Might like a Leica-like...

OK I think I need a yellow filter for the CL, which I'll be using with Tri-X. It's a 40.5mm thread, which limits it a bit. Tiffen offer a range of yellows and an orange for £20-£30 plus, and Heliopan do yellow as well I think for similar money, but most of the usual suspects (Hoya etc) don't seem to have yellows in that thread.

Last night I found a Hoya yellow 40.5mm on the evil bay for only £6 inc postage. I've used several Hoyas for other cameras quite happily, so that's on its way now, as is a Cordy Classic strap. I asked on their web site about the best strap and got a reply from the boss man within an hour or two. Pretty impressive, I thought.

I finished up the first film a couple of days ago, when it was a little less cold than the first day, and now I've managed to rewind the film (without losing the leader, yeah!) and load a new one. So that's most of the camera functions given a first run. Can't wait to see the results... but I'll have to!

The metering thing is a bit odd (the meter doesn't work unless you've wound on AND the wind lever is at standoff; the needle is sometimes a bit sticky, too). However, it might not be all bad, since it's making me think whether there's a picture there I really want, before the wind-on and metering starts. So that's good. I haven't really worked out how much needle movement represents a stop yet, either. Rangefinder focusing is taking a bit of getting used to. It's mostly not too bad when I'm close to focus, but if the camera's to my eye and focus is way out, I can't seem to converge on focus at all. Have to drop away and focus by the distance scale, then refine with the patch. It's only completely vanished on me the once so far. It's tough having no indication of depth of field, as well.

The thing I miss most compared with my MXs is the telltale window showing the aperture. Again, I guess you learn to recognise where you are in a tactile way with time.
 
I think the lenses should have focus tab in same place for each focusing a certain distance?
I heard a pro tog who uses 2 leicas prefocuses by feel like that
 
Thanks Paul, I think you're right. It's a completely different feel to focusing my SLRs: tiny focus ring next to the camera, tab etc, aperture further out, completely reversed. I'm only about an hour in, but I'll get there. I'm trying to resist the temptation to finish off the film in my MX... for the next 3 months plus! I hope by then I'll have focusing off tab. :rolleyes:
 
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Think I used the edge of my left fore finger, just above the fingernail, having that in the dip of the tab
 
i went through the exact same dilemma and ended up with an Voigtlander R4M, Canon P Rangefinder and I have two Rollei 35's. Still hankering for another Bessa though! :exit:
 
im pondering a leica or similer
what i really liked about the digital ones ive tried was the viewfinder being so clear, and the patch, the feel of the camera and lens
and the "look" of leica

prefer lever wind. ffordes m8's at 900ish are tempting too
 
not looked into it to much but the m8 seems better value?

They are about the same price if you shop around, for the price of a good M8 you can get the newer RD1X from Japan. I prefer the handling and pictures from the R-D1 although some say the lower ISO files are better from the M8. Personally I find the R-D1 more than good enough for my needs (see my flickr) and the viewfinder beats the M8 hands down. Horses for courses really but to the the M8 feels digital, the Epson feels like a film camera with an SD card in it!
 
M8? M8? I know about the M6, M7, M-P, not sure what these M8 thingies are for...:);):p
 
I know what you mean!
 
So, that's two rolls finished and sent off to Peak (haven't got my souping act together yet for non-tog reasons). Really looking forward to getting something back to scan.

I'm getting the hang of focusing much better, but I'm finding the metering a PITA. The CL meter is on a stick that drops down in front of the film plane, so you really are pretty much metering off the film, great when it works. Mine is proving a bit sticky (d'oh), and may have to be looked at. Happily I have a 1 year warranty, sadly that's in Edinburgh and I'm not.
 
its quite a narrow area, from what i remmber reading

I think at 90mm the area is the same as the focus patch, at 50mm or so, about twice the size of the patch.
 
I think at 90mm the area is the same as the focus patch, at 50mm or so, about twice the size of the patch.

That has to be rubbish, the focus patch in the viewfinder surely doesn't change size when the lens changes! I think I was misremembering something else...
 
Anyway, got my first two rolls back from Peak yesterday and started scanning today. This was the first shot. Perhaps not properly focused at infinity, but I'm pretty happy with it. About 2 degrees C and a strong wind, so I'm pleased I got anything!

One thing I have found is that I have to spend so long thinking about the various aspects of the shot, with the camera being so different, hard to get the metering to work etc, that I get a stiff neck. That was a surprise...



Leitz Minolta CL, Minolta 40mm f/2, Tri-X possibly shot at 400, as I hadn't worked out how to adjust the ISO to part stops.
 
i should be getting a lens or two for my cl in the post tomorrow and tuesday :)

metering wise im probably going to use my external meter where i can, but not sure yet
 
I've been wondering about a Jupiter 8 50mm lens plus a M39 adapter, but have read that you can't focus them properly (back focus?) on a Leica. Something bout needing to add shims onto the cams. Can anyone explain this? Is it still workable? I have seen some nice results from the combination on t'Internet that look tack sharp to me!
 
Anyway, got my first two rolls back from Peak yesterday and started scanning today. This was the first shot. Perhaps not properly focused at infinity, but I'm pretty happy with it. About 2 degrees C and a strong wind, so I'm pleased I got anything!

One thing I have found is that I have to spend so long thinking about the various aspects of the shot, with the camera being so different, hard to get the metering to work etc, that I get a stiff neck. That was a surprise...



Leitz Minolta CL, Minolta 40mm f/2, Tri-X possibly shot at 400, as I hadn't worked out how to adjust the ISO to part stops.

Sorry Chris,but,that is so grey,it is 50 shades of grey :0. Not good at all,no contrast for B&W and very soft. You will have to get used to the combo and the better performance will come.
 
Definitely agree with you on the soft aspect, but not sure I understand the greyness point? I just checked in Aperture, and the histogram touches both ends, there's even a bit of a narrow spike at the black end where I'd boosted the contrast a bit much. Maybe I'm not quite understanding your issue?

On the main point though, I do agree with you, definitely need to get more used to it.
 
Definitely agree with you on the soft aspect, but not sure I understand the greyness point? I just checked in Aperture, and the histogram touches both ends, there's even a bit of a narrow spike at the black end where I'd boosted the contrast a bit much. Maybe I'm not quite understanding your issue?

On the main point though, I do agree with you, definitely need to get more used to it.

I think Richard woke up grumpy this morning. The diagonal stripes of foliage, the track across the field, the promontory, the skyline and the clouds have plenty of local contrast. It doesn't deserve "not good at all", especially in a non-critique thread.
 
I think at 90mm the area is the same as the focus patch, at 50mm or so, about twice the size of the patch.
That has to be rubbish, the focus patch in the viewfinder surely doesn't change size when the lens changes! I think I was misremembering something else...

Apparently not rubbish, I found the bit in the manual that says that the 90mm and 50mm metering areas are as described above!
 
Three snags of my CL for me: the meter thingy can be a bit hard to get working (though I've learned that when it absolutely refuses to comedown, I need to check whether I've taken the lens cap off!), the shutter release is a bit stiff for my straight finger, which has resulted in stabbing at it a bit, hence some less than sharp shots.

And yesterday... I discovered it's possible to put the back on after loading a film and not properly close the latch. It looked fine, although there was clearly some looseness that I filed away to mention in my proposed review. Then yesterday I put the monopod on the bottom (to try to counteract the shutter release stabbing problem). I was walking up the road holding the camera via the monopod handle... when the camera body slipped right off the back, the latter still attached to the monopod, leaving the rest of the camera dangling from the strap! Needless to say there was quite a lot of Tri-X on display. :(

I eventually managed to get enough film back in the cassette to get the back on properly this time, and finish the rest of the film. I think I may only have lost about 8 shots, but I'll find out when I get it back from Peak!:eek:

(Darn it, the headbanger smilie seems to have disappeared :( )

Back again :banghead: thanks to Nick!
 
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:banghead:
 
mine had a soft shutter realease thing or whatever you call those little caps that screw into hutter release

i also messed a film up probably, either low battery or meter gone bad has ment ive really over exposed 24 shots or so :(
 
Maybe if I invested in one of those soft releases it would stop me dreaming of the Bessa R3A in the classifieds? (I thought starting an OCOLOF was supposed to inoculate me against GAS!)
 
@ChrisR There is no such thing as GAS prevention..
 
yep :x
ive got a bunch of stuff, crazy really
rb67
m42
sony alpha
sigma dp
rangefinder (only 2 lenses)
few random cameras

i hardly ever look at my pics. :/
 
I thought a brief report here might be in order. As noted above, I bought a Leitz Minolta CL with a M-Rokkor 40mm f/2 lens, for my OCOLOF challenge (see here, now moved from Photos from Film to Personal Projects and Challenges... the first few months pics taken with the CL, all with the M-Rokkor). A few months later, I gave in to a bit of GAS and got a Voigtlander Bessa R3A off this forum. and most of the last part of the OCLOF was shot with that. The comparison was interesting.

The Bessa is a very nice camera to use, particularly with the grip which came with my model. Annoyingly, the grip doesn't have a tripod socket, so if you want to use your tripod or monopod, you have to take the grip off; in my case, one end of the strap was attached to the grip, so with the grip off it was very unwieldy. I've since bought a Peak Design cuff and leash set, which ought to work quite well, but have not fitted it yet. With the grip off, I did move the strap onto the Bessa's body; both the lugs are at the front, which seemed to me to put the camera at an odd orientation (the camera as a whole is a little more difficult for me to use without the grip).

As noted above, the CL's metering is slightly awkward, in that you have to wind the film on, leave the wind-on lever at stand-off position, and hold the camera in the landscape orientation (and some times give it a little knock with the fingers) before the metering kicks in. IIRC the Bessa also needs to be wound on before the metering works, but thereafter you can access it with a half press of the shutter. The CL metering is an analogue needle to the right of the OVF; if under-exposed the needle is above the centre, if over-exposed the needle is below, thoroughly counterintuitive! The Bessa's meter lights up one (or more) of the row of red shutter speed indicators along the bottom of the OVF. If in manual mode, the selected shutter speed and the "correct" shutter speed (as metered) are both indicated, one of them flashing (and I can't remember which).

I thought the Bessa's approach would be preferable, but after coming back to the CL, I think the analogue approach gives me a better idea of how far off the metered exposure I am, and lets me make better judgements. Somehow the difference between 500 and 1000 seems more significant than the equivalent amount of movement of the CL's needle, so the Bessa seems to be pushing me to use its metering, while the CL leaves it more up to me. Daft, I know, but that's the feeling I have.

Obviously the Bessa has the huge advantage of having aperture priority as well as manual, while the CL is manual only. The Bessa also uses LR44 batteries while the CL uses the more expensive Wein cells.

The Bessa's rangefinder became a little mis-aligned, and it's off having that fixed at the moment.

Yesterday, for the first time since January, I used my Pentax MX; I fitted it with the Pentax-M 35mm f/2 lens and a Hoya yellow filter, and took several shots on both the CL and the MX. First thing to notice is, 35mm is a LOT wider than 40mm! I had not expected there to be so much difference (I did try to compensate a bit by moving forward with the MX). I will be interested to see the shots when both films are finished and processed. I set the same shutter speed on both cameras, and (as far as I can tell) the same ISO (as noted above the CL is very unclear for intermediate ISO settings), and there was a fairly consistent one stop difference in metering between the two cameras; I don't know if this was due to the metering method, though I did my best to meter for darker areas in both cases. I did like my old friend the MX!

At the moment, I'm feeling this was an interesting and worthwhile experiment, but that the rangefinder experience isn't really for me, so I'm expecting to put both cameras on the classifieds before too long.
 
Is the CL metering referencing your shutter speed? That is, the needle is below the line because the shutter speed is too slow (overexposed) so you need to increase the shutter speed to correct it.

Also, sounds a bit strange that the camera has to be in landscape and give it a knock to get the metering to kick in. Are you sure it hasn't had a knock at some time which has loosened something inside?
 
Is the CL metering referencing your shutter speed? That is, the needle is below the line because the shutter speed is too slow (overexposed) so you need to increase the shutter speed to correct it.

That might be a good way to think of it!

Also, sounds a bit strange that the camera has to be in landscape and give it a knock to get the metering to kick in. Are you sure it hasn't had a knock at some time which has loosened something inside?

No, apparently the meter is on a stick or wand which moves in front of the film plane, and is then moved out of the way before the shot is taken. So I guess this is all a way to protect this potentially fragile element of the camera! It does mean spot metering, and metering off the film, so that's good...
 
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