Metering modes ( no photo)

pragmatist

pragmatist

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Matty
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What metering modes do you use for your bird photography in general Bearing in mind how quickly we sometimes have to react. I have been using good old matrix (Evaluative) but would like to start experimenting with maybe centre weighted especially with tight crops. Any thoughts?
 
I tend to use spot metering. But it has got me thinking. I use manual mode so what is the metering doing, if anything? Am I way off the point here? Is this only used when you are in Tv or Av mode to set the other parameter you have asked the camera to sort out?

Sits back and waits to be told I'm missing the point!!
 
I use AV and Evaluative metering most of the time. I find by far the most important consideration with birds is getting quick and accurate focus on a fleeting or moving target. It produces good results most of the time and where it's a bit off it's well within the scope of RAW processing to adjust.

If the bird is strongly back lit or the light is very contrasty, then I'd probably switch to spot metering, dial in some exposre compensation, or sometimes switch to manual.

You need to be careful with spot metering - it usually works well for mid toned birds - Sparrows etc, but with a Magpie the problem is obvious, you'll get gross over or under exposure depnding whether you spot meter on a white bit or a black bit.
 
CumbrianCanary said:
I tend to use spot metering. But it has got me thinking. I use manual mode so what is the metering doing, if anything? Am I way off the point here? Is this only used when you are in Tv or Av mode to set the other parameter you have asked the camera to sort out?

Sits back and waits to be told I'm missing the point!!
Click to expand...

Regardless of what mode you'e using, including Manual, spot metering works by just metering from that small circular spot in the centre of your screen. If you're using Manual mode and always balancing the exposure scale in the viewfinder in the centre without consideration for the subject, then you might as well be shooting in AV or TV mode. If you use Manual mode and balance the exposure scale in the centre you're simply accepting the cameras recommendation for exposure which would be no different in AV or TV.
 
Interesting. It seems evaluative and spot to be the main 2 players but i agree the most important aspect is concentrating on getting the focusing spot on. I have been told to under expose by a third to half a stop most of the time as it's easier to bring back the highlights and retain more detail than doing it the opposite way. :thinking:
 
I use spot metering 90% of the time, and matrix the other 10%, I do not think I have ever used centre weighted / averaged, it is a throw back to the old days.

I am always in manual mode, most of the settings are a combination of intuition and luck, predominately luck, I certainly do not think about it too much, as CT said quick accurate focus is the main concern.

The thing is to use what suits you, and practice with it, see what tweaking settings does to your photos, it costs nothing and you will get a better idea of what to do in that one off shot moment, when it arrives.
 
pragmatist said:
Interesting. It seems evaluative and spot to be the main 2 players but i agree the most important aspect is concentrating on getting the focusing spot on. I have been told to under expose by a third to half a stop most of the time as it's easier to bring back the highlights and retain more detail than doing it the opposite way. :thinking:
Click to expand...

Under exposure results in loss of contrast, poor tone separation and flat colours. You should always aim for optimum exposure and strive to get that right, for bright, colourful pictures. Pulling a dark image back up in post processing will not give as good a result.

Sure, you have to be wary about blowing the highlights because they are harder to recover, but if you keep an eye on the LCD image, enable blinkies to warn of overexposure, and check the histogram, you should not get into trouble. If you are worried about this, shooting Raw gives a bit more wriggle-room if you get caught out, but deliberately under exposing all the time produces dull, drab images.

There is another theory that says deliberate over exposure is better, on those occasions where you have a little headroom at the highlight end. This is true providing you are prepared to do a little work in post processing (google 'expose to the right' of the histogram) but you have to be careful doing this.

To answer the OP, if you need to be fast, evaluative/matrix metering is best and TBH even when you've got plenty of time it is usually hard to beat except in unusual cirumstances.
 
spot metering...on the bit i want exposed properly
if not spot meter and use the clicker for +/- to get the desired exposure after refocussing
thats +2.0 or -2.0 stops

a bit long winded but i know if the bird moves i am still exposed for the correct area

unless the damn light changes
 
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