!) or at a 45 degree angle, the IS still will activate, increasing the chance of a sharper shot.

At the end of the day its down to personal preference. If you're lucky enough to have a superfast lens and you can shoot well enough not to need IS and / or panning detection then I admire your ability. But what I'm trying to say in essence is that I have found IS to be beneficial to me in that I get a LOT more keepers due to the increased sharpness IS offers over a variety of shots, and I'd imagine that would be the same for most average 'togs.
 
rally-media said:
I have never owned a IS lens and don't own a monopod, does that make my pictures crap?
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No, as above, I never implied that, I'm talking from personal experience.

I note from your signature that you want an IS lens though (70-200 VR)!!

I was only offering advice to the OP about making sure his IS, if he had it selected, had activated in time for his shots on his 55-250 which I have used since it was first introduced, as he does not seem to be getting the best out of it. I wont apologise for the mis-interpretation of my posts but people seem to be taking them the wrong way!
 
Yeah the 70-200 VR was on the wish but since I bought the 80-200 it's no longer needed just haven't got round to altering signature.

My advice would be don't bother with an IS lens, can't see the point of spending the extra money. All you need to do is practice, even if that means standing by the side of a public road taking pictures of the traffic.
 
rally-media said:
Yeah the 70-200 VR was on the wish but since I bought the 80-200 it's no longer needed just haven't got round to altering signature.

My advice would be don't bother with an IS lens, can't see the point of spending the extra money. All you need to do is practice, even if that means standing by the side of a public road taking pictures of the traffic.
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Very true words (about practicing at least) - but he does have an IS lens! Hense my advice (aside from my own personal kit preferences) based on my experiences with the exact same kit.
 
I know what you mean Jim, i will give it a try without the IS or try cranking it up before hand.
 
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